The art of manipulating fabric

To describe them all would be to describe the entire history of sewing. In The Art of manipulating Fabric, Colette Wolff has set herself just this task, and she succeeds brilliantly.

2. Contents
clupr.r r0 QuLrrN. rot
Chaprerrr-Sr!ft1Nc ..22e
urNc DARrs . .. .. ..267
M'xEp M^--'rur ^IDN5
-coMBrr.'AnoNs
APP!NDIX
IND.X.. .. ... .. .. ....... ......r04
FORCNORD
PREhcr . . ......... .. .. .. .rri
CEm\6 rHr Mosr uoM
THrs Boo(. .... lfi
chaprcr l G^l[RrNc...3
. opposile Eds. cRrhfti'g
Chaprer2-SETRRTNG ..r9
slPPrEENr RY FuLNrss
MiKr_G R!.tsl|l
. cdh&ld shsh Edged ]lu t.
. ciLh(d Double Edscd Rulll.
M^(Nc FLorN.Es 67
-MrKNc
GoDcrs . .. .. .. 31
ckpr.r 7 S oc(Nc.. rrt
chiprrg-{orDrNc .. ..la7
. Hard,s$! Cord.d Qundrg
. udrines.{n codtd auirdng

3. Controlled
Crushing
ART $f*.i r

4. cirr'dngMerhods........ ..l
luomdiccnh.nng .. .. 5
sRb'lL'4 cdhEed sdrct ng..6
f Gathenng
GATHERTNG
BAsrcs
G.1TI'EIING MrlrioDs
FrtLng..... .... ....... ... 3
Run.d Eds.
garhd'ng
8alhdins.. ... . .... ll
snhdns.. ..
Note, rhis chapd b.gins \dh
Msrcs. indn.r.d by r 8ny band
Lo$rd uDd@ad dr i.t.vant
rhrousL channels H,trd, milure,
itrlomad!. rnd onc kind oI ct s!.
gilne'ng ar nanda.d. stfth.d
*ine irc sPelhxy qriarions d'ar
Thud bscd h,nd rnd nachine
edhedDs invorvs rwo pioaduits:
(1) rd'lhins erc$ rh. dsigmrd
cdg. dr rhc fihn. thinrlr.sm
allo$lDei(2) puljng d! lnE loo*
'hEd dDslnu un*und fidh rh.
.M or Lhc nikhiDg winr ont hand
$r,ilc unn8 ,he o,ns hrnd ro push
the rabn. nb,bdf,long rh€ hdly
hdd rlread Th. spesny oi d.nsnt
of ,r. eDi.rords c&d by r
gdnubg. h.ombharioD qi$
{hih G 'hc nnoum and d$in or
li.Iold! libcckd tron rhr nirdrs.
LmB nrd$ '13h'
salnq€d
nad
8orJ,-ii8 dQ.nds on nn,
n'ig sdtrhs B<rEr svirg dud
n vuhdrblc ro bicak undq h
sion, u* doubl.d or exh-shrs
rhrad i! th€ rcdt. ltrchdr ln(
nd snrh rlh a sood-siz.d tTor Rr
Mqd gath.nry. dr"* Gt fabh. up
dnb dc 'hrcad ofr si,,sh bw ol
$m running nnch6 (Fis. l l)

5. lr!]r].dlgil]rtriri].]tr{.,f
, ,! r! ,![ L]f hrru! ,ru! rr! qhnL
tr
\i
I

6. ih.rarLh! f) rr hod
rfr Lrntr$rusr 'rt L)l lurrtr!
LN.trIn !s) i'rl nx &!
itT'.
arowances: ta) Nd.b ,D s#r
atawanees n ad2rce tb) htq pl
uri{& birnrrrr (34'n
ru nu (FLr r 3) ,!sd |n rrbn.
lLr o{dtr rt Tr,! rurLcs ! {trl1

7. ebsbseqna|Ly3e]ned!.dch
Sr4Bruzr\6 (;4r Hrfifi)
L!lg!DlLl'!|,i,I]l![Ll(!lu
nrs, tn rhr bhirtrs I Lrl j. ui!
,1,.,;. F
i
0rI0!!$B

8. rr 0,i ioir iiqr5btsh/@d
() Mr T thedn.h lrchrnq rtdder
r.iddrr r\lrtrN( uLtr' 1r) {\
rn.Is u ijj !{ilD. (L] dl:)
Ftsln2eah'lirgskbl,edb'3
bbnc extenstn anada b) wth aD
r/ouadihtr n6 luqDtr.t !r
mlhurr ba [r ,fr3 I rr)
wh l2) eds$rbhhe aDd tb) bhd.
!" iJDnr trr,aJ.J!bL n ft!o !I
ori n{ir lsrr rtdfLg L l+j
la) sthd3tibh an ,cdse qalreted dr
nachh,F trching tb)FrtE ar edse

9. Flutin8 is a hand.a0pliqu. r!ch.
groovg heNen naDdiru fol,ls.
Lh. rrbft on 'n. $nid dl .quily
k.d runnins nirdrs lthe lar8{
'nur.)
D6ribuL. 'h. ga'hds
rh dgr dr.h *vd,l rlrsds ol
dr lrbn. Ln $. n&dlc lidbrc tub
bhs n threush rh. ourlhe on rhe
rduodn'dn Ding(hrn{dl.$in
ueGee(b) in Fis r-ra) Rlmove
'he g{hd4 'hdd whd .ll 'h.
An innsiblc iar nan nndclin
i,3 rhl .onroG 8rdEi,8 Lefor ir
'hr ri'bln r sh md srhll}l i p*ML
*r) readi.s r]t sarlFcd cdgc
sion A lull &lg. ro .ds. nry nika
dre
qhil!
fqinsbro z curour
rndr I rourddion i4 1Fjs. r.rt)
w[or ft ta]c oL libnc addcd br,
Penaned n,y is uodEnrbh. u$ ,
ru'ros
'hich can be rom Nay
T[. rurLd.ng. is r deordr,
hlt finish to. rhesarhftd ldgr
$hc! r{ {n.hh8 Lo b. g h*d
labnr! edge rhe!.ip or tubr!
bre*s 'nLd a ntu rftd sdlo
bg
TonRlnLi:r ( L) \!rh rlre ldBc or ri
.xrnsion dipn€d berqrh 'he
CIh
g .ins sn.hs. rh$ .o!$ them
appliqr or bpillh ndt h tht
ea'hdiu tln.d rLtcL lopnrdri,*
(r) s€! a rar ofhpe b Lhc bkk.r
'lE
srhenrs
5drch6 lhdndng rh.
srth.Alordcldmlkdl.d[|mnl
G) ss r dtco'nne nry oIlibbon.
hp€, or hGid or bP oI rhc
s
{-
hsnnchB h ftri' (F1g I 17).
lReI{ b Ed$ finEh,ie lor
Fs t15 la) hgel4t2ed 3''y tat a
eattured swa€ lb) ||hich h sbyed
A! iNrtbletadrF r r rhhe
srhere,l ed!e. s$n ro rhe sdhred
i+L si'rs bgt 'q i rarhs, whdr
h.idr A fa.hg fdr riul.{dse
ryFsn.cdsc ,nd all-sids snhq.
hs nftd rull dg.ro{dst ltiigs
Fs 1.t6 l4 P*athcins skhitiv
i@ a saMd edse (b) Gathercd
edqea|a|abfu.]dedkd|aa
laaetszd bchs betate lc) tuhirs
tbht tide aut rftush a stash in tha
FEl17sladl2ing3fufudedqe:
(a) wth tu .xtensiar stipped uhder
n*|h|hssarnsfuhedga|heinq
srbh$. (b) wk a b@ han'tsewn b
|hebackal|hega|heirqstbh6
(c) wrh a bpe edc*uched aEt the
rh an d rrhdnh; hfk

10. hrir ro rr!
snbocd.rnd au. r\&r
]!L](uld.iPclnudm]1.|
F9 t 1e ta) Ftnwhe a p'ry
oath.
e|ed2p]j]quiwrhfub|.rads
'I

11. SNGLE-EDGE
GATHFRlNG
"aa'nenrs Me'nods" o! page l).
t. subiln. fte 3ltllednB
(rcrei !o
.smbnrfe
6athd.d sfi .hn's
Norls & YARrArroNs
dredih6s - 0ai@! r i1+no'o
PRocrDrrxEs
r. Drttdc how muth fuuns llr
&bdc brlo$ fte sarhsed edse
shNrd disPray.-lisht. nodq.
n€nr Ior tnc Ea'neEd
edge ro
6rihdc fteleigrh or ung{h
rh. dsird rullDcs in the srh-
eFd rabn., huhlply fi. hE r
f*urchrnl bl rhc xnounr
indr cd in d. Iolloving cha :
rlc 5En&!d fE siDsle.edge
galhen4 is "cu( nlch. and g h.r
o! 'ne {cigh'gdn of worn f.cb
n.i skbildc hodonaly end
nnish(' Al'. irchins on die
.ft$gfh G piddnd ovd fl.l
ins on Ac lcncd'gnf br€u$ ln.
Iolls rcl€6.d rrcm crcss8Ei! sarh.
Fiog}2agnqedh-n)''r1ai
fol& Ibn lcnerhsnb g,ti.rbg.'
Drup.A sinq, -.d*
Eathrnnz
.xrends b rs adFced .dg6 of ,
lqdmd pr.. or rib.. Aslie!trIr,
tt. n16.d lolds dnp. tlMid dr
cmd. and 'l]. no.dns €d8e. sith-
nn,ghl[,4inc tol&, d.scrnds to
. poi G4 (a) in Fi8 I l0).
anglc dghrr or frdd lhin rhc ods
in,l rngle aheB rh. .urc of $c
,lEprns and $c lm$h ol dc poinr.
Fat @tbw.a singL4d9 Edtn
enig, rhe grneFd edgr kea r6m
lh. staighr and ho*onel whnr
rchinin3 , noadq alse rh* t)pl6
dc. my bc *bilL.d b diht trp
or dom, rnd, b.csN. of i6 ficfr
bilitytocuNeo!anglew]lena
sarighr. g,rh.nd .dg. k shhtlLed
al.6ed lron rh. .ontourd nebi-
Ittig d*p.n and $vell, anl the sil-
houdte or tht notung .dge fthrs
G.c (b) h FB l-20). s'EEh'mins
'h. nd'ins drge by 6Eiqs
rig,4'sine]€€dga7ah.rngBd.
ahB (a) Fatu re@se tun adta-
lb) s@r, sa'n 6d.ds.dtDed
at an 4et . lc) statahl; @th*d
edse sbhirat b tuNe (d) stdi6'h,
srbili:ins a nBishr. sain<cd
edse b dip in a .uNe nrcth6
{old5 @' orthe tro n3rdgc, norc
so a lhc d.pd ol |hc curc inse6.
$, unl€$ O) rhe hbri. is l.ng|hy
lu.ishr dd*n (sn |h. cdhcdn8,
or (2) the sitl.ning silhoudte oI
Ih€nm'tn3€dge15@dd{Edb
.deln& G< G) tn Ftg l 20).
lBrsd or rh.
salneftd44r
hser
meanne , !s rh. slhouck oI
rhe flo hg edge as rhe Ei€a
1.nsd of ungdhmd frbric n.cdcd
to rrsduce nE dsird fuun*s in
aflottlgldg€ha$tngf@Eoi'
As ft. difierence bdween dre
lcnstf, dl r fibfu gd&rl to
n*ch ftar kr8d incft66. thr
l.Dsrh for rh. ursdrrcd Lbric,
.nd cur $e hhnc. rr nec.$ary
pi.rt rh.fibi. ro r.hrde thr
Divi le rhe alse 6 h€ 8*hqed
and m,ik lh. divr0B bctwen
wh.n ,n ipplicdion fttiuns s
{nighr. on-gnin, nortins cd8c
virh rhc d*iEd fullis b,ngtnS
tdmourtd gdhenng tds. dc trb-
n. needs to be cut fmn a pruern
O) M*e a Iull-siE pnrn. n'n'
shpr rh. sdh.rt,l fabric is ro
nrch (2) sbsh a @P) or inat pi.
un tnb rdPs, .udn8 in d. dn.t
rion thr fords sin hmg (l) Trp.

12. rhc {op5 b rndhs
nic( oL pip.i
rDi.id rpiiL b ni.kh our rhe rr
rn ' :dd rrr dsn d lrlllEs-
:fkrFrhedos ro tu hlgd .dgc.
,+) conn.ditrg dc s.oaErd nnlI
q hrch beom6 rrr pa(sn tor dc
hbn. Lo bc g{htrtd v idionl
'n| rol& rdBrd froin ih€ sithcred
.dg. (F g. I 1l).Aildr$aE
rlloMn.c b r fin,1pa,rh
FonPPlicanons so r.,€. ,rrat
rn ts inp tutir, i.d!c rhe hller
$lc sqle Io! prEn drathg pur
not o! llt $rcd doND
sa&q-
DsFnmmdapply'hd.md'
sr4r.d r4r?.z/ge 8drrrlg
do6tr har a nortne cdgr rhe
drmrnndnrr folds ftLr6.d rbn &c
srhsr,g {n.hs dinbnl and drs
rrparn tuoppdst..dgc{hich
5nrcrhed smoo and
$cd
ni
ro oainutu a naq rhishl, sb]€d
'h. sids b.gin ro ddg the ner.d
.dsc ou oI :ltnncnr. rdo ouch
c{h&,!8dn roc r !ry.d.dgr
naled
jr
a .urv. lh{ociErcs,lik.
.u'otrl'na rouiddion. thr oppsft
.ds. rjghdygrhrftd. do*s rtr
RJkr rrom r.€ndsl poim-prc.
lid€d rhr vd,h of In€ d). cquL
,bE Edius ot rhc drtul,. curour.
Lr$ 'n,i 'hc ndiutssn opuirs
sunonndtd hy
satneF: Mon l}rn
'h! ndiE-rh. gdhriig dos bui
Figl2lslasEad.eead@b|r
dQ||ingh|MtadgawdMa
dnt@red adoa: la) ared d tu
(a) s6hed hta tu.hh tti6 Nhnh
patln (c) a'*tirc @titu tEtd b
Fs 1e2 la) cath€ine rtud by he
appNfuedgehEhEs|ayed|lal
and stai4hL (b) ruba stibhad inb a
ered. @ rube tuyed oE;, isit
Frs t23 FM tbhty sat\sed
st@'hg at the bp, utness tft@4
ghdudlybddQnabaly\hfi@lh.
FDlln6 muldplirsfrlh s(h
rddrron 10 a buirdup ot ri.ft/
dtr.{r'sel gd1rrdtr8 bmus rtr
ungdhered .d3. ol one ds n,bi-
ria thc
sathqcd .d8c of d. idr
'ic. rh. g{h.Ed .+e of hbh.
nrip *l is scm ro rhe uDsrhned
cdg. or nnP *r;
sdhdcd ricr $ is
*wn rd ftc ung{hercd eds. otfti
!l ?nd so on Ekh rifl inc(6s
rhc lensd of ft salhdcd cdse for
lLc n.x' irt (FE. l 2r).lr lhr
lishhs or Lhc grhFins is also
irqea3l lor suftinvc ri.F. luu
Dca eir iro*s crfus$nrl}

13. qG jop rn ( nnn)ronr[.
e'rq: la) one har at htqel Faren A
lb) .|ashed br hised at the @o
sEedqebrredadar|dded
e'par$d edse re dtawn (c)Paten
.edqa|hd.wh$qJreEd,vlmbh

15. d
I
i
i

16. *

17. Opposrrp-Enct
GATHERING
made sna trwhen (6hed omo
'abrcbeiwei6eg.derededs*
PRocEDURES
ro g c 'lr oppdrirt ed8s oI a
hns'h ot faLnic adip, $e
Ploe-
dtrftsd.slnb€dIol.shglt.Jg.
NorEs €r VARTATToN5
dpposi.edse n:biltin8 ro archor
borr, grln{Ed cdss ntd Mlruh
'lrc,duscdloLdi h ! dn(nonal
lords lan oovc nraigtl 5d*!cn rhc
pur. 0dhr. or skN: rhe ronnz
rion dfrhe {u
I rd tokLr rh{ ar
l$ddld bd!.en rhe sdhd.d
Ldls * rht pinrl-. desisr foc$ dl
whd' dPP6ik
snh.red elgs
dlnpd folds in b.N{n !&q
.lnP. or
Purr
Ftr d,7p.J opPdi..
.ds. gartrri{ rh( ErE$d lotds
tnoush rd door or drL dri \sishr
N m $r s.rhrEd ds* ii. !ih.
licd dGfl bgtlh& (Ft r-2r.
Fq
Pufed owstu
4e e!a9ng.
lrt lol tohard ber m rk gxln.
trcd edss nB, bl Eridldy shon as
,tuy G enrcn d'. garhcad rds*
of I rwo$ nnP of hbn. hn*d or
dnPing. rh. rords ,bsr
wvrld
brEkins up rnb $irriry rktgB 'd
psk (Ft r 16).rhrdoPd or
purld .Jrd
so\* Nort [email protected]
a5 rhe nry btunes $rallc !nhk.
&!FnTpos {u.suLherins.
p''Ilrd opr$iL. eds. garh|rns on b.
Fgl,6snipo|kh.g2beQdan
c'p6lb6d9es'slabizedlaa3E\
Ii6 dr Idkls hk ! dnsorat retx
rbEhif $nh ,h. e46 Afr. nir)
ri:lng,hc L€ft.dg. b br{ids 'h.
gadrufs n(ches ro : nar pdl lhe
rrshr edg. down$2rd fo(rtu11f
beIoE bAring 'hL sdhred alg. ro
oi.h r|r dgr r, r
suid.line
'fulNld on lh nq (83 r.,7)
Fig127,[email protected]@galhe,ia
ctr1t.? aPp6k ds. udt]jd6s
Dr sdtrenngasgm{lron on€ sid.
or 'he fihnc nLip rish'ly th. hns
.trrvd. Lft f$Dr d'rtdlvdppo.
sir€ rishrly (G{ ourid. cuN), aM
sbhrlhg $. ds$ eodinstf

18. Ev.n.ulat owBtut tdE gdlh?r
ii3, c cn& of a fabric rnp *e
i.sid. cdg. nccds vay rghr garh,
4hson rarye nitchs (th.l,qe
tht nn.ha, 'he sEall€r thc (nt,1
op.nins) Th. oppolne .dgt-rh.
outide of rhe ctclFis l,gh y
$ sed rhe
sathccd nrip.rtr b.
m,nipulft.d rnd a n4, qheel-lik.
6 ddemircd b), rllc,ndmrol
s:rhsine on th. oubide edse.
srh hrv€ dep fords, .ollkEd
1rcurd a cminr axis, lhd dimh
Lh a lrn ndDre 1owaid rhe
outr edsc (rjs 1 29). ro
sathq
'hr ouEr cdsc, $c srip nur b.
ronsd rhrn rhe circunfercnrt or
.dg. vir cwruilly br shbilued
rn.. Gr.lnleErce = dh,ndq x
I r4) as $c hrgd n.aslrem.nr
*h€n srimarjDg rh. r.4'h leed€d
b g{hcr rhe ourt! cdg. a$ip a!
aid. * r hdtrs or $e immdsi
dEuL,r ourrint wir g,,hs rLr
'hzn 'h. idi$ oI 'he inEnded cir
QbrourLinr. qho
SdhdEd
o!
oppGft edss. vill d.vatr tn rh€
Flg'13o|]sing|he3lashand.
edg..ga|h6|irpafuhatnbe
ga|heredMonaneedge|h4|he
ohe|andsla|d|aadanob'
whcn none ol rh6r fit rh. str i,
noD, dnft sla+{!d{pBd pdtrhs
tor rh. oppGidrdg. g4rrerins.
Iinnions ol. hlsd sh,pe coveEd
wtrh rold5 thar -os Ircn I ds{ly
gdmd edg. b , ushrly g*htfttl
edse (Fig. I 30), oi , hrsd sb4r€
lL u unu$a| ouinc covclcd
viln loldi thar .s$ rrcm edge ro
.d8e (ris I rr), nr.d
P€nms
sl'sh a copy ot Ge elcd shlpc
$B'stu a.b$ Ircn edge ro cdge in
rh. diftcrion or ,he fordsr 'PErd
'nePieslpandl{DlndpteoI
p{pci to .nrr3e rhe edgs tor $rh
ns outtinc rhar fib h d. 3prt6
Add n,r alloMncs afti dnfting
Ard 5ubiliing rh. grinmd
.dc6 tn a nnishal mznn.i rmns.
*rcthms rnd phtug rn. .dg6 b
, padded bdrd iI n*ded srsn
wnh ,n ion herd abov. th€ gnhc-
ins allow b .odl and d4 brfoc

19. = ilrt
'l

20. fi**
,.:."---"-.
\,-:
s.\1";;7
/:.
: il:
r:..-,d..-*1
]%._:

21. 1,r'.;$$
i

22. ALL-SIDES
GATHERINc
PRocEDr,rRrs
r. sd.d ,irgq shaP6 $ih sinph.
N.ompl,otrd orri!6 ro dmti
o all-sidc
sadu.J
p rn nn
Fn by xn {Lual anou{ nl
bhad rtrl*ot rumb cdixr l
h.rgh, for Lhc irnftd rulncs
rnd.nlirgr by 'n rFourr G{
Fis r r2). Dividt rh. .(rved
ino lrrllcs ,nJ ']uan6. mark
Diude lons *Dishr cds.s rh
Prkm virh .onp.hbl' sraccd
2, Gahg a|l Jou'\il th. cdg! or fab.
nc lur lDm rh€ sarknng F({!,
mdlq fte gathend lctrgrlr
ber!(n turh6 or iid6 Lo the
Itn$h betr\en ftLRrd iokha q
suy lur or oudhed frern dre rF
smlr (ndd ro crdNins
3. shbiltt thc
8a'hocd
edgs ,nd
5haP.. choonng a Nrhdd rhd
srns ft i equn.nd6 or Lhr
iPpliqdon Gcfe ro.subnliv
Gnh.nd nn.hhs on Page 6)
NorEs & VARrafioNs
rhc nrndrid fdr all sid6
sdh
dLng is , {une 8arrr.rtd 10 I
snxll.rsquaE, an olrlsdhd.d rd
r smrll.rohl. a ci(1. grhered to
rh*.or, Nirh,n€ cds6 ndtr:cJ
rrrsiliq ol dr tabrn 'hd billo$
trp benE€n rrr .&cs a prn df rhr
appsldfan sids srheri|s An
:ll sids silh.ed aPILi on rcds
Frtuwhs E o unEul rljhd
ro ilsid6
sdhcing, uiriins nec
dh and 'ln*d ro .orrrp* rhE pulq
ummd) folds d€Libcurl! Fu.
Dwi,u .dnv&s rhe baloorins hb
ic besftn rh. {,b ned cdss
inb i mac.riL. rc1il dlridEs and
(rds ro.Furto$rry on
lx8c 9)
l,rfi hsd a subltl or hxnil.
sids slhfhs Lo,n drct.s
hui.h.d
srhrE on lourdinon falr
oul rhebundled hbn. rbor. ,h.
$'heE
b Dak€ , purl rrd lools
soDrdn4 hk. r qud,r rodnoot
(Fi8 r ], Aru rrnrhssrLgh,l)
l$s 'haron.hnlir ongin.l c'rtu
J
W)
9e
Thc run.d rtrrrdds lhe Puf
corcpr a *ep turrn c.nr hc
pufi !n(re insid. r hl8q .tutc of
rabr!. nn.h oi rbe ourtiiE otrht
p{fl dnk and
8i,her
findins rh3
grhe6Ld*n,hEromcard rt(
Pur ro I louMn,n (Fi: r,r4)
b|a|lfubpanddawfuldesb
ebp ftu nusltered
jnctid.s

23. I
usi4 fte scnril, kft ih€ PdEh
onb rhe ngh side oI rh. Iahnc.
sdrh and salns
rich druler ou!
line tishlly Push th. pufis
w
md
sFEd odr rhe bmched pur labnr
{th th poinr o{ the IEde Gsrh*
rhe edsB of dr r,bric b Mth 6€
nssu(nenB of &e puFgarh€nd
ink.or ol ftc tabc A liebl*dshr
linins hcked ro rh€ g'thabg
bchild the purs $mdi6 rhe rabn.
o!.hll ind prcv.nb p l.sith.ing
thi.rds non bF.kin8 undd sllas
sh s hering d6dib6 .h€
rvc6. sd€ oI pufl sdh{in8
shtn
n beohA lie nglt side Dinple
lik poin6 suroundcd by nli6s
Iolds replace rh. pufis Tne ft.
cinultr ontlbs on the back ol rh.
rabtu an'l pmeed 6 dcdb.d ro!
pnfg{h€nns roi
Pi.ned
nir
grftedn3" $. dnplG exPud hro
einc rencils harE ciilrs * 1161
Nice 6 la4. tn dhdc 6 e hr
gd opoings rrd g*h.rlng cur
our on rhc cinlrr oulljra tr*ed
on $. noft ot rh. ribic. wnh r
senry sE ,llovrnce cliPp.d and
Nrned undd vbil. si!9, gnthq
pnll.d dsht {odnd x rmovabL.
seuse lire , Pcncil or dorel Us
nrcls ftrcsd andscue I sdl
ertd sdicbins sell to dtd rutuE
FE Fur
gdh.ring and i6 vira
rio6. rh. $nncdbs roLcr nk6.d
by th. s*hainsh<omt
longd 6
inq66. ind depd s rhE .rcks
Ma$d rund pulE citnd dt
covcng. ol liillr run6 aM nGrrcd
putrs ro n r@ denne'l by the
Nnber or rumcd pufls rbchcd 'd
rhe rolndation The kiclraud
30 .lG.ly $a. djadr rdn.'l
e'ls6 rc roRd npwid rh€ DI'
ned
Plfi
on r hE snug8k tnc
pufi iBid. r lulk am. ni*d
nom e cushion dlgrlh6. outliG
.vo corc.ntrn cncb sPa.ed ,botrt
,a" (l.rd),Fn, od.d insidt I
l,rgq circle of hbn.. M& wo
rhradld ru.dl.s, srith on rhe du!
ItG. calhd bolh Iw5 bgh
l
shile
pNhiu lhe pufi drL in &. cnrF
up. ald dre gdhs.d labric ber$en
|h. bs down ro rom i b,* und{
$c puftrnd rum. s€w lnc basc ro a
lound:do! (ris. 1-15) (Rels to
'Edge
rtnGhbg for Rum6" @
w'h prfso.Lrnng, rh. pufis
rnd lhe folds .onncdng lllc puffs
c@Ehd r])c hbnc inro a par
En.d rtllcl Puff srhFing
sbns
sirh a sEncil of cr ou cid6
amDgEd on i
Bnd
(Fig. I r5).
Q-"r
.-o
J#as
;-:tQ\i*_
pt-o.
i\

24. -:ri
rana^cayoya
) sh.r tb)6ahetteh|,
-?.dsich4ld)fwoycyTsb
a rcw at ya ws Mbh
.. be jored la anah,4 ow at ya 16 and il an
, {,,9!'i'3 . ho Li(hrL' nrd

27. -:: :: l
.!
3
./-,

28. '=,?a
)hei.
.i 11
rY.€i
.'fLn

29. ) Shirring
SHRRING
whengatheredoimu|rip|elwsol
* &hing sM *nisht eds rhe
d*Emsd ,a h
PqErhr ow5
PRocEDLTRES
nea{rcnenL lor th. shtrrcd
fsbri. to n ch. D.cide how
gnhenng *ir.h.s should dB'
puy-slisLr, modmt, s.nd
os. ro 6rim.re de hnsrh ot
nnshirrcd l:'bft n.eded 'd pro'
du.c th. desind lullncs b d.
shirrtd fabdc. muldply rhe E.
g.' dc*ultEmr by 'ne aEouDr
dqhtilrK .lbodlrrtr
@renmirh6.: s4dl r 3 (lnoE)
2. Adding a $cona basurcnem lor
ft. non{hirEd l.nsth, ot th.
hbii Nob lnd shicd hbn.
shriir<r s4hdy d.K 'n€
e
h'
ftd sriching (Fd xrmpl.. i
D" (r0 5cE) squr shiBl 'o
6" (15tb) my shhnr< r (5nr)
rrcn i6 non shirtd 11" oojm)
bs'n As :he nunber ot sarh
crd bwe Inc@s. shrink4e
,Iel nrrcling lin6 sp1ad ouL
ovd rh. shidng srcR Mark the
.hins lnrc on ih. nvcM 5ide
ot $e fabric wirh a hbricrar.
hdld oi hghl) pns.d folds,
or dcp.nd on a sclins nKhinc
halv6. qmir.r'nat * lbr
mdched to coresponding ses
ro
PrePaE rh€ tabrn lor gdhd-
'nB, .oY* tht mrl<.d lin6 wrh
srikhs. n.chin+seM *nisht
sdthlag'oiztgzagsdthulgryd
''6*hering
Merhodc on pss. r).
thnid. sdng. dr .od i onc .nd
(nrhinc *wing) oI mch snn
c*her ech ro{ oI nirhin8 ro a
ach ov ro a nn surfaa mrk€d
tht &nghg rhhdi {ings or
.ords r lhc cnds of wo or non
adjaenr rcNs of nidrins in one
trush dc tab& imo ,6clf on lh.
hudy hdd thH,ls. crther in(h

30. .
4#
,hllslbpsW,hii,hebbx.s,.ded
ridaiDah rbt ra.iad ar rhe .enrar
r" r!r.Ing r | trts' Lr!
Lh, hrr F,r r rt.rrLr,fi\
.i' L, ..ri ri-,riJ. I Llrrjtr !!
riiijxrF-'if
jrtll+riir
.'4r"1]urq.ar!i!!iirr
lffii,ji:rT.r'-rl]ntr
.b ? 5 srn4 !a!r*r dh rale
Norr5 a- VARiArroNs
tar siry tandsid./red o' ona sde
sides ib) sby h;id ri.h.d ro ri'

