Sewing threads

Industrial sewing threads

1. SPME-I Assignment on Sewing Threads Submitted to : Mr. Amit Phogat Submitted by : Bittu Singh Radhe Kumar Shubham Singh

2. Sewing Thread Special yarn- engineered and designed to pass through a sewing machine rapidly. F orm efficient stitches without breaking or becoming distorted during the useful life of the product.   B asic function- to deliver aesthetics and performance in stitches and seams .

3. Factors Affecting Functions Of A Sewing Thread

4. Thread Classification Classified in different ways in which some common classifications are:

5. C lassification Based on Substrate

6. Classification Based on Construction

7. Classification based on thread finish Finishes are given to a thread for two purposes:

8. Applications of Sewing Threads In Apparel, Leather & Tea industries For personnel in Fire-fighting, Defence & Police Hot metal industry In hospital for surgery Rain-wear Automobiles – air bag, seat cover, spare wheel cover Bedding & mattress – covers, quilts Shoes Sports – Leather balls, Hang gliders, Fishing lines, Racket cover

9. Thread Selection There is no perfect thread for all applications, however there is a perfect thread for a specific application . The major selection criteria include:

10. Sewability The ability to be sewn or stitched. Type of threads to be used in different perspectives : Apparel - Core , Spun, Textured Automatic Multi-directional Lockstitch - CW Core or PW Core Buttonsew , Buttonhole- Corespun or Spun Overedge , Coverstitch - Spun or Textured Excessive Needle Heat- Cotton or CW Core Excessive Seam Puckering- Perma Core Ultimate – Fine Tex Sizes; CW Core or PW Core for heavier Tex Sizes Needle Cutting on Knits- Small as Possible, Tex Sizes Heavy Non-Apparel- Multifilament, Monocord

11. Seam Performance Chemical Resistance- Polyester , Polypropylene, PTFE Abrasion Resistance- Nylon UV Resistance- Polyester , Polypropylene, PTFE Long-term Heat Resistance- Meta- Aramid Short-term Heat Resistance- Cotton or Para- Aramid Stone Wash Resistance- Polyester Minimize Cut-Stitch- CW Core or PW Core Seam Elasticity- PW Core, Spun Poly, Textured

12. Seam Appearance High Sheen Appearance- Rayon , Tri- lobal Polyester, Metallic Low Sheen Appearance- Corespun & Spun 100% Cotton Garment Overdye - Cotton & Lyocel Color Fastness- Solution dyed Polyester, Polyester, Vat dyed Cotton Bold Size for Contrast Stitching- Large Tex Size Seam Coverage- Textured

13. Thread Numbering Systems to indicate thread size Metric count – synthetic, spun or core-spun threads English count – cotton thread Decitex or Denier – filament threads Fixed weight system Fixed length system Unit weight is fixed and length is measured. Unit length is fixed and weight is measured. English count(Ne) = number of hanks of 840 yards per pound Metric count(Nm) = number of hanks of 1000 metres per kg Denier – weight in grams of 9000 metres Tex – weight in grams of 1000 metres Decitex – weight in grams of 10000 metres Yarn becomes finer as count number increases Yarn becomes coarser/heavier as count number increases

14. Thread Numbering Ticket numbering – commercial numbering system - manufacturer’s reference number for the size of a given thread Systems used – Metric, Cotton & Denier Same ticket number for different threads doesn’t indicates the same type of thread – Ticket 40 Cotton & Ticket 40 Core-spun are different Higher ticket number – finer thread Lower ticket number – thicker thread Calculation : Divide 1000 by the Tex number, then multiply by 3

15. Thread Numbering : Example Tex dTex X ply (when 2-ply) dTex X ply (when 3-ply) Total Decitex ( dTex ) Ticket No. Calculation for ticket No. 40 200 X 2 133 X 3 dTex X 400 75 { (1000/40) * 3 } 60 300 X 2 200 X 3 dTex X 600 50 { (1000/60) * 3 } 80 400 X 2 267 x 3 dTex X 800 38 { (1000/80) * 3 } 100 500 X 2 333 X 3 dTex X 1000 30 { (1000/100) * 3 }

16. Reference All about Sewing Threads. Retrieved from : http://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/information-hub/apparel-expertise/sewing-threads Thread Science – Choosing The Right Thread. Retrieved from : http://www.amefird.com/technical-tools/thread-education/thread-science/ Thread Selection Logic. Retrieved from : http://www.amefird.com/technical-tools/thread-education/thread-logic/ Thread Numbering. Retrieved from : http://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/information-hub/apparel-expertise/thread-numbering Carr H. & Latham B. Fourth Edition. Pages 109 to 137. Technology of Clothing Manufacture.