Textile Raw Material, Production of Bast (jute)fibre

Production of Best (jute) Fibre

1. Textile Raw Material I
Course Instructor: Dr Abdul Waqar Rajput
Production and processing of Bastfibre
(JUTE)

2. •Juteisabastfiberlikeflaxandhemp,andtheirstemsare
processedinalmostsimilarmanner.
•Amongtheothernaturalfibers,golden-browncolourofjute
fiberarethereasonstocallitasgoldenfiber.
•Theglobalproductionandconsumptionofjutefibermakeit
secondtothewell-knownfibercotton.
•Ithasbeencategorizedasenvironmentalfriendlyand
economicallyaffordablefibre.
JUTE

3. •Thejutefibrehasbeenusedbymansinceprehistorictimes
andinBiblicaltimes; thejutefiberwasusedtomake
sackcloth.
•ItwasoriginatedfromMediterraneanregionandthencame
toAsiaspeciallyIndiaandBangladesh.
•Jutehasplayedaroleaseconomicallyvitalcropin
BangladeshandIndia.
•JutelostitspastreputationintheeconomyofBangladesh
andIndiatosomeextent,butstillhavinghighsocio-
economicvalue.
JUTE

4. •Jutebeingavitalcommercialcropofthisregionplayedits
roleinnumberofdifferentareas.
•Jutegiverisetoemployment,commerce,andsocio-
economicvalueinagriculturalandindustrialapplications.
•InIndiaandBangladesh,76jutemillsareinstalledhaving
loominstallationcapacityof45,012and72millsareinstalled
havingloominstallationcapacityof26,020looms
respectively.
•InbothBangladeshandIndia,about4millionfamilies
nurturejuteasacashcorp.
JUTE

5. •India’sjuteindustryoffersemploymentforabout2.5million
peopleand1.5millionpeoplehastheopportunityof
employmentinmarketing.
•InBangladesh’sjuteindustry,about227,000laborsand
25,000managementpeoplehaveemploymentopportunity.
•Tradingcompanies,managementservicesandindustries
relatingtojutealsooffersgreatopportunityformillionsof
people.
•Forthesocio-economicdevelopmentandwelfareof
Bangladesh,juteisbeingusedinnumerousareasplay
significantroleasawageearnerinforeignexchange
JUTE

6. •BeforetheindependenceofPakistan,jutewasthechief
sourceofPakistan'sforeignexchange.
•ButaftertheindependenceofPakistanandBangladesh,jute
providedthatabout84%earningsofBangladesh'stotal
foreignexchange.
•Butthen,therecomesanongoingandclearfallinthe
earnings.Stilljuteoffersabout30±35% wageearningsfor
foreignexchangeofcountry.
JUTE

7. •Thisfiberextractedfromtheinnerbarkoftheplantofgenus
“Corchorus”andfamily“Tiliaceae”,whichgrowsbetterin
humidandhotenvironmentalconditions.
•Jutebelongstotheherbaceousdicotyledonsplantshaving
woodenstem.
•Theseplantsaremostlygrownintropicalandsub-tropical
areas.
•
Themostfavourableenvironmentalconditionsforjute
cultivationarefoundinthedeltasofriversoftropics,likethe
Ganges,theIrrawaddy,theAmazon,andtheYangtze,where
extensivefloodingmadethesoilbestforitsplantcultivation
andgrowth.
JUTE

8. •InLatinAmericaandAfrica,juteispreferredoverkenafasit
canaffectfromvariousenvironmentalconditionsandneeds
longdaytimeforitsgrowth.
•Ithastheminimumannualwaterrequirementof250mm
andtemperaturebetween18⁰to33⁰CwitsoilpHof6.6to
7.0.
•Unlikecotton,theproductionofjuterequiresless
consumptionoffertilizersandpesticides.Atearlier,itwas
spunandwovenmostlyinEuropebutlaterBangladeshand
Indiahaveemergedasmajorproducersandprocessorsof
jutefiber.
JUTE

9. •Chemicallyjutefiberiscomposedoftwocomponents;
1.Cellulose
2.Non-cellulosicimpurities
•Themajoramountofnon-cellulosicimpurityinjutefiberis
lignin,whichgiveitsomeuniquecharacteristics.Itisalong
fiberof1to4meterslength,lustrousandsilkyfibre.
•TheBritishstartedthetradingofjutefibersince17th
centuryanditwasalsousedfortheBritishmilitary.
•TheBritishEastIndiaCompanyandDundeejuteBarons
establishedseveraljutemillsinBengal.ManyScottishwere
alsoimmigratedtoBengaltosetupjutemills.
JUTE

10. •DuringWorldWar-I,morethanonebillionjutesandbags
wereexportedfromBengal.
•Atstart,itwasprocessedbyhandonlyuntildiscoveredin
Dundeethattreatmentofitwithwhaleoilmakeitpossible
tobetreatedbymachineaswell.
•In1976-77,productionofjutewas3,468,000tonnes.
•Indiaaccountsfor1,276,000tonnes,Bangladeshaccounts
for851,000tonnesandThailandaccountsfor183,000
tonnes.
JUTE