31. ::J' rr,5 orsrLnid srr.hn,a
,i{r g (F,B l rand (frrb
-|]rlr(
s't|fflbn!l]tG
i:,, rr !.d, Fr i5
!r,lunl
rio{r
LrLhtro$l i rLre do l0l
rh radnntrg rul!15 !Drorr{rrr)
!.nhuD8 on
Pag! L7) 9N(d I!h-
.{0 a r*nrrrribur! rornru.
{rudurr (rcir o crhsirn
{(h nr.h (rft. b
_(;rh.ug
\LdDds or p)s! i) r.o5o,ind
dutuE! \1'.rr(0,D$ n'ir
s
nduofLl[ rahf!. Lh. hbnr L! lrh
ro u,/l(,r rur^s rh| h6. htdr
ii. drrEd in'o rjunbl! of$l og
'hc iish. drPrr0 PD0r!r, LIL

32. Fie. 23. dsq heaw 2pdb{6 al
ireitu kp$ (se ris. 211) Rtsd
sr.v.d slii,irs rq 5asdt
'nc$uRd ad$ 'n
3arhrtd
b\s.
hut longs dm ihc rc{s o .[ov
sp{€ ror rngling. (lI $. nry hbnc tr
Nq aft( ft mdllg. or surh n )
Aft.. bpntuhi!8 rhe lld row b the
tir pul 'hc lolds El€ed tsom lnc
Iulr and hold i| rhd srinkd posnron
u'hlcbP5ddnngthcEnrcNo|
gadr.nd sltlnng. Nt6ft I rdp
shi+, ard sm disFnc tu'n previ
ous I\M (Fis. z r0) sr.vh8 shon-
ens ft rcrG io{ nssurchenl dI
ct@d J,irn,s i5 sr End on
Ntrhodt on Fse 6) lht foldsRi.
rl.s.d bcNe! qns sdrh€d in
sns a 4, and 5 ae *e@t ean 6
|@nchellwhm|hgskeMTangb
fuq'hhoshj|d.gsalE||@
sfuingafuysnaww'mwng
|hedescendi.g9lfua|rE9kewed
No tabn!hrar A full or pfli'l
Lalti (Fg l lr) Aho sl'imrs th.
6l'i. b :i- on chnmdlcd .ods n
eds,noFd 'h. !nd5 oI rht sds o.
mds ph.nl tb.
SiLhd'ng
fbn .or
hg uDdonc bur auow dr gnhcnfs
A v,iiahn dl puff.d 3hnnng
I,ufl.d tin .nbtl|ishs lounds
Iabri.: (1) Pns 'ht nm nlo{-
anG on rl'c long elgs unds
ncarh (2) r mesurd NcNrls
sF.!d dd alone rh! l.nsrh or rhe
tnp. nt h icrc$ tlr nnp.nd
srhcr dghrlr: (r) Rcducnu ft dr
bncldwro rhe sdh.Rd inFr
s.rions rd pdfi 'h. 'nr^rr,!s
hLft,blnr&dch r Iold.d dg.s
F a foundarion, shapi,,EscsLLorcd
(FiB 2.3) shonen rhe djshnE
Fo! shidng ro putl, $. dishtr(
b{u rD 'hc
sarhercd o\5 inur h.
alorr Nh$ rhrcws ncbu rd 1r
'h. dinaDc! berqEn sdh*d m$
b drca 'Nmd dr pdl $ho adja
rtd rcws ,c rorc.d dos and.
e{{&l rons{ fords dEPc of
b pufial shiniDs in coinrudion,
p,iedvdy laEc (Fig 2 s) DruP.d
elknls.
wh{6
Pured shinrg
Th. rcladonshLp b{we! rolds
and reNs o{ gadcred nndng
thangG fmo
PrPlndiculai h dirg
ona| {htn shtn4 G sk$lrd
:=
aubidefudinchanng|so|k@an
:<
:;
'-

33. -Ee

34. r€irt i n1:r{3,1!'rii aL nF ir
siii € rFdrt ie /r' oi,€rf f! tii !d n r
ild-?ri.'ni.G'r'lqr..4ot:'gil,t€
ir , E rlf 1a,r 0 r: i.1. ij . rfilrlnr€o
rr ao!.rrr,{!.r!..rx.,"(r*
'! !r-r <rrr€d
f @ ,r!44 j(r r4
F.! t an Ir ia:lni r ar I
ri trrcd(l i trii ,).!r!d bl f nq, !
]tl](ibr/(addju|n(ilr!d
{i! oillcr f, f,-ir i4, fry ilr
rhEcil!orj:Id!oreA]]!]
lia@'[tl!L:de!ll]xr]fi'

37. H
T (,NC

38. PATTERN
SHTRRTNG
-6brn automr a
t
3hh€d wnh
the sathedng
rod IonN ry a dsisn
PRoclDURES
sidc ot G. I:bft 6 the o'n{
2. rEce tne daign onro rhc rmns
3id. dl Ac hbn. $nh e hbnc
]'\Niththegathdlgloo'ilu.h.drc
$. frehtn. (dc b "6a&dn's
Mdnods on pqqc t), sdrh and
s,$.r e.h ih€ o{ d; d6isn sqv
slo l ndppdg 'o $t&c plss
Ioound pivor ihc hbric on $e
nedlc Ihflr sunline dtEdon
€quiE ddj6'frd' h e6.d.
lishL 'o mod.nk ga$dns $ib
,. srekhhc s.ndr
pin rhc ccs
or lne pdn mjhiftd hbnc b r
pdd.dsu reaDd non uh
m non hdd abd{€ fi. shtiins.
sd.hirs{nd'g(h.nng rrcceed.
viiia'idB in rM spr.in8 rnd nr.B
ubnnsh r stithing Paln Pm
dua dir6q in rh. nli* or nsn'
dd shtring sftdr lcnsth ud kn-
$on adjunnmG 'hd frodiry ftc
lqhftir,4ishde$ oI rhe githdns
,dd mort dhcGion Thc loo.\
gaLh.iing ktion .an b€ maDually
nnucd by inhihidns l!. hbft
fron movhg aslly bw,fti rhc m.
de Io inft* fu1ln6s. Fm th.
frbrc by holding it do Nr'h i
6nss a ir emel36 behind &r
dr labn! buikls up in b&k or the
Bcrusc or tlre d€dry nd .on
pl.xi1) dr rh. e hcKt $n.hiD8,
pikrn- and mrandsjhired rab-
hc m rcldivcly sron3 Dd i,t
nor r4d prcredion rDm sR$.nd
rtittr ssbilizin8 may te quiftil
BsE a sby b rh! shnftd hbnc
funak ro tiE sarhered nirhrie
NoEs & YARTATToN5
rar $!el npq6 of rhe dds!
on a enPle of dre d*Ei,rd labd
to ddemic Gr .ppbpnaE nith
lmcG rrd rGion sdrins ror &b'
ndc ssrhering and ro 6sc d.i,ll
d.sign cfledrrss. Ihe p .n
n,y b. dt(ittrlt to lolow il rh. sth.
dng n t@ tull or th. sl. ol 'lc
d6ign is roo s@[ ro $tuk 'h.
.ihc appli€ton, msure : eFple
oI rh. fahric bcfoE ard aIt! a t{
shirrins of rh. pircm and .quib
qd 'hc hqd n*sumenb
M.4zln inirg is inrreded
lns*d ot touoFiu a pdrcrd, 'hc
d€d8n EDd{s rr!. ron.id md
h,.k*nr, ndcwiys, rcrcs' aM
riound,,ivdoping conlisurarione
ot puck$. rolds. ard prlE 6

39. i )r irit
qqqli,
rt.rr.

40. PATTERN SHiRR N6
rirj .icansod!rnqtrtokno@su4roioliddae,
4 d€'otr. E$!Ei iiir riff' fcrcii!n$roioonoi
@l/F0![dhsoE@nrtrfurdg@Ern!l!e

41. Supplementary
Fullness
mIry
*g
;* , ,.

42. J Mahingk"tfJles
nune desigrE . .. 56
b)€cddoublctdg.J n8s7
rull.d doubh.e4ed rurl]c. t7
RUFFLE BAslcs
EDGE FrNrsHtN6 FoR
RurFrEs
Do$led.?bn... .. .. +4
shrll Hm
s LDtsh (h..dge lhetnqfta
Lr{ of lirdrd rnmd or *dhq
lxr{ of fahnc, nor onlyp}orc6 d.
rdst or ,he nJne bur ?lso rfi.cr dr
$duooleofrh.lu l.i noN r[k!
G
sdheRd or pl.dcd I sdfr
u,,hr.nd qrsr rhnh has rh.l.d
cfcd or rrr." foRr: , nm. LrGd
onrrmktd [dg.
Ronqr o{rro.ked Ed$ng .+e
sinslc.srdt nLm.
Lnltitd sidslrcdscd run6 .51
Pufird singledg.drume 52
Nors rhis chaprr b.gins frrh
BASTCS, hdEred by a snr bhd
pdites d tua nu,in rufll* (sare
14" thh)tu|Jth dnrcary @h

43. rppsmc s{fl1s trs trrpkldn
rh.non rh.rins[onbcnnf
mnrd G 5dytdgt f douhlLd fab.
n.), n .rn bl'r th. .dBr (r ringd
or doubt d rid ptrIl.d nLllt.), or
ftaud ir G $rin nnch.d o' cor
Ldu(d{ldjKd runo tr fs Edse
Lrnc ol sdrhtd rhread ri. obviors
on borl, sid.s orrh. rum.r wrl, orlj
cDiird.'r'. nrl|r,riri,!fi ,rs
m,!tr o/rtrl,r't.'h. rid,rDI,rl
R l., 'h. /.mq ot l/l. s,n0 t's or
PJdir{,
,fti 'Jr
Pr
i.ft?l rit4ir
ij,ft ol rr..pr,J,raio Icr dtu d
nor edsr finrhB or a nrap ol rlr
ins tu,xmc alH$ f,nsh rht
A
frft nn ed3e. aPPrePrhr for
on rll ord rJd ndl,is b Lhr
dethnioD oI rhe rufie! .d8t cnt
llnishbg quickly nnc ro nnwd
't|E
piri.d cdg. ol a wdrn Iab
ncrum!.orulli lur6 ou, btrl
ksnG nYtlrrns Pinrrhs do6n\
whrn ,h! qr{/3r or rLc hbri.
tss.dsr]'.!ilg!ol.flfflc.'h.
edse is dffinrhd. Tht $nbiF
and hbri! 0r or ftknsrhsnLn.
ol rh. r.bd!. pdrr uP ,hL rlod ot ,
rheson. ird.l'mt qu|nr or!
rum! !trh a frh8.d {+r insq*s
!r,l,c 3{h{n3rht a n,m€ rfih a
hDsc cdsr.lhuds punu !, rh.
&h. r. (no!rd. one br one. rrom
frhshs drPcns. ,!oid snrss .nd
row z!?a8 eDs tu bF or 'h.
non unnnll,ng runhd wnh.ur
ror.,dnuh, 1o rhc.dsc. r snip
lcngl[ (Fig ] l) Arrfs.rhqiq
d{plr frinsd nm6 rm,l ro str
Fie 3 2. (a) stutdy ne eatadhs
(b) snhped hi@e tinish s6hed al
ft beNn.d{rhotrr{}Lng t6en
hndd {rh insid. a shsh fotd
ldsdhtr vih rho';or (Fis. r ,.
rhr ar L{lsr oI rhe hb,i non rar
Ftr 33 F6ins a sirde bb edse
tinish: la) P'wte the tufltd lip as
shawn lb) Fad at he tus e@ al
A lold turish$ rlt flo nsd$
ddrbhdJar' ir Doublne dn5 body
h rht rlFk rumt Rnd hnLk io rlr
huDch.d snrr o'pl.n lolds ! rhc
LhL lms nls$ h doubh rh. run(
{ip c( Lh( shp Io! a rume w
rlo sid! (i ddubl!-L(ig.d nnd
rwift N nide * horh n fs rLus
d€d nndins Lin. ro douL . ft rur.
lL {nP (ng r4) Edst n H5 aD bc
soill olled. Afrfl arl)li.nioD. a
-
l,
:,.,
tns edses: (a) sinde4d@n tufte
.tip (b) Dalbled@d ruttb skp
b|edsrbhrng/galhahglplea|irglire

44. .r. iodPri rris I t) orNr5
id.is!, ro rlt Lrr ol,lr iLLll.
l-r-- J
rrt
T\
tl
v*,
.ach 'tu at (a) a eEte &9& turb,
it lb) a daMcdsed tutu, b the riehl
nnP m6LnL\ih i id.rf bu
firdns n dtr Lh! aon iur [n!
Lr'! dhq J$ orlh h.ng 'o dr
Fiq.3 6 (a) tnrsde b.ds *M b
2 tune slnp, t6) lundd b the 6a.k
tu,h a eantaured and edaes chej
|fulngedgeslllxuchedinba&
(d)Decatat e ta.]@ dth both ede6
ntrtuLJd rdsr .r rhr binLlD( b 'L-
qmennf
lrl !,( !tritr,sdr
dtbnrdir*ro1rr (Lll. ifis J i)
ota tune st@ G) Ma.h)ne lbh the
drdire ta rhe skir wth 'sLt .id6
tdqethcr Eirhat tb) hantt nkh bo
brdededge|olhe]ah|ngseann
ba.k, at l.)
ptn he bindns. tabed
edse beydnd thc hhhs scan h
'in
th,c ttibn td) sew th,a dndrng
\!tr,, [Nrs lo.r Mkr]d ro rrf
bolL' lqLd5 (fLs l3) \i!a'iri

45. Ih. r no.r oldNhl. t0ld
tr' (5Nnr h iu{n€ \1d'h Iu Lh
dla nm. L , d.hq $llor
trdt u'ollrr
r.!"
o,nnrl and p(!
rd bnGinoth. rord t ({f?
i lgli€rcd inlh 'hn*ng!or.
pr$Lng r do!bL€ Iold htn' uo rh.
lir no,shr nkht,l ,ro ,rk lord
L
1t
t
atlaErce down \' l3nn). rake
aa (6nn) sfueh n tre hen atb\|
hteae at tna h6nc jtst bchw the
snothet ,' lhn) srbr n he hen
ta, I 12 scn) slrptrs atuet 2
stbh bdo|| h,c tun lc)
pltrhe
Fis 3 la la) a'nb stnp td a shen
h3n lb) Daubb lda hn zxawan.e
antt ptes
lc) fhe slitehtto
q'ry
the
B|irg|heneedefuMandaradb|
tl l6m);
p6h t thtaDeh the )rnel
h@ takJ and oi h bact td) c{ry
hpe avet the hen le) Pu te tread
Fs ?12 la) stniEhtstw)@ a tut
bbrabhen u apndaten@rbh na
r
\!,.;
s;b;;;(:.-

46. cdqe lb)zi9za9 lthd wheD
tud vrh a Mn reedtc aDd u)
la) staishtnibhe Men ctt wh a p)nred
th3 ,etJc-e E sdsht cDt (c) gded
Lah he
l rd r {r!h{rtd r0'
.ri mrs rhoft $inrlis ik
.l{tJJb!bln(l.lh..igl.
P(*( Lqd !, LruL,h, o, r.j,sr .q{5 rhc:isrs rtr.hs (Jr rof
'ir ihDA ro.n€|ot i+r rr
't
,-*

47. I
t
E
i
!
=
{d) G)
F a 316. Satrsrb@ d9n9s: (a) se\|n dturtt oEt he dt e@e tb) sewn
otet an enee hnned ah{ 2iszas srbhed ptIatztior
tr) sewh are, ) ktded
edqe wth the tuaste stbwarce thned aro sth sribhinq. td) se,n avet an
enqelundqaskFtle'nataawrhfu
stbhi@. te) s,.wn ow a try, stashtsrbh,ed sinsretdd hen tut dk:!p.4
th. finsr olr|I rl}(d Lound
!d*h$. iLre JKi/h..dsrrs. r rhlr
rrr (ris r-r6) ro
Prs.d Ir Qr
,,u !$eLLh{$r(i$fod wtrhLh.(ftLnrirNo,ssidiu.
rn(h rr|Inrhri.(riB r ri) $! N'h 1lt u{dre jun Dcqu*
N-€{s 1 si,sre roLd hinrnx
pr{.d Nd dtrdA. n.v lrin,
1\'tlltlg.]LrfN,|hol'l'
srNni.Lirg(F's r r0) o|'iD\:

48. rh. 3ftkh Eh,l. rh. body of
|f,. n..iil. hd dthg rhe f'bnc
9.p b 3fthjl o!r 'he seuon
rr. zisas srirh.d edsr dn
it u! wh.n r beom6 rec*
Fs.3.m (a) LdM.dsirc M a
t#t\dt tb) wq sdsitg n tias.
an [email protected] .d3. requiE a
nrs* o,*ro.red sdhlJry mclc
6 se c$.dg. oI i rr tu srrp
iBid. ' l'dd.rcd chain of loay
ftEds (Fjg.3-2r) with sriicb
bsln shon.n d ld d.r r]lIad
.@ge. fie erin stibhed .dsbss
ddnib.d ,!d inEnaea pF ously
c.n b. aupkiEd by ovslochns
srrh r ssei Ik $q* rdf€ .rin-
Gerrrnro
SINGLE-EDGED
RUFFLE
+
"dp
of ftb.k virh on. hn!
ldge sthered b a $ora aE4
n.uuroma! md id.hen @ iht
6brr.,-Ihe oppgne edle floc h
PRocEDtrus
L cho6r an appmprdb rnd .llk-
tiv. .dg. finkh for fte rfile
(EIer b "Edgc F tshing fq
Rums' on lqse 4r). ro $r,
sidln foi rhe nfile saip, dd r
$,m dloHnce b lhe cdshed
ddln sl.crd loi ll. nm. ahd
tndud. rllosn.6 for th. sled-
LrclA @dxnen eagn|s tv
*rss rftion of ho ine.dsins. !l.
dgas 6ni5h d*dbed pF:osly
Mrh i Prcc.duBr dirhrnc As[.d
aqlo.k d €ds€ is srich.d uti &.
nsht sid. oI l]1. Lld. !p. on a ss
a frIn a 3ihnrd stirh, dsh@ld
rosd leP< &Eion toG $. upptr
roopd rbEd @ 6ll ,mnd b rh.
back oI rh. h6ri., totrs rhe .+.
r. Deidc how nu.h rullnG the
SarheEd rome should dcplr-
slighq Dods:te,
s.n.ms,
u&$ sd .n .fkrrhe gsrh,
sing hry.r n*uco€Dt fq rh.
am. To Erimtr rh. ldgrh oI
ln. rnF n.ed.d tu pnauce lne
d6ir.d rulrnds h &. rum.,
Erldply lhe 6rgd nsslEtunr
t'y rhe amounr indi. edince
Flg3zzFab,n3hp6aJ||6ga[t
eted sinde4de.d tunh6 tua
|!||bddhahdasenalbwM
b6dekogdhlings@whh
edge r ead 8 ftqdEd |ol fu Ch;
dldNilrix= lr4dt x 1 {rmor)

49. mthins ldg'br ol rh. rum.
fabdc, idendcrl in frdrh ,nd fin
. Aricn dr dcc of sriF.r dn
lhe sMighigEin ol th. hbn.
d,h rnErds i! th. \qvc. To
.xrnd ,h. lcq,h df a rum.
snip, ss rhc shon edgs of
fu5dP5bgethg\i'hnghl
{rLe f,.ing dd eds6 m:rh.
open (Iic. '2r) (ro con
dnbB rff! ndp cur on rh.
shighrgnb, rcLr b Frg toi
Fis 323. c6stah tuke *aB ro
hawasfudgeedqefu''
large||fustip'dndextahb|b
frnne:4elfidhqakru|||e
. Forbi,ycutsr,Fim rh€
hbric Ijrh lins fiat .rcs ln.
.xdd rh. lcngrh dl a rfi.
. nnp, ss the angl.d edgs oI
M5dP5egethd!i']righl
sd.s fr.ih8 dd samlinE
the *rn ilowanc€ open
(Fig r,r4) (Fo! a co,rinu
oNru 1. nnp dr d! n\e ln6,
Ers 6 Fis. e 13 on plge 200.)
4. Appll 'h. seleded finnh b one
roig e+e dr rhe rome nnp.
arewen'|hghlangl$fubdh
rhe hrsd m*surme{ (Efc ro
"6aihei3Me,nod on pasc 3),
scung bside ih€ dslgDad
sanline inside th. *m .Uo*
arcE ro d€rr dth I lengdy ruf
nc nhp g{h.rd on Pulled-
rftsd nitching, divide &e de.
b be 3lrhd.d imo [rlvB, qu,i
rE. or.iqh$s; ru rhe dni
sons bdk.n *cEerB !i'h
Iqrde ro similar bur smeU.r
Dtsrnhr 'nE sa'nec dmlr
6. Pd rn. g,rh,red edse of lhe ruI
lle sdp ro rlc l,bd. \'hFe it r!
b bc applicd; bsr dtedy ov.r
lne g{h{ins nfths Machine
b6idc ln. basGg/cadcnng
$tcn6, hidins rll .onnndion
nn.rils ard the
3afidcd $m
allowana in 'n. prcc*s of
Fi!325'IoiFenafohlairlaa
,@n (a) Basb uE tufltd b tabic
*1. lb) Ph ttbk 12 ow he tuttb,
bes@ theha.ins G)aph@r
. As, hcn ru(1c tlEr lis on
bp of rhe hbnc 6 which ir
Irom $c f,bft to whrh I
is dkched For top nfis,
Fis I ll on pag. i) For
loi rarins *,n allowancs
inchd., (l) ziszas sdrhirs
(Fis. 3 16); (2) c6€nne wirh
, litus o! ildsibre hchs
(nld b rE 4.9 on page 70);
G) coanng sth a d{ohlR
Iacins (w thc rmc dshr
nd. up b rh. wrons eide oI
rh. hbnc {d run rhe ri.ug
6 thc fron0i(4J .ds.nnc[

50. M: la) s.tu ltE nne b tu ttutaE
.dce'zigzaqqovefukfu@n.
ab$nee ds* tb) Fuiaa han
rrtrns.mnt (Fie r-27). The
n@rins als€ of ln. rumE
$$t oEilPs :covo$ ft.
appl'udon d.bils of rh€ nft.
bdo{ thc sRh dlolroc or
rhe Dm€ r ln. bp ml be
5io! or ralfic Tl[ nm. r rh!
,trumcofso(lnhrabnc.an
b. gdh.rcd muchnon dch+ lna!
B@!a r rurnc or on dre bns
tn& b zb6orb sarhds r 'h{
nitching lde, a hi6-dr rumc n,y
bc garhd.d nu.h FoE rshrty rhsn
a rume dr o rhc sn$hqEh of
rh. ene fabnc To pftduurtrac-
dc runns a, rhe noadrs cdge. r
wide rume necds ughE!
sadenng
Rnfilt niPs mrr br g,rhsd o!
rhEd nn.rd by hard or shicht
q zis4g{lilchcd by hachine on.
!rip!
sathqed
lid trsft b nod<-
r€ ddTry br
shk. s*henng r
nor ssily omrcned sth fr!
nvsorsdahing.wltny &or
i
ae. 323 (a) Funb *sbd b tu
edsa ot a circte betaE tb) edse.
NorEs €r VARTATToN5
rumc {ips nrtd
earh.nDs. auro-
maic
sdhdns urng ft.
Srdenns
fool or Bm{ rhdnnor ts s hn
and .rrd.nt irrfn{i.. (Refer ro
'Gafi"ins
Mdhods' on plg. t)
as gdhctus dcnir in.r66,
(1)
!rus , n'neB *n dlo{aDc
(onlr rhe $:n aLlovnrt). ldmng
lrqkl on &e noq (2) msh dr sun
rr]owan.c,kunul,tidn uod(
nEisht. :ls:aggd. or overlolkEd
ldinin$ O) olgcrn.h 'rhtrsh all
lry.B iftd aPPlyiru rhe nmq
(a) or ,ry .onbimuon or n\e abwe
Bulrg sm allowrnG tdnribunn
undrtl) in8 limn6 ro Rpdtinons
lrh b* of galnsed sinsrc.€d8.d
The s,thcd ed$ or a shsle.
edsEd nft. is ndiblc. pdnnLnE
.un.d ind rye Dsted appticl
ctEL.oI]ngltsill{rckhd[md
luil d 'he nodins eds. unk$ r t
garhend ah ichdv r rlrc $urc.
Add ldlgA b 'n. tufiL rip ro
alio{ Ior rhe dcn* sdh.ing
.ur!.d ud anslcd apPrjGrons
insid. a cun.,.irck. or rngle rulr
bulge ri$ squekd tolds { $.
no:us Mgc unlc$ the srhenns n
lishEDed For. nLmc appltd
g{hdin$ ror a irmcsppltd bd.
Fb 3.27. neted tufit s 4died ta 2
tu edthacd 4tuni. md lqzis
sLbhhE avet the edse at th tuhteE
. A, ,he edee oI sD rrelftr ln
lill b. rPPliqu€d to a toundi

51. rhc ends ol rufi6 rla mdrk
loo* ends The flrdsolnm6lhr
nop d { cdse or rh€ {oundadon
I{bi. wilrb. duehr id Lhc $m
rhe mds of ru{nc rhr ldp widin
rl'.Idundarod rab.ic slould rpa
or &n ,nro rlr.
$pktuo!
sEn
ns.3-34. (a) Ruties Mk sta,aht ul
*ds anetued h a Mhs (b) ro
8n|a|heedga:tih'gaw'and
.|Ech|hefofljel'enfubbpe|ed
@d. (c) ra tan ad: PDn he staioht
wnlhednd@bhkthesbfu\'
wh€n a rufr]c 6lfd d rar.d
(dr ro t4e Fhishins ror Run.!
on pase ti), .onou!ry lne floding
.d8E. a! oPdon. shilc rltc .4. sil
houdlc lbh nrli3hr o a dmp.d
ourrim dmr .ngrs ed curus rt '
Lris or Iacirs G ,pprolirii't bur
r shDll codourcd noRnne.dge L
rrt d6ind pftnle. corbur ft g
dry €d3€. w'rh.rl[ ga'j.ft3 edse
ldnbmd. Lhe ooadng cdgt or 'he
rum€ sdp ntuE shighl tor ssy
rPPftrion ot rhc dc'ftd .d3. {innh
bffi6€kegalhaingedgea|ke
A nsr.,nrrr ru.t . hn . g u
ing dg. rhap.d ii ascalloP
Pr
rm carlrnng inighrns our lhe
{i.hhyaPPLnrion rine nn'ghr
loped ro rnd |l[ ilhdud| onsi
nill!.ur inr rhe grhftrng.de.
(Fis r-12). rra sinsLc{l,dLrutd.
n curr nddtrblcdf,b.. Gd' ro
'Edse
Finishing foi Ru r.r' o!
prgc {4), rh€ 5tu[s.ar bc pultd
FA 83. rwo na, the uppet iunb
applhdasfub|he|abicbedge
rhc lo,ring urs. dfu pd./ rii
3r(.€d3!d ljfr. disrl)4f in '
rull1c shru $nh a dorhlrd.frbri
rumesdr lrtirr ro [dgc rinBhtr$
fo! Rufi6" o!
rasc
11) Xrh.
.'lg.sdld'!n'n.nriP{cUloD
nnlhing,h. cdss bsdher fo!
s.dc.ng lr rhe rune 5dp L cut
Donlrrts$eIoLdarhrfioa.ie
|dg. Af,{
sih€nng
ald aPnLi'-
rion. pull r. rwo hltE dfrhe ruf.
ne ap* ro poulrh.body orlh.
En€ (.ja 3-3t). Ruf[6lcs un
f,(2 t.b) wid. frunclE effods r
*pan.ng dr. h)rs Doubled nJ.
116 ot .nsp [,bir ]" (5.h) $ c dr
6drt nlf e irh th! mor bnor?n.r
hrdly pufid'll. b ftb i. Lh.
pull. uck th€ spEadi,s rufil. hbnc
r intrryd5 ro sch 5idc or rh.
.ppl'driotr n,m ForPumnss rhr
nor Nhrft ftt fodndiro! Iabic
oP!nid3. flj'ro and b*r $ rhe
Fie. e. (a) DaMhbrc itr.
s|np.0|he'highlganan|l
pLqins.
lb) s@tatins the s2thercd
taFE wh ttu heb d 3 dowet.
(b)
ris. e t4 strate.sndn ,!flte pat
donqabd ve6b6 tb) at the 2ad-
{| aPdndb! or r4)..d rngt.
rdg.d rujl{ n,hrcunds rh€ dm
nNc efid or hrllr dg.! rvo {
i,oft rums.
srhscd *piiard), b
aYoid nsrl.d tdl& a' thl
sdhered
rh. orhtr \idr
sarrrrd &g!5
,nrdtdg. and iNn ro dr lourdi
norug cdg. ofrhe upFinft 16

52. I3!"({!'qr.,.rlir: 5rD i, jn
rir b d: td !I fie !ll5
reiFi}:oadlaJfo!ltci!,ili':nll!i'j.*
4ie"-!'lr rr i 1! i[x ! j r4r b]..,l
dE ! 1 ,- ri- M+ q.r :," rri.i/ i,i€--
,!T TPE' \,LE:D:!L]

