Textile Woven Fabric Structure Unit-1.pptx

Textile designs introduction, weave notations, representations, classification

1. INTRODUCTION TO FABRIC AND FABRIC STRUCTURE UNIT-1

2. Fabric: Fabric is defined as a cloth or a material produced by weaving the yarns or fibres together. Weave: Weave is defined as the interlacement of warp and weft and represents the repeat and also the weave size. It is indicated by m/n. Where “m” indicates no.of ups and “n” indicates no.of downs

3. Example: 1/1 plain weave 1/1= 1+1 2 m=n is equifaced weave X X

4. Fabric Structure: Fabric Structure is defined as the plan of interlacement of warp and weft. A fabric width is 44.5 inches, ends per inch is 92, there are totally 32 ends in selvedge. Calculate total no.of ends. Total no.of ends = ends/inch X body width + no.of ends in selvedge Body width = cloth width – selvedge width 44.5 – 0.5 = 44 92 X 44 + 32 = 4080 Therefore, the total no.of ends are 4080

5. Methods of weave representation and notation: There are two practical methods of weave representation Linear Method In linear method each warp thread is represented by a vertical line and each weft thread is represented by a horizontal line. Canvas Method The point of intersection of lines corresponding to a warp overlap is marked with X and the point of intersection corresponding to weft overlap remains unmarked.

6. CANVAS METHOD LINEAR MRTHOD

7. Representation of fabric by warp and weft cross section: The purpose of cross section is to understand the order of interlacement of warp and weft There are two types of cross sections Warp cross section: The fabric cut in weft direction, so that warp ends are cut. Weft cross section: The fabric cut in the warp direction, so that weft ends are cut.

8. The cross section generally gives the idea of float or warp face or weft face. weft c/s warp c/s

9. Elements of fabric structure: Design Drafting plan Denting plan Peg plan

10. Design: Design illustrates the interlacing of ends & picks in the fabric under consideration. It shows the up & down of each yarn in a fabric sample. Drafting plan: Drafting plan indicates the number of heald shafts required to make a design and also indicates the threading of warp through heald eyes of heald shafts it is drawn top of the design.

11. Denting plan: The process of inserting warp yarn through reed is called denting and the plan that indicate the order in which denting is done is called denting plan. This is done for keeping uniform spacing between yarns of warp sheets. Usually two yarns are passed through each dent. Peg plan: Peg plan indicates the selection of heald shafts to be lifted or lowered on each successive insertion of weft or pick. Peg plan is drawn at the right side of the design.

12. Classification of Weaves

13. REPRESENTATION OF PRIMARY WEAVES

14. GSM On an analysis a student records the following n1 and n2 = 80 N1 and N2 = 34 C1 = 8.5% C2 = 6.5% GSM= 0.6857[n1/N1(1+C1)+n2/N2(1+C2)]X33.9 =0.6857[80/34(1+0.85)+80/34(1+0.65)]X33.9 =159.43 gm/ sq.m

15. Calculate weight of warp in the following details EPI – 112 Cloth width – 46.5” No. of ends in selvedge – 64 Warp length – 2000mts Count of warp – 40s Weight of warp(in kgs) = total no. of ends X set length X tex count /(1000) = 112 X (46X64) X 2000 X 14.76 / (1000)2 = 153.9kgs