Textile manufacturing and fabric processing (fiber to fabric)

This presentation deals with basic of fiber to fabric manufacturing process i.e spinning weaving , dyeing and printing.Spinning portion cover both natural fiber spinning, details of weaving and wet chemical processing portion cover dyeing printing and finishing of fibre yarn and fabric

1. FIBRE TO FABRIC FIBRE YARN FABRIC Damayanti Meher DRDO-SRF Defence Research & Development Establishment Date: 08.07.2019 Textile Manufacturing & Fabric Technology

2. CONTENTS Introduction of Textile fibers Classification of textile fibers Yarn manufacturing process(Spinning)- Synthetic & natural Fabric manufacturing Process (Weaving) Wet Chemical Processing of textile (Fiber, Yarn & Fabric) Dyeing Printing Finishing

3. What is textile fibers? It is a material mainly made from natural or synthetic sources. It is a hair like strand having high length to diameter ratio. It is the smallest visible unit of textile production. Properties of textile fiber: 1. Staple Length 2. Strength 3. Elasticity 4. Uniformity 5. Spinnability INTRODUCTIONS

4. Textile Fibres Natural Fibres Animal Fibres Misc Glass Fibre Vegetable source Animal Source Pure Cellulosic Modified Cellulosic Man made Fibres Vegetable Fibres Mineral Fibres Inorganic Fibres Synthetic Fibres Regenerated Fibres Hair Fibres Secretion Fibres Fruit Fibres Leaf Fibres Bast Fibres Seed Fibres cellulosic Fibres Protein Fibres Polyamide Polysters Polyolefins Polyvinyls Polyurethanes Zein peanut Casin e Viscose Polynosic Cupramonium Alginate Tricel / dicel Wool mohair Silk Cotton Kapok Jute Hemp Linen ramie Sisal pineapple Coir Classification of Textile Fibers Asbestos

5. FIBRE YARN DYEING/PRINTING FABRIC FINISHING FABRIC READY FOR USE FIBRE YARN FABRIC DYEING/PRINTING FINISHING FABRIC READY FOR USE FROM FIBER TO FABRIC

6. SPINNING

7. COTTON SPINNING PROCESS DIAGRAM Raw material Blow Room Carding Draw Frame Roving Frame Carded Yarn For Carded Yarn Ring Frame Raw material Blow Room Carding Ribbon/Sliver Lap Comber Roving Frame Draw Frame Ring Frame Combed Yarn For Combed Yarn

8. BLOW ROOM PROCESS OBJECTIVES : 1. Opening 2. Cleaning 3. Blending 4. Mixing

9. CARDING PROCESS OBJECTIVES: 1. Opening in to individual fiber 2. Cleaning 3. Removal of short fibers 4. Parallelization 5. Sliver formation Hopper feeder cylinder Analogue pressure switch Microcomputer Colier Lap thickness sensor Funnel with monitoring sensor for quality sliver Card feeder cylinder CARDING MACHINE

10. DRAWING FRAME Drawing is a operation by which slivers are blended, doubled or leveled and by drafting reduced to proper sized sliver suitable of being fed to simplex It influence on quality of yarn(final product), as draw frame is the last point of compensation for the elimination of error to produced by subsequent m/c OBJECTIVES: Drafting Parallelization Improved Evenness Dust Removal Drafting Zone Drafting M/c

11. ROVING FRAME OBJECTIVES : Drafting Twisting(protective twist impart) Winding ROVING M/C BOBBIN PROFILE

12. RING FRAME The Ring frame transform roving from roving frame to spun yarn by following operation Drafting - Attenuate the roving until the required fineness is achieved Twisting -To impart strength to the fiber strand by twisting it Winding - To wind up the resultant yarn in a form suitable for storage , transportation and further processing Drafting Zone Drafting M/c Ring Frame Machine

13. Manufacturing of the fibre forming polymer. Spinning ( extrusion through spinneret) Stretching/Drawing ( improving strength and crystanillity ) Texturing/Crimping ( developing natural fibre properties) Intermingling/Interlacing (applied instead of twisting) Heat setting (made dimensionally stable) Cutting: According to requirements. Flow chart of Man Made Fiber production