53. .F

54. GATHERED
DoUBLE-EDGED
RUFFLE
rnripo|hbrtFthered6a
sdbmeds4fEFadth
add{nd sarhered nkhrns i the
PRoctDLrxrs
r. choo* m rPPrcPnnc a .IIc
rlr rinrh rd h. flo,h8 eds*
of,hc rume Eld edg. nay hlYe
,hr *ft or a dif6e finish
(R.t( 0
.Eds.
Fidnhine for
Rur06" oD pige 1l ) ro d{s.
oine rh€ dd,rr oI d. rum.
nrp sc' i I'nthed rlidlh for tht
rulle on s.h sid. oI rh€ cm-
rred sdkhins linq hdud., fo!
dd, nd.. rn irorEn.e fol rh.
*kcGd.dge hnbh: robl nL
n4surndas (Fie r rj)
r .ollo{ rhe prceduns ds.nbEd
for
.gRih.ftd
sbsk{dscd nn.
,
n€Ps :r md |:r, on pag$ 49-j0
r AnrLr rh. *rcdrd hdh b borh
rons edss or rhc nn. snp
(ft.rcd nn.hi4 rinc pilh '
hbrn $r mcd,uh or a pr6*d
toll, fr gausr lh. nrlhbs dG.
bre Ircn llt iighr cdg. or rh.
sdp enh a delne on the bcd ot
the $nns nkhirE Follodng
g{h{ b rhe hl8er nGurchenl
(r.ki ,o
.cadenns
Merhodc
on pasc r) To ddvd a
lensfty nmt nnp ealhd.d dr
pnned ,hEad nitching. diudc
rh.lhc to b.
$,hecd inro
halvs. qurtn, d .'8h,hs;
hrk rh€ dnisiom bds(n ng
n.nG {nh pinsor dElk EquRr.
n. by *3nHr ro rhe iargd
t. wirh a tabfic eit n.diuh, ru*
st,ichtoldning|ins'lr(indi
.aE rhe pr.rtn.n' oI &e Dfie!
gatn{ed nir.hing. Foi esy a.rtr,
n.y fark 0orh* lin. ro rh.
4h' rbr 'h. 4shr Edse of tht rul:
ne 'o ner (u*.hrlk. di*ppor
'ng p€!. a row or p'ns or r r.n.
ponry lichq
F€$cd lold)
Makljns $. na. b the
suide
rd€. 6r51irch on thr g.rr.d8
srirl'c b ibch th€ run. b llc
round,don. un nEishr or apprc
s{ds by m{hinc c's r 36)
u$ $. birr b,ckir.h for hind
Fb 3.36. ropsM appbran tu
tuubb edeed tudtee: (a) staiihl
ftnaftd a@tu. lb) za2as
srbhine. le) sah stuchind and td)
e.o@|ift9lilchi@ew||haga|he|
NoTEs & VAru{TioNs
Edsc fndr, erlhcnns dr6i):
hbnc dundcnsics, rnd nne
dinduonilry or Lh€ 0odiD3 €dss
r fie sids ol doubl.{dged ruff6
Ih€ sbndard doubtc.dscd nft E
$dertd wnh hrnd nirchjns. nrh
snaight or z'3ilgg.d n&hire
nrthbe
saftenDs using rh.
$'hd-
ing loor o!run{rb.hncnr (nltr
b crhcing Mdndds dd
Pasc r).
and ir is snh€d on s nnEhr bw
of nr.hins (lered bcrwcn dre
Drqsdng ltuE lne sbndard
&ft
€nru.r?rndel b No. rhe.. o! moE
pdEnel rc{s olsiirching tulP7ed.
$dn or t'iftd 'xj'rFinrodu.6 i
d(on!!c bdd df coDrlnal folds
bdwmthe]oo*loldsEl€5eddd!
nd6 (Fi& 3-r7). o,rn dddoB ,!
nmc 8,,heEd a lide of{fltrtr or on
a srirhing rrtu dEr oFE Appli.d b
a bundnion u& ln. garhsed nirh-
be shishrned out. rlr a'ning fld.
sdrhin3 lnc bclotr
8a'n.dnB rErdr
'o $e silhoudG oI dr. 0e!t$ eds6
s-:,a,1
I
.
sdo1, hs renzrcd sernr B
Fb. 3.s7 s$*d ean nrne whh
gabeh!Addefua@|a|lhe

55. It rh. snrhins 6 be sdhertd
veE Ircm cdgc b edse blr s
Cdh
sed unril rh€ ft.hins s sdghr,
lne nofng eds* ssume shdl'lik.
formrions. Pann5 Ior the
BIhd
ins thd prcduca i donbl.jJ'sll
rufl€ hir !pd.€ oclo*d by stith.
tnc ld6 Ald mrkins 'he stuInrs
Iine on $e back of fte tuft n.p.
8:lh.adoubl.rhe[nmebyhsnd
b reul c dr shiprs oI r]t slEus
B..aus oI i6 unEual ehaoing, i
doublc{hdl am€ ror b. .ri.r ro
ins fiey nesotiarc rr8hL.trRa wilh
unobhdve sr,fing ind squ*:
hc d oppsr. .dsc. Rumc d€deE
*Tloit the conud ter{ei {rd
ing bands of rofils urh rjpPliDS
edg6 ind smooln b,&grcund
xrc$ A scmlled rofiI. d6isn .on
toim ro . plaNed, Ep6dlg p.1(
Fm of lin* rk.d on ih ngh'sid.
or ln. rodnd.ron hbnc (Fig. 3 r9)
Fig'3'B'Namqdauble.edgedfoL
fiesercl&ira|qn|i@Mvs
An .llovd mfilc design pnEG
the surfae Nirh a d.,nddbg.
urpl,n!.d ipplmrion of nms
Fig3.40'Nafuvdfuble.adaedfut
Fg'341'[email protected].
sli|tfuwih€d94bL.Jr|@lfuw
@@M h6 spad a Mtuel
tur high ma$ed nm6. mws dr
doubh{dssl ans m rop6dEhed
bgeLhd $ dos.l! L\i rdjamr rur.
n d dg6 arc foNd up\2,n to nm'
,bour olc-Dmedd'h lbo{ Iounda
rion lsd, bu41ng d. bpsrithed-
ad.sa,rrftd *ins (Fig. 3Jr)
tu. 342 Dtubta4ds.n ffia bp-
sdch,|lhCon$*dfu@re&naE
fueM|abic|it)9w|1hg3nga,
ak'aledfusbfuqdephs
Fis. 3.se. @ stith ne e0 des@
t6i, sathu nd he tn<kd 3n +'hs
nne4Elghlens'gu|eand@nhle
b ho re dnqte (b) cah1e dN-
breshet tufi|a. lc) ctry vedon al
@. Fuhts @theren t@ Petuft
ld) ard le) tuve u@ht side tffi.
rh3 fleibiliry or doubL{4.d
nmb. cnwing rhe rume altG rh.
nort of both €dss rhe aordng
Iold5 o! 'h. hid. cdct ol rh.
.une ina*rt l+il. ihr folds on
$c ouside cdge deqese { 'ne
nep. '1. floding ede. lo€td on
rh. outr oF-. vill *rcth out md
rurn uP unl.$ rh! gdharng ar rh.
srft tr aPr.blly lghr *lich
will dus th. lullDss ded€d o!
rh€ inside of rha.urv. 6 swdl in.o
buhds rolds only nno* ium6
r" O ttn) oi l.s {ion.dgc ro
tdse are ued ror afl. /.ri!E.
rI@d tu ]a For rd* ffitd nr
fl6, $ni+t d odiDs rc$ or dou
bl}dsea rumc ar appli€d b a
Iound:rio! drh nodhs !dg6 rou.h
bg The
8'&ri.d
md ropsdth.d
s,s f r vdblc componctu or drc
c d$isDed surtu. (Fis. ral )
shiqht d slighdy s^ts 6* or
bl rkhn w picviouly a@hEd
rum6 o0 to the left oI the pr6d
Ioo! hold $c .dg€ or i\e ddd nI
ne ar€) rrofr $. nrtdt ud r ruls
wbn. bpsrirchins rht nes nm. A
ond rpphdton $ll nccd band
E d!'ddon. n fti rhc loundnion
Gbft $LtL e tnpoFry sbbiltel

56. bteEd ao'bte..ds.a 14116 e
'b(kd on€ o!rt 'hc drh* qfi
d.!
snhrnns nii.hs mdchcdj
F4ful'Layeid|l@Irgedqsso|
bieht. nshq hbh abve the t@
1 put d ,]odl..cds.d 'afe mu" bc
ft, and nndrd fmh doubr.d rabnc
$nh trnpto*rd lolds (* "Eds.
F,lnhins ror Rum$, rn pase r4).
rkr gdhdn8 ind ,ppli.rio!. pun
,h. nd. ru[l$ by pullde r|r 1iy.6
apJn {nL} b
'Iufrd
single edg.d
dn. on p'gr52) v,narb!:
Doubr$dged ntu qi$
ont sid.
pured md lhe odE sd. ' sEnd*d,
ndhe..ds.d flme (Fis 3.44).
Fa34Prep6n4gafu'bl*ed@d
fufud|dpultingaiqFfurnq
raPq oL lin rhe ends or douSlc
.dgrJ flrfls fiI noP vnhin rhr
Iounddion rabrn rapenrg involvc
ldldins dr cid of rh. rumc sdtj on
r[c {n.hing ]inc drh rjabr sids
kcing ud*wi[g, * lhd grad
mrh.d e+.! rdn G. dc*s.
rnd bpsurrh ro rhr foundalon ro
hD rhc.nd ofa rurnc $w thr rhds
d rht side rufi$ bsnhd rdth
ogd.i oprn, pull do*n, and ri.k
entd rLlte t4 r@ the tu d tu
d@ tb) bern sdtsry. t )ah6@r
ld) and th daM b tafidatd bvel
.
r tu.ri&t
4)r. h4 lhrt. n@dns
oYcE[ wid'h oI thr rume nrjp
includs rtn. rumc widrhs. $,o {
rhe sidG ofonc dotrbled hbnc nr
n in nr &nEr lFis r.46). Ttr
noadis edar oI thc m. in rhr
ftnt( G nMys on rhe lold rhe
Sabcnns nam is nrchcd $iough
rwo lay.6 of rabric I nme! lidrh
hon &.Iotd wirh th. finnhcd
€dsc t.lo$ rh.
sadcnd rLrching
lpread our inb sidr tufns. rh. rur.
:s!!!+!!!!ojraql|ljnddl
ro dh.h ld a fou'i!oo. lo|'ii.h
n.i 6 dr ga,heEd srn rith rlrc
sid. dr a zrDpd rod up .gdin rhe
n* ro $. drhersidt ortne gnlr
dtd aan Br hard, scq.rq fie
8:th.r.d
qn {trh rirh6 ftlr
side a,d i nkh on rI. d'hssid.
oI$€.cnrrnmi tu.k d ruta.
oploB iodud..nla€ing or dds
D3 rh. $id'h o{ rhc (irr ruint j
sn'P.hnsi4 or
Pumns rhe c{d
n,m.. hd garh&irs &c cmd rum€
Nq i .od instrlt hsik ih. lold
I
_ir.!rloai4
^rq!!rs
lt! 4.!d)_ _ -,/
in;a;;;

57. 'lldrL rLlll.fi(lnDindl
Hn'd.d,4bs '1a I r.ded
:l
i€

58. ffi

59. -.-1*;,€r.
i!
:.-t:
16
.-?i!
\'1.e.
q4i
il!

60. ,,f ,
:

61. PLEATED SINGLE-
OR DOUBLE-
EDGED RUFFLE
- srip ofhbfr. redled in hnsrh
ry
sl*mdc roldins aidorud wid'
dkhli8 ,lons oie eds. or den de
.4kin'e €dse or ed8* of i dac
en rufre fdr h Esuhi oderry toldr
PRocEDtRrs
r. c6e i pk{ing snrngemenr
Ior li. mc Gig 3.aq) DKide
wherher fte lolds wttl be pN.d
z. &lkr d.dgc 6ntsh L\at {ill a{{,
lh. to16 ar fte nod ,ge6blt, o( 'I
drc ple6 a to bE pK.d, in
€dse llirsh tnit wilL aaept shsa
cr.ig (nra b "Edge Finishins
rllow,ncs tor the *leded t4.
Iinish: For a nneb.dg.n rufilc,
Erq ,o n3. l 22 on psge J9: lor
r doublc edscd rumq afF b
,+. To clcula& the lmglh nqnncd
tor a rum. sdp plcd.d ro rh.
b4d nssunnmr Mzk. ,
lolding gau8e lioE a 5hdi, nrip
of paper ha*€d M'n dob
(l.ltn) spa , 6 aprrepddc Ioi
pl.rtins dePrh and Inpl.ncnk
do! rh. doB indi.at plar
folds: lnc d$rr. bcNEn doB
equ,ls ple* d.pr count ddE to
agular plEtsprtg. Mrtchins
do6. told ino ]Ic chcm rL€n
m,ngcnenr Apply the follo{
shighrgnh or dle r,bh., Ftcins
sdir6 ro€.'n{ iI mcsry (crs 'o
Fl& I2r onlege 50) For, sngh
.ds.d rulle, aplt &e *ldd
ds. llnish o on. long t4c or &e
rume sbs ror r dNble-d3ed nr
M,ikinsfirh r disaPp€fbg p.n
or dElk o! tnc nghr dde of th.
(6nn) to ,." (l rcn) ,In{, as
pn pl,nn.d. slorg lne unfin
ished edge roi i single .d8€d ro{.
ph* rhe rume nnp. *cuing
nrthin. strhins. II the dfllr
rdp it side or rh. iibht ldp,
hanl to@. pin dd hind bste
rhe lolds bcrorc hachin. sri&h.
shps oI man4€able {idrh and
Eehin nitching (Fis. r-50)
Fu . ptstd rume
qrh sh,QlY
ds*d Iolds, Pr$
fir lolt
(top Fow unlca3ed; Bononhow P!...!d)
n^edan|hesLpgihdEdpola
Fiq.3.50'rofup]eabwhire
sbdln*dleilNinbdb6|P6hil
crip xE je tattud tatd
"tk
the
pdnbd|ip4|he|abic'li,eunde|
Fig949Pl.abdfufuarhgemnb'
I-llJ l.

62. 7. ro atx.h r
Pleftd
dnglc.cdsrd
n'mc rc nd rrbn!, tddrti rhc
n.n.rIhEa,orGrh5uirbtc
sudrc apprr.addn (rtLr .o FiBs
Pas$5o-rt)
roPnidr a pleL
cd doubl. .d8cd ru[]. ro (oun
drion rabrn {{'n3 olq lhE
rurfl€! *anLh. Mrch rhc na
nli n,nrln. o. rhe n8h alge oI
on thc fabn. (rcfci b Fis ] 36
NoDs €- V,4fi-arroNs
Bfsrh rh.QPlkdjonsan.
pLered rufis arc srodh filn d6.
.iPlined rords,nd unddtaycre.
conp,id ,o
sdhercd sirrsk dsrd
Prcncd singlc cdgur n ma (em.
Lns'n. eme bllet e k$ bnlky
At rhc nod.
Pl.rkd
oms rcll inb
ainnsd fdld5 rhe r}?e of pt.d
rtfcds dr ddn idvrkd pleu 6
lhirc box
Plear
er$!r Pt.nrg
ar sc'ndrs 'h{ i.a'!rt roalied
fullD$-e*5 isolat.d in bdw{!
mPl&rd $sne!6 oI rh. nmt
nnp<onu,$ bu6c of folded ful
Pklt d.prh b6ed on a Iotding
sruge ol do6 spard !o EorE lna!
, (L3on)apsirnl,rspbpdr
riomuy b ndn rufne lidrhs rnd
:ppLi.inds. Fd pt!i' Iomadm,
Idld. rhe inn* lold an,l rhr ourr
ford n,r.h
Poirr
of one
rr€ . rnd,
deu. ro
Pbn
ddc rumc {ipi
Pa(rubrly iI lhc plt& aa ro be
prEsed mnk rbe.dgt d eds$
dtn a duplicrc ot lh. do6 on rh.
s€nlinq mfth all rh. nisned do6
{hn rordins and pftins sch
pl€d; and bsr d lh. .dsc or cdga
s scll 6 on rhe smliiE. Lo.ar
'ne Lbnc. Fns lighrry b hdrd rh.
.dge d! eds$, and n€mr pi.s
rholougbly rd prodtr& a rumewirh
qnp rolds (donrrnovr uDril.ool
d dr}) ro @inhh llt inrgtuy
otlh. toldr, ippl) arased.
Plar
e,:l ruIfl. ro rhc lounddid! i a
Likt
sdheBl rufil$. epDlt,
doDs oluipft sed
Pl€red
ru{n6
bg will aftpr
sEcefutl]l The folds
or s mrc! bdviiEn.d
Pr'4
,uj[.
or nrllld or allo!* nfil. lrcn(B
4mc, bw mesd dmcs. rnd
ldd€d ruflI$, qndions d*.nbed
lor g{tund fgr.- Dd dable.
cds.d run€ pttuin o p1.a€d rul
n$ 6wdl. For appli.ario.s dmr
rtqune quandrrs of
Plc&d rurn6.
u$lltn fldi(rthrcnrrd.on-
veft nme nnps ,nro aronaftrllt
klirFplered ,nd nRishr srdrd
iinsl. or ddubre.edsed .urn6
sinph sdju$nmr .hrn$ rh.
duchnetu Ircm cdluing b p1.d
ing mode arl rcsulat thr $pail
Fb. 3.@. fhs tufle. a ge\9i@
lnldedbdxp]abdfuflbabmbly
iEitu as r n@h@ n iaht curc.
-

64. -i
=.
.:t=;
4€-

65. ( MahingFlounces
CTRCULAR
FLouNcE
inne4 !ho@* edge.The ronsEt
edgendth9v*hdfo&'
PRocEDURES
cnd,njnda-'he dNde
Diond'-any n€i8hr Liie
Fig+lciblsdi!@inbh|eei@
cu@ bat hecffi4 the tuttdened edse at he raw
R4nrlra nEi+r lh. dudng
Ri?i,6 ojn .@ins ndrdtr oI /
2, choo* beseo a nource firh
narc ss .onnolled by rhe €dius
or th€ rcund cu6ut in th€ oid'
md rht hnglh ol rlr flouna
. Thc smuu lhc ndius of rh.
cmesl curout. rhe snrr rhe
-

66. rhe ,li{rnnce beNrtn rh. .n
ofrhe loanng.dgt h.rsa,
funlbalCina|cu@a|i1fu14'
ro slun. a llouc, smpL In.
cfid of &nrEr cdou6 6n nry
'he sn. in d.pdr and shghkn€d
hng'n fieappli€rim sn
I To d6ft a d(uLr noun( psc
nen6, onc Ior rh. n&!! oI lne
..nkl cnde and : *cond tor
3urehenr (a) in Fis +r)
addi4 ' Ee6llnsr for
flounc neFr b lne r4lius.
s.ond lidE ouEide ftc liBl
dEw a sml€r cirte ffid.
ft onh.ircl. To include s
hen allovsic ldr a frllh
aPPriebrcJo I cunj4 cdgr
(d* ro
.rds.
FinisLins Ior
Rums" on pagt 4]). Enr{se
b, mdiG olrheou ined cii
cks (G) in F8. 4'3). cut our
the cinhr noun.. p{rcn
4. ro srin{e rhe febnc nquin
ne ror a
Prdcurar cirdhr
noun . applidddn (Fis +4):
c:LculaE rc l.nclh ot ft cir
.urar fnrine on the Pdrem:
R"b'applfufuMnred6ek.db
dfunganngffifitand|tglclrcwn

67. rltr guL,rcriNr ja,shr
nir.h
Fis. I 5 Ftmh sear ta) Mh
tb) rin the sean atavrc n,ax b
hesean t )Fotdhsntusm,
funireid'ul||ih|ighl9d8lrylh'
Faudt sean: td) wih r shl s das
toh6d and sew the :lnchina tines
nhnd sdn abB cd 0 open
edq$lbhnenbbelddalsan
our|nrc Loq,! ,h! sift oP.ni!:
qnl]rh'Fi]d'htrL.n{t$
. nou(
Fitr {id, ! ar6ihr.
]fuNngo|'htn6rig.dgld
(F1g + 6) .oDRr rhr nouc!
.lE'edb*ailh|en|U|heap'Ea'
Fis. I 7 ra apet a laune ta a tD6
datbn ta) wh* rcrc af tatnes
tbunce ieht s@ q
tb) sew a
rotnce @ se up 'nd nb t ove'
b *an dowhcc b) sew nshl

68. .,lses, bosk rhc 0oume, dghr
side trp, ro l!. nght snL or fib
iic #t. wift dehL sid6 rq.ln.
q pi! bbn. .2 Ns bolh and
suv rriFueh an hYG !q' 'o
Mnd cdse oI rxbn. *z o!{
n@!.. .nd dgErirch rhmusn
.In:h.frtdtnent {d Bind
rhe ldge when a floune lts
on top ol dr rabnc b wnich
itn nkch.d 9.w a mrc{
ddc down, ovF 'ne uounc.l
rm rhelindrng ovd sll $,o
JloNbes ro the b{k. rnd
*e fsbnc under d* nounc
s€se he 4F n.oa a 6 ^ary
l.)
tabti, etur*n \cn krc@ an id/ \,
Fig'[email protected]|a|a
tuthE (a) attd tud1tudins the
tbum b kbto 81, M
ptn tdbtu *2
ed both wtth dqht stu bgetha4
d (c) ph amt sde$ttdh the lutu
ed@d|26fuPove|d]*dm
I*n. to which it G la.bed
scs a facin8, ngh nd. doq,
lacins to lnE bi.k 0f the fab'
ric dd lb. nou..e nshr 5ide
sidc dM, ovcr rh. lbm ol a
noun( ippljetro! lEds gninline
b8lin€il E 'o hang &c eoe rdY
on.ithqsful.oficmd|PdiilPh(
rhe ni,ghleub ol r nru(. in tlt
tu. biai of &. noune in tu anrs.
Fn ltom.6 snpli.d h fttrldph
[Nrc L mNdnrLy chaiging, i
Ldg rcws dd muldpl. dc oI
oounc.s GquR $c chrinins bgcdt
s ofm,iv rhl6 For shqt sws or
floufts frrh nodeof b tum.l
nrq . *gnnt ol tu entiE cidlar
fldna Pakn
my ]le :ll Lha'!
naded Ior oft roq To balane 'llc
sEiilin.
on all roE Dd $v. m hb.
ft s {dl, ,lisn thc *sm.ns i!
io\s on 'h€ rabhc whm ouhg dr
NorEs & VARIATIoN5
A circuh noune go.aE ndt
hg rdln6 by m@ulag,ng n,n, ,nd
dc n {fthdt bltrig trp rht *:m
line Th. citulrhty ind dcpd oI 'ne
flouE. pdtn, rhe hbd. @mpd
mnq ind $. olse ffdh Et ftlRt
oidnal wYds d 6e luins
.dgc. bur a smooth b{
oI noun.c
hbnc 4 th. sanlin. B, toBknr.
Fb 41o cdire sutue hat rcpeaE

69. fN{qD'd{€*olippldbq
rt p.'l|+l) | hrh d$orrh.
]nftdul$5ndsddjdJ''3lug
h, r num( lrtrsrN tiu
{an h hor rin6h ,he cdse
t0
lounc iFid. ar rHd a$!
lFig 4 r2) rf Lhl dsi or L(\!dr
((h) tr' [3 {f2) dipptrBll( 5qn
slishL ((O h ris + 1.1). du!h,hr
i Nr,r bdf! md mn. rictorl
.rrdo /rourd b&ub r$5 n
d.prh or rLrc foufr rprr Glisl,rLi
f
t
Afret lnishlne ths lsrre edee dus

70. (r€ I xn s.! rk Lnua t 'hr
lE{oc rsEs ri+, i . o(r irFl
1|q([ioidtlnrl0u((qljJ
arot0'0( 'rr|lfus !]) rorLl
qPrad !4c of dE nouc beLo\:
(2t rrr re\5 o{ noun$ ue loo
^ r,,,r. dsar .tu ,h lr. d(
Fie 4.s L) rwo.ndat torn.a
s,ewr bseths lb) aDd a?Pte wth
.{ a r4}o(d io,,bJ( .,lgnr .rtr
la,,ldn!(.1!{! rl,! 5!ntnn.s or
nr[{ 6 onr i .]hr( .r (a Ll'!,rp

74. .r.:rr i n|a i! i,r
t-

75. CoNTRoLLED
FLouNcE
PRCJcEDUtE5
-\-
ha $t he lasredindsirtad hb
(, ir rr|5 r r3 + ro.iid
Fe. I 13 ta) ra,sel Pabn wth tires
ind.atirs tad tdrore @) lashed
zrd equdry spread lc) Frat p.tdn
ld) cqta@ tome hade ttan
Lonih€{Jj'L[!!d4.f
rl,. i!{o ! r0\.m( | ha Ddr

76. I
s slrl involeG inlom.d guca
rclk Paddd.E lor tlE
qid.dine
fi {ill prcdua dishr nppLs,
node€k w!v6. or lavBi Iolds i!
dr flodrs .dg. ,ie .{n$sd r
sln.hhriHln
c, r vholc lot.
sonsh4e in berw{n addiion
rlly, rh. chanden{ns of thc
inknd.d f1btu .nd dr finnh
applid ro rh. no:dns.+.lill
afccr rh€ rypEErc
dI iny sn'ounr
ot flared rulln6! Id bdoi€ final.
nins a lonhll.d flonn.e pdtfr
nounc afrer it is appli.d, rlmgc
lh. fl:nns n lnr noiing dse io
Efl<r $. inrcn'idns oI rhc pnkr
{hiL rhc flounce n han8ine. dr
drau..ndpi! b a nrsu kt
Nolfs €. VAR,ATToN5
Lik chuhi 00urc6. confrnd
foun.6 rnay te ldrd.d (*d or
oI th. dlhd) and /.rrk{ds.d (tuo
nounfts fisnns our b dre sid6Apply rhc $lecEd Iinish b $e
Finislrhg l.r fum.d,on pict 4:]J,
hur if rhe noune is l.ng ry lron
alEr $. ndun c L ,ppltd Ld n
hrng lor 1t houE b allo! rhe
podoN lo.atd m the bus b
drcoPs. dh n dm md d'm
nouncc wonr Nork,a corhlled
olr ptrricuLr applioibn unns
ihe slshrDd.prtd €.hniquc of
patrr dncLdph?m. i connolled
nounrc cn bc !*irbly nrEd dth
drtp loL'ls lor one p:n of rh. noit
in8 €4e and delilde nppl.s cke
{hd. wnh a onhlbd nouncc,
hrd to spdfic l]ordoc
oI 'h.
noari*edse rh. sparins b.rwmn
rceul.trY| A conhll.d floun.e can
b. devi*d 6 hll wih equ,l n,n
t. s.q the flounce b nd hbrn,
*h.ft lhc piurn hdlats b l.t
rhc nounft *anline nfth the
(d) h Fiss +r3.4rs. +20).
E nounc in r nann( 1Prrc.
pnde for rh. lppltidon Gdd
'd F1g!. r'7. 4 3, and r 9 on

77. --^-
.
\/"---\-
-".-
\
-

78. J MahingGode*
Hmdhfthi.f cdgt .... .... .... .31
lb) sen qenirs, kb dtich (c)
Goorr
obioun.ed 3cd4l- sedon ot
the foedis edse r ttli p re. A
L{1ll< rh. pdcn, fim nr
wrcnesid. oI r rabic$$
gdin, dr m& dt dly on tlrc
rlon rh.poinr on rh€ *n.
lowq .dgc lbr sodd
i6€don
r. udns a l)Ebtud or srdg
.omprs nt ro tf,. lmglh ol Gc
sond. drslt the so,ld
p*tem.
.ircle. Esdhac how hu.h 0f dr
.imnfercncc rh. godd should
add ro dr algc whcE tr trll bE
inined rc achrd. rh. dairtd
snaisht lb6. EbHGbEg 'L
wtd'h or lnc godd at ln. low
.'lse (nor thd sld hnrnin8
th.ddrL dlloauEeE.
{ba 16). Add , ah ,lldw
ina ro th. {nl8hr sids ol ihr
.ftulnscgmbl ((cJ s (d) in
Fis. 5 l). The p*Em is Eady ro
PRocEDURES
l For ech sodd, shd . poinr
icide tne pdh or 'ne labnc
$h.n fi.
Cdda
MII b.gtn i6
srnd. The dndne fmn poinr
to lo{s .dsc .quels thc lmgh
or $. god.r aid inclld6 , h€m
. lt ll.I ic b uBemca, con-
nd sch point b the lower
€dgefr'hasftjghtsb+lh.
pclpcidtu|iib&ccdgt,

79. 3. Cur our llc
sodd
f@n &r'i.
lolobs ft. pd.d of .he
parm or ic turtd ddin . Irr
c@ts ais of a sodet is slwels
mrhcd b ln. nFrghqrain of
fte Lbric. on ft. goddl vbng
ddE, ryk 6e poinr sLc lh.
sid. rannn6 mer ar rhe dp.
the sid! sntinB 5 u.u.
. Inb a 5€a oF€ned 6 sodd
bng'nwi'nnghdd6
toS.thq and .dse nrtchjng,
ph E*ch dr |ast nncf, oI
ll. sb ,b.r fte op.nh8
ro rhe poim ol rh. godd, ,!d
ph oe sidc ot dc god.r b
on std. of lh. op.nin& ses
dr! lowr eds., bscksdrhbg
{ rh. polnl Arkh rhe o$d
sidc ot lne godd b lhe oth(
side of dc op.ni4 wh.n
frnGh€d, fte brcrk b.N.m
rhe godcr slu ald th. sn
abov. shotrld b. tnpftAdbl.
((a) and O) in ru. t 1)
angl. f6n th. lqs edse
ro th.
SDdetl
p.dt d Bch
side ot rh. slshlim ltund
(7.t.n) squue or olE|ea
fte squrE, nrchin. snGn
sw down fte o$s sid. ro
b. slill trp @ lh. honanbl
stircl 3t rh. poinr. Rend.
rh. bctinsipull dr nin-
forciq nu.r b the b€ck;
,llo*mQ. Mrh nght std6
63.thq])inmgthdr.
porh! of rle ErntodnS
sm b th. goddl point.
and bGG one sid. oI fie
god.r b dr dd. dl &.
op.tus!pbddbdn &.
oths sid. of fie soAd b
dhh ,nd @* lh. bas!
ing {(c) rM (d) in Fi& t 3)
rrc $. god.rb s.m auow.nc.
bwlrd fte frhnc 4 ln. 6p of
'h.
sddd.
,$out
y (2.rcn) 6
2" (5d) b.td Ac pdbt, dtp
op@ (d Dd c) i! Fis. 5-3).
sodd md rL f,bn. on rhc sid.s.

