Shrinkage Control

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1. SHRINKAGE
CONTROL
Prajwal Mohanta Shreya Anand Tanya Gupta

2. INTRODUCTION
A reduction in the length or width of a
fibre, yarn or fabric is known as
Shrinkage.

If fabric shrink after they have been
made into garments or household items,
they may decrease in size to such an
extent that the item is no longer
serviceable. (Collier & Tortora, 2001)

3. WHY SHRINKAGE OCCURS?
Fibres are spun into yarn and even under
weaving process, they are under constant
tension. In this case, their physical state
changes but it doesn’t affect permanently.
Fibres tend to revert in their physical
conditions that leads to shrinkage. (Corbman)

4. FACTORS CONTROLLING SHRINKAGE

Even tension of
threads during
sewing process.
Fabric Construction.

Type of Fabric
Finishing.
Stability and nature
of the Fibers.

5. When the fabric (initially made under tension)
is wet in a tensionless condition, this kind of
shrinkage occurs. (Pizzuto, 2005)

Relaxation Shrinkage
This is caused by the action of heat generally
occurs in synthetic fibers or fabrics. (Pizzuto, 2005)


Thermal Shrinkage
Even if the fabric is preshrunk in finishing, a
small amount of shrinkage remains, known as
Residual Shrinkage. (Pizzuto, 2005)


Residual Shrinkage
This type of shrinkage continues and the
fabric shrinks a bit more with each laundering.
(Pizzuto, 2005)

Progressive Shrinkage
TYPES OF SHRINKAGE
1 2
3
4

6. GENERAL METHODS OF REDUCING SHRINKAGE (PART-1)
The wool is shrunk using two perforated
cylinders which steam the fabric as it is
rolled on one cylinder and rewound on
the other. (Corbman)

CYLINDER METHOD CHLORINATION METHOD
For woolen fabrics. This is a low cost method
but has many disadvantages like loss of
strength and harsh hand feel. (Corbman)

By adding thermo-setting resin,
shrinkage can be controlled to a
greater extent. (Pizzuto, 2005)

RESIN TREATMENT

This is one of the best process to reduce
shrinkage. In this, the woolen fabric is
treated with potassium permanganate,
nearly saturated with common salt.
(Pizzuto, 2005)

CHEMICAL TREATMENT

7. GENERAL METHODS OF REDUCING SHRINKAGE (PART-2)
For woven fabrics of cotton, high wet
modulus rayon, linen and tubular knit
cotton fabrics. (Pizzuto, 2005)


COMPRESSIVE SHRINKAGE

HEAT SETTING
For fabrics made from thermoplastic
fibers, like nylon, polyester, acrylic. (Pizzuto,
2005)


For fabrics made from wool . This is a
relaxation shrinkage method. London
shrunk, Cold water shrunk and open
steam sponged are the three methods of
sponging. (Pizzuto, 2005)

SPONGING
Applications of resins for wool shrinkage
control have been practiced for some
time, using many different formulas,
none of which has proved successful.
(Lewin & Sello)

SP. RESIN TREATMENT

8. METHODS DEVELOPED BY DIFFERENT COMPANIES

Compressive Shrinkage method
developed for woven cotton.
(Corbman)


SANFORIZED FINISH
Developed for knitted fabrics. Fabric
dampened, stretched and dried in
tension less environment. (Corbman)

REDMAMIZED

Developed by F.R. Redman
Company.
Developed for woollen fabrics. Here fabric is
treated by diamine and diacyl chloride and
further polymerization take place. (Corbman)

WURLAN PROCESS

Developed by Western Regional Research
Laboratory of US.

Developed by Cluett, Peabody & Co.

9. METHODS DEVELOPED BY DIFFERENT COMPANIES

Mechanical Shrinkage method
developed for cotton fabric. Here
fabric is washed till desired
shrinkage. (Corbman)


RIGMEL

For cotton knitted goods. It guarantees
less 1% of the shrinkage. Treated in
special machine and shrunk by
overfeeding. (Corbman)

PAK- NIT

Developed by Compax Corp.
It is cold water process of
preshrinking wool fabrics. (Corbman)

LONDON SHRINKING

Developed by team in London.
Developed by Bradford Dyeing Association.