14. The conversion of polymer into fibre is called spinning. The fibre forming substance is made temporarily fluid, extruded through spinneret and then returned to solid state (by solidification) in fibre form Three types of spinning process : – Melt spinning (Synthetic). – Wet spinning. – Dry spinning. MAN MADE FIBRE SPINNING

15. MAN MADE FIBRE SPINNING TECHNOLOGY

16. PARAMETERS MELT SPINNING DRY SPINNING WET SPINNING Process The process of spinning by which fibre or filament is produced from melted polymer chips by extruding through spinneret continuous filament produced here. In dry spinning, the fibre forming polymer dissolved in a volatile solvent is introduced into a heated drying chamber where the solvent is evaporated and solid fibre is obtained through spinneret In wet spinning the dope is extruded through spinneret and in contact of coagulant cellulose is regenerated. Solvent Not Required Only volatile organic solvent Both organic or non organic solvent can be used Spinning Speed 3000 m/min 500-1500 m/min 30-300 m/min Heat of spinning High Very High Low Application Filament / Staple Filament Filament / Staple Hazard Non Toxic Toxic Toxic Investment Cost Low High Low Fibre can be spunned PET, Polyamide, Polyolefine Cellulose acetate, Triacetate , Acrylic Viscose, Cuprammonium , Acrylic SPINNING DIFFERENCE

17. DRY JET WET SPINNING Dry jet wet spinning is a modification of wet spinning, where the spinneret is kept just outside the surface of coagulation bath. In this case, the fibre is extruded into air/gaseous environment and then is pulled inside a coagulation bath Example : Meta- aramide Fibre (Kevlar, Nomex ) General Characteristic of Meta- aramide Fibre : Good resistance to abrasion Good thermal insulation Nonconductive under normal condition No melting point, degradation start from 500 ◦ C Low Flammability Good Fabric integrity at higher temp Dry – Jet Wet Spinning Process

18. FABRIC M/F PROCESS

19. FORMATION OF FABRIC Weaving Knitting Braiding Nonwovens

20. WEAVING Interlacement of yarn is called Weaving Warp Plain Weave Weft There are three basic weaves: 1.Plain 2.Twill 3.Sateen Twill weave Sateen weave

21. MATERIAL FLOW IN WEAVING WINDING WARPING SIZING DRAWING IN WEAVING

22. WINDING OBJECTIVES: To produced a good package that contain long length of yarn & unwound well during warping To removed objectionable yarn fault Yarn Package

23. OBJECTIVES: To arrange a convenient number of warp yarn so that they can be collected on a single warper ’s beam An operation where yarn is transferred from single packages of yarn to an even sheet of yarn representing hundreds of ends and then wound on to a warp beam . WARPING

24. OBJECTIVES: To Improve the tensile strength & abrasion resistance of yarn Strengthen the yarn Make outer surface of yarn smoother Lubricate the yarn Adhesives : Starch and gum Lubricant : Fatty & Oily substance SIZING Sizing Machine

25. DRAWING -IN This is a process of drawing every warp end through its drop wire, heald eye and reed dents Drawing –in process

26. Shedding Picking Beating Take up Let off Warp stop Weft stop AUXILIARY MOTIONS DIFFERENT MOTIONS OF WEAVING SECONDRY MOTION PRIMARY MOTION

27. Shedding To Separate the warp thread in to two layers, one is raised and other is lower Picking To insert weft thread across the warp through shed Beat Up To push the weft yarn that has been inserted across the warp ,to the fell of the cloth PRIMARY MOTION

28. Take Up Motion To draw the fabric to the cloth roller regularly as it woven, maintaining the pick density and pick spacing through out the cloth Let-Off Motion To regulate the amount of warp delivered from the warp beam during weaving To maintain the necessary tension upon the warp To influence the number of picks per unit space in a fabric being subsidiary to take up motion SECONDARY MOTION