80. NorEs 6 V,4Ri,{TIoNs
alrhoqh dingukr god.c ,r
Eul. godeG a wide 6 r nru cirle
.nd 6 lar8e a a tull orre {e I*i
bl. wh.n .xcQdonilly ltrsh, ltu
wid. s'a.r oI labric with $fffci@t
Uy b nmd o$ and dwry fFh
nddng .ds. s L prcj{c u.l6
fie lor{ .(l3. is eron3ded who
dr sodd E ddsld (Ftg. t4).
lflhdgodd t wld. and long,
brne dMppliotioD ror 1+hdE
b.fon L.minc to alow fte lt6 oI
rle &bric b enl. lI fte hbdc te
eii and loosrry MYa &e
eodd
is
lhbL b $s lron i6 satr u.l6
alov.d & sftGh out h€torc ln*!
don rLry tn. sodd
rloE Ib p.br
for 2,+ ho!6 bdor sdng tnb th.
aIF bitlubs ln. oqaneo<Ld
wltd pLdg , hd ftrtudt
fdr sod.6, bBidd lh. d.se of
cuse at fte ll@dns edsd oI fi.
soda de che.tsttu o{ th. lib'
n.. and thz .fd dI m .ds. finish
on dr. swe.p oI fie no*. "EdAe
hrshjls rE Run6' @ page 4l
dc.nb6 p6{biXc: Fd Llc.
sle sodes. dd b thse choicc a
de.pq,sinsl old flar hn,6€d
.rclnd rhe oft, p.rh.p6 Mth '
slbbte srill:tue l,id iGid. rhe
rhe hndlzt ^i4.de. B pan-
lir to sod€6.
!t s@ E a squd,
!$illy or lrgh., d.lidt r.nric. on
comft or the qure b{on6 rhe
poi ol th. sod.q.:ch side o{ the
q@re .qu'b rhe ld$h oI ft.
gddet. Fdi so sid6 dr th. squre,
$l.cr sn .ds. tDish ihsr lsvoF a
sofi, nuid no.r (F8.5-5). Afrer
A. squd l(F3 to r floatins pobt

81. *lI€re golld. on. h,lf rhr hbdtd
'hc sdn JFE Gis t0) Al'ludr
J nod{
sodd iumlida rurng
rod{rhe pftdutrs. r hsx
dd strusc Borh ndc ota mocLt
sodd
tJll oo thc bhs or th( rabrn.
Ihl!.Ir nq h{siq b !4 Ituh 'h.
F'955'squa|egafu|c|eal$2
handk'chb|edqerhefufuE.t
nr *Rnlrns lxiihe .!xr ItuE lhe
u!l1hlPcd5l,5hP$nrirsnMn
poi brr plic bddrslish mJ
Aodd rmli,$ on dircor slrn6
sd{ring rris.p.on (rrg i6)
arl,.d.ubu, add rcundhs dr
Poi
ol rrr sodd rqmrLas r{
aaD arLo\2n..-s r dr! rdp, bur rt5d
is i dnririvt h{nR of'ht h!!.
tun. dh! lodd
oPfl,i"ss d rhr
aunNs bN:rd Ni pa !n6 ifr.
sl,npsr
sqld hh,j. lion slidrng
btliirl rhe i6{do! rdrs (rig 5j)
the pdht at a skh, @) nave the
slashkredhelowgellge'il
(b) tMte the setun* tude a
need d6e dirpns to acemndate
eaet hsetlifi fhe bunded th al
Fb 5.s. a ctu 2'nack sa'tet Ftuth
dde l.) tn&dt6 the paht whete a

83. c.l:aT9

84. Systematic
Folding
,
,\

85. Prtsing Prlats ............ 39
sehmins Fkr .nd hd.l
fleG ... . . .......... .............s0
$ Pleating
. [email protected] Aaonlion
. MiniA(ordron Pledns... lll
Nor6 & \'.riarioB.. . .. . ....112
N..dlefom.d plc,rins .ns
elefuqg',..'.'.'''''',','',',tt3
Nob rhis ch,prr bqrB vith
B,ASI(J, hdietd by r gray bmd
loskd undqEdr d. nl.v.nr
. (nife
Pl.tu . Bd Pls6
Prcclduro...... .......... . .. . S1
Pl6r bpnikhinc . ........ . 9,
pka.ng . .......... ........ 9,t
unddlays.......... ........94
PeiL.r P1a8.... .............94
' se.In Pl.a6 .'.''.'.''.' '',','',','',s3
. IIF+Fold rnd a{r.Fold
. Rorrb{k cdddce Pl46
r carridc. Pkac.. . .... ..... ...r03
Prc@durs for b4
Pinch,
ertridSr
PlE6... .... ..... ....101
cobtet plas.. .. . .......... 106
s.h.rddge
Ple6........107
Dur.d .inddg. pl.aB .. r07
PLEAT BAsrcs
PRrssNc hEAr5
6€ntid toor sonerrmB het,
nsn, rnd prG$r iE 6 much s
psi dl plar prpennon * n*dle
md rhnd ai othd dna, 3rah-
bs rinishd 'n.
Jdb, Pr6dins I
dErul am'sm.nL dI EUins rotds.
Thc! mon ro pEdry rh. toltls
oI n't
"nd
plnial
])leb db dElP,
lsrins .Ma dran pDpd $hs df
dE coturs on r rbh. Aftq hsdns
lh. plar amnsmenr, , gdde
prusing d,h 5ten nek6 $. pE,
lmhly c6a For fi. ffnrl hsrd
pr6h3. s bud sud,e i5 doE
.m.idt fo! tal!. apptodons ftd
$e ffiw surtc of r nguLr h-
in8 bqd. PhpaE a abl. rop Md1
p./r,-g-hy6 of btihk r d brels
covmd \1lh shding, undqDrd
sirh dutuun roir. lI sing i ngu-
re rDrins bofld. hick ir w ssii${
i hbl. or ch.n ro strppd @fisns
ToeE[ihPrinting.rnN.
,[ piE,nd b3sds lnEds frcd
rhe fi6i
snup of plac b b.
p6ed. Aense rh* pleib d! lnr
'dshrnins. and ,rEnlry into c
.oftr posirion. To pnYEll th!
oucr rolds rioE revins ,n rnpn.,
i! on dc r,bic benuth, phrt r
sdD orhrcm !sp.i .!t slishrr
vidd rbn
Prar dcprf, dd lohgd
ih:n plst r.ngr iBide rhe nnd*,
lold of dch pl€L b he
rEed

86. !tus ir our, aDd 5prsd 'h. drfrp
.ldh Nd 'hr pk$. Pi.$ widr a
hor ron und rn! dol|l ts dry holl-
ins rh! ilon ftnl) h plac to 5$J
n$m dN! 'hou8h 'h. rolds
tum 'h.Irbn. to r]t o1h{3i r
p($ ddh '!Lo x solurion doar
u ( rl[rLerG Dddnr on top
unpE$ed pllrb, Ng t]t folds h'o
hxngiIg.oi,iEn8c'h.foldswl'iL€
phd,g rh€ €ds$ ro x
P.dd.d
Load iab pLnn'ng raclor rolds, ir
!ed!r( sddc t]t xEo8cmdtr b!
Novd sloq4l aborc 'h. sunmc d
nE Iabln Aro{ ro cool rnd drr
HfMMiNG F!,4T I
P,4nrrAr PrE4rs
whci rrl!:hs lmgdrv 6bnc,
Gbn. .rc al\qs snuiEd mobh'
sivdr uDle$ rb.xppln{on rnd
I
l.dilB ednBtn.ir nmke ir
uDrvonLibr., Nc rosr joinie
ronnirr nn
PhaG,
plRrt joinins
ssn dn rsu Iolds, or cmrtEd
Rnd fdi,l
pldr prt{m piobl.ix
! r! hmoi8 th.n .n s!
oprionr$h.nndlfsu, rh.*ao
rlto{rie (l) Pre$ thc hnlrft,ld
{an rlloNrnc opcD and nr Im'n
rh. loN( eds. h,hc d.pd oL rlr
hcn Iur up Lh. h.n and nith.
ofrh. h€m ro tree it rrom cdnhtr.
(2) lkn, s.h ptce oI trbri! ft{.
'lD*Ns€I!(sbge'hei
mrchhs 'h. h.n ldlds .srdr
Fom 'h. plg,s Nrh ihc joi,rins
h disn.d ro in i,rs rold Inn
rht *nn allolanes d Lsd drur
cdL.dgc ottu *nrllownrs b
rlr dqnh oI rhe hem (Fis 6 z)
rh a{ d ifipdrh! hsh
on ro rht n.xt sroup oI pl€u.
{r0.t0n) long, to tFund fte Iolds
Lhcy cool \14rco,ll rht Pl.ac
hav.

87. fLA T TLEAIS
lRersb"PhaPrcis on
Pale e0 )
.ea .^d tb) dip abave he hen.
i.rrs, 'h.r pl{6 \l,fr hnrirc
r'r,rtroa q! i| run ir! lil)
L tr.n 'r'fr iacddr LlL.
fhrs
L! inLnLd hn rhn Llffhrj
I iin D) o rttr.ilir Lh! rlNu
t
E-ilri
Fit 6 3 la) Anatnnr at a tat Dteat
tb) rwes at ibt prats. Aran@nenE
q,f rdiar.rr.01,rn

88. Fb 64 ta) rwa ba' da6 srh aDtet and hn{ rattu ede*tfthed
tb) tnvetud deal with Btaase paht bM
lc) tuite pteab k rcteas€ painb taweted tndsidy
lirlr rosdhrL b.'!.k (ri)
5urlgNdgrj'nf,[uout'
{!h pler (hE DW rold L a o
odd B!Bi' Eil, 5lisordip
btr\*o'|dldsdplkdi.Nllnts
soir divo (t rr rrs 6t
Mo larc!.1hbf.
'lnD,lr
sid. rd ph (Ndr 'h{ r rL
adjalor pLlaG Logu D , eu
dr d6ieirl rl.A! poN'
oIlh. ri nn. told {!h pltr
nn.h l.nldN ((b) r Fis 6 u
Fs. 61 F enonde pbd natkhgs la)
td tulet tatds, btuker tihes td ptacnent ha lb) Fd nteed platshs

89. bd[ (Rdf h xrnDlrs
o) F,rs+rir.h (d,
rkar roLd.
(.1) E(itssrrl, Lun 'ht tup
'a{
0 sm) t@n ttu tdlts thrctsh
pain|'andlh|aughfua]ayx|a
.@se the pte'l tde penaDedt
qq\!r
tl|f n, | $'Ds tsh,
f1)ld fli. h.n nro rh. fioarns
d'!i P{hal Plcdi u, p!3. sol
mcs as h,d lrtr oe ti!:r of
.s cltD'oo (( L b shhiif,trg
Grturedsfuhtri{ oo prBr 6
Noffs €t VARTATTcJN5
[nr. box ,i DwFd
ohr!{.
pl.rc 6Pleic lt ir i!o) d{P
," (r i.n) n,drlftf
(ar
ror lrh.orci loLd) h.irr
naLh ('h! mn{ rold) dtd{ma
d snn rnD'kngrhr{,
a a.nent tha tusted losethet lb) hEred pteal eenteted and ptnred ahel
r) badins the taa hes toselhet znd b
I

90. hon:onhLro\s otpl?,n or tanq
lo|(ncLrb( (Iin 6trr) ro prcvon
,\klL hpnnfnDs. .nn r]I ta!
sndurus rlfr si. \[h ,hc \mull
d oD rop (.i* 6 tol Do,blrtl di
lIPh'rlls'!341,|sLl(LLLIIlol
UnI.,lar 'L ov .lEnse ir dr
hLflt !i'H. r Lhr brd! or h {trJ
b4(o is idF(r Dftr fold5
olrh. rMsloLds (nod ldN{o
fs-rr+i,srh| t h'i! Db h!
lorL.r,hd sol {!ord ,hnd df
plurds L 6'n codi,uou' pLlia
rt" (^.nn 22" (56on) drli
163lu) lnlLl' ol i plctr( n,i's
rh. Mdrh olrrhL,n f lrD qr\c
pla, dt|Lhbr'r'(Lod q 111"
o 5.n) nr,n 'hR rtrnrdi$.
F96.9Dhgara]t@lleh|ngha|
Dolrhdo,,i/.drkdlrlglrro
Fa611|,ahEde|lFfublh
rrt Pd ter rhdq r a 5iiPh
lo{ pktrB No a kns,h ofhhr.
Nnhoul
Pio]
Dandrg r|jflfi A
Fig6laexp]ealswrhlhelwa
fupled'andpba|dephsslaqgered'

91. I
t
t
t
E
:
h--a

94. rnr€ or bd p *E rorm.d b/
kwin8 spe.hllr dBrsisd ple* sen
riotr roedheii Inve*ed p sE
Iom8d by ss is uidtrL:}s beeeen
5pa.1 y dsiqned ple! *ctio6
PARTIAL PLEATS
p.inB.There ,rc eo kbds of
Pdia
PRocEDUREs
En,blish the folowhs s6urc
b<nve.n pl.it (pl.rt,l.pfi pls
qrrced. ild61ftd) (r) tngrh or
edg. ({) r.ngd oI i dd
lloE
Ad,l r $onl pd(.d rohn md(
lay tb:t dupliln6 tu und.dold
.rEEid al dr sid6 or adjoinn'e
pler *.dons ((t) in Fie 6ll)I
(l) D€fi e panrn ro! th. shap.
d,gh y longd.nd much widd
$rn rh€ cltour 5h,p., 'mo an
'iEqS.nc dfknil], bo:, or
irvtrtrd plrib (3) PGirion the
rtrroutovd $c told€d plerE,
oFn ind pmdl Iol'rins guid&
(Fig.6 r4). Avoid lo.idng pler
un,l.t{olds bo dd* ro thc sid6
(t) cur s n$rpld{dtus
requircd, curhg abund the ou!
lirE oI 'he p,,rn or lolLqin3 a
rm.ine df & patrcn. (2) Mln
4ht sid6 h.ins. 5N 'hc pl6'
dioE bgei\{ oP.n xnd
sprad our o) M6uic 'lrc dePth
or s.h pt€r ro lsrc : mdch
wh.n folding md uniry se
Dleb in $e d6iEd rlfrrton
lzsE sch pkd dibugh sll la]es
(4) Ar,$ t[ppng sn' a[[email protected]
blrtrLsepoi'6.Pr6lhc
sim sl(Mnc6 lbsr ln.
Plst
qresioc opcn and [aL Itrshtlr
PEs
ln. pl.r' rards (Fig 6 r5).
(.) (b)
Fis. 6n3 la) PaM tor a Bdiatl'..at
at bax+teat mdenfu. @) Patun td m invetud preat unddtay uDt dupt
:

95. rr Nm loll!\Lrsr! qtrLDr
NoIIs €t VATiJIT]o\5
0 ar! or rfr rLPlord (tr5
nta a cttort tsee Fs 611tat lhe
I

96. nirgs .h9s'nlhas,ry
h]D.onsnJ. ur hx{.,lr
of Lh! oi&ls(rois &Ddnr(Lr
{d] P|d !\LtDsjdi llrB d ]!)
ltr urd.{o d' ?Lrcidf fuudDn ri Ll

97. I

98. l!.1
i{
r,j
i:
t

99. PLr.A.Ts
PRocTDUREs FoR Bor.
PrNcH, PiPr Olt6aN,
AND ROIA/1CK
C,{RTRD6E PrrArs
lLerld13{L.L!dud]rLlL!tr]P
rdrc.rprr5,r!sliLq

100. a
-.'l'
Fi1.6.2d la) t@dins tu'ted tu
@h$a|hesilao|echp14|
atawm. (b) senln$ dtugd
tue9thet s6N 'tq i6t atu he
b.r rlr plcxr uid{folds virh
hllrd endrhs iridble o! 'dp
pt@t: (d) erd be seIndary sean
lb) Re.brd h. pteat atta@rce, cs
\
(r) For s.h pLta flaren rh!
(2) rops'n.r straishr :m$ rh.
h,* dr lht p1d {h.c inE p.itu
ry *R,n ods, o. hcr 'h. mil(
tolds b fte lrb!. b.hind xnh
b. ol, ft ngh sidc or lhc 6hn!,
dnide re hudhs nrd$ 'l'!
bp Db pl.{ allo{R,res scna
rukrl by spr.6 bdw..f pl€*
lin6 on tnher side oI u.h
c{rD& nnLgl,t ilNn toN dr
,op ro R point nishny rb0! $r
lo{s .dgc ot rhe |kn
hadrog
clvlhthtIl8hlsiltdlsjd..
s?mlin.s on lnhr5id. df
och pldallo\d& rogdhs
rhr lolds rhar \ill be eruc-
rcd hb
Prei&'he Pki,s
{l) Forach pkRr. suhdivide
ldng r! rtul prnlkl ro, rh. pn
(2) collapi. Lh! phd allqsrtq
crrlng 'h. *.oidr *an'
Fp dse. ucr thc Lwo sJFs
rsdhr G) ceruEg 'h. loo*
nikhir8 nnislr (ro'r all rolds
(r) Ftr alh p1.a, diidc thc
p{rl.l,h.lold (2) Pushins 'h.
tqnal plers. rq! on .nhd itl.
ofineCdc[Plgtd.lmcdbylhe
|jlB
n' dr.lop.dsc, radi the
loldtd smngan.nl ro tht Pdn.
or Lhc rhr.c phic b.Iorc rcnoe
iq8 Lht pins. G) Ai tu b*q
sr.ur rl[ lbldin8 rilh nuchhr
nrchjns Lhar ro$! <h1ghr our
em o ln. frrrchcddd {olds,
or hand h.k r lolds ksdh.r
inia th€e pbats ad Enaw he pins.
lc)
ptaatina at ld) hand ta.l 2t the x pasron.
la) Estabtith a pn s8n lb) k dd

101. Fig6.^t"awedqdrp|@6'
'ng t fr$ polysE ffb.lffl|, or
i"*n inb rh. pltd an$ruc a
rclL ot ado[ht or odd sll|.iins
Ite. u.k dE qlildr. at rLc rop
rnd bs.. b 'ht rabnc b.hird ir
ddeIninrrysam(Fc 6 26)
{l).u@chPkr( h,gccu*
'hnds, ndk rhc L\iid dlBr b lnE
fi{ pann.l &r s€4 (2) Holdins
nn uP*hr, oll:p6e rh. pkii
dn.hinc r]]c 0ngd{n6.d 6E ro
rhe
Pin.*am. Fingc
Pns
tu ,qy
rolds d dre dd6. (3) tuDor dc
Pns, rr6ng No inrrio. pteb
rrh rom I suPpod fd! 'h€ dde
q'<ior pld trhnh .unts a6und
folds ol dr strftundiq
Pr€d ro
Fis 624 ra tm a taut.dd pir* pteat:
ta) centu aN hnon thd phar tad
crease at he sides. tb) fuh 'rE sde cBA hstda b k3 qimry ean
t be bas at bP Ph-w 6 @t
^a^d
,,_i
,4b b@ heqer pbeE dnd 4.o,e ba nnr t ) td.r dt D4 at Fa -
( I ) Fol .ich plEt, 0!&n rhc
'nl ebrr foLl ro rh. pnmry
rtam. ['ng{ q4*
thc rNo nev
(2) Psh 4.h of rh. side q66
.rarinc tour .qual-si-d ple6
$de {olds b rh. pim,rji €m.
F,ncs prt* ,he Dew ourr tokls
(r) s€dr E d.{nbed Ior rhe
(l) Foi ah pleq dili lc Gc lold
Mrh x b{ orPiG ${ p*a[.] ft!
{old. c) PBh fic
Pin-sm doM
@ $e Pnnary s.d, sPloding rhc
pratr a]loNad.s bdR.n lni
Pi!-
*rm dd d.
Pnmlry sn dr ro
'he sjds. Thr
Pl.r6
rom.d ar &.
nd5 dll be Nrr s ddp 6 $e
corr pld h rh. rop .4q hck
e rro inns rbrds re &. ptur)
ssn. Fis{ ct!€ il lotds bdoft
remvins rh. pins o) Ar the ba*,
haDd s.k rhmugl ,n $ne pl€a6,
ddbs rhc told ol $e 3mlbr
plet d ,ir€ @Er (r) runins
rh. lolds of ln. dd€
Pla6 dosr
b lne hednr& b& a.h ouEr
lold ro rhe pdmry san ar d.
sean, tnd tb) stand the pteat rhih E.tab@ be @ ateat atbwarc
lc) FemE the DLa tdt the s!tuc eat dnutu b thc tuad,o aad
stEr6 he oubt tdrs besitu tu tha' sean.

102. t. rbnh lne n6'dg rdgr of rhc
lngk rold hon. To h3ru, 4rch
LrInwEbaredor'g'.Jn']'.rt.
b,a of ach pla' b 'h. rabrt
Norls & VAxL{TroNs
con,parins rhr prcj(rng rleas
snul. bo: pl.eb rn $.1.*r
,limensionrl Nilh doubled boi
hny it doelr spaced. prc$nr 1hc
Rdlbr.kdnii'lg.plu6.whnh
look like snall. rsr. pipe o,Ean
pls6 oD hc dplcd Ior laish Iull.
o$ h 'hc hrnshc fabri. b.lo{ rhc
j.crins plcb sn bc .oDbined in
rhe sme h.a,lins ro Er) d. nruc-
d.pdloL lh. lotds nl.adb) rc
Th. pkar elloNinrt.an bt subdi
idcd inro 6 ,nmy roLds as r|r rab-
ft {ill sunah, aDd rhc folds can be
!a&d Ln dtp'h a \dl s'lmng
duDs6 rhr. fold pinch pls6 inro
3orl.! Phn6
\xrh rhe slo in!,
Idlds bdve! 'he plRE u!,rtuhed
d rhc rop. polyc{d lib0n fora
rhe pleft dur n$ Irom tht pimh
orsan pLca6 oar Dccd a,ldiioul
hlkins x' 'hc rop. b$id. rhe prima'
q {Rn rc pbem 'h. pl!-r' Iorm
ion f,on flopprlg loflad or Mb
blhs froo sid. ro sjde Fjns,PEs
'4 rd iqtr!8 lne 5hcMd
Iolds $rd6 $rt da'gdndr
pns.d or unp'sed orions. pro.
j.dingpr.,r hLr unnEsed fton
rh. spnid ol rh. folds, rg rd
$rckc r lol(G bdq(D h.adins
rnd hem inlo fl o{iru rcsdarnr
gou
'ne anngene kEPddli\
loo$ly wapped an,l pinled rcund
thehmglglJbdcs6Ewhd
ro bc hompnuos, sams Fh-
ins lenghs of Lbric shoul l hll oo
PRoCEDURES FoR
CARTrrDGa Pr,EATs
(rd rdllbrtk aairidB. adc, dr
ro"Prcftdurcs or plgt l0r)
hbn. b mnch aller ir
js plakd
Intte nl.Ris
phnnd for rht hr
.u*ing ptujr.lon for ach
oI hbric oi parq ro a plar
nid'h spi.c The lm31h of th.
,fthd hbrn b€tur! 'h.
l, IsdD,e dr hbt. ftqrtE
vidrl, rcquncd lor rlenlng
oeJ l!bn. { long 6 rht ta'$r
cho*n dqnh ol rlre pl.d hcd
r h6dLn3 s {i,lc s $. sby br_
'rhing 'lt rol, ro rh. backr reis
slfcr drc rmL'.k drh inkt{r'
lidrh srre or the narr *!{drd
mnch N'h dnl|ll.ariq! pln
p.rpcndicuhr innlin$ on dE
nay Dnr! p.rpendi.ulxr nnlhLne
lo{s cdgc or iht tunlrck (u*
sBh)
(t od (h) h r,e 6 2q)
AlisnDB Lht rop ?dgr or rlr hb
Iir 0 th! rop .dgc oL $. nrti
I)in mrch sch nfuhils lh. on
,lt fabnc b iE con$PordDS
plene,l hbric wnh a ,loublt- or
stqle'foldhenlohi!8,lk.b

103. .i.x,in3 ,
Packcd
m6 or fords drt)
: rln.k .dgc (t) in Fie cro)
lo, ofrabn! ro akuiatc fi. amoun(
pld a br suip dr tubri. 6 dnered
jn
dE lolloMng, xnd du.h ro r a.
n.sur ri. pl.4ed hbri. reded 6
aodrnglr,Tddnlhcp|66.
0 ) md rhe la oI dr fsbri. on th.
hsd,ng rrbalk d$ nrc unironr
s$ ol lrrridR'anrly ,Fted do6.
The tlishre bd{en rnc doE ets
&E d€pln oI r]t plsb {2) tun{u
dy 'nud ii and our of $. do6 in
ech w Gig. ell) md
saftci Fd!
ins $c tabnc do J.ely r,y.rtd
rolds G) sunding rh€ pke6 on tntl
sri . {ill. rqq n}: tuk 'he En
ot och loll rd ,rE 3ry 116r aroos rhe
roP. rhen I tht borcn Gig er2)
l
NorEs I VairATloNs
rs,sd or a n4i atigntd b $.
rop or rh. Dkxrd Lbnq bbn. m,y
h. plaEd ro r,\c lowd .dgt of hbnc
du' c{.nds abs€ dr plrd{d hb.
d6isn.d 1o ptu}d i lirle o. : lor
dder
PleaE
sby hbnc stbtrld hc
dromr. a wdr 6 funcrioni .
soJr ernils.
Prcds
rarL hb ,
dEpe iGrad ol psj.dhg our{ar,l.
rords ol rhr dhP. ro doP.. $chb
nc NaDe pu pl€' nui be
ntrlh widd $an rhc $kMllokd
p.r pl.{ o! lh€ sbr Tl[ $rr
shou d b. rpprupii,crr drP eid
rq@rinms arrdl.Pt(6,
dr spk h.ed
Plss shnnk b lne
\!id$ ot oft *in Lr lurs a dEp
{ne} beMcn rhc bulging .!16 on
agehdndg.el*|prces
adrd .c'|rilt. ,r.d6 icn like
' dsfiL ii rhe anndgc drSor):
The plcr6 xn fo@Ed on g:uscd
"Ga'hcdns Merhods on
Plse
4).
rig'342'T*ingheb$alb'fud.
adddgeplealla]d'basbybe|m
To uru.rh ,h. sP4ins oI $e lotds,
n*k rhr shr M'rr nrc dorted
suid€-
[D6. a dor iDr $$y idrh
jnb
a
rdld Gnridse pknrd hbnc bm.d
o I sq
Prcj4s ous?'d bdorc
tallhc in rivLh for& ro rh. floniDs
qte. rh. drhade G bcn.r,e Nhm
,ht 5br erdEhs : solid lom. I dr
hbnt ts kB ninand rh. pteb hnty
dep. l[ft.d anndg. pleaa m *lI.
5qPorirga shd upnghr or
.xhd rikc a shdf hor rh. ray
J'_v--!/__--]-^
1-\/-\--Y-\'.-/--\.--\
I

104. t
',1-
t!
'
t!
'i:
T
*
1f
I
!
I
t

105. a-t : I t---:-7-
!

