Slub yarn

Slub Yarn Explanation

1. MİTHAT ÖZTEKİN
ELECT. ELECTR ENG.
COTTON EXPERT ( MS )
Welcome to the World of FANCY YARN by AMSLER TEX

2. Fancy Yarn
Single
2 Component
3
Com
Po
nent
•Fancy yarn is related to people's imagination and offers a wide variety.
•Spiral Yarn
•Tuberous Yarn
•Gimp Yarn
•Ratine iplikler
•Buklet Yarn
•Loop yarn
•Twisted Yarn
•Nope Yarn
* In the form of the yarn, the color, brightness, raw materials quality etc.,
showing the characteristics feature, that the aesthetics of a particular fabric with
fabric finish are called Fancy yarn
•Flok Yarn
•Jaspe iplikler
•Melange Yarn
Muline Yarn
•Vigure Yarn
Eksantrik Yarn
•Frize Yarn
•Metalic Yarn
Knitting yarn•Core Yarn
•Cyro Yarn
•injection Yarn
•Slub Yarn
•Short slub Yarn
Multi Count Yarn
•Multi Twist Yarn
Gipe Yarn
•Chenille Yarn
•Negative Slub Yarn
WHAT IS FANCY YARN?
•Dual Core Yarn
•Rigit Yarn

3. Slub
•Asingle layer structure of the flat yarn is created with Program control by
changes in thickness and length, ‘’Slub –Flamme Yarn’’ is called.
WHAT IS SLUB YARN?

4. AMSLER Fancy Yarn Devices
SDE–Ground Slub System MC–MultiCountYarn System
MT/ TC–MultiTwist Yarn System COREXXX–Core Yarn System

5. XSS–Extreme Short Slub
E_Profi–Slub and Fabric Simulation
Program
HPC –High performance cooling
OE System
3C–Injection System

6. T 400Fiber Cyro Yarn
…….We have a solution for Fancy Yarn Productions.
NULU–New Look OE Yarn
mDraft–Multi Drfat CORE system

7. THE WORKING PRINCIBLE OF THE SYSTEM
AIM OF THE SYSTEM IS TO CONTROL THE SPEEDS OF DRAFT AND TWIST ROLLERS
IT MEANS THAT, THE SPEED OF DRAFT AND TWIST ROLLERS ARE INCREASED BY EXTRA AMSLER
MOTORS (BACK, MIDDLE, FRONT ROLLERS )
SO THAT, THERE IS A MECHANICAL MODIFICATION ON MACHINE.
THE MACHINE HAS DRIVED WITH 2 SIDE ( HEAD –SUCTION ) FOR DRAFT
IF THE RING SPINING MACHINE IS LONG, THE MACHINE HAS 3 DRIVE ( HEAD,MIDDLE,SYN.)
FOR O.E MACHINE, THE SPEED OF FEEDING ROLLERS ARE CONTROLLED BY EXTRA AMSLER MOTORS
DRIVE OF TWIST AND DRAFT BY MOTORS
DRIVE OF FEEDING ROLLERS BY MOTOR

8. Working principle for ground slubs on ringspin frame
Drafting system
Feed
rollers
Motor/gearing-diagram
Motor
Motor
Motor
Spindles
Motor
Feed rollers
* Speed of Rollers are controlled by Motor(Accelerated)
* Drive The Twist and Draft with additional Gearbox
Front
Roller

9. Working principle for ground slubs on open-end
* FeedRollers are controlled by Motor(Accelerated)
Feed Roller
STG Control Box

10. TYPES OF YARN
WHICH KIND OF FANCY YARN CAN WE PRODUCE WITH AMSLER DEVICE ?
•GROUND SLUB YARN ( GF )
•MULTI COUNT YARN ( MC)
•MUTI TWIST YARN ( TC )
•EXTREME SHORT SLUB YARN (XS-S)
•NEGATIVE SLUB

11. Basic information on AMSLER SDE -MC –TC System
•Long slub is not a MC yarn type
•Twist characteristic is different on
thick place which is called slub
when comparing with Normal yarn
( base yarn )
•ideal base and thick length of
MC,TC yarn should be min. 200
cm. due to variable twist
•MC and TC yarn have variable
twist on the yarn.