29. FACTOR EFFECT THE PROPERTIES OF END PRODUCT Parameter Fabric Properties Fiber Length Durability -Tensile strength, Tearing strength, Abrasion resistance Aesthetic Properties- Drape, Stiffness, Stability, Crease recovery 3 . Comfort - Waterproof, Water repellent, stretch and recovery, Thermal insulation Maintenance – Color fastness,(light, rubbing, perspiration) storage(moth resistance, stain resistance ) Fineness Type of fibre Yarn Count Twist Process of manufacturing Fabric Weave Yarn density Fabric manufacturing process Fabric dyeing process Dye/ finish Solubility Compatibility

30. WET CHEMICAL PROCESSING

31. WET CHEMICAL PROCESSING OF TEXTILE There are three step of wet processing sector Preparation process Coloration process Finishing Process These process ensure that textile have the right physical and chemical properties to enable them to be colored or finished Examples: Singeing De-sizing Scouring Bleaching Heat Setting etcs . The processes exist to provide the textile with color either for aesthetic reasons or for some functional purpose determined by the product Examples: Dyeing Printing These processes exist to provide the textile with the properties that the end- use demand and which have not already been provided by any earlier process. Examples: Starch Finish Resin Finish Water Repellent Flame Retardant

32. Dyestuff is organic or inorganic substances which can absorb light and reflect some lights to show color . Actually the dyestuff is water soluble substance Pigment is a substance that can absorb light and reflect some light to show color but it is water insoluble substances. Normally it is used for printing(with the presence of binder) or mass –coloration of the synthetic fibres Mechanism of Dyeing: 1. Moving of dyestuff from dye bath to surface of fibre 2. Adsorption of the dyestuff into the surface of the fibre 3. Diffusion of dyestuff in to the interior of the fibre Basic Textile Term & Definitions Used in Dyeing

33. Coloring matter Direct Dye Pigment Ingrain Dye Natural Dye Synthetic Dye Dyestuff Water insoluble Dye Water soluble Dye Vat Dye Sulphur Dye Disperse Dye Reactive Dye Acid Dye Basic Dye Optical whitener Mineral color Oxidation Color Azoic Dye phthalocyanine Mineral Vat Azoic Classification of Dyes

34. Dyeing process can be applied in many stages such as : CLASSIFICATIONS OF DYEING PROCESS 1.Mass coloration method is for dyeing of molten fibre or plastic chip or textile polymer with pigment dyes. After that the molten or polymer will extrude from a spinneret to form fibre 2.Fibre Dyeing is method of dyeing fibre dyeing before it blend with other color to giver fancy yarn or fabric 3.Yarn Dyeing is a method of dyeing yarns in hank form s or package dyeing. This is used in handloom weaving 4.Fabric Dyeing is the method after weaving, knitting or non woven to make fabric. This is very popular method of dyeing as the dyed fabric will be processed further to garment industries easily.

35. Fibre, Dye & Dye- Fibre Bonds Fibre Dye Class having affinity Types of dye-fibre bonds Cellulosic :Cotton, Jute, rayon etc Direct, Vat and Sulphur Vander waals ’ forces and Hydrogen bond Reactive Covalent bonds Protein/Polyamide: Wool, Silk, nylons Direct, acid, metal complex and basic Ionic or electrostatic bonds Reactive Covalent bonds Polyster Disperse Vander waals ’ forces and Hydrogen bond Cationic dyeable PET Cationic Ionic or electrostatic bonds Disperse Vander waals ’ forces and Hydrogen bond Acrylic Cationic Ionic or electrostatic bonds Disperse Vander waals ’ forces and Hydrogen bond

36. TEXTILE PRINTING

37. What is Printing ? Printing is a branch of dyeing and is generally defined as the “ Localised Dyeing” i.e dyeing which is confined to certain portion of the fabric that constitute the design Defined as the application of dye or pigment in a different pattern on the fabric and by Subsequent after treatment of fixing the dye or pigment to get a particular design In cotton , dye likes vat, reactive are used In man made , dye likes disperse and cationic > 26 billion m 2 screen printed fabric produced every year(Du pont Report)