107. AccoRDroN
PI EATS
d brdr, Ganns proicc ig P 4$
ro ds spred r ran r1 { 3!m)
BmF) rrr mc.h s y formed
HAND-FoI|I{ID
AccoRDroN PrEArs
.uLstrlul!,hf rmuDr of hhn.
,h. str?,ghr r!!:. dl r iifi inP oI
qa{lh.|oLdlthljluo
form D-, ford. bdN!o,r,.
rords L sb.rPlf qrrel (b)

108. spreid ofor. n.o'nir plc{
Ds Lhr rcp ol rh. pk&d rai-
nkhr. m.h o{r sch h&k
j|31|ELow{rdaldIthtnav
NorEs €r VARTATToNS
r/ (1r..t or sulL.r D dtp(h s
f.n m,Lr helt @rc nid noni
o lJgrr. or lbld md ss 'hE hld
Rlrr tj.ssnrs
lid cslh plq's
roLds nat be pdmorLr rix.d
!(d on pld.d hbrf n l]ql
rh.in ?nd on, roldhB Lmptrb {I
n. ts accordion-rleftd. th! trn'lr n
foLd r. rht nar wrh rqudDudl
spd)s Ger( b'8ukd crtddgi
rrong rhrad or !,d ruo'h!,ql,
rhc folds. rrk
thE plcrtr 'n'o .
Ld'!, sdr jdnns rnn |tcs
cahldled2|lhe|rpwhanback
cBaseszG|Jpsn.hed|aaslay
oplmDr\.lh€Lo\'fleJFd|
Fig635AIfuianpha*'|i!h|ly
PRoaEDURE5 FoR MI
'r-
AccoRDIoN Pr E,{TTNG
'h! tuLfr (R.r. h
'r!n'a
x
nloddns PL€iter od pagt 126)
ai,lt hp eJse ill.qt h)
rhtad vakf i,h 'loubll
lold rD rhd LB insid. rh.
pldinsrhr.d (Fis 6i6i

109. riqnmqr gf (F.rrins[Dg
b 4
(I) cu,a iDpe,)
lEr rrl
(ur plrr hbn! Iq
.rrnd ribn. o! Pra. 6 )
Fg64T,Handsrkhingasbyave|l
ofrh. rl,r! lrr rnrn rr
rrl F0[,-iic d]! L?{ rtr\
'lKiJ q trol']h..\|nd
sF.|].!l]'l'1\luLrL]s'
rfd cr rlr df N.r
Nrorls €t VARJArro\'s
'h€|old'r]IDfil]][\lllld||p(
Lh. r!rJs orr(hinm h tonn.d
rl.i
h hind foli$i,sagrrdor
t!I(b.[oAlshsmdkhg.oo

110. --
l:
{
I
I
i

111. WRINKLED
PLEATING
PRocEDLTRES
\!r rib( hps f ir n0)
n l'iir) \ijd! nd 'rrr
fi.( unl rLre,. .d hbr
r (jrrd! !o!(r (.r 6.I)
|ab,jcliqh|lyarcurdabnaml&
Ddlod) nur he onnft.n
sP ild .nr rft hLn. ! l,n, r E

112. t ro irbilie brcoinnick phring.
dbr requics (F0 aPnrnrne
dion rk{i 34. on pr8q Lrl )
innft' ofirs PrePJcarnN Modiri
cnors.l.ng.lhrtosul' Fdr
ric fo! hroomnick pl. ng: EnhE.
ro\5 li$Rd of rhnd srhfti,g
hbn. imnnd a a..h trLm!.{r
doN oI drc mlLd li'bLn utrboutrd.
hnsd ofbindrDs. ft t|t rorltd
Add qins tshrLy dh .ord ro rlr
raldlE rnd nnring
I rcc.du{s ol
llered hbnc into r ioll rnd son
Lod{lr ind kccP h a dntrs o.
\i ru o $c rtasa or wn r.!i
phrhs. bu1 rhc pllas cn l,e Esr
N rtphLri lhe p(paErh and
NoTEs & VARra oNs
such n5 .hnu sirr( and iishrNoglir
!non. rrtc bci Lo
qrhlr.d
pl. ingn{hdd5 Ih{ roounr oI
rld rullD$s apl)'opnaE lor r|[
ait{
PL€di,s. rhc sids ot
hmdnntr'pl.lrd hbnc m nor
tunnflbn pr.arcd fabic \!i n| tls
Pre'i3
rh. LIooNftk ndhcd
pioduc .i4E5 rod cnss rhn
coin.idc u]]l rh dh4ml foud
lar.nD8-bu subsequ€nr N!*$

114. DoUBLE-
CoNTRoLLED
PLEATS
PRocrDL'RES
l. sdd , pld qpc rh{ euiB d'.
iir sids of rhd labdc, tbloqng
dE lloaduE d$qibed for Lhd
9?.
orplsn$ (Prrl pl*b.ir
2. sFLiliI r pktu d hoth ods
Eirh{ udslhrnar 'he pk,,td
$!dg'lt.dgcbmd|trPice
of hbnc, or nrbilic rirhdur
u sLus befoth"nd, a rpprc
pni,. Id rhc tibnc ,nd t[c
rquiEmms of ft parricular
sire e,r,ls Nhame
Plerd 6bnc is
shtldd ow. sdlunddlb
iru or hdd hut b$E.n surioDrrr
in oic din.don or one .dgc si
01 ds6. or thc alc or plst.
rhEloldsithec{E!€t${dr+e
ol'ndM{.igh'dKlphb
kNs thc €ds of rhc Plols c
To dnpq rtu lol& ofl,q.s:I.
aPplidions mus b. lDtonhl
$rh rht rnieL n&s wLs Lhe
plscoism@sbbiledr*
I,
fte hlds or rdl<dc ,pplrotu's
pL'I $nh rh..ooFntion or llm
thbtu m LskJ 'o a tul 5hr
ndmmg* mirc|no\'td
slowly ibo rhc surl&e of rhe
hbnc AlloN b @ol ud dry
Nor6 & V,4&ATJoN5
Prd4
$tu'b6 trDt rcquiE F,
td6 (ll PkaG ronned on adiaclt
alsE of rh! hbnc. bEing Lh. roldc
b lmEl8e { d hgk D rh. ftnre
(1) Plub lod.d on on. .ds. ot ,he
hbric qirlr tolds $ar dwindlc od 'd
ndhhsn'hcorFTiEEdgeIh.
hisd panrm dd ne sl6h.d al
pl.n looioDs. IoLlonins th€ ilEnd'
d diedion dr 'ht kilds h.n' !Jg.
,d rd+, and spread ro dlow lor i
ptrdu ctold4 dcr,!s 6h Gq
diRdior adrptable ro pl.ahs.
dc! b "r4re E+. 6r'hsmg,
and opposi@rdsecarhdne,_
Nors ard v{i'idc, on pag. 17 )
Pnlscd foldr, .cr!ftiion plcft, and
Th. folds oI @5vd pLd6 pufi w
tlrlplsb nduc uch sidc of a
squa€ oi tian8le of hbnc virh rht
rords. thm brst $e
PrerEd
e+6 b x
s,tur or msBe Th. pufltd f,bnc
myb.lcft nis,orranb.tdcd
doM hh r @rirE s{d dr (ac
and grco*s sldi hmMlg ftlc b
'Furu\line
or pogc q).
or nutrcd
inb bi{uib (rcLr b "Bscuirt oo
Pase
2r3) vdtuli us
Pdlh Pre's
for labnc duddn i blsdldrrlrc
rhc rolrs olfd.d pr.a6 ft 5hbi
Itred hb prmaDcd. immoshlc
or l(N tolds, lxing pushs pLaG in
rcn-pler lik djrcdioc.Forqam.
,u.k wh.n rh br.k lolds o{.a.
ddst 0 h?nd lonfd erodidi
plos aE nreline5drhed tu r lim
pl.rmg .nrbl6 dl supponinB.
dim brcorudct, o .dirddn plu!
srrlu spRd our aid buncd i! L\c
.om'g.ios s'gs6t smock,de
$niL. rrLiliins. 5hiIt rhe d!&non ol
|ht|oldldrnk|6aid[u!rlt
N.&rk lonnl rr.ditrs
t !!iqur,
e! $iho pidous narkinss or
dns plarErioD. rlsf & bp ligt
ol rhr dFLhs
rah.n b dr bp .dcc
olx nrh nrlla. sdflmed n*
wdrkins tum rtu top do. pull up
a lold Nirh $e poin' of 'h! n .dlr.
8lotrid
rlr IohL to rlrc sq srh dnrl
{pRiakd bkksiithes Pusb rnd pdlL
rlrc lolds. r-inn rl,c lmsln od
pl6'in3 d,y b( adjanL b orc a
rcnnrN6 hhnc inlo a Jirr(tdL.
fro Exdle 6 drtk 6 r pl.r' 6m
Mln ror plctud lcngin or {abdc
undl it rcrch6 Lhc bl!c' mcisrir
t.xnlr lor s.un!: l'onddirionrl
rhro{h 'h.
rld'{ lRlfr b Uri,ts
r sno.king Phrd on pasr D6)

115. DOIJBLE CONTROLLED
PL FATS

117. I
I
I

119. '1S<-:-
--i
i--
'
1r\\!r\
ti.
?:

120. / Smoching
SMOCKTNG BAsrcs
FAaruc REeurED FoR
SMocxrNc
hbrn ututrd lbr ! nno.kDs pro
j.. rh'! a hi ly (lnLk gunl| ltr
sp{.d tr'(6nr)!pn1.Lurhrdc
dh ks libn. RDrh.pkr s
ori hli,jcli|(cfnisr phn
snL
hLn..{nar nnrMd nn rrr

121. DsLhf ,mqDr of hrntn..dtd.
nrs vor[id on a sni]r gnd
iLons rr r.rsrh ofrhr rr.rs
r|t rulri dn(lioul pull oL
rtv i 0, i silur! of rlt .hD
ird
MmN. rht rtrbi. Dbdh
JrEdi6 he{or oi :ftr 'n!rr
r$ft l.qLrr ind rhm for hh,n r,-ddr
UsrNG A SMocKrNc
PIIATER
(ro.n) rorg- dln dr lcnsll, or
]hIfh!lg$''o]|l]r'aLn.Jlnnd
,hl h rdle b,no!e rrr fab,i.
,1" GDn) d<p. rlDr,rr hrdkr,
dell.,di,s on rhlnurlLdtrq
orlk
Prar.
Al,o drlr.,dFgon
01!F) b rr" (r0r.n) r {.ond
trl P{rb! oI rhe fabr n of 6
rrNrd5 (l$d o,E od o{ rLrc rLrr6d5l
$hq or. fr( 0r hhn. Nr
|l'kPllrq'hNl5aos:'ht
llr dlttr.r Ld\!q' No r(ttlun

122. SMoakrN6 EMsRotDERy
5,,r( HE5
(moFd. rh! nndE hold tu Iold:
is$orfllhn3 Elrrr nr.h tot
inF rs osi pltrh (rh! o, |
! Lrfibdor ord uDd. Lhr !p ol
hdcrL(hd nrdrs 'rr' [n rdt
m' rL6$ bsdh{ (.ie 7 $l
6
Fb 7-3. la) Mavire tuM lrlde 2
tuae tb) strch)ng taa ttb6 toeethet.
and murs q
t ) to rcde rcrc al
{

123. Foqr@,mqo,r,. rhl,h d
v 4r( in!hi!* wqr or ! 'h!
triGhon€roN|j!!M!N.!
s$ll(re.j3hLbltl]]h.]idmg
$or/.d,,, nilrNsq{h{-
nn
I
pdind !!!drr (Fis 7 r t)
r'lol,drr(Iis rlr) al lPd
la'lzbxien65b4ightsil$
o|!d nd runrd o"d dr su'n
nooLh rrbu b,!d5 tu edse (Rd{
on
Fs$
17Iffdtrtdnns iP c
lrh ? nmt. rook rh. tunxl tur ol
Lhc qrsr Nr h.n rltrnm. (d{
prsc{r) ]\L rh! b$ ol 'l( rufi]!
uorr, dr .dgc opntrdrh
hennededgeald'e.|ly-snackd
h.ney.fubp]aarna'sarn4fuhellat
jdILghtr!Lighloallht|].lssh]l
dcrtLbd Bur ir rhe rab,r is ho!
MANAGT\G Tna
SMoCXING-PLEAT!t)
EDGE
5Li'ri:c a nnod{hs-rrdrtr rds.
or tuldr shhlnh.d ry rh. trn.r b
CRUJHED TJ TLATIENED
PLFIIS
be or sdh{ ns nfdns o hasdns
hsid. r|t Qd rno\N€ $'irh rigtr(
rhrkr aoJ ,n€ frur ,o\! oL ilolkd
I

124. STANDING ?].EAIs
'!q doubrcjord Lsn h dr.ds.
h.mm.d c(k. ovd a nar hbnc
e{.nsion rnd h.k rlre grco€ oI
.rh pler b 'hc labnc undercrh.
lishe,l hy rh. smochns (Fig. 7 16)
ENGLISH
SMocKTNG
5ha||wPL!8wit}rcnof3dkhiry'
EAtcityh:nEigshsmockig
PRocrDLrRrs
t. ro $rimd. $e ,mounr oI fabric
nquird, tri& ro "Fibi. tu+dd
2. Pler rh. hbncrn(hinicaLly
(EI€! b lsirs a snodting
Pi.r'rf dn pasc 116). skrp $cps
*r s and #i. .ominuc frrh
r. ro
Pler fte hbricbrh'nd. mark
rhe *roi3 sidr or 'he Lbrn wnh
: gid oI dob rlign.d ro rhc
rEEhrsnin ol wovm &bnc.
rh. pkadDstobc choc. in
aPPrDtrnn€ dor-,ukh8 ocrhod
U* a frbncerc mnkins bol
$€ hbnc. using a li8hr box
tor ohrDad isibili9r ald
. TndhouBh , dd s,o.il
placd on bp ol rhc trbn.
br mq h $e nFishrsEb
nirch a htric t$mson or hpt ro
rE
Plar
fords in hrk, bdind dr
fitr,I bv df req6 or smockins nirh-
rhc cEft nikhinspadr ol
.ddlodcd lralhD smocliru fore
rh. r4s dr 'hc
Preied
hbdc hb
shrped e,lge for i6 d(ohic
drrd. or shn and llnnh rh€ nn.h-
ru I* d.ush froh Lh. tubri!
.d8e b nlor for a nniehr *Rn or
FE v16. romhtutusbidtu
hdnd3&ch|helhadald.p]dbd
. Plirt a sno.l<'ng dor mnsf.r
sl].d ovs dr libnc Tmsld
rle do6 ro rh. hbric \dh an
Fis h 7 la) stenct and lb) saw
'tued tandate ut6d b na* tdtue
PaPd Pancn or dr do6 u$
ro mBE mpr*DB b 'ne
(ro {n.h Nnh a 1i$ue Pars

125. L'L!.tru!tr rh.L6. rnr.o,l
In r rrl tl) Lrr,a i rsl
rd lLddjui rbu. dn hLn.!
L|truJ tr h...! d lhr !ftnl
Fig719Ale|p]ea]ihg'sccu|.lhe
seans la) t4 tpo adkLent tn,ab
tqctheL ot tb) Mrdnq parc ol
th'eads ,qtte 3 !/e ataDrdpns
{n.,$ rrLr i.rt [{
I

126. I
I
l
tf
L

127. . hnp'oq* r daigd v,hilr
0orr'g1l'.trq'ju{rh{N Lhc
fubri! ^Dd i tor ro rool lnl dq
NorEs €.VAruATloNs
dxdr h rrb.i( ?nd :wtisnon
rhc n'b6 nLfircimLr ord u rrs
lu|j6 du,( hdEn,bi|P.d
squ{.d., }e r nno. and pnrdrc
urDlrldhdd (f_is 7lr) skrp
M{rbs dds o, rlr hLri. t dr
(r ) Nidr cYd,l)- pr,(n!J
3n3
hui
rlJid,. nrr$. .nr spofud
dBlg!!, rolls! a
srid
dntrl.nbj-
(r) L rrr {$r. or Lh! tublc b
$r b alft nishn,, bd. tor !nocL(.
slanr a dd rftn ,nr[.d on
Fpr
r|r hLr. oponrs rh. slrhA and
e'ni" (riis 7 r2) L i 'h. mdn da
ri. .nbroidcry nnd$ h€c \!r..
.abl. rh h,iqnr.h6. for rh.
.!b|cf lrdhlhtEnglj\lr
r& ftar. trlLhdtrgtr n los$ !tr,!
htishr r0 rh. d.i6 a. Ti.rd
rnis nrh ntribilr,! in,k oppo

128. rndrrmr dtsq6 for sDd{ig
.mbFidery !re toLmr, etidrNq
indM. pn,orrl no,ir5 and pr s
or solid nir.hru {trhD,h. rn(.d
bands thl ccs dr Dlr.G. ix,
nmd (onon €ohmidcq, nds!
s rich cJn br $lr hlo fher nos
E+i budnr 5'o.iirg ptrshs
rrrc.onv.ndos or!ra$i r:nglch
smocki,rs rr run6 lDeven
ftn
(ctur rurmMd and celtuhl for
Fdnr' nrd *rr suPpodiry con-
nanr.ni uhniqu6 Lhd exFil
nsultss.xdon in lLdE
:a,hcnrs
on iEcgur'r
srids
(F g 7 2r),$rm
uNsuar embiodel' ni.h6 ri
nnch coobindio'!. 'nukiPtt 1ub6
{i!h$ lni,bh rhrcRd kDDl1
roGt ,h6d5 on thc adr!., dbjtd3
lrchcd wi,r nn.hhs and so on
wirh rddv olrhs, tu {r.r
pronbs of rrr p or rubts. ton
rulrdL by in\isibresmo.kinsnn.h,
inol|ing w.on8 sid. up The
sio.king G {olkcd on rb&kof
,he
Pre6 Edr surh and nirch
dhd on rhEnolonrnr oL $t
PL.rs lrur (flone)coinbnirch
h3. lhidr Equnc thEad
Prrrd
md?itun,n tu hbric. B ulurble
hootron binned) kleFc
sno.kin8 ard nghl !J. shd.rbs
.atr Lc .o,nbid.d h the *m. pir
d hglch sf drkLdg,hd do$nr
s!rrhing raid down insid. rht
ni,rs, bkk ftF. and chril. *$n
arons sch grcoYe rrco md ro cnd.
gidov6. dhch the phfud l,bft b
: niihn.d My Fo!ddironal ri
ruE. rhnrd din.d dvr rhe ror ol
, ube and Pullcd nur baak rhe
soo.ljng tuquna a rar ft loss atl
sr'ini'g enh Embreiderr c nrcs
uh, rolds dRiqr br bNr of srh-
.Ed!iLchingrenhrt rh. n,ni
D..ohu! ! ,nkhDc !mb.o iderr
nrlhEd and
3rhs.d Lo{s. \!rh i
mdsmih repltus,he hild
Emhroid.ry drt rrdmi $c
Dlr,6 or eJl smochng Mo.k
sno.r'!B E a
PoPUL'r coundrdt
pFducd. ?l thonsh som. hd.k
sdo&eE hrnd c,ibrodd ord $.
rols b iugSsL &rhenriciq (Rtrn

129. ffi
]:N
5t
cL sfl

130. I
,i',
i ,, ,1;
i'ili',,
;i ll.i ii,,ii,li
,i;i, , ,l,llll ir,

131. ffi
E\a! !- 5 !:r-f,.NC
r,ffi
ffiffifi

132. Lt f ltl
I
iltiillN|l [ffi,d7
'ilrilililtt |l';l{lillrtr
llr /lJlllll ll ilft.lJ,lri:
ltrlitit|Lt !i/r4r,!!!
lllrlilllil l ririt lllll
liillrlli|i{i
i,l{,i(tlil
|l I l|il |,rlt iltr]lq
.i.rlrfJjj.I,li.ill'(::l!ll.]'ii

133. DrREcr
SMocKTNG
Fn3rLh smockhg hu! x(omP shs
PRocrDrrxEs
EnsrGL snocking rhar b.s$ on
I on gndded papE( prEpre a dd
prrm ro suppoi, lh. snorlhg
enbrcidery nirchE dos€n to
nndurc dc hbft wrh pl..b
(refer h "smocliiru Enbrciderr
s'irh6- on
PasE
t27) Eeh do'
npro.nb tu pdk dr a fururc
Iotd and uil be d.ted up br a
sdrh rhe 5pe€ beN€€n dob
Gplcs /. (6inn) ori4" (r.it
{ide re usull} rppiopnde)
shigh' hdfmnl 6w! dI doB
iidi.tu m.hnu pnhs lor lDn
eycomb. surfrce hon.Fomb.
slths. DGCns rhaundudt
\qvr. reLLis. snd diarnond ritch
r. Mii[ rh. , ish 5idc or rh€ hbdc
virh rhedor I)dEm.
alisrhg ftt
rc$5 fr'h 'ne nGish'Ciin dr
eovd labLn. B.Ior clDosn s
one of rhe Iollo n3dolmi*ing
. ri$n drsm,k.! srbon
rhroush fie Lbric Usealigh'
U* an kh,ped rul€r ro spor
Pnkiqtrp&.bdor* n w.ft
nd No sdF(m do6 Ircm rh.
eEe roN (ou ine and €ble). o!
(wivc md mllb), m pu[.d uul
and bgdhs to ftre tht tube
J!d.ch,!n€Lco]nP.sitionoIlhe
lindyke) Euh slack b mah-
d dot s.pahddn {F g 7 25).
F:s. vrl
l

134. NorEs €'VnRrATroNs
obnous dilld.nr *h.n .ompmd
unnjsEkzblr plecd subsfr dure
sno.kns end, $dtd arcn idmn
virh z snd-b6ed
prEm
GhB:
haG. .hc!k. 5Pdkd d6icG).
rolde pDd!..d br r6rE.d dird
nodrrg B nuch difidem 'n
rppunncc dDn G. rippl.d p1.d
ins ot EEsed Erylish smockhs.
tuYeu.d dnfl' loolkig G ftdked
aM nnlhcd on d'. *mng ndc of
dE hbn. Brsu* of rhread !*ibil
t+ Notd Eis 'he hone)Ionb
FrPedndrdl {lner fld.iri8 E
sorLca on r gid oI uNvcnly
spacld doc. vhnh mer or may nor
Fiq. 7 %. tuEycatu sMins htetpretdt tot &et n@kins: ta) Prck up M.
b, rny sr'bh6 lb) Daw the dob
taeeth{ M ptted th@d. (c) hen he Mrh hb the kbic d dat 2 4d btks
ridnd rlr dCa b i paddcd
sul'rc.
scrirrrrer[bg n h0
sh.p. sram wnh an non hdd
'laDasing
rM rno.hu Plsrd

135. 'i
f. (l\'
'' .,
I r., tLrt, |r ' I itl' r ' lr'l'r rll \' frrrr , i \'
,:r1{ jl{,1::rllr:Jlil}ill,v#lrl;1r: Jljlrllllll'lll1l}ll ::',11 :r'
tirtllil,rlr uiLrl/! a' l, i :
Tilijtliii;f i/ffi liir t rt
lv,l,t/lll+,9#l#XI##*#i{{:I{i1.{1i1"*r.ii
ltt 4It
tt uvu Uagpt]/ltt/A!J:!lLl!t,!t
tt I
lt:1t1.1.1,1.1..,t.:
jlll.:i j):lll:{Jr:/ili'.+i{llil jl.lrlli.:it{
r:,1, .:,:.1.:,ll:.'.li:liti;:ll":,'':l;lllll::il"lil lri :{ : i,l
. ,
. i,.
.
"f:li,.,!11,,.,.'r:i11: li,.l,, .l
L-
'L-c
ffil
ffi
lrl,jrlijliriJrrlirl,,lr*f r:l;llhllSi
$&3firtr#rtrffi

136. NoRrl ANIERTCAN
SMOCKING
PRocTDLRES
t
:
:r,
7
dtirrrn,grrLfl (Lhr 00\{
l.dnnnrs(hg r 17) Flr [L
.f drr(lkdnr.h
(hs i r3l
l_ll.-!t.l
..-;i i-t_l-l
. Lr*i_l-l_i
G) Bnng he reede tp at dal 1, 4&
tp ltot 2 'rd 16) rclrtn ta ptk q dol
I G) Ptt dak 1 aDd 2 ta1ethet PB
pickUpda&12'3'3rd4wrhd]xhes
ba*etranltandssue h a tiry.
tl-
i.,r_l] l_- I
;/-

137. Fn
lhor Lh! smclD8 nrkN
Norrs & VARTATToN5
uD(h r& nrtd tor Dakirgri,h a
endoldoEllltlclqlthDd
DBlx chNr dr@mE,hHd
U:lii$:l*iiili
?
'. -1,"r'r
l\-r''f ) .,
'./
lll^!}lllliltll.
'i rllat
r, .' . a r.Y
t'1 V.,','r''e
\i |l. tri/
$wiigl
NOiTH AI.,]ER CAN
SNlOCK NG

138. Fdd, e464as
snd rr6a
rElr rdis d b,4 dcpr
RTH AI.1'RICAN
5t10cK NG

139. ITALIAN
SMoCKING
CoNToLRED ITAUAN
Sn ocKJNc
dirld$d, lohed Por ror su.
hbr. r&!,hcbDrfn Lfts
n:! :l l,; _
;t;
i-,:
ri::1r::,
-_:-:,: r.
==--': t
--i
l!
pznen Bpeat. tDoded tha ate vidrne natkinss, nat .tbhi@ intticatqs )
F!! PLus r,,(i rq!) k[ !i!h
,sdron,Lrc nir.r.n tlmrd

140. PRocEDLrRrs FoR
SI{lrxrD lTALraN
SMocKINc
L Copy onc of rhc dcigns b
ris 7-r0 on sridded Frs zpprc
pmd) sdled lor lne plEdrs
fold whE drE sdrhioa is 3a,h€ni
L v'k doE on rhe risr! side of
rh.l,bii., rlignbs 'he dd ruNs
wrh lhc $nlgh'€rin dI wolctr
hbric. cho6e fabric sle mrk
'n.
Prpd P{ko
dlb br
dhud' ft rabh.. u$ s rishr
Mrlt do6 rhroqh punduE

141. rnk dr ddG rrur lnrkt up
ron plur r" (7 5on) ff qch
b. fo h. flord 3nd 3tL NdL
dl!nd. d.d,t
']idtr,l4J '0
iattutr !r .{ryft,c
srcuPhgoIxntkLlidos
trYo br $!.
Pus
r dr.^ libi! iro
irnll q, rrN lhrJ,ln*d.
NorEs €. VAnlArroNs
rudinnlr Lh, rahrsNi ror
ipplr.d ro I yanctoaunconnl
or rrbo! (Ers r
'r,
'n Rqu.d
lorsNlkuq onprs.Ir5) Fd
daiA! o! prpei ro otkd !!
d6elr :i!c.d dutr rh! noG lrlDr
DarNun urd-shDd rh. mdr
6 (Lim) Ihturddnrlndhld!
rcdL. ard nLtrlr Dr,!": l.x!ry a
r" (7 5!m) hil oLh, {d ilrr ,lr
aDd ni.rr rh. r.{ m\l ftrh0 rrtr
u,! !!n br uodoni for nnu,. hnn
thrsd fo sh,n.d h]ntr sno.hins
b&on6 a i5ibre
t]n of I r rir
ruI\iln cdi(dionolrlrpl.rs
nifiq LhaD .onhutd lno.krns

143. TucK BAsrcs
EXTENDTNG IHf
TucKrNG FAaRrc
$'tuching
..ihL rn.|s
JJilr,ls cotNclrNc; ty/IH
TI c(5
u{,h hr rhe {ord osrh..dg.
Gnrinu€ rft ruckirs(Fis s tl

144. Fs a4 ta) fuckhe cadhued ac@$ F€vius sans (b) r@h@ qted
STANDARD
TucKs
snndxdtu**ansxe*ci8l[a|d
rewrfmd mqe d:n f| pmm)
fud5w6Nofodlh:debyci
5E1M5 PEIIENDICL'LAI{
IO IL]C(5
\o! ftk.d rh diliitnr rnanet
L !r
ouLtr@
no th hlni. rhings.
ni arbdrins nr c(.niotr 1o rh.
\un ntrk fdrds pbjrd or a$ lne
(rt Fhtrdr rlr lu.k rol!15 l,h6,
nror ar $ or l rrs r.L.d and

145. c Fjsuic lne brl 'mutu of faL
fic €quicd for fie tucl<in&
a. Estblish nusuEnms tor
rhe vidtl, ot a rucl (h. epec
beN.en No adFqt Nch
fit frrhin rht blgtr n.mn
Fi$rc de tobl anoutu oI ht
PRocED(nrs
r. Erimderheamou of fabric
nqdrd ror ruckiDg lnd dn
ApFl) one oI rhe following
rd dsigB nin urcqur Eck
widdB end spaang. Iold prp{ ro
ty our difl*rr .nngen.n6.
M6urtiEFatofthech6n
,nangmdt b.IoF ,nd :I?r fold'
hs. and alcuhc fi0n $rt bsis
1 En,blish mssuftnmb for
th€ riAi or a tuck (he specc
ba,{n ru.kilmanl tuk
b. tud @t hov ruy s.k d[ nt
frtu tu 6q{ [email protected]

146. ru.k. mmsund f, om fold rc rold,
rnng. \vl'tn rtntred tu.ks r.e
doubltd rhcn .ombined
qid B
.qurl rh. Nidrh h Lh.Iohulrs
(Fiss 3,r.3.r0. and 3 ll)
hghr sidc oI hbnc rhd hs b&D
o' ro sic (EI€! b Ex'udine
r}r ruckiig Fabn!' dn p.sc
1{9) [\q tukhdelolllin.
c{tr.dbcn*ssosdthl!8
lins rbd arc Fdrh.d rdr (m
ilg (F g. 3 6) bur i,arki,,g all
Fg33Band9filg||Ck'fuha
p@* and b irdtaE 11) th"
Mtu d the tu.k and (r) he e
|aldo||hep|evla6lysewnfuck'
For nrhire s$ing. (dtrtor
n€edle dGune Imn rh.Iold-
cd .dgc by aljgning rh€ Iold
frrh m*kinss on $. irtdl.
.llow,n.r guidc, lih msk'
inc upc nu.k to rhe bed oI
rhe nFchhr.
q by 8ng (hc
nsh' edg. dI 'h. pftstr lod
sev tuc's ||jth a stabhB e kat
bp {h.n dr ruckis folded
lor *aniD8 i{Fanlin8 L
nesry r arl (Fig 3 7)
oprio.sl {hm Nck vidrh sD
b. .onFotlEd trth r *Mng
g,rC. *h'1. hR.d s$in8
nd onunMllyfrd. to.ks
Ddbled..nd{edced 0cls
neEd so nnlhing lin.s
(F1g s11). For d,pp.ry I:E
pitv.nt hbn. fter rnd
6suE r.uGsr who 5s ing
Itngrh or 'n. hurly I'dd rold
ovftrh..dgeofabbleG€N
entrd ruc[s lighd) ) Pi! tne
I'y.6 rosdher aid nn.h srh
avay rrom rhe rucr *!n b
indtd.d, h:nd s$ Nith an
bdrd 'rkine
B,ugc
(F
e, 3 3)
ll
''.',
FIga6'|h|Dcksbeb|eseng
ru.k on rhe rop rnd bonon
dgc of th. hbnc. nrk,l8
wirh a hbdcs ednlPpdine
\i$ fie rule, aDd irdnak
rold li!$ vlrh dc.ppsing
ins{r loll ber\en rhe e+e
llor onbr.l tutk ftr{
very lishrLy) Alisn tolds ro
the sht+qDi! or soE!
$me mnnq bur drh diff€.
ed marrhge Gio'hft .dlo(
longo baning nn.r.s, or
achnftlh.) Mark t
{i.hing lin? b rhr 1.ft ot rhr
lbld lfHn. 1inc vtsible on

147. !.win8-a! sscdgc lboq atr
.ds. l1ldrci or an adjGrbte
blindhan loor k..p phnud<
fdr, q rds. rtE tu.ker
d rh. srq.d pr65r rod
9!€ ]nafu'u dn. ,nd iP
mrkrrgs *hrd {}iry rI
larh 'r.k b.foE nanirrs ro
ss!: Avoid sn,$d8 tne nrk-
irs or bsdu rln.d! Ln ,ht
ondarl s wdl6a
Pnma.y
. Fdr iI hur cmerd tu.ks.
ro prord tne Irbnc. Tun r
rucld Lbft ,o rhc b,ck :nd
lEsagainoniprddedgl.
hr Lo
PEs€ryc rhc dNtr
sio,ulrr of dt llrrrce folds.
bc,w..n Lh. tucls:nd rlr
hbnc b.loft piasins G€rs ro
. Forrtnt Gdtuck (nu r
rhc belorc pnsin8 (fi& 3io)
rurk. &i,s fte ft,td lir ovd
E *con.hry {DrLhe. drcn
l)r6i'g
(rig 3]t) dsapn
nsid. rle rucL tu& ro op.n
s(un rr,. rrk nnds d €a od
illovinc: roPnndr dden th.
niddh olrnbnd and doubted
Jor..nEEd tucksbrr rcldh
mmdcd tor ddublcd.,nd len
kred tucks. Aft& LdPinlhirs.
6 Rtfcrro Ertndins rh. Tr.king
Nolfs I VARIATToN5
our r rhud ltuh dtr Ndn df Lh.
l:rbflc ru.o fie hbn. ro ft. bKk
wh.n dsnng rolds pno! b
*nchb8. ford rnd pr* cvu th.
(hLshr eilsr of z nnp oI hsr.r
paD& arLgn.d ,o ,hE sraishBGin
bd w{r oppdn k po3r,o! m{ks
5!{e rhe *:n,lins of sdja..n,
rds ar le-, a prc$crloor sdth
rpi( a m.aucd rrom fie n{dte
b dr kfi. Foi rh. hml pr*ns.
/isn rhe folds or hPecd tu.ra
ro rhc shiqlunin dl Lhr r,bdc
erc! u,oush rhc hpmn3 *rfrs
srnDr. ei'nr arrnErnu dr..!dr
rtun u.k d rd{ (refer r, Fi8.3 4).
Th. sfddrh srruq nd diy
dtmanG €xad nen'nn8 xd
rikdg. accuEr fotdins. 'M
*m$ nnlhcd plunb4rai8hr ?
B.lol. ndkiry, h€ t|t8€in ol
roED hbric and nsm prae
spftad rhe hbnc orc R nrr,..
rsB?r ,ha! rs l€ngrh rna rddr aM
hold ( hur whir. m,king. us,, s
e.iddal cudng bo.d fo! iEishr.
n.ssdni@'op'iomlfdnddslol
lold lind ndkhs rhr mry bc
i
t
t
L
5
+
ddtituctuowtu3ffi (c)
@ anq evle atu (b) @sad with tE
shb||dn)kdfud|fueb5ltnry

148. gl.IL'!n'$illpudlllo$ul
rlkrd d$iq ippsr5 uadrleL
fE$o
roo, rLrn( tab,ns ir. trd
s[ (.,s 3 r1).Nn D(dLr
lhehalehthe|irge|be|a|e1sednE
rFLs 315) Pr l!.G ro f.d{n[
Fige13,Fabftrcsh4edgihds3

149. .F
FL
l:
ii
l:
a
F
F
I
E
!
E
I
:
1i
fi
ii
,:!
I

150. l|}f
::ri
::11:
illll
t:
l
I
j
l
l
i
l
d
I
I
I
I
I

151. I -1:-
:,
Fr,
L
t
r
F
t.
i
F
r
F
t
r
F
I
I
a
F
l
F
t
I
t
Fii
FFI
FFI
EFI
E.TI
ts Et
E.
F
r
F
e
E
k
E
F
E
I
I
t
t
!
t
t
t
!