12. GF / GROUND FLAMME –GS / BASIC SLUB
GROUND FLAMME and BASIC SLUB are SAME MEANING.
BASİC SLUB YARN ;
* Min. SLUB LENGTH SHOULD BE FİBER LENGTH ( For Example ; 3 cm for Cotton )
* Max. SLUB LENGTH SHOULD BE EQUAL TO TWIST ZONE ( Depend on slub Thickness )
* TWIST IS CONSTANT ON THE YARN
* 180 SLUB / MIN IS POSSIBLE ON THE SYSTEM
* Max.THICKNESS IS 4.8 THICK THEN BASE THICKNESS ( FD Table )
RING FRAME ;
MINIMUN SLUB LENGTH = FIBER LENGTH + % 10FIBER LENGTH
O.E. SPINING ;
MINIMUN SLUB LENGTH = ROTOR DIAMETER

13. VariousSLUB
Slub Thickness are
look like ladder
( increasing and
decreasing step by
step )
Slub Thickness and Slub Legthare constant
Slub Thickness is Constant
Slub Length is variable

14. MC / MULTI COUNT
MULTI COUNT YARN ;
* YARN COUNT ( Ne ) AND TWIST ARE VARIABLE ON THE YARN
* DRAFT AND TWIST SYSTEM ARE CONTROLED BY AMSLER MOTORS.
* MİNUMUM THICKNESS LENGTH = LEGTH OF THE TWIST ZONE.
* Max. THICKNESS IS 2.2THICK THEN BASE THICKNESS
TC / MULTI TWIST
MULTI TWIST YARN ;
* YARN COUNT ( Ne ) IS CONSTANT AND TWIST IS VARIABLE THE YARN
* DRAFT AND TWIST SYSTEM ARE CONTROLED BY AMSLER MOTORS.
* * MİNUMUM THICKNESS LENGTH = LEGTH OF THE TWIST ZONE.
* Max. THICKNESS IS 1.5THICK THEN BASE THICKNESS

15. SLUB YARN DESIGN
1 -FROM YARN SAMPLE
* Using USTER Mass Diagram
* To Measure ( Slub Length and thickness )
* To Weigth ( Cut Slub Length and Cut Normal Yarn length )
2 -FROM FABRIC SAMPLE
3 -ON THE PHONE ( Min. –Max. Values, Thickness etc. )
4 -FROM CODE ( Amsler EP code or Other slub system code )

16. 3-methodes of effect yarn programming, resulting in fixed chart
Fabric copy
Programm code
chart: EPX
Yarn scanning
PC created codes
fromWinPK II
Transformation of thefull
effectyarn in digital data
for length, thicknessand
distancesbetween effects
for adefinedpattern,called
programmREPORT.
No un-defined randomizer.
Development
100%
repeating
REPORT
Codes created by
AMSLER Yarn scanner
1 or2 3or
Up to 4000 fix codes,
each access-able
300
7 8
90 0
155
==>
AMSLER Principle of programming
Codes created by
scanning of single yarn

17. DECIMAL CODE / Normal Slub
BASE YARN LEGTH , SLUB LENGTH , SLUB THICKNESS DESIGNATE ON THE SAMPLE YARN.
EFFECT PROGRAM CODE IS TWODIGIT.
X X
LENGTH
( SE )
OR
(CH1)
THICKNESS
( FD )
OR
(CH2)
Z1 Z2
Z0
X1 X2 X3
Y1 Y2
X1,X2,X3,...........= BASE YARN LEGTH
Y1,Y2,Y3,...........= SLUB LEGTH
Z0........................= BASE YARN THICKNESS and IT IS CODE
‘’ 0 ‘’ IN THE PROGRAM
Z1,Z2,..................= SLUB THICKNESS
ADRES LENGTH THICKNESS
0 X1 Z0
1 Y1 Z1
2 X2 Z0
3 Y2 Z2
4 X3 Z0
.
. . .

18. SLUB Yarn Measurement from USTER Mass
Diagram
Slub Length
SLUB
Thickness
Base Yarn Length
SLUB
Thickness
Slub Length Slub Length
Base Yarn Length

19. 5
EXAMPLE : CH1 Slub program Code
4
5
3
20
13 21
Lenght
Thickness 3
4

20. NEGATIVE SLUB

21. Normal Slub and Negative Slubexplanations

22. Negative Slub
Normal Slub

23. Negative SlubYarn Board and Fabric

24. Prior to the actual production, we are able to project on a
computer screen the virtual reality fabric:
“THE MAGIC WORLD OF FANCY YARN”
E-Profi system = key to the future !

