Parts of Sewing Machine Dr Radha Kashyap Professor & Head Department of F ashion & Textiles IIS( deemed to be University), Jaipur
SEWING MACHINE A sewing machine is used to stitch the fabric and other pliable materials together with threads. Types of Sewing machines: Hand operated Sewing Machine Treadle Sewing machine Electric sewing machine
Categories of sewing machines Domestic sewing machine Domestic sewing machines are designed for one person to sew individual dress while using a single stitch type . These usually work on lightweight fabrics or work pieces. These machines run on significantly smaller motors compared to that of the industrial sewing machines Industrial sewing machine Industrial sewing machines are larger, faster, more complex, and more varied in their size, cost, appearance, and task . These are heavy-duty machines that work thousands of stitches per minute. An industrial machine is well equipped with a clutch and large servo motor.
PARTS OF HAND OPERATED SEWING MACHINE
PARTS OF HAND OPERATED SEWING MACHINE Balance wheel Stitch regulator Needle Feed dogs Presser foot presser filter Spool thread Thread Take Up Reverse Label Arm Bed
Arm : The horizontal upper part of the head which has the mechanism for handling upper thread and driving the needle . Bed: Bed of machine is the base of the machine on which all the attachments shuttle, feed and lower thread handling mechanism are fixed. Arm Bed
Back Stitch lever : A lever located at the lower right hand side of the machine. Its function is to form the stitches in reverse direction Balance wheel: It controls the operation of the machine. It is located on the right side of the machine. It is driven by hand or belt in the industrial machine. It controls the movement of the needle bar and drives the machine
Bobbin: A small metal spool that holds the lower thread supply. Bobbin case: Bobbin case holds the bobbin. It fits into place either below the feed or to its left. This moves into position to catch the top thread and form the stitch as the needle is lowered into the bobbin chamber. Bobbin winder: A simple mechanism used for winding thread on the bobbin. It is located at the right hand side near the wheel.
Feed dog: A small oblong, metal device with teeth which carries the material along as it is stitched. It helps to move the cloth forward while sewing. When the machine is in motion the feed moves upwards, thus advancing the material as each stitch is made.
Head : Complete sewing machine without cabinet or stand
Needle bar: This is a steel rod to hold the needle at one end with the help of a clamp. Its main function is to give motion to the needle. Needle plate or Throat plate: A semi-circular disc with a hole to allow the needle to pass through it.
Presser foot: It is a detachable device for holding the material in place on the feed while stitching. T he presser bar to hold the cloth firmly in position when lowered. This device is not used when attachments such as tucker, ruffler or binders are used. Presser foot lifter: A lever attached to the presser bar for raising and lowering the presser foot. It must always be lifted to take out the material from the machine.
Shuttle: A device that carries the needle thread around the bobbin and forms the lock on lock stitch Slide Plate : A rectangular plate, which facilitates the removal of the bobbin case without lifting the machine.
Spool pin: It is fitted on the top of the arm to hold the reel. Stitch regulator: This controls the length of the stitch. The length of the stitches have to be regulated according to the type of the cloth. This is done wit help of regulating screw. Some regulators can stitch in reverse.
Take up lever: It is lever fitted to the body of the arm with a small hole through which the thread passes. Its up and down motion feeds the thread to the needle and tightens the loop formed by the shuttle and loosening the top thread to complete the stitch. As the lever moves down it releases the thread to interlock with the bobbin thread to form a firm stitch. Thread Cutter: It is a blade fastened to the side of pressure foot bar. It is more convenient to use this cutter than scissors.
Thread guide: It is a small hole made of spring wire through which thread runs directly to needle. Tension disc: The two concave discs put together with the convex sides facing each other, compose the tension disc. The thread passes between the two. The tension of the thread is adjusted by a spring and nut which increases or decreases pressure.
Throat Plate : This is a semi circular disc with a highly polished surface and a hole to allow the needle to pass through. The fundamental purpose is to provide a levelled surface for the cloth and to prevent dust from entering the inner mechanism of the sewing machine.
REFRENCES: Garment Construction, Text book of Class XI, CBSE https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com