152. 5-IAN DARD
-I]CK5
|]j;nrrrtn{i.?rEieio:!,i{t
lril
*i
gl
t
il
1..
'i.,

153. .i
I
\\
I
I
i.
::
ti
l
I
t
I
!.
tiiftl
il!il1
ltilii

154. i;"iiiLiiiliA
..Y^i(1. j,
CURVED TUcKs
PRocEDURES
sund{d rucLs Lhd b.sin on
Phn rn artr4.hrlr ofcuard
i..o,nndd,r. dr ruck. ldd rwo
,hc lcrsdr o! Edius or th. hbi.
whd rurqt rf,h. rab.ic is !ur
Fq €ch (u.k,nnk a fold l,n.
Rnd ri uPpd ud lq{ sanrin.
id(dI$enenqorbyn6ul
cEa* Ed' {ord rtu {nh ftc rip
lincniih nning {ch!5. o!
{rh6 w(h $e ruck fotded.
on lh. lowd s(Dlii. q!
m$tby*smsr udl I
Pin
o! h6E rrrc u.k smtLnc
Prls
beroc
Pmccdbs ro rhc
NorEs €r VnR oNs
The hLn. bc.vrtn .uned r.ks
shourd L!
luclFGecaDd,ir bc if
d uDps *anlint or.kh ru.k t
s*d sroorhLti Thc llN oL .uM,u
'ud$ ii pro8esirq rhe,mounr d

155. Nde Pr r.I .rr.,&P o pir t:
];:
:::
i:i

156. SHELL TUcKs
PRocEDURES
shndal Tu(k na brgrn on
2 r, hxkc nachile.nirchd shttl
o*r+e nirhi)8.
suidirg
dL! ivings ro rhc iighr. r jLs'
mG$ the edsc Jusgl. nn.h
[ng , rh,ighrocd b|non
dbrind ftk ]/1" (6om) ro
Z" ( 1.3.n') rid.. Mxrr thr
brinA ,h. ,hrad ovr th. Lu.k
i eqls spaccd ar 16r brd
rim$ rhe ruck rvid$ aDit. To
hbnc ff8 F.r tvo, shrlls.
hrk NeE4e
Poi,s
,irrr
sn(.h .nd pin 'lte Eds$ of 'Lr3
sh.U rtrckd l,bh!. iisbrsid. up,
Lo a p:dded su,-f.c., and ntxn
,h the non hcld jun rbov. rtr
rulkf8 Alotr ro coot md dr
NorE5 €t VARTATToN5
n,adinr an lloduc Hor.v.i
ddE hd€ aDd
sndur.d,
(nrred.
dr kPrrcd &l5 eo hav.shdt-
$Rlloptd.dsc b) o{dlge {i!h.
irs:rrr |lt,ucls [iv. bcur
rame{l inb the hLnc. Fahcshell
ftks,r
4
uchin€ ntrfes oo.c
rhc dn ctu$ lor lund siLfud
rhdl luclhs aft sl)dtu Brins r
,.a tad. b l,,tr' wlidr 'unB 'hr
Iold foNnd b imke $t slishr nn
wnbrhrnrl"(ll!h). Lh. ftJldr
ruds,n,r- L. $llop.d udr i l.{
roLd.{hth hrlp3 ld
B,Lh
hr
'h! oYsedse nir(h$:, e roo dort
'o8dh{ fo! tu dd'h of rhe ruck.
levd rhn. ltn b hnd rlupptu
(scr phoG ofshdr ruck on
ovcdg. nnlh s rh€ ddrh
on rlt tubn., ford 'od $en

157. I
rcI lb!',!J!) cu' d
{!h kk risll siL. o( nl
CoNToURED
TUCKS
'"(irm)wdio&dedsssr
PRocEDUTES
dr roL Lr'! urqLLsL !,rg! !r 'hl
Lh! tulr 6 fdJd n{ 'Ni'g)
I.
t:
t.
I
FA 3.21 f'e .nbtPd wi{r seans

158. NorEs et VARr TroNs
ruckhs prllE. (oGidft rh. efl(
'ien6!o|ad.signwh.ni*
tuk rols aod dv.ilips, nrgcc t][
combine dilr.rtn' .dntoubg pr.
$i11 show u!h$ ,ht ,ndum oL
(.frDk fu.tr,whi.h look * il
opdliDgsureotdru8h,bP
hy{ of fabft 10 .\po!. .idrhcr
or id.nlra[y conbuEd trdG 'hr
md in rhe cedf sii.d lryholc
rcqunc no h.kl
Fmcd
h 'hr
.ombinarion nue be exL': r*d
lu.k or ettual widlh ,fd .onron.
lDLc ruckb8 prEr on 'h. rold or
a n.ip or pip.i (d. Iold b !vl,oc
lne Luck will mfttr olen rhc ndp
b kr Cr k.l[olc d6i8n Ah{
r!ck, and pns,ng rhc lol& k fac
.ich drhd [ind rv th€ tulk5
iosdhs rh$e th€r 'otr.h unns
d(oc'ive o. irusibl. !ii.hing
sdri' rii.,'.d .m.o!r.a &.Ls rrc
rhrp.d ris the tu(k5 hRv. b*n
nitdd A bdrdd ollhmd rc.
venB Lh? ot .dg6 of $. r,hic
ltun frling Dd ale .dph*t6
dE conroucd pron|a oI rhc ru.E
,{fto rGlins Lhe omNr odo tb.
fronr of i fi*[cd tuk. !u' o on
dr.lift and in nn.h dvd ]n. .ur
ftr ncrhod: FoUoN thc ti!.dour
linc $itL $in sdrhing onovethc
hbncbqond ft. sun lrchd
conbua bj .uning fmm n.!dh
hdl. to nccdL. hole dln sd{I.
Fige24'conlfunngheedgeala
Mkhin$ w1G r dccdon oI dElq
nivt nitchc an b. pro8hnmd
$am|ortrLfifringaftcNtrd
rig.s.23Dlanond8hpedkeyndes
Mbdbybow.|yihgllbpahtso|
lwD zEzas.arM tuk beethel

159. -_,,l _- __. _
. *j
..-*.r
.-:.. -

160. l! t
(
(
II
{
1
!

161. )LAIIJED I IJ'Ks
(i nm) w& co$.(a! reguar
PRocEDLnas
(r rr)\i.oinrdninLo
n'rk (\o5rsh$u conr
t{rlt rthFrlr rnsotr
?djacnr tud6 ro o\d'lL
rrr aord rigir rp rD dr! rd
|,j ldNlq,,k tli5h$ (bl
hnL(iu' bu,!ft Ll{ tu!L ((n
L!dh racLds ror r
Frd.d
nf!i8h, F rrcm ,rrr fold md
unhn, erTely qaed sDiE to cB
NorEJ €t VARrArroNs
b
Fonn
i{ an .{n bn or r, irr is
N'h sl6hs rtagq(d i,5u((d
Fs j25 rd hake shads teeh: t3) sp8

162. sl,:h6 mar nop shod dr rh. ltr.k
s6n. and lne Dgl.! dr 'h. poin6
Iabn..an L€ pilEtnuftd rll
ow !i1h rnip ftLnaql rurkr co(r
ulprs.d blind iuck FnryE 'h.
tr'(*sand. ifLhc tuhi! !,1!d{n.
aubnniary sh xnd spin dr i)
ilLnbh rrd ldftdl'M $il,|cd.
R {rhdtrB. tu.15 G sprn
iro rhRd.fioc lodpi rl'd(l
{ft fdl& illgn.d ro r|f nnqh'
gn,n, tlNads,re pidad rdJ Ptrlldl
rhchdp ot, Ld,g trlrdl. orpi,
B|tor unravtr1i,,s. diyjd. tns'hy
.LTs r(r.ndtulr
Ld'lr 5!rn.
Afts cigng, {Rbrltc virh i $n
d|n,ifug:ig:agnn.hit&los
,hr basr of r frirse b rrctl
nor unnveLlnre (Fq 3 r0) rn.ks
,u.rd hbn. nnrengrhtD.d u'h
li 'u or p,rs-on irtnalin8 1o
tulrlledlnng. trrks $c lnnlcuLF
lr rft!!v. o fiI,n. w rn
vrry rth shark! tdh obnsdy
th,nrwli@$rud! drhx|]]n.
EnNr v'ihrpdl {edC* ol labft
Isr tu ru.h. rnd fol{l s usull
(Fis.3-ze) Innsd oI zisa&ing.
FE 323 skshins wirh rcbhes b
rhr N.dsc i sid. r|t rtrck tube ro
Iom tLt arsh (Fi! 3-2e) Ladds
rakinA .arc ro |r-tft hbn. dNads
Fg.s49shapngsha*5le|hby
pushing|h6slasheded94fuehe
rtntnd nkks *sntd do$n t
bcIF sDpping ,lk! Lh? rring.
Isn loopd b lalcrcd lI rllc rrb,n

163. /. //
,-
./ ../._
./, ./
,_
/. /."_
/. /.:
/,
/
_
{/

164. SLASHED TUCK5

165. CROSS-STITCHED
TucRs
wne drthins th *er the 6ds
PRocrDrRrs
r. tuvrw Lh. pro&durcs for
L rnablnh a!6e olto.k.d hbn.
. For undurado8 tucks, droo*
pin. !pk.d. dr brhd rud6
low ndgir ngulirly 3pkcd
Buidelin$ mnkcd mrh libft
. Foi unduldins dck, alrs
rcrc Allow sumdmi sDke
b.rwen dFcrr ros of.rcs
c\€Ee djEdonfr onr dng-
s6s
uP th€ fabnc Gig.3 t1).
. rbr howaied uck5. Provide
r}e rolds oI rhe cenbEd Nc|.s
'o br pr[.d up rDd bcked
rred r.k b'o bouied ruck
*ftl,ins, hcl d. lbtdcd .ngc
p.ddeil board. sd rh.
Pmj.df8
ro cool $xl dry beiort uip'n
Norrs & VaRrATroNs
'h.3per n&dcd berw*o rhc ows
o1 rop$n.hing ro rep lh. hbric
fld Unduhting d.lls rrh :
heishr wheE rh.y cha4e dnrrion
'haL rquii5 'hE depln or the rucks
rhc hcishr or a bow u.d u& u a
lirle ls rhnr h3ll dE {idrh olrhe
allowrDcs .r dr dr(G oL ln. tuls
To make ft o osov{ rop*irhins
ovcdlldsig!.ukld&oRdvt
iiLch vhen seNins UneveDlt
lrun &. sndry panllct and ngidly
n€ishr, .fr.nvr ly partn inlo.
Dal. loo$r app|natioE oI ro$-
bgdh& inconspiludtrsly a dn d
bsdL{ ritb boq-ri.s oroma.
nfthl rhrdd or cod ardallor
rhemdsrod,ngle For a dsign in
ruds on lh. rop ol ,loubhd an,l

166. *ffi
ffi
w:
til#llllNt,
{w$\[
#ll#dll##

167. CRoss-TAcKED
TUcKS
PRocEDURTS
1. R?{r* thr pio.tdufts lor
sundid li.ks rhl bcgin on
rh5. , rabicyG dnrpp.xrhg
pe!. or lhnlk rn Idrspx.ing
Iis| rpplling dr sclcctd t.h
bc,w&tr lacks o) Bd,s
rh{ needle our d rhe luck!
(l) am' '. thmd dvd
*an Pullrhr t]lsd
ponrion {G) 'n f'g. 3 rl)
{idflurks: (l)ln r'l]c
'h.*olinbIk.runliq
rhr kfr lold. (l) cr.hrh€
Iold dirur! opl osne dth
bgdhei (l) Tr.k .si'n
dNnsh rh. enrer ot thc
doM (1)stonandcur
r]t rhErd-u arry the
posn,on ((b) 'n Fis 3 rr).
rosdhe and, ln ld\ei, kck
GE 3 r+) rh! wo klls trr
bd\*o'. lodrd j's' ixide 'h.
lolds rLioN ,lr cds6 b cun up
NorEs & VARTATToNE
bdw.tn hubhlt 'u!r hlk 8ubbl.
Nlk5 rN b{ rid on rlr sortrc
ibbon. l.aYhs th( cd cids drn
slins,
xqd rh.y * p*fttrla y
.jLlcd tuda n<d $Ifiltnt \pac
bctrlllDb.kjn3poi'Bbpnvd{llt
pul on ih. rull no boMns rl,e hl}
d rtt( I r oblcd. rh€ 5bnd oI a
6bled rudr .quals a l['1. l6s 'lmn
rorholh kiids oI!tu$ kc[.d
trtrks !m Rnd lr*h $th h.k b
th. s,n n oNrncs r rhc bqin
lins and rod or!trEr Bdd bubbl.
. bp liJeoIcoMcd{ndlar.
erd Ncks c$lFdad kking
il

168. 'fuc(s

169. PARTTALLY
SEAMED TUCKS
M rypes of
P:dart
$amed rlcksl
-ranl.l e.kr rth podom or
|oosefo|dsf6m$esamedfo|d!.
PRocEDtREs
l n.vrw thr poaducs ro!
su'rd,il Tutk 'n{ b.gh on
suh.d ru.k dn gEPl
Pale(
nlel lin6 to indic(. rhepin,
sp{e4 brrd.
$adurd, cm
ll ol m into un*m.d lolds
d d6Eurd poirB ((a) in
Fis &rt) sp.riry ,h. q,Pe of
1uck, tuck $dth, rhr spm
beNen hck, md Iotd pi6s
i'u d'frrdons on fte Phn.
. For imcrtuptd tuck, ounin€
nn.hing vnl be $spcndcd
{(b) b Fiq.3lt) rhGlaE
$e rlan into a full{L.d ,!.L
ing pakn. sprd our ro
bcludr sprt. ror $e uck
folds, silh tu.k ssdld$
rcred b$id€ thc ccnlmd ldld
rrnc. Lihi 'ur liahlor an
i rn|d uh daigrb r.
F]g'ajs'D.slgEh|padialy
.*hed|uckwjlhkMindi9fug
w6ttatds: la) Betead tuk wk
stq3. (b) tntwbn tucr; \|ik brc-
3 Using x r,bic.qre, Enishhs or
frark rhe nshr sidt ol rhe l,ln.
vtrh rold liIE ard *:mhrs *
:mnsemcnr Mx& rh| pdDB
FoI irL,!.d ru.k, .xpand rhe
tuck dd$s bsid. L tdld lin6
Fdr bkrrupred uck. fte lold
lins ltun &. pdeD: hce
4. Fold .nd sew nr dcks b)
Pull
,hE erd of ft suirmc rhl€d
ro rh. ba.k and ri! the n€edh
beloa rnmdng lht drt,& rrtr
bekdch or nnch in phce ro
rdry ror cros ock.d pfum.
5, r(51h€ {olds orr.l6.d dck
rel6.d rohons ot rh. tocks
iD&nprd tucks, sftrh rna
pin rhc e4$ or dre Nckins ro 1
ircnhddju{$o!clh.su,c
orrhe rucks. and alloq h.ool
6. Rds b "Exhding . ru.ktng
NorEi & VAru{TroNs
d<ocdYq they lundion $'n.rh{
I'kc plti6 ro crEre and conhl
fullDc$ in rhe m,rr.d !.dbc dI
$c fibn. Th. lullnss..n bc tso
lr€d n one o' on borh mtls of rlE
rucked side or dE *am.d sidt ol
ftl.aEd tulk5 can be skced for
lhcrightsidcwhcnth.iin.d
sid. is oubid., rhc ru.k in bkk
Unlile rel4.d Nclis, {abric Dat
tm.dwttnDtnrt@Prtdfuckln3
d€ign nmbs shbiliucd thmugh'
nonrlad ruck lolds ssnd, rna
lne pdls 'bd rplae rhe inreE<
crcs pmjcc' .vcn non. rhe d.va
ddn of rhe purs is decmined by
rhd db.h*gc tu pufi. shr papd
danning tonn intmptd tuckins
daiq! a! r Iully prcdnt rh3 dorh

170. :
i:
t:

172. SEAMLESS TUCKS
irofg fien eisth There are No
PRoc[DUREs FoR
CruslER Tuc(5
duncrs, diillL Lhl urrd mLa
lEord br lh.,iklntrnbc ol
hr bcr.ur ro!a. Dosu(
trrn {lss 6f rhr hbrrc iuan(
!n. tdtr hr.k rolds tr rh, -
&k5. 6 b!!l( rold. roi Iotrr
l,e.!{n trvo b{Ljold dob
b a.md r]I hrk lold dds on
b!${nw't]lddsbrd'!
nccd h 6su( &{ n.b Nori
tdsc to rds. (,) in Fis &r6J
ush8 {uiJ,v drrn n r orr
Lq:{hc rishr r on ,he thErd
dud pnl nn.Lrs. no'ins
dun{ tur ((b) 'n rris 3 16)
ln& l.ngrh. pin rh. mds k, a
luddd surtx. and n€er n i'h .i
beoledd4&lorcr ing
PRoCEDLTRE5 FoR
TIED TucKs
r. Phr a (Pladns. tull.sEd r.h
No dob.oN(td \i1h a lb! b
'iliut or rie (F{ 3 ri) rh.
!kAn( rlr 6lrri. h{roE lnd
]fr]lLrcdnrduf'hd*ntra
I wlh ! tubiavtu Psr or ruril,
6sdh.. Fo.surr!( trls. dd d!
n*hr 5iJ{ (he r.hn'qu. hll
ob{rtu drc ddc)r lor(.6e
Fis. 3 36 ra nab tubt lrcb: (a)
atistEd vdhatty and hd,htaty lb)
fujmp'lirg|hesrbhesloge|he|

173. i-r-i-
ii-j
iii
ir-l
NorES €t V.4RrATIoN5
{drh ol& tuc|ls brinhricbulr
u'ldemo$ concal Lk idE Rnd
BlanLs lillo{fs sridi$d
pd.
oorhning virlr tr'!l$ 'hi un m 5Lr
n,,l,ldndLe dorn b ndlh'rs
too rh| rabiA surli( (t) Mrkr r
lxrtn $,.idins
'he lhs apfl b
d.d r trp No rulk wlnr dr
ds'gtr F r.d (r) fti( rhcpd'Lm
hbn+{rE dnip|!{14 pd' or
Lbn! wnh r li|irc po{iL. oi ror l
rh dhd rratug. (r) cau$ns b)
thtd$ so
({) rvhlo nNhd pin
ourdr?rc6bdlcco,hc,u!rc[d
dry h.lo. upimhs (5) Rtau5r
oondd!* ftd r!d( d!5iqn! .hatrgt
th!!'rgsoIfufubLi.l[nnnigh
and rnr io dnron.n fin Lhr frbrn
t!"t @b-s la)
tde
3l a atdan
a aar
"F
q aq\hq lb . d) Pa$a'dat-
wrhsbgg*dsp2cirgard.hangesin
r][ fcdk inro ore dd and
Fiq'3e'P|epaingbreafuCkby
Cannechga@no|bb||ilh@t
. Nhtn surf?f lrirs in Go
.orkd ir b{k. r'h.. sof
. Fn rvd* ')ing dn$ir
rhrcu8h b 'he nghl ndt rl't
'u.r'Dg ro . peddcd boaid
srnn Nnh,n nor hcrd iun

174. :'
l

175. I
_}
ri

176. I

177. PATTERN
dineisioia zes d*iqm wiih .udin8
PRocEDURES
xre pin nL.|d 1b
Plo*
rhr
rn vq$ua ,he fabrn brfoc aDd
rng dE hLn. reqnnmcnt. or
sdcL}'1,Ldns|.J:dfbo'h
|'nmlr'd dk on a riBhL
6d d Mdo{ dunne drrliBh,
bc\,N r ri.sofrhcpn
horr'. ind rrrn gdtrlr rflh.
i.{*dqllt L G ddjl|]h'
ju* rLrod of rhc n(dr. 3nd
io noR dran ,r/ ( r tnn)
rFr rh. ford For dshr dr{s
rae nid, oD onc sdc oL ftr
rhtlnd asu.tuenfuh or rhc
d6br dth are.hatrs ruhhine sflch-
ll.hn) han one sb at the the
ard btins | tut '/6"
t1 snn) itan
llElha@lJlesifudiBc|lyw6ib
MoviE toNatt stqhql, kk a tiry
cahtirue hack ard tdh (b)ahet,,
{|ch6'pullhe|h.ead|aut|abig
6," GN'n) vid. rhr ro!.
trd{arLot th Lhl o{dr.
dn crion. olc'rding {nh
Lhrcad tmbo$$ rh. dsien
*rh thr ndg$ 'hd h e a
tup. lLk. .dsc (Fu 31r)
ca!3u.hirgqnrg|hereee@a
swt \{n ,nh) ta the tetu at the
tide tudu oppast4 stayins a scanl
t/s"11.tun) noh ke the d ethel
|he|h6adhulfuJa|e@n|ihDirg
fahnc
sentq Ph
murd 'hr
suili( ol rl]c tudG aDd rlorh
$ol Jod dl,lbttoro uvhg
Norrs 6 VAtLATroNs
.mss.:rd $op ind n ansh{.
inic d rhr kdnil0. Anex(p

178. P;T
TEIN
iU'( N'

179. FilledReliefs
PAR,T FOUR

180. Q Cording
CORDTNG BASlcs
CoRDi foR CoRr)Nc
arrnrrNc
n,s uri r aPP{oi !odirs I

181. HAND-SEwN
CoRDED
QUTLTTNG
comhiiedon rh* embcser :i nEr
]a.igd*giintoihesrhcef:hft
PRocEDuRrs
dri.e. No Diialkl. ev.nly
5Pe€d rin6 rhc lin6 d€rin.
ina'lai .nrfrn'ng p!rh! thrr
rPP€r b N€l!€ olq znd und.L
dn. ,nd'hcr where rhe double-
nop5 d. prosns0n df r
dhe( rnd ddr dranntlilier
channek ir m$6. s(au* ol
nens(Fig.9 l).Th.eI|widd
opyof'he dsisn onro rhe inn{
cuno rhc dcncd sL. (nrd 'd
. For runi,ns nn.hld cod€d
. rn b,.k.sdr(h€d co.ded
quilling, tri!. rhc daign dnb
rhE su.fee 6bnc rsjDs . lan
tsh,q n sn\, Emoubrc
BsE rht inDd linDe b rhc
d6ien Nirh rinl uniaom nrch
s. AL
PofB
vre (o${!s
dunncls intnup' d. I'nc bdDe
b{w*!,hE fabnc byqs ro dr
rhe line co{irucs, hkinS . linr
bekdrh on dch sid. or tr
ts 4ND 5EWN COPDED A! ITINC

182. F{ I-qi). pdlql Lh (!h 'lr
.abte catd: la) Pake and Msst,a the
taryatd (c) LeaE shad bk wh*

183. 1T
il
NorF-s €t VAR,ATJoN5
^n{.o dtr,g. rh! li6n! Ld{lqr
rr,! lnd r,nnr rhJon.rs sha, d h.
dDorls /" (6 tr) widc {! jLLr!
rrrh| !trt,( hr,nr r* sullrnr
!$ or rh! inilrrrhg hrin., b(
annr! fllf r,{, r/ (6imJ.hrn
.onP bs a L" (6Dn).hrnn.l
(6rnr) drmd nLlld v,l, 'm
lable.lorded .rarrl hN. 'nd!
.!ble.!{ded hb.ic,r liunr n
h,unLLluo Fn lrrd hhLi(
(nnn) d,trnd A doirr!,r qnJ.
1[rnr\5 r 'lt chaoDd 1(hinrd
Lf'3 e rl .huN, hfe.r'n(dk
o hodkn,!nh0rqriunriig
,l,rmqi bf rha,d.d rhnrusf n
d.nsrn r. rNd5ibL 4srr0d
rh. lrdr.
!I1l'! hirs s,r r,!P lLf'
otrGid ]t olnnigr tr. trLAg.d
larhnrs rfiL a iDg(ndl u
dnnr -rdri.r ld .o!!td und{.
!hirnrr Jod !d,he yrD n rhf
ncrhcd LxPuLLbs rfr][ dumds
he nnDinn R.n,ov. rft nnns
(|,is q.r)
JoLr rkro dN.Lop.d
-
: "
--
,-4."
---,.=,,
'.-':',
i,'.i':t
-tt'
:,\i::
'l<,/'-:\:
A:'

184. r{Ddhnosri r.,rd Nnt!
n{ligr..td,n,oai! ihoi
llilLn b(L{i(hia l'u*'Lr inDd
cta$ore thtead haus the cabt-e card tn da.e

185. I :ri*r.'.1t l
; l-!.-.4<_i
,{ffii
I
arrr!'!r!r&rt .
-
+:!rc**

187. M,rcarrr-5ewl
CoRDED
QutrrrNc
PRocEDURT5
h1!. PrELrd dorbl! lDclhaDnrls
h fft.d 0€ s$) rnllltu
(6dun r h$ nrforshnnirLl
d(r rrior urisf ro$ oa rh.
d6
3r
onro dr hurs (rL.L
Prsr l0j) trarf 'lE linrngb
hs rlrrr dais! Equns 'oF
uDoi(]btlb!d|gl]tunL5
d rr l ro'!i i' balr (r) P,LLL
rrN oLlJrr thFad rp rdl qr ol
r|t lLnhs 'de (r) Ttr rhttuc
nrhrsqn& kioL o) rn$r
md1.rr$1, LhL o{dh nno rh.
rlriDs{ dr lan *rcr orl[l
rlredsr $nnoir (+) sr!r!
durs dsdibed on
|]sc t39.
arirrirA Gr{r.r$m.cdd5
6! aoidrDS on
Plg. L37l Mo{
rh an i hrl{abq! rhrht)
qhq'dtbn{Lh.t?hn.lhI\ll
con(al Ed! Ll( Ld!!s.oPr d
NolEs A VAruATroi\'s
lbou rind *$n.o.ded aui d,g'
+nP'uuq'htL0(|hg/h.ginnnlg
(r!5lb{ m rnr Bdo,r { ir:.
lidrr d,h:peina bdycr
lhmre s FoL !,rid ordns. dli
.h.i,nd! or,nod.rk lu,sLh HLh l
nPctr trLldrc o bqLkN orr(
'h. !nd rlmnsh 'lE !hDn.ls qrh