25. AMSLER TEX E-PROFI system
SLUB Analyse
SLUB Clasification
Hardware
Software

26. FABRIC PREVIEW
QUALITY
DEVELOPMENT
LIGHT
SCANNER
OPEN
END
iplikefekti
RING
iplikefekti
LİKRA
iplik
donanımları
WinPK
®
II
sistem
donanımı
Effect-
PROFI
scanner sitemi
AMSLER Effect-PROFISystem
WİNPK PROGRAM HAS 4 MODULES ;
1-LIGTH, 2-DEVELOPMENT, 3-QUALITY , 4-FABRIC PREVİEW
QUALITY MODULE IS INCLUDING YARN SCANNER.
COMPLETE PROGRAM IS CALLED ‘’ E_PROFI ‘’

27. YARN SCANNER
•AMSLER yarn scanner range is between Ne 1 ve 120
•Blue Light should be continously light before scan the yarn with Laser Scanner
•Frist start and time to time , Calibration of Laser Scanner is necessary with Coloured Calibration Sticks
THERE IS TWO TYPE YARN SCANNER,
* LASER SCANNER
* FLAT SCANNER

29. KNITTING SIMULATION

30. FABRIC IMAGE AFTER CUT AND WASH FACTOR

31. 2
9
6
2
2
6
2

32. WinPK_Eprofi
Fabric Preview
Aynı efekt programın farklı renk ve Taşlama ile Yıkama görüntüleri

33. Design Original Fabric

34. Negative / Positive Slub XSS –Extreme Short

35. Slub Yarn Board

36. This is an example
From Yarn to Fabric

37. ABOUT QUALITY AND WORK ON RSM
*TWIST
* TRAVELLER
* CLİP
* DRAFT ON RSM
-Total Draft
-Predraft
* DELIVERY SPEED
* Lab. CHECKING
* USTER TEST RESULT

38. pre draft (usual 1.14)
main draft
total draft (minimal 20)
Roving material and twist
and roller-distance
and roller-distance
toproller Ø, condition, rubber quality, rubber hardnes (shore)
Spacer
climateapron condition and quality
pre draft, main draft, total draft
DRAFTING SYSTEM

39. Creation of yarn twist
The most important component is the traveler
Why do we need twist in the yarn ?
YARN TWIST
without fibre friction
= no yarn strength
with fibre friction
= yarn strength
No twist, no yarn
To make the yarn stronger
How set the twist of slub yarn ?

41. % 120 % 250
Av. Ne 10 ( KES 341 )
Twist T’’ 13,9 (α=4.4 )
5,48 Turn/cm
Ne 8,2
T’’ 13,9( 12,6)
5,48 tur /cm ( 5)
Ne 3,9
T’’ 13,9( 8,69)
5,48 tur /cm ( 3,5)
Ne 12
T’’ 13,9(15,2)
5,48 tur/cm ( 6 )
Ne 12
T’’ 13,9
Ne 12
T’’ 13,9
Cotton Mic. 4,4
Cross 874
Cross 284 Cross 284
CrossS 416
CrossS 284
* Av. Ne
* Distribution Ne
* Twist
* The Number of Fiber Cross
section
(α=4 )
(α=4.85 )
(α=4 ) (α=6 )(α=3,5 )

42. TRAVELLER
Wire profile
f = flat dr = half round udr = ultra (wide) half roundfr = flat / round
Traveller shape
low -bowed low to medium bowed high -bowed
Only for cotton Fine cotton yarns,
blends, synthetics
and SLUB YARN
for cotton, blends,
(SLUB YARN)
For Core yarn with PES core
Acrylics, delicate fibers
and CORE SLUB YARN
fine cotton and
compact yarns
for fine to medium
cotton yarns
for medium to coarse
cotton yarns, also
blends, synthetics and
SLUB YARN
For Slubyarn the traveler will be 1 to 3 numbers heavier than normal
It depends on slub thickness

43. Front cylinder 100% stop Front cylinder 95% stop
XSS recommendation
Thin place
Basic Slubrecommendation
For long slub
MC / MT recommendation
200 cm 200 cm200 cm
Ladder

44. THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Mithat ÖZTEKİN
Electric-Electronic Engineer
Cotton Expert ( Ms )