11. •Jutewasstartedtospinexperimentallyin1820, atAbingdon
nearOxford.
•Dundeemillsstartedspinningjutein1822andin1850, jute
industrywasdeveloped.
•Dundeewasthemainindustryofjutemanufacturingthen
IndiaandBangladeshstartedtomanufacturejute.
•Juteindustryflourishedin18and19centuries.
•Juteisabastfiberbelongstoanherbaceousplantthathasa
heightofabout20feet.
•Jutefibersareextractedfromstalkbyretting.Itpossesses
20%ligninthatmadeitbrownincolor,andhaveluster.
JUTE

12. •Crosssectionofjuteconsistsof5to6sides.
•Whitejutebelongsto“CorchorusCapsularis”andistypically
goldenyellowincolor.
•Thisisoneofmostlyusedjutetype,tobeusedintextiles.
Thisfiberhasvariousthicknessesintheircellwall.
•Fibersarecoarser,havingdiameterof20±25μmandlength
offibersarejust1±5mm.
•Jutefiberisastrongfiberwithverylessextensionthatmay
resultsinthestiff,toughandnon-elasticfiber.
JUTE

13. •Fibers,whichcanbespunintoyarns,aretypicallyconsistsof
morethantenfibersthatoverlapswitheachotherinthe
bundle.
•Fibersarejoinedwitheachotherbyanon-cellulosicmatter,
mostlylignin.
JUTE

14. ChemicalcontentsinJutefiber
JUTE
Contents Amount%
Cellulose 60-62 %
Hemi-Cellulose 22-24 %
Lignin 12-14 %
Others 1-2

15. •Juterequiresaplainmuddysoilandstagnantwater.The
favorableclimateforthecultivationofjuteisduringthe
monsoonclimate.
•Temperaturesbetween20˚C-40˚Candrelativehumidityof
70%–80% arefavorableforbettercultivation.
•Juteneeds5–8cmofrainfallweekly,andrequiresmore
duringthesowingperiod. Softwaterisnecessaryforthejute
production
Cultivation of jute

16. Growthconditionsfavorableforthecultivationofjute
JUTE
Name
Jute
Optimum
Temperatu
re (℃)
Minimum
Moisture
(mm)
Optimum
Soil pH
Growing
Cycles
(days)
FiberYield
(kg/ha)
Jute 18-33 250 6.6-7.0 120-150 2200

17. •Harvestingtheplantsatthecorrecttimeismostimportant
andrequiresvastexperience.
•Forjute,theoptimumtimeisjudgedtobewhentheplants
areinthesmall-podstage.
•Harvestingbeforefloweringgenerallyresultsinloweryields
andweakerfiber,whereas,iftheseedsareallowedto
mature,thefiberbecomesharshandcoarseanddifficultto
extractfromtheplant.
Harvesting of flax fibers

18. •Theplantsareharvestedbyhandwithasickleandcutclose
totheground.
•Thecutstemsarethentiedintobundles,theleavesremoved
asmuchaspossible,andthebundlessubmergedinwaterfor
retting.
•Thisistheprocessbywhichthebundlesofcellsintheouter
layersofthestemareseparatedfromthewoodycore,and
fromnon-fibrousmatter,bytheremovalofpectinandother
gummysubstances.
Harvesting of flax fibers

19. •Theactioninvolveswater,microorganisms,andenzymes,
andtakesbetween5and30daysforcompletion,depending
onthetemperatureofthewater.
•Constantsupervisionisrequiredandthetimeofremovalis
critical;ifthedegreeofrettingisinsufficient,thefiber
cannotbeeasilystrippedfromthewoodycoreandmaybe
contaminatedwithcorticalcells,whereas,ifrettingproceeds
toofar,thefibercellsthemselvesmaybeattackedand
weakenedbymicroorganisms.
•
Strippingthefiberfromthestemisdonebyhand,after
whichthefibersarewashedanddried.
Harvesting of flax fibers

20. •Bastfibersandbarkofjuteplantneedtobeseparatedfrom
thecore.
•Thisseparationhasitsrootsintheancienthistory.
•Separationwasdoneusingrettingprocesses;usually
biologicalrettingandinsomestudies,itwasreportedthat
chemicalrettingcouldalsobeadaptedfortheseparationof
fibersfromthecore.
•
InIndiaandBangladesh,rettingprocessiscarriedoutby
placingwholejuteplantinapoolandallowingthenatural
decompositionprocesstodecomposethebarkandhence
longcontinuousbastfibersarefree.
FiberSeparation

21. •Thiswholeprocesstakes2-3weekswiththeutilizationof
largeamountofwater.
•Mixtureofmicro-organismsexistinginthewater,cause
variousbiologicalprocessesotherthanrettingprocess.
•Qualityofbastfiberswillbelowerduetothepresenceof
organismsanduncleanwater.
•Majorissueregardingrettingprocessisthatthickerparts
needlongertimeforrettingthanthinnerpartsofthestem.
•Incorrectrettingisthatthetoppartsarefullyrettedand
bottompartsareover-retted.
FiberSeparation

22. •Thisissuecanbeavoidedbymakingbundleswithupright
bottomendsinpoolforsomedaysbeforethewholestemis
immersed.
•Intheformationofhighqualityfibers,correctrettingprocess
isverycrucial.
•Factorstoimprovethefiberqualityaregoodqualitywater
alongwiththeimprovedmicro-organisms.
•Usingcleanwaterandmorespecificmicro-organisms
improvesthequalityoffibersandtheeffectivenessofretting
process.
FiberSeparation