188. h3$fdi(fi'dmd]cds'.nq
ba.k 5dd a rm @d 'h,r bu
Pr$s
loor frrh a sF . in 'he k.
dnL choN r d,nr Iahic 'hd vnps
Fltrdns dinlnats.oin{nim s
a npznt xlnit cLEnud srthLnB
(Ii sin Nih rnim! n.lnhad hf
tr lNgI 'hr lLnh8 iid qrdlli
L, lorpd!tu lor 1ltr .u, \irr oI the
ntrh(.IiLri( orr Lht q'Js Prr
Lhc lLu!3 u' d'! jdc (2) $rh
rhc n i(.fibri! up rNlhcfisL
san Gl h5slr tnn roid. su.h
rsriE, ihe $N $rhrziPpdor
qdis k $ nN Ld r1r cord.
(+) corhu. addins c.'dcd qr5.
(F g 9 9) lDdi.n. oosured 5p.ain8
*ms proenls th ud ao h!
'rh.
humpLd rds6 a'uid b\
noNrtd \!hcn .ord G nitdrd
irsidr r]t lhrDncL BLh( dNr
{dd (F'g 910) rL E€ithfl
ndhod oIm$tun. th! rmho*cd
nnh knoln ud lwisb 'hd !lx,*
Birh Jhd(r/rt ' r'r-
n .h.,.difg, i |dq'oni oI
rhit:d.n.lo$ rh. !ord rvi
redLe or :iszis {r(h'ng n'bni
heschingwil]fuable|awaprhe
laat nak6 a @saqew4 tot the
lne {B.d r{lr or qrd's sd' Li&r
o | lup oI pudnc Iabn! sun
*n.hmsN(h1kq lcqtrd
Lordrn rcdl.s Guide lh. .oid
und{ r]t rk${
kD' b {trdrtrg
taj cad insetu afret swi@ he hannets atu lb) cad bsed.d thte

189. T.
I
I
I
1.
i
}
t
!
a.
!
i
i
!
1
I
i
!
i
,
t
I
I
!
;
I
1
f
i
I
I
t
i
I
:
I
I
i
l
v
E
E
E
&
l
x
J
t-

190. t.]ACH Na aEW:!
a oriJ:f) QL|LT tL.
:t;
1, ;:
I
:
:i
I
t'
:
l
:l
=i!
:i: h
::"l'
u''.,i
lt.1i
:, . ::i
|ilil
''
i

191. UflryIlir{.ar-s\
I

192. SURFAcE
CoRDTNG
PRocrDLnE5
ir(L{Lqn (ds k) .{J [{
.o dlrs Dfis. Lsn fn 'ril
r.Lhn( (s{ (ii !r r rs e it
o {hr d idir(d. dr..tr\l
@.\J..J.!'.'
q rhe djr-4-ea.-F between b-F
b) fre nnintn space b,4||en
seans tat adkcent .dded tubs
.,fdtr.tr!! (lr \1ur Lor) Lhr
snnn.nor i rrl i(ld rLrr
l!, ,1,! .!rr,atr!o .r ri6,rtor

193. NorEs €t VARrAroNS
.onlhuotrs'i'Frordng$.Iltrt6b'
,iotrs $N th..nds ot rhr fubn!
Notr burdis r]I flaLs or th. N,n
whcrc rlq ,nc(. n s$ 'he L!1bLLI*
*wtr.o,d.d qniltns. surr!( <d
.d dDnnelsnDise !o s or r
co Ltrg onprg.la7) Pdkms&
rrom Llt r,bn! !d br .trr.d rnd
.oil.d dMnA aDntnmn D.(hrd
.oklirg is ude tson dF d{ bhs dtr
(Fis s LB). Th! .oil t oachine
nrchtd h'i& thr c.'Ds \d' r. n, nich2od-od h oncoF.
a,Do: (t) Fdld bd\*rr lItr
{n (r) I$qr dd LBidr 'lr
pinn.d tord o) rnDgth.
F4hinc Gr 0, in rir eit
,rn lod ,rnvrds: o) Pli
orro$? 4singsoi€ (r) s$!
rhe rrc$s loor o) I hndins
lhccodinta,P$L]n<dk
iri,lc tu NhuLr .asinss G<
tds$ or surr,le-cordd fah, r ror
&$ l] trdtrd crn|! o s dr
*!munderosLh! b6r \i(h

194. qL u idE sough h indud. s! RRrn
Parar
rirhs^drhg
q|l (.n
rtro ) 5lutr jqnnA Lrc
Pi(s
of tuh-
n( o hrDs.!c i toMd:tron h
q.il d! noP a rc$ i!trm'LLx ford
brr(ri8 o n) For .LilL(i apPl.
as ene. la) PlTs/weane bt ir
san awratb tb) P,p)nctuenihs
b{{PiPhghlldngiIreifli.
oI hhn. trnL au.+6 nr.Lbs rf
rbdtr r" (jcn) noo rh.,n{rins
|)oinr oP.n rr p+urn€Ldns ashg
$J finnh rhe bdnnu (h! e 2it)
s.{ 'lr {!ord pi<e ot fab.i. ro th.
|in{hluht!'lsfaqngfilrlh.
Pip[A/rEldlginrcoddloLLid
6 {h Jrmd( or ,ht !ow.d .o'!
({f (h) ii Frs e re) hf rh. lor
sl,on 5qn droqn( und.nrcRrhr
rgrnn 'ht .o.d,q of rr I o! tun
Frg9.2lMachfusewingnrea|
p@rylretinola)dowa|dhda|in
s.a,n illdwa(s rc iEidc orded
b3 ro nake cod.d tubrng {D .tr' .
sdp b! a duPliah hDs'h (1)usnsa
br' rct qhdr agai,s' rr,! or,r ^L,hc
(r) Hdlli'3 d{ r,p of Lh! q4
141 ftnd srirch .ord.d lubru e,Lrr
r !!ao asrhn rh. fourhron hr)
or rcd{ing{lom dr h:.k nretrlr
lht|dtrldalo!i!ahoqrJnd|jxk
up rsah{ rh. hhn. nom rnds
n$'h coded dbingsrn rpfropn

195. t
t
I
I
:
J
I
:J
J;
fi
i,J
tt,
Iit
,ill
1li1)
/! t1
ltlll
1t\lr
11\l

196. s Lr f( iAc r: coAD NG

197. lQ Quilting
I&ANifERxtNG DfstGNs
Qurrnnc Bsrcs
dc5i3n odo Llr hhn. L.ror rrr rop
R bs,.d b rh. b3rins od riDi'rg, dr
b!d.0vho1tb''1)rt'dB/rdh3
VrirrLn$on rhr ighL 5d. or
,h. rq) ilrr rh. rrbr! h6 b{!
dunigmtidsUaafaLn!{f.
ln.hins duDhL€ orus]l ro lAr
,r,. lat r ,l .rDk ,4n 6urj
'ltoughlqjovsla${lrsa|
!Lsa, k, Lht kT (hc imge Nll
6. etRd) .( uia r ndrr{
dle ord uo rh,od or.lh. LDG
*ud b!rll.hernd.dopd
rtu Lhi d$!nh6 rlt d6'sl
aurLlNc BAsrcs
jouri'g \6rlLlsu'i\
H^NDAL]ILTI\G
NrA.r u aurlrrNc . .. .. .:17

198. from
rh. h pl,r oi rh. ror I
\mihl]is{l]nlLrouRh.d
ohicd. oin ould l.,.urour or
. rirns r t[0.nnishr.ds. Lons
u Nr naisltr I'is d' ar [ib!(
. ro qurLr lo"c.nric] l[d*rh
on. oi bo'h elAG dr oi5lil8
D|. nu.[ 1o dr ruLlk! rh!
\yidLho|lh.ms|iiDgun./r
(6Eo),'/! lr r!m), tr, (r.n).
r" ( r. r.trD<!trroL Ll{ !F!
0,ddlurJb.(nsd fromrh.
. rd <ho
cuildrs. cui. llt ne
ho, bPl J( rJL!. ur dr
Dor h 'N ftiiq! G @nihuos
hLLllls. quilkLl aftn oghlhs
hold,h. hbrtr utrr.Dd r!T Lr{
nriighr rlaa 'hnr an r€ Dr.h.d
h rk naigl'llatr' or L|I ltbri.i
rk pomo! or nDrirs in LirrNn
BAIII]\'c
L!!rb{tr,ninglid bld1,. sp(aL
hnened rirr rir.rrs ro rLr. hb.i.
hn!e or rr0rd-hdd r(drc aiion
Nts' h qulld $!ry 2" (tonJ r
rod $Eddins vhi(h n dls hns
driLulLi!3 k bE 5Pi(d +" lr0.n)
rD6 (Ltotr) qin ri'rrndvf.
ror iG
PoruL ,!
Lo roft rcsuhL
.sprdrlr irrf N6hhg. tcrdi,s
h ing l* Lro.h€rtlnu,f,t
rEd k{dra t !d a nrio!
Pob-
vsha,iLjll
Prohr!ms.
riur rrr
E\ilirD'. Ind qnilF L,k.conon o(
r" (i a'i) nrdfns*p*i.ons
si](tix]soal.rlrltry.ign'
!l 'mnlrn !ir. !ilI hddDsn
,i,s' surh, n( iron onorr of
ba ron rlt mdd. sLi ro Ld,
rn rr h irs{rh rrr dN.n hb
n6: (r)
aurr asurLsqur,. or
brin!trrrlLo'B n 'hr D'$rrd
and ride
ti sPr(d (]) NrcNre rrr
qqhld lFplL O) Pull.trlir. nLL.

199. (+r trtrffu rii rniP{r rh Lh!
6rd dr
ruL r(ntrLi!! (t) uiL!
THE DoL'arE-BrNDrNG
EDGE FrNrsH
N!d!r (r(k) Fis r rrdlris.
emrn rhdLrsiFg tii tr FoflJrq
]if.lolBr]1uo|i*c\on
r,s
q
rB or l].g! ) ri! qdrh
fd!.,1rIf,flrd rf d '1, r(N
rl! 4Jj! otir o r dr r i!drr

200. JorNrNG MoDUL R
UNr s
croo* of. oLlhr rolroqtrg
.ONCL{LTD CONNTCTION5
ioPqulLhs /14 r.n) Iron rlr
(6nN)r ropquiLri,s r' (25!m)
t !1r IEI Pi! rhe lbins nrd
or 'he bp sdr nshr :id6 ogdlr
nls. r rlr.ds. (rll lrj{E) of'hE
,r.,!d und( hr,nilnidr rLr. roLil.d
or r|[ *.ond nodrl! {Fis rot
TAP'/] CONNE'IIONS
s,ht oodnL( ro br jorrll ftutri
und.narh. q,rh
nshr sda rr.itrs
sv rl]c edgs of trlo rhdulcr
SIRIPPID CONNICTIONs
L\o {Q5 riqhL ii'r$ fro!8. rd
olhn$rs\id..,onsh ro hlL,n rh.
(Fis l0 t) rud quikDs u 'hc

201. \
.t
Fa la5 Sdppcdcanr@lar 13)Jdr
the hhs shp bTe lb)Fttth.sla.e
H,rro Qt trrtnc
(rcrn h rhiDs o,
r,sr
106)
behhd|he|ap!|ipwrhfud'njlackdd

202. :.,
:.ii::
ii
"*:
ir-
t:
i. .. I
''
:.'i :l
..-'..
-.t'l
-:l:
',:)iit;'f;;rt
f,
',
,l
','
,.
-.': :1.:
Fs 147 D8ba3 tq ba.^ercund ttte6
. oui, bord.F dul lanc E
dr sou d.nsn (ru r0.3)
nghr nJe of rabn ld hrs
(rder ro rransi(nnc D$q6'
o!
Pisc
,0uh hbn! srfr
ftrknus. mak hiol bur qsibt.
lines drnbk $oush b sud$
nndrn s .i[($ aDd moifs dDr
e hir€ quiring do tul turruLft
. E.ho qu,rbc (lh) b Fig l0 6)
r/ (6'n'n) Ld /t' Ocn) apdn
. 51ipph quikn,c (k) rn
Fr8 10.6) surounds aisun
,ns.{ nng. nn'!i
nn.lrcs
rn(d r l|[ Nor
. Da'gG nnched ns bsPinrior
r cut rh. bai.n!andlin'nesli+L'
ly lar8{ dn $c bp. lL rh bp
s bia G 3.
r{lurr bd (!dng
si-) N rh. banLn3 ald lhil8
4"(roco) rlEd rll riorn For
emth hPr. rtdule rh inftise
4To]rd.rhbp.hrnDsaodl]n,
tr,o{ dr rr,. r,hrc G ddn (o,
or urilrNhbk). oru$r rriEe
,h.5Lc or the rini,g (Fig lct.ll
sPr€ad. s'iu.ft d( lmodh. rnd
drc .ds.s to rlr. {dr( d anxdl
hdh riold rh. h\$ bsahcr
,rmPo0.il) qih mrsof lons
trdish' ph5 vhilc banhs rirl
. rhrcd .xtri rons lrng,hr dr
uDdso{,h ?nd rt:'{1G)
lr5!n),rd or d.s rhar

203. I
)
li
-)-_-f_1_
J_-ai
Ei i-fl',r':'
Xllitt,i" i
$f:ii'l'jill
#i;+iri.iii
ffii:l.
l\/ti)\::l
t)
L
t
ii-i i-
l-i-i-i-
ii-i i-
--l- I i-.,t
,_,_j
j_l
Fi1,10.9'Pa@|dbasfuahe
[email protected]
(2) squarcd atu (b) Ratuti@ and
carcentd. tnB (e) Pddns the
edg6t'|aldaqdrdbelinglhe
efulinircb|he3eafralldwa@
. Pin rill bros or ltltel.PlaL
td nal erd) piB, n2.00,
0,di1 shnalomrndof
spa(d + lr0.r) lpnt U*
r
sEpcGun spoon 'o hdp in
oubid. cds6 sid, ncdlc aDd
Roll lr*. qdl's a ro{sdlbsr
Lh. tull 6 .on'huc b6rhg rr
rhr quLllingdaign G ,lMdl
nark.d on rhc b! uy b bsr
t. Follo! 'nc [n6 oI rbr qtr'lnng
lhud insEd imo a 3hon,
bd$ren $w rhiough all rh€ l,r.
{n.hs ,nro dr radd.d
rabnc b
nE.nbc rhc dsisn ino tne 5u.
h.e (Fjgs roir. 10rz,,nd
N'l*;lg;;;a#
as. 10.11. (a) ra stad qukns, mke
(6m) bsth ot qukne r@d
11.3"r) ftan tu Me $ete sl:ilt.
rng|lbqinddhenedelhnuqk
pant. (b)-rus M the hread ta pdp
thekaa|lhbUahfu|qbbdqen
-4,-.
c)@4n
(e) ar trehatite ta tund knob uti
titu h@d 36" (e1 5.n) tae. ke
|iq6eheahe|hafiloquil|in
while quiling. plaa th( btLld
bdhardns,rin4 D a Imn. d
*nhor hns srddug lurd

204. Fa|aDFuFningslfuedqbnq
G) rhe hid u@t d the szw)re
'ac's|heneefulh|aughlhe|apbL
tng4ni@whchhphchedbwafu
sudaa (b. d) thg din at be
(n sdins aahet .tuch viut a pel
h
-/r
waEar4@rb)
i. adhhs rEE6 armd b
rarse sitd quihirs pnjd
bpa[hMhD8 F rqdr--ro.
qn' r losiion trul Lhe qal'
ins i5 rbGhcd (Iig L0l{)
dsigr bdbr. bahg rM !d
,hs hh the {€n. rtrd drx
do* bsftrs Enr r&.s,!'
in dhndss troo r0,1l5nn)
><--
@Fe@4q&
/tr-F-"-,
((..
)
Fiq1a13hs{U@qun4rda9
at a qufti@ rne: (a) Knat tha th.ead
th" (1.3m) tm tb tuna6. tb)
lfuneefu|hrcugh|hebatipand
8:bnngradhahE'lenglha||a!,
(c) rus he knd inb he tuttu| cul
the thead fiere t entu6 td) ro
M|ha|hybackgibnsbb|hefu*
|h.a@h|hebathq'b|ingnoha||.
enped inta a 2s173 hn) haap
.funqe|aahaf.bleh@en

205. r6op quilrhs is poirble:rd
nvdy rM phhd rhe d3$. rf
wnh danPhs Prcr oDeside
bp qr'm d'c bpaahMd,
kks. ren'ouhr ropAa'6s/.
lirins ton ft lDop b.rw..i
L.p quil'ins lecds tu ]xpl
ard one hrnd undcmslh, tr*
!rdk. Llhic[ G Mnrtrvd.d
ry 'he orherh3nd. Lep quik
md pd rr bp4xnhsnhiis
rrr do,rr ldvding a koce. ald
h,r beEn diidcd i,ao enill
runovc r1l birns d,dd LxlcpL
rhe drerd insidc rh. *Rn
nush wirh tht in.d up r4. of
the bP A$€obh quilrd mod
ults rdSdh& lehs oDe or Lhe
ncrhods dacibed h !oiri!8
covr rhe edg$ ol? ff nishtd
mdrtu {wn. doubLd bhd,dg
(reb ro
'1
hc Doubkd Binding
fdee..in!h- on
Posc
207). o.
L! b{k unril
Pradice
p.rle6 $c
lic lih unbrmpd nkh6.
pu.k.ry txrufl I'r dGLirgunhd
uid 6 rhc only quiklnsnir.h
bdryh\.|sftncd+ilttngIurc.
s ufd ro quiLt ,hc nejonry of a
comror Nhen
lurriry ihe rhard i5
surf,cei roo much rhrad rision
5hdaers ,ne quirtcd fabnc. s.oc
sdFP[ry, i5 heihblc rtz(n
|hLh.d3i.6imPonad,add3'{.-
rynee'Rn. lor sl.nk,g. wh.n
dting th. hbiics rnd b{uu.
Dsisls wirh shor..los lirs
quilre6 ro ntsonat Analr:t lhc
n'ne quhng p,rh Ifrhelhc hehs
out, *oor thc ntcdl. $rcugh rhc
utlhs ro r n*rbyliiErexhabl.
NrYdquirr lons. rnishr tins
mrh leqrhy the& 'hnr could
sn,p undd hrurc srdn nirh I
shdd ipan of $e linun,l dH vrn
r rnc n.aqr o,lu quil,iie nqa
l(les b apr€d in r|t qnhing {i.hs
nonqble k!o6 and riLs ol rhud.
NorE5 & VARradoNs
Nodc quilrss oftcn tcd duNJ,
or dE h3n,l abor. *trh rh. hand
bclov lhm rraft or hoop,tu uns
r l'rL pm'rr ooroarlr rhe
rdtrry, bur r uk r dedrcrred qTe
n€na tu rhicv. ln. ftx ladr
{1.5.n), .oudry onb rhe nirh6
,l hand quilrirs Thi!. soft bnnng
rRyd.d bdNrcn rlrn, sort fabn6. :
and esr ro. rhr nrtdk ro slip
,hDush, L rh€ n(ssry brsc tor
p,rr or the :6rhdc. Unifomfty
snd pi.bnar 5uibbilitr arc rh.
hand qtrilrns rpprc.ch* the de!o,
sk r,m.rul
{dr.i'8 tooLs tikt
nnninsjrft.h.d qultus bu' lne
D€edlc dioD n drrdm fd pn
rcii.d lt sh. quitleE rt! an
ambrddrss aldriry: wnh the
bP,Ening,rh''u[.lhfud
hdop. rle hand abovt pushc rhr
n*dr. {higbr dos! rhrcugh rhc
nrdle our ard. mond fownl by i
d.h rc ftqE the nedr€ iDb $c
rining, pushing tr shighr uP lor $e
hrDd rbove ro rcd.v.. .nd so o!

206. Qu'hry an lE blftd b i p.hon
or $e 1op labnc n'c bauiis du' prrs
&€ {6 shdrld b. d,in and/or pulltd
dd slrddca aound L\e <kd b
d\indle od
eBduJ
odr.Nc. dr
linE $hse r lbps nRr shs s r ndge
$ilttd
qh
linhs. or lh. 'hc .nd
bp,r brne 6
Pdbus
d&nh.d
od5. $r drlq€dn n appli.d d 'h!
b.gd]i'EnlhoJundE@do|'lt
trph b dd id idrrhbr. ro wndr-
mod'drsi.d Prej!!ts
shtr wd a
o) \skb$s dss. snoorh 6c b.*
ha up. over rhe bdrlrl8 A'u!l' d'r
nr bsEdr{ {i,n enouglr dn.ad d
d!L) rd tsdis ro prrm ft badns
lsn nnDling anl sdchbs Junn8
tudn& (2) \i'h 'he edgc .lLsn.d.l'r
'hcbPtid'i6ielasdt|d]r€lhc
lhg'orhtLi]iruAdi|gyalhhc
$v rouDd dr €d*s, hruC e. .or
rcrfr'hNod'l[td,gdulsdth
a hrtan op.nins larg sough itr
uningoDomshighnd€sd}5dld
'ht lhio3ldlis si,lc or 'n! oplnE
on Ih. *i,nlint pR$ knEhrsn
rLlownes orm. dr ill coruE dago
lePinif$![Etbdshg{s9f...
piE€n 6) crry fic quilrilg de'ED
h tu lrigc ot rh. Ltdnr nEtuL 'ht
*an aLlorunct and 0 l c qu'hD.r
blneb d'ca tdg.{, rnn rhc b!'
'ins ftu'n rlrc sum rllo'ana befot
,un$g (ltele' ro Fis r0 rz roi
F(Jld h4d 4!i'iu.
pncduE
quilEd hsdhr w'$or . lilq ot
h4dns in b{N{n .a i Es'Lr rh.
{rklr rl'.fdt $c runftsjdrh€d
Ln r grdlikc i,anner dEhlhrd nnd'
rer rrng s N.nrd h tai Fqr
hEl hn horhs. dh{ $c curYr
srdy
dnlk klad,s rbl. torsil
rrkE of idt0l lil.s of dinDq b6!
nng ( l) l,Epare the ror. bdlh3.
rnd Lbins rith efErr.pin bsd's
(2) \M1h Lhc q idrh dl 'l't 'dp{r:!
dlg4dhgspudNlm,Fieq{L
!* r tnplat srl hoL6rospd LhE
(rt!m) ap'r i5 a
rdddr
rlutr.c lor
qirs o) Fd! tl? !n h6 {'d d5.
ddd prlc .okn, .mbrcidcq flos,
dk D.rptndtuhr h fte su|Ja. Fttk!
$! 5lirdr6 r {@r
,/ (6@) ,ft,
,)ms uil d $t brsiinrns ($nL
]in
or ibbor hc f(dh. nEke a nnsle
nich) irc sd qm bc rd. qr
," (t r.n) or moR hon rht knor.
rtul ldl lm* b ganish JE bp, oi L\e
ends €n be dsl h bolk h Nhih !a*
L\ebPnirlbcdhPllr]}ihptrlkd
'nr.
riiiig bidirq ts an N.o'npLi
otd cds. fnch arrropn'E ro! a d€d
'q1il( (r)rnE rbftls nun' *i l
rh. rdgc ol fit top Tun th.exrs
tnEoq'Ic.dgcb'n.fon(Fn
denly for bindins (2) Pcpart 'ht
FQ,1a16'|apbanirgrnircpr@ea
O) tull Lhc s{lopc nsh' idr dul
snddLhd Ldp 'o 'h{ lLi'nei6r'itrg. or
w
.",.&
(.)
Fd 1e17l4ry@@pheb & 4
Mjbq'd.d'futt-h@ly@
tu (d)tri@ he d& wtut @ 1
sqEe M le) Ptdite ied at a ti
lotu6 Md, a dbsonrl ft,ld i 'h!
l[ft dd h, : sBo{lLqrr{ dE
ranft t nr ih fold Rr ii,Ld uLl' nLgcs
roflnns md ngh' sds la.ing. 0d
G)Pi,rhrhN,gh hs k, 'h ratrl
\l$ ft s@n 1llol&. umrd uid.r
Lds5trtrh b mdft dm3r, ir rrr.
rs ,o *(m d. hindbs (Fis L0 tB)
Fa 1013. la) L)nirs bhd@ pt€-
diaqarat, tatded eatnet lb) ood
Mybsecurenj|eh:s|opi|.En|
s|lcdhqa|aehednJbziqzag

208. I'T \D Q] LT \
,.'i,,"..r,",,!",r' I,r!!rjr;r)iF
l
{
l

209. Fts. 1o.2o Batdet dsigre: la. b c) tuchhe
sude
qJtuitq
ld, e) Free mtd qunihs
FiE 1a 1e eeqhund at owQn tusisn
edquttuE la, b, c) staisht ald srshtry eufrire het ate
ha saead b dbp {d e t) 4nded and deeplt.wed
MAcHINE
QUILTING
PRocTDURES
tnh0c. 'lt p?ddtd ndnc.
shrn inr.ibed dth nircr,i,gb),
nd Jnd nop r rlr dgc, ard
rins,hiid$lnhc o, Iill wnh r
,nrrnuD drDrroal noPs nrd
ffchirc.quirrd suni'1c. bu il
nabilted (rofer ro H irs on
prg. 206 ) Macbinequiilirs
dc{gB.r di .d h,o bad{-
s, oun.l (fis. l0 l el. bor f
G+ 10.20), and tiluGrilc
(Fis r0 zr). rod subdivid.d
2. Cur hbri! hsiarorrh. rop,
,ddDF an a|lo\?nc. for s| tr!
ldp ur'rr a hbdc.s{e orrLing
1001'trd . r,idrbd lisibr.rin!
Ponb6
or tl[ dc4n rlnr rir
tlsund $d cperd. r imlF.
&s$n'D{k'|g:f'fbNh3
rnd m6.du,!rr b.r{e nr.hi|s
niy b. ipPmPnie rnPlorl*d
nrhft quil,nunquG rLtrrc
o, no m rnu (Rdir rD.r B
rtrq D.silo, on Pisr r0r )
t brg ks xdut' bel.lq {hs
1" Oo!m) rars Ju JouDd f0
a sPEad rhf linDsour. ngh,
{ihllhbl!Lxr3(obqhb
suPPon ?llolnor olrlr hb
n(squn€nofi.luJj(wo'l'
4'.i h'l!r, fr ir ,t rh.J,,r.n
4i'n[llt!'d(l'bJtplig
buldos
raPn
hbdn]8 dirrs.

210. Avoid bdting
qhere quildng
lin* ft rurked o! dud.d
II rh! hhl€ bp c sn,ll.r ln,tr
ft. m,r. rhinenEiing'oP.
b3ft in *dion1 Epahg
rhe nrekhhg,nd < dns
plam.d ror th€ toF Relnk 'ht
nachheqn.hinsn lhod b lh.
elly movins rhe roFTbdring/rin
norcment of rhe roP4driienti
in8 und- the ddtus needr
a. o!.all, b:.kbund. and bor
d( daigB frrh sftighr lir6.
sngl6 :E rhe mon suihblr for
(r) ooolr a pBq root dB'
$. quildng linq $i E6.
suE dis0ne, Lr str.h sp,t
q G E{rud4 .nd L\d
ticuh.lr whn ,ruihhg lii6
aEloBb rre 10 13)
pa,lded surlce 3,1,n&
vithiD dE brdns Eight
b t2 sraighr nirch$ p{
6l'E 6 .llning. arhch
rlc .dsa ol rh. lining 'o rh.
rour sidcbrF ot rhc fnnq
rd nrekh bdwe! sideb$
b cenrer rhc b ins ov{ rhe lin
up. ovs rhe b:fting Thftad
bsrt Ein8 a lons or cured
Fiq 1021. D$isre in he mtin qtjiins: (a) Flqmttue mtits tu srbt
laa!.sEl]En@|lo|gMngla'|lbhbe
desiy. (b) t@!i,ed nends ,tuhks tot fltar k) Echa.qlmed spiat
allheadsha@'|hiry|a|ise|lman|lerd|k:hhg|i119|'
I6ren fte lalcE rog.'hd wth
$idr piB d 4" (lo.nl inr.r

211. Fiqla26Pdnglheldpbatnql'
rr, aqtrtr! r'itq dnL<r
( r) Lu 'hc tNd doas o, .n.
.rG.lnhLglanlhlnh
keaps|heb']katlhelqhatnqln'
Mxh 2nd6 ad 10 th,a teh, B )n
|aqDs|adbve|a@jnalaraw2
b6trdbP/nltrlg/|Ld!]s
parens
ta) stth h6 acrcs
the centet r 61 tb) srbh abel
crPotrrn dr o/ofurt
alrlr NC , e

212. Fig1023'Fa||reelalanquhng'
handsdie.l|he|aplEnirglirirg
ftps clt tnn tutuat otores tutp ti
bn$bs $. norftN oI
rhe lalnic ro a gn lMl nop.
ffl,iilolthtdasi!!lih
trnu'ng 'o iLdlr clipil
nuiocquilKl r,PA hs/
(l)su( by holdjng on 'o rl'.
end of rhemedle rhR:d
rhrcueh thr rop/bartr'p/
rod( ft rh,lad bynirch.
l.nCrh b Lh! de!(d !a
(2)rdlnJalh.orqdLllng
xnhrr rh. hbn..
fi"dtrdr!
dcoo* r]t nrd, lcrsrl,
To nimge l,+e. bullg: nr!hi!.
quil'i'upruj.ls r|[liincr
spac ,!,ibbl€ bd €n dr n(
,o ,r lrr, or rhe nehinewirh
txtnsions. prledbly lcEl
Lr"|6s rht b/hihgrhi'r8
hrs suppon. i6 Lleish, ndll
hhdslhr
ProBrc\Yc
mdrr
b. k.kas ht qls i,rtinhs
ro rhr nghr oirh.qnrrring liNr
scun drc roll $rh 'mDr hnr.
d! dirs or er{r ph5 .dld
,n3.hnmd besEn rhe rcll
fufundn'dlol'ftdop/bll
thg4hmgb'htpr:CNhe]e
quL'hgGbh.gnAlihe
(ts1g.10 nq). R! pkkrg. s
drhbn.undctun*dk
lins qirh niidrs rhxr tr.
al'{in! rhe nnish o$ird
,r,! fins.B, o ir the f'bri!
Fs 14.4 @ La@ bptbatun n.
i@rcle|lan|lchpe|lw|hbillcle
ctix to ho nqht and dded 10 be
qDtuhs @) raatbadinsttinids aeat
di@rod€dhba@egebhabh
v--a

213. nnn.iornnmg/LhgD
FimoRrb/6rdng4h
rhe LnrirF (r) rEnd$! rrr
{ndK; G) Lft dr rtrr
r$ tu{dhq rod (r) quilL
|]'h.frl(bp/bdn4'1D'
,hs ro ,he r,nirs. o) $v
Lh!b[i'B/li!4nnlq)
b,h| *nrn n]Rdrqurlr
bihnanrnnrs. Nd (+) quil,
nldhs fu n oinc ro rht
rx/,intd n lornr's !odtrl.r
la) DMe he bP, banhe, and rdne
hta two [email protected] and jojn l@thsf
ahet quttu$ the tid sedm. (b) cul
he barirq tnta tutva (at thnd, and
Ja}dJogl'ng]hQdnal!lLa'
ad. ro Th. Doubl! Btr'dtr'g
[d8tFnish onFsr207) or
NorES & VARrArroNs
aurc tf bl'llr DsnrDs rqxrud
rdLs$fll.[ngl'oL.pirtd
i,g/LiDns , {tNmds a f,!s&
n'ddrl! Ll" (:10 5on) qurr
.]glhrD.lhlnov.f]on<lgi
nurghr lN filtE bc,w&n rrguri
mdh€ire|4I|ongllltdol-
d$io $ lu{,(FL3 xr:rr),o
Pr!.n, r]I nrdrirg ar.r nnnk
Hit
r,
F-,
Iti::
LrI
ffi')

214. r4djui ro a mw 'is-
sfr o' 'hr
,d l!\s ,lE
Pi€itr bn .B isr
ho rnd{{s.ddot0i* ro.Ii
Ns m,l ci+r. n bnh mDrlh
diffqtDr r,on rh,dilhrdrbr
1,s! e. N, dr,r rdhods nr
(l) sr{ b:rlr uJ ddr nrnrosopi.
nnch.s rDL,n" irnnl bcfoc ifL-
irrlnd dtrr io riis ()) oi 'rtr
r.pdrlLrhslJe 't r r.nls olllr
rnaiL.d nr bs( urd {ndrins 4
atril' nritrrrutrlL L\plitu
rr.c. nr.hi,s lonnlonia t lNs
,ir.,lErd rr nkn,s. Ir,uL dr
kd{ b .t 10 r 6J $lts rin. n rrr
lrtr sAnms
(riis t0r2l NtD
p4
?4
ffi
n
[-1
l-r--
-
i
r=---
f -- /. I
llKi
M]
Fs 14.2 la) A'bbT t6 and
lb) tab ennedac baied b the rchl
afua|anadDbb|.pbe|e3egrnq
lo|helrirghanhgfed'ightsida
rcad A) b re ot (d) srq baehel

215. rRkoth]ngol|)''heliis/,litrg
h $c hcrtuB5ntrh$ (FiB r0'')
roPs. L i"g and lini,s fo, tb: {c
*L 'o8dht.l.xvhg 'h. 'op ?dgr
Iahi n& N' Mrhitu qut' sr{
nuld) foundadon. dosing tLe ol.n
iles in rh€
Pocss
(.ig ro.r4)
d ipponmr .f {rm; rnd folil
rh. h h/hms n o€ or3n'6n
i1u B.,noddft.diqr 0) Prln r
d6rsn for nnps of t?5r.. (l) For
$! bsqh€. (r) (ut nnlrs ofrhe
.llo*anft s. (1) sbnins (nrallr
orar rh.l.ft cdsc,lar,h! lldnnp.
kinmld bsi:c. riqltr 3id! lp dtr
Fig 1a3 la) cpmwkdsisft
ld) tackirstua hd.nod 6los9tbal
l.) Assenbted nn|nodut$ ||ith
Es. 144 la) DxQr: td tabbed ea tuetare. (b) sewhs and quirins a
hbs b 8ilhs (c) tunBJ inside $hk hand stithks (d) arctNad uhdq ldp.
srbhrns, le) eLpht hb searc, at o eov,4ed Mh zisae st:bnirc.

216. (1) Plac 6r nnn :r ovcr rlr $!
*!rh. tour tabi n nrips a li-
'i3 Lo3crh' (r) oP(n.P.t$ aod
rlt.xarrioD ol ft nnrs rhd
qUhg3hj6o|]irinqandbp|ab|ic'
stbhi@|ha|rsInceabdanfu|h
,b aadi')dd ddso4at
t @
rri\ed
'"F p)r1n4 ba ab4 .a-",
rop ol 1i,. baft,3 Pri( Lhl s(ond
\{ith4j t|[ !d3s b be fa'ned
hgdhtinid'lhbLl8hJlllaFr
(5) op€n r& {.ond sup rnd
hgh'rr D6i 'ht ram. (6) conhu.
aanunil'h.rrahe/hhlsdr
(Fi3 l0 ri) (7) td 'lE 'nodulcs
trdhodi d$dh.d il
.lornins
rinrh rh. .dss w{r ddubtd bi
hg Gcfu| Lo"Th. Donbr. &ndDs
buirr.ftd! fbu miio,- {nr+
nrips for rlre tur nnFolb ing
bdorslr.hrg (L) trlgD bl b6L-
h3 (he tid olft rhre.rarsrd
dgrr (1) $ rsh' sidsLlins.
liBl l'nins nnP setr rhe md.Lrnrs
€dssola tuur rablc sdp5 and
rhc bdrins losc'hd (:r) op.tr and

217. ,' ,''i:,';;"':

218. t
t
t
\
vvvv\
^4..a.1A.,r

219. :'/1//.aa/

220. ll Stuffing
sr!.fED arrrrJN.
SIL"ID APPLIIU!
STUFFING BASICS
SrurFrNG
ru.nd lolDLt iri5os rlnalkd
r.) NrNd k, rrlldo'r, Giss

221. ins qunEd or arPliqucd 5hrPs
ro
suide lulls'
oI nultds
trp of . n.rds bol lonB looush 'o
s, $diw r ih uodld qrruE. r
blurrd lunug iedk or sk$..
d"jn€htrcdFP(di|oht!
p$ln|gnu]]ingagdnnlh.{ann]
llnruglDur Modd LrisL{dtI Ions
Glsrtd arulLqu.. oll5. sisqLa.
puk wl sll.s) Mh |n'sc prs
surc on rnc ouGid. r \dl 6 stu{t-
$ilrd
tr rrPltFel shaP$
q hrlf.
lor .onsnor numng nFnhu$n
.nousr ror rr d.rtion F suFlYc
rioD hbi. $nh lnnd $Dg (Fig rL r)
stuiirs la) Datn)ne lhe edees
4. lb) overcan and te) hehrabne
ne b md. ldjr<ni nunbs ino
STUFFED
PRocrDURr5
piat fo .n|h?s, rh {ufiloq
or hl,ff rlu' h6 h(n ar b 5i{
GEftrb hnndhngDcisn''
0' l]g! l0t) B& lrr DirLad
roD hhn. ro hnns hb ,doaql
stifetJ qdtltns. tuiqts atie
shges: lo eadet. (e) Gndded

222. tor rlr! d$irn ir-i. rh!
Nr.rdlN autlls on
n(Llr,,hf hLrr L! i boor o
n,p.:. {Etf rtL! j thnlhL
dBao irLg LL t HrnLnr rhr
olru'irr5Jlri iktuL
NoIIs €r V-aRrATroNs

223. rdd , r o,rr linil]g and finm tr b
nuficd (.is LL+) Ifir!Pndid
((.1LntLg lr 5) L' rlr fsr
rusrrirs b trJro Lh s] ! tf
'hr h4 brhDlr rhnr q(lrrd
vdk r $duLnkrR' iLln fg
sh,inkisr rrd'ni$ \,Lh
nn.hhg. bdbr rhr m.lnDg tr
tor nuffiq ((h) i,.ig L!5)
Ards$ i,nl op.nns' { q(
sputr ntrrt a.tlicr"s tr,l,ll
ler b fth o,hs iNid! rh.
!
mddithelirhA'hldtrgl'hols
rrnrids in ,hl {ebn! ru'h r !*
Jlr thr hlq!) rrir 11'!
n,Nrrn,1r, (o n.,3 rr i)
suidd rdhod ol yi,n nqroo
rc rr mrkdn?prao iLJIrd
Fis 11 .5 ro lun srbhins-autinett sh@es undebcbbtl: la) stuh hmsh
apeni@ brced be@n thteab h the @ve d the dns (b) PaDse to dDfl
betuen the tay$ whte sli.hiret LnEh slr.hlre ztd 3tuhne 14 Pad wth

224. R.xEEd d'rr.d
{uirrhs n N.
rtu mng ldr ol 'h. lining AI'{
of fabr!
sluL
qb6rins basc rlr
rDp ovd Lh! ldns rhe rp Iabn!
nc& ro ridgc ovd 'h .dss dI rlr
oul ln]ing l lul fdlldw l|thc 'dp
orrr rhe ourrins hu ,Lso rhc .oloF
quihns n.alkd sh.do* quihing
risuis{i rbqtuund J
bkkgFuod $mponeds benefii
non rdrrt&r !r,lJ.d q kiis.ab6.
Fb 11.7 (a) Dsisn tat byeted s6ed qdtirs M atas hnbeted h
adnnehstud lb) crd6 ir tayat rl
FI!11.6,Layfusfufldquihre
qnurd dnead ta) th3 h€a,1heek
and the bseraat at the @Mk lb)
The'qigglesljn|ave|bpheCide
(r) To prcpatu'hr onsinn d$icr.
numbcr 'h hregrcund dupc
Numb{1h€ niddk srcund shrP$
{ill app* ld bt b.hhd rh. fdE.
frq b. sFln irb No L.vds, or
brkground slxDs *r
'
Ahft
nuffls. thse 5h!p6NilL,pptar ro
rh. design {1) Trxr rhe da,s! on
'n. nsh,sidc oIlh. bp {:r) Pin
'n lnins.d ll't{ Lh,n:ll rhr:t
shrFs und.n.arh lhe d€5iBn wi,h
,h. ,r 3haP$ s1ufi rhrough dts rn
rlr lhhg d {hmtrgh op{h8' lefi
bdo( finishnu ac du in nn.h
i'g rrim (he e\ces rinint around
rh. dup.s. ({l cur rnd ptu amftcr
Pi.(oflinjns larss th?n dr *l
*2 shrp$ whd $rchhg ri od
5hnP{, tur b the ber( 3nd conriD.
utuil rh. ourLim h notrrresun$.
whm nuffhs .xrnd dr nrftmg
bilrsmund le!€k EN rlr rufiiru
sFu shipG ldr rh lnr,g
{ound rhe:r shrP.s (i) Rtp*r

225. )
l
:,
!
I
;i
a
(
;
-1
1,
*
;"i
l!
5TUFFED QU LT NG

226. *

227. STUFFED
APPLIQUE
PRocrDL,Rrs
sudt.for.urou6(rrs lL 8)
s'nh : hLri. sfc mrlci hcc
orroundaiof rilir. L|t( hrs
nutths. nnnLi?. rhc lortrdr,on
aPrriqu iL,ric rnd !r oul
illona!( nouDd rrrc trx.d
, nr.rr.n b trudrir,.ur
on ,ht f.t!d drrin$. adding
dnon.,ndd,i,s r& ?tl)li$e
Ran:llonifc ro rr [{[ rlll)
anoMnes sn@th\': ta) cip .ar
.ave euNa and tb) ndtch cn@'
.u!A.|h|eNa]sstwingshda|
r\etoutine lc) crp ireide anstes
btherab tne ld) r2pettnn ta the
dr bklebhd 4Prqw rFi bul
app\'I. Ir.3ld'nd rrf liqu.
or rrrbrlqiN r {rriqurvLLh
Fis 1110 l', b,.) Mott appld h
aFplntd rows the bas€ edse or a
iplliqt i, flaa orDn hon
rpprLqtri! !!u! (Fnrr !r)
Fig'114DesilE|Usfuledapeliqu1
app]ywlhs|tfrifuhda,relh
,i?9,
p"Nn7z-q

228. ,'
ta) sthBuchhs 'n dpptqa ltwdnas
4E
zs
?rF
#%
*ry
*1
as
1F
s%
(b)bddde chirs an appriqui ph b4
delak6|inysrbh6h|au7hhe|ald'alEmlkgdlh|inys6esl+ough|he
|aundalbnhfue'lafu|snchirglaaksjikrunni@slbhs'
wllnlwlrl
,1
srbhina an aprrbu6: ta) fun car
\|heh tains a canet at b) an
ircitu anste. ld) Band suitu the nee
iEezrgle'al,aysB|Uni@|aa
l€) swivd ||h tu needte n the
tundaid tat otu& rutues 0 wlh
4 sruft rrictrpprnL,Lc iftl] (i.fd
k]'sllling. otr pag. ],]9):
. rnkrupl Lrrrr.h g0rtrf
ns,rrf roq,orDd iPP,qn.
Jrh r(r) f Fis rr Lr)
fusea|ch$ae,lhebujldqo|
,s 11 12 Optiare tq mhtu 4ptique (a) satk
ehb'a)dery tooL lb) stbh Mh a Maow zi4s. (c)

229. xpplLqut 'hrcush asliL lur tnro
appriqu. (b) i'r ILg ll lt.
HaDd$s ,hEoFnin!ds.d
NorEs & VARI rloNs
shaPslorafP|i]]u.F]y|j.*
d.lrcatrd itrri.ft aik ikh'
lury shrrP sr.rd( poin6 rDd
'lc$mrdv0816gihmtnu.
$maLtollRncptrs tu sEi.
$tdD||cng.sinplll.dlhrpa
$'nh iJlqu{l fam ,lo\"n.* nL
t rzd d!{ n,!ir ,ryLqr. trr.
simple. prcrcnbl) rnLsh'.+ed
5haP5 onro fab,n \!n[ i ldd!.
s$yq and cDr4. ill nound whri
is h {nishr nt.hi,s. lollo{
ing o!,li!cs facd oD toP. B.tore
hrlhhc \eah ard dry rhc.n.n
lohdruo!tmlouEgcflr|nu
fc.t)cd edse ipl)LrN. bu rrsr rLE5t
rhrn ,ardrd rPptiqu.: !|Gltr
hrnL i$ mn ,o ,ht rold qi r
'llou ancs.
rr.?.rp,pfi p, rpoo
rior ,*u6 run€d .ds6 dr .fr
ou,on r lDr He4 hond ihc
ippliqu! tubnc cur ot. dins r
*an xlowirc nound rtr cdgc oI
rh. ldsr ofrhe p:pd. ruh rhr 560
,Lo\?nc. tu ,he hekaDd pres
Iim\, For apphqutr b be!trffrd
ftd1) .x(ud whdr tu nlrGhd
ondud Juplisrrs ,h orisnul
andpoinl lor po,rti whN all m!.d
odrh* m rn!*iLlqdn dntads
ufdrmerh rhr nt ynn.h.d
!dg$ or rlr arpliqu6i and !l,cn
t|tfl{nddoo|rcuDJ1h{$I1ly
Jndk{L'drclainslsdign
dhEsnFs I|,n ?rf lique is too
haDdld Alr, $ins a hlgt
Qpl\ui r rhe foundrion. dnide
r5prcbn l rhtftlor..dyd
!,rLd oPPri4n. G $E.nu' ofrtr
rr !!denr ssd 0nlRq? rh. prkrn
Ghn) a a(Dnd, cveD l.$ itrh.
nftish'sEh .ds$. .ur tr ,nu.h ol
posiblc whdr ic{rs rd ftc un
cnl,rgd oudrne on r|t foundruor
shouLd b. nioorh .nd trhod i(
Fq trKrcd 4d atlJ.l apptiqk.
turolftorhdDg drded,4:
Fie 1115. ta) sturins app@led
pelab|h|a!ghopdjhgsbbedased
when the ced* ctcte is 4diqudd
lb) stuttins liB cabt dtde hto,$h
sidcl, rhc fdutrdNrcn and
fin
aboY. rlr hbn! rnd all$! ro
qn and dry b.lon osins Linc
a !trn!d-aPPriqui dsign dN

230. Fq.1116 D$b'a tDt darked and
Ll( '!LLll$L rppl'qui. (lJ nncLr tLre
trmlL:ld {{tqu. Gr nLtrli (rr
rppl{f . {trllrns,lrougr orni,sr
,ld.d d nrttirl D nsnfdr
nL,r.,rdpfriqn sFu tro non r!
l{.}
(r, L(r 'hr.tr'rt d {.r
ri
Dg iri Pl&! 'h! liN'3 0\o 'rr
L.is Lr L3l hn' i,shr 'dr 0r
|h '+rt! 0rr!L nult ishtL\
looa appliqaI E ror n]l.rli rll
-w-
9ptite 'Dctuth ht-4Dd l'Pdth

231. x]4fu|pl@gewrh96fue
fm4 e, e r€@5 rufi4 @i@E5s beb@
pBMd d u''_'fed e4Md e6ftiB
STUFFED A PPLIQTJ i
!+&i!n oppr@d h6 dridtdhP bI
ft od sb dMg ,' hlde ne i{
Mr.€tah efawddie@tuttu
4i k a. ft e5d tu stuFr dNrhn
xLe rqrej.d 'tul e st e
Jss tu Je ,€,! !'4 4 & &re
l@&bi9digseiopeMed.u!,
6 h tMd@ nP tsmad $@s dir
dpp* b epe ft sd@dd tutd

233. ELEvATED
APPLIQUE
GATHER.ELEVATED APPLIAUi
rb q/
salhe is ih nlfr nto ert-
GUSSE'ELEVATEDAPPLIAU.
PnocEDr,Rrs
ho3hL!otr rt+,r simPl,i 'hc
brd.{ior (F,3 l l 1Lr) .d
{,s' ! lTy!fLhr dsgD r. ro
Lik Ll,. dtn{6 ll[r mL b. d.
a'r tl
,/ at /'\
L/ \! I I
L i-
Figll19Arargennsa|stean
'h dri;nl d. on cndntr,!
ongndnue!rd,!PqlB(Llr
EdrsoNm ods (ris r ! 22)
de|a|ed2pp]lqt.rheeancav€ed7e
r Lhcrrc(F,! | lr)
.;.; i;.;; l
;-<- -,,---<
I
Gwe,
Fi|11.22'rgered'end!fien||fu|
oltr.ll i r b! 'h€ dficrcDc
/ / --\
L-l t
-ll,/

234. onc ri& q R adi!(d 5id$
i.ls.G),q [! llo rLJ k] Lt'!
,Lr. sidd! LobLlLsdlJb i
ds 11 26 la) Ap|iqte b 6e dev2.
tb) Apptiqu,; s6hed and sp@d
\|th a Ine that 4ha8 he atbi t
rl !d(n h b! dod!J. r
Fie. | 21. ta) ladtpi to be ekvabd
(b) Apprqle sr'shed atu sped b

235. ,df() b h{ d.\d.d 6 rh.
il nnD) tLon' Ll'! uppDtr!
e\prnd dE sid!(n h r dc
llu onsmlshall nr rlt p si
b be nrcd on nr toundrLotr
oD 'hc tl{rnl snh orrh.
sus(
ofrouDdrior hb'ir Llrtrlr blor
rflf iw|qu! onllDG drro r
rtu!. aPpliqu. ind gN{r qr
hrrn! (oPhonar: trr(,rr n?r
r,n- r!r[) cr otr on ,h€
srE rh! d.id ?tl)Lrqu6 r
Fig1l27D,4hhgaquselfu|eb
skshnq and spteadt4 ih't side al
he tian4e la mabh the stevated
edgea|lheg6se|.alhal|hefoo
.'lrqsrheTprqb.aulinebils
(Fis I r.indirso,.r-b
Fb 11.30. ro qprqu-t a tund eah
nrlhbs Lh..nds bs(ho

236. athwe c1Dped b anaw sewhs ta
heeqesdacjrc|jarapDliau-6rhe
al|hebase]ircedqeo|llregBfub
boopoL lhft lalgt enoush ro
,xrd aPPritlu6 rhrcus[ dic
.ur 'mo rlr. found{ion t€ld ro
. nckhardPh rl[ g.s df rh.
louftl.ridtr Lo a
Pzdded $dic.
rhE raM.r:llor b .dol ,nd dry
apphqut d$is!. bding dr
NorEs & VARrAfloNs
'rht
chora bdwee!
srhcd
,rtur oldsisnqrret rtna, Dtru.
m(d hy nhnh q,Pe or rL.vrliotr
ruuld bc rh mon ippmprile fo,
th. dcLsn Two othti hdoc ro
befrB) a smtl slhpc rnd fte
cu$c .lldN lon fo| cd vrn, rionr
in the nu[.d rtrip.. ]od
srhenng
Frs 11@ F) PabhM* &siE1||ik
Bttan lb) ftianeb wk Me ede
ca'hFleL€bd awliqu6 ofi rd
nul hlgh{ L\an th. nnicipftd d.
urion prd.dir if $e ruffins ts
houndd in rhe corti An iPpriqli
8arh.ftd
all areund Ni nuf nno r
mundrJ rom ro LeeP fie middlc as
nn 6 posibl. push &e nutrls
dbg rh. cdss rhn d4ors s h
aknough nuftlns nrdihs thr ptr.r
dD8 soh.r'hi ro subdu. lhc
pu.kctug, fprart haod
sarh.nns
lnh bobbin $ftid sRrhdhs:
MR.hine 5d.h or'{ rh. ouddc otr
rhc rpphqu.. laftcr ford on rhe
sdhenng sdrhs. .nd l@d qv to
ro pr{ry. rhe bowd.finrron
oli su$fld$?bd ron. push r!
$r.d dga aM rorncG up rnd
du {nh rumns Dn.h rh.m dk!
sn ftn8. Md flnrm and snDo r rn.
ioP d sida \!nh dqside
P('
surFoi lill up R nd oPPed roo
$nh a shdt of bnriu ind fi nEh
Nrlt $uf ie liilernE(h. U* rh.
roundnion sh.Pe ,o lur eroush
ol rh. d.v{ido r,ck rht hyrs
roserh* roo$ly wnh oedl€,nd
.ppl'qli 10 'he lounddion snh lh.
baning ni.k Eide ro Lantsh sh.!
b r][ sunic fibrt.
Pu5h nulfins
btn.a$ l]t hRidns rhfttrsh a sln
cusd .onePb af mon dilfi
cuh ro md.Ednd &rn rheois lbr
n, eroakdrre cheng$dtu.ldtr
d LorL c'rdr o !don(L $irh x
'he cdg. oIa shpc 'hr mdchs
rhc ba*line Mn nN.h 'he Elorr
d lin!-urle$ rhc.d$ ii tutiln.
,ndsfd lersrl oL r]]. rt.vftd
Li'c cu$cl. sn be dnlied rlm'
{ill elsr en ipplqui o! a nanr.
olnk aP-[ or,rth. *trh
PE.
lcn3d ol the comour on rrr nnp
Fm snran.lor rclicL rppliquis dr
.ppliqu6 h d 16l onenn de
urd cdg..!trttung rhroush i!
opmins in rh. m.hrs rlur rRlh
G 'hclPpliqu. $ rhe loundadon ts
.!cn ard conrol dr shsping oI
founddion. A ilsisn $ih n,n)
dn.-.red aPPriqu6 b(oms lop
h..ry nd i.ds a nurdrr subnan
ta| roundRridn Id! a bs€. such 6
niII. he&l- hbriq, ba,lng prJdqr
concel of sdhctd or gBdLlYl
Io@s b
ri...n
pd.hwoih r.sisns
sd.d.d .l.mcds of ' d$ig! I e
d.v:rd {rh
erlh$ls
or
su$ec.
nd'h och €ldnion b*ril ld a lLn
rosdhs in Lh{ unDl, dshr.sidce
fac
s fdhior (Fie rr 12) ^fts
tnmb rhe dmtd ckn.trb m
$urftd tnDu3h dns.ur No drr

238. Figll.BHar.nfufuiEEnem|b
r]t d6n d [.ig[r afr- nutlbs
onc rlnd rh. lbuxhLon Ninh
otlhe nir M-suE aDJ cu rah-
ittLnultinsn rvilsrpohr
%/(l r,nn) Iron rlf n?rro{
HALF-RouNDs
*ltchd5ldebyside6tfomd:toi
with *lffnsercofd beseen the
PRocEDURES
brs rla ift p*ilkl nrdrupr
Ed, oY{laPPi!8, o! sk$v.d. Add
rDd un$fird *Rs, ior !,ikrl
\unb.i 'hr p{6 Lo indicde $e
srqnRrt or rppli.lLd! I'hE nei
lElt mu ipphd.dus rh.
lam alloranc ol rlE rEliotrsly
Lou'dn. rnli$ ln( d6ign b
u For rhe foundadon dt: Pi&e
cr prp. hmr bo .drcrh.
bek. {nh L}Phsrdshl
p,Pd or.odft(ul nab,lE{
around rhe edss or by hali
b snh , Iahncgi. ndkhg
odo thc foundnion-rhc.
a owrn( bsrde €:dr san
in,licned br rht ordo ol
da. ha.hh3
suiddhs
Fis 113s la) ctuut at ti2nsutal
d6@ts14and"3in|h3d6ig1
skebhe,t in ris. 11&. tb) cutu
aibtnht tu hebht dhet sltiins,
:.ul 6 IanI RPscd or fi

239. s.w iLN nsr . tu n,n
i rornrc (d) ir ris rr 16)
6. stuft rlt h?lt uDd' \,I'rr (rdq
b !trfiils olpqr:/s).unn!
hrLl rouid or. g,!ur ofhnL
la) Rasta 3f ip 11 h wrbn @) s'w sth t2 avq tha ad@ or skp *1
lc) ssw m gds€ at !tu ,3 a@ the edse
be raundatbr td) Easo tutness at thg entu at the dtips hto the badhg sean.
le) sew tianqlta, harratnd *1 h ptace
h,trcu'dilb'lt&tgt
'h! fou rbn \irh $msjun
rno r& .,ds oL dr l ll
(un1r b qE5rond qnh
rhe
b cr modr fton r hilr, dNd
nm hrr , {rnd :r nsh, ndl
nrps. lollDsins rhl rumbfr &l
{qum(ol:pplir or (b)
,Nndh,hrIN a,in
lr ) so! rlf ftn 'dE ol Lh(
r,i[:r! i,rL&! (]) EsL
rk n'llncs { r]I um..,d
orrl( hrlt rcuDd Nhi c siD*
,h.nrdL.Jdlni ii(h

240. Fig11.93sinv||aneo!<||sewnu
7. Rcnor rhr rnporry nabiue.
rcu s, *witrg l]1t lining h rhe
NorEs & VARTATToN5
rhsftdlnry tne rourdnb!
$dr[oraru.h'lfrouMLiB
diih{.( 50 addjnB hru rh€ ,liamt
ft (tu ndilt b $€ hrlr-round
ul half round A.tually rhd nu.h
deyadon i5 too ouch lor a tn[
oi r 'rsign kriunn8 hnl Dulds
tni
sEduallr
indes ro rha,
hcigh! $'1r! seving halr rounds
*rh non rhnn
jz
rh€ roundadon
vidr[ ddtn td rhc hilf mund nnP.
.r rh..nds oI $e nnps in ar our
nlltils ro build ul in hcishr.
rhe $aro b.6!(n IEU nunds
b.ne 'lj. d.dioE on eirho side
mft, oared by rhe coDstudon
smin'oabruade!chun€LAflr
ssins lhc lKt side of i hill tuund
b plre, u. firt *.nlinloldlm ro
g,uge i dnde for thc bpnidrins
GrliDe rhe *s haLf muM hhi. ro
dre sPlE benED rhc btsddrd sa,
and ,nc ffi ,rrL {tuE rhe seDd
side to dr loundadon (Fis rl r9)
durins sewing an,l discoungs
Hallmunds atu $(.d bd ftrll
Nh.n rh. und.6idc ofthc loundR
rion b+ns to buls€ and curl up
roo mudr nuffing shcn $3 nuuhu
imPed6 nirchins ,irh r asubr
rDishr nnch s.\ins Ioor or dr
Ratu.d nrip?iig E a Io$ rtld
v.sior ofh,lf rcunds rr G siniltr
b hllLruds in all r6p-c bur
Nc An indnr for he8h' afhr
stumng is not iddrd td rhc *ips or
rbnsl$ nir.h.d h rhr foundadoi.

241. 1.

242. ordunrgnrd,L.<nEr od
Fb 11.1o (a) Paten ta, a eraup ot rc
hat tE seM t@th,q. 16) se||ira qn
CoNNDCIED
RoLLS
PRocrDURrs
il tqd ro, ud, Dlr oaillLlc
{rmlD$ ( r|t rr {)
stpM! Lh! sluulLo$ d dia
dnnd.i rrrdirdr Du5
lN.d,fi.nadndd{5 Ll
r rrfcdi dc or a.h rdF
$LhqlliLofLh!rdhli!'{L
\!nh rh€ naLl ,ide or rlI frb,n
LD!0,!,pl(b) n F,! rr-r0)
(+.n) nulLLtrg oprugr ui di!
$rnt. trrnrq" 'Irrl b Lr"
iro r!o) rp{' Rous :h{€r
osDlsslhrougl'Ikde.dlAl0
'sr
m! onPag.zrq) rn,tt
4rr sds at stufred nk, la)
plat,
lb) sathet d lc) tanen he casngs

243. NorE5 {