38. In printing style means the manner in which a printed effect produced There are three approaches to printing a color on fabric: 1. DIRECT PRINTING 2. DISCHARAGE PRINTING 3. RESIST PRINTING DIFFERENT STYLE OF PRINTING

39. In this type of printing dye is applied on to the fabric by craved block, stencil, screen, Engraved roller etc. The Dye is imprinted on fabric in paste form and any desire pattern may be produced Example : Block printing, Roller Printing, Screen Printin g DIRECT PRINTING

40. In this method the fabric is dyed and then printing with chemical that will destroy the color in designed area. Some time the base color is removed and another color printed in its pla ce DISCHARAGE PRINTING White Discharge printing Color Discharge printing

41. White Discharge Color Discharge Application of discharge paste Application of discharge paste Discharging agent Dye Rongalite C Azoic dye , direct, acid, reactive ground Safoline Disperse dye Sodium bi-sulphite Naptholated ground Tin salt Color discharge of azo dye

42. In this method bleached fabric are printed with a resist paste ( a resinous substance that cannot be penetrated when the fabric is immersed in a dye . The dye will only affect the parts that are not covered by the resist paste. After the fabric has passed through a subsequent dyeing process the resist paste is removed leaving a pattern on a dark background RESIST PRINTING Bandhej Fabric Ikat Fabric

43. DIFFERENT TYPES OF PRINTING BLOCK PRINTING ROLLER PRINTING SCREEN PRINTING

44. ROTARY PRINTING TRANSFER PRINTING BATIK PRINTING

45. TEXTILE FINISHING

46. Fabric finishes are used to improve the fabric in some way. This could be: Improve appearance - color , pattern Change the texture of fabric - embossing, brushing/ smoothing Improve the feel- softer, crisper, firmer Improved wearing qualities- crease recovery, waterproof, flame retardant Provide aesthetic value Soften fabric or change the hand Add to durability Adds to comfort Provide safety Improves performance Why are fabric finishes used ? What Finishing Do?

47. CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHES Finishing mainly falls in to three category - 1.Temporary Finish : not stable goes off after 1 st wash Mechanical – Calendring , Embossing etc Chemical – Starching, Softening (except reactive softener ) 2.Permanent Finish : Not effected or disappear through out all condition Mechanical – Sanforizing , Milling, Chemical - Resin finish, water proof, FR finish 3.Semi- Permanent : stable not more that 5 to 10 washes Mechanical – Schreiner Calendring Chemical - Buckram finish

48. FLAME RETARDANT FINISH FR finishes provide textile with an imp performance characteristic that is it stopped the propagation of fibre when it comes in contact with fire FR finish is a surface finishes and coating that inhibit Suppress or delay the production of flames to prevent the spread of fire Element of FR finish: 1. Bromine, Phosphorus, Nitrogen & Chlorine 2. Inorganic Compound Process: Pad – Dry- Cure

49. WATER REPELLENT FINISH Characteristics: Water repellent finish are chemical finish Resist the penetration of water in to the fabric Permit the passage of moisture or air through the fabric(breathable fabric) Element of WR finish: 1. Metallic salt- aluminium/lead acetate 2. Silicone emulsion , Wax Emulsion 3.Pyridinium compound 4. Fluro -carbons Process: Pad – Dry- Cure

50. INSECT REPELLENT FINISH Insect repellent agent : It is a substance applied to skin, clothing, or other surfaces which discourages insect from landing or climbing on that surface. Aim of LLIRF : To protect from insects which causes different type of diseases . Chemical used: Permethrin Process: Pad – Dry - Cure

51. LAMINATION Lamination involved binding together two or more fabric of same or different varieties to increase strength and other properties. The technique of lamination are: Hot melt bonding Adhesive Bonding Stitching Bonding Flame lamination Hot melt bonding: Laminating agent Used- Cellulose acetate , Thermoplastic resin etc Process : Laminating agent sandwich between fabric - calender Adhesive Bonding: Adhesive used: Reactive monomer like acrylamide , N- methylolacrylamide Process: Pad- Dry - Cure Hot melt Lamination M/c

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