10. SHRINKAGE TESTING

11. The testing sample is spread on the table with a square shaped glass template,
having six marks on them with a distance of 35 cm between two marks. The
sample is marked with the marker and then washed at 60° C for 90 minutes and
then dried.
To find the Accurate Shrinkage or Stretch, measure the three points on the Warp
side and Weft side respectively and evaluate the mean value of warp wise and
weft wise readings. (Shrinkage Testing Method, n.d.)
TEST PROCEDURE
Formula: Shrinkage % = {(length of fabric before wash)-
(length of fabric after wash)}/(length of fabric after
wash)*100

12. LAUNDEROMETER
Launderometer is a machine that is used to conduct
washing test in testing laboratories in which similar
machines are used to determine the shrinkage
happening. The distance is measured and marked on
the unwashed sample of the fabric with the indelible
ink. These samples are then washed in the boiling
water, dried and pressed. Any change in the
measurement of the marked sample is referred to as
the amount of shrinkage. (Corbman)

13. SANFORIZING PROCESS

14. It is a mechanical finishing process of treating textile fabrics to
prevent the alteration of warp and weft. This is also as Anti-
Shrinkage Finishing Process. It is the treatment mainly used for
natural or chemical fibres. This method is patented by Sanford
Lockwood Cluett (1874-1968) in the year 1930. (Corbman)
INTRODUCTION TO SANFORIZING

15. PRINCIPLE OF SANFORIZING PROCESS
•Determination of the potential wash
shrinkage is done prior to shrinking, and
accordingly, the compressive shrinkage
machine can be adjusted.
•Based on the principle that when an elastic felt
blanket is passed around a metal roller, its outer
surface is extended and the inner surface is
contracted.
•The greater the pressure applied, the bigger
is the shrinking afterwards.
•The fabric is fed into the sanforizing machine
where it is treated with water or steam to
promote shrinkage and then pressed against
the rubber band to relax the fibres.
•The cloth is continually fed into the
sanforizing machine and the process of
shrinking continues.
•This process includes the stretching and
manipulation of fabric before it is washed.
(Collier & Tortora, 2001)

16. PROCESS OF SANFORIZING
Normal Shrinkage is
determined by
subjecting the test
sample to ordinary test
using General Wash Test.
Compressive Shrinkage
Machine is set to shrink the
fabric to exact dimensions
as determined by the Wash
Test.
Width is adjusted by
stretching action in which
the fabric is gripped by the
means of selvedges.
Fabric is dampened with pure
and live water to soften the
process for the adjustment of
length and width.
Careful measurement of length
and width are taken to check
the amount of shrink in the
dimensions.

1
2 3 4
5
(Corbman)

17. Fabric is held under
rubber blanket which is
controlled under
tension.
Fabric is heated by heating
rolls and surface finishes are
restored.
Wash test is conducted
again to check that the
shrinkage doesn’t exceed
1%.
This rubber blanket is present in
an assembly along with
cylindrical rollers and here,
shrinkage of fabric takes place.
6 7 8
9
CONTINUED…
(Corbman)

18. 1 2 3 4
Fabric gone through
Shrinkage Control
Process suffer
minimal shrinkage.
Pre shrunken fabric is
highly desirable for
the customers.
Pre shrunken fabric’s
construction
becomes denser,
which improves its
performance
Mostly, pre shrunken
fabric will have
minimal shrinkage
during the first wash
and will ultimately
stop shrinking after
the third wash.
ADVANTAGES OF SHRINKAGE CONTROL PROCESS

19. 1 2 3 4
Quality of fabric is
affected.
Hand/Feel of the
fabric varies.
Durability of the
fabric is affected.
Strength of the fabric
is reduced.
DISADVANTAGES OF SHRINKAGE CONTROL PROCESS

20. VIDEOS
AUTOMATIC SHRINKAGE TESTER TEXTILE SHRINKAGE

21. Bibliography
•Collier, B. J., & Tortora, P. G. (2001). Understanding Textiles (Vol. 6th Edition). Dave Garza. Retrieved January
27, 2018
•Corbman, B. P. (n.d.). Textiles fibre to fabrics (Vol. 6th Edition). Mcgraw Hills Intl. Publications. Retrieved
January 27, 2018
•Lewin, M., & Sello, S. B. (n.d.). Chemical Processing of fibres and fabrics (Vol. 2). New York: Mercel Dekker.
Retrieved January 27, 2018
•Pizzuto, J. (2005). Fabric Science. India. Retrieved January 27, 2018
•Shrinkage Testing Method. (n.d.). Retrieved January 27, 2018, from Textile Learner: www.textilelearner.com

22. THANK YOU