Satin and sateen weaves

Satin and sateen weaves

1. Fabric Structure and Design: Sateen/Satin Weaves By Md Vaseem Chavhan Assistant Professor VIGNAN University [email protected]

2. Sateen/Satin Weave In pure sateen and satin weaves the surface of the cloth consists almost entirely of weft or warp float, as in the repeat of weave each thread of one series passes over all but one thread of the other series.

3. Concept : The characteristic of the sateen/satin weave is that they have a smoothness and lustrous fabric surface. Sateen weaves have a weft effect and satin weaves have a warp effect

4. Parameters : R ≥5 and R ≠ 6 1 ﹤ S ﹤(R-1) R and S must be expressed by prime numbers R is Repeat and S is Shift The sateen weave is denoted by a fraction. But the meaning is different from that of twill. The numerator of this fraction is equal to the repeat of weave. The denominator is equal to the shift ( S y ) of overlaps.

5. Examples: A ―Sateen 5/3 B ― sateen 7/3 And they are also called 5 ends(5 shafts) sateen and 7 ends (7 shafts) sateen. Figures A, B represent sateen 5/3 and 7/3.

6. Weave drawn: Here is an example of 5/3 satin ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ 1. Drawing the outline according to the repeat, and giving the number of the threads. 2. Drawing the first end or pick. (Satin for first end, sateen for first pick). 3. Drawing the other ends or picks according to the shift 4. Weaving plan - Straight draft

7. Possible weaves for given repeat There should not be common factor between R and S. For example for R=10 possible S are 3 and 7 out of 2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 as shown in figure

8. Applications: satin-back gabardine, doeskin cloth, satin-back crepe, satin drill, light weight linings, slippers, bridal gowns

9. Development of Sateen and satin

10. Simple development In simple derivatives the new design is built up by using original satin or sateen as the base and subtracting or adding marks as required, in the same relative position to each base mark . By adding warp or weft float

11. By adding design

12. Addition of mark in Irregular manner

13. Extension of sateen weaves Horizontal or vertical extension

14. Both way Horizontal and vertical extension

15. Adding marks symmetrically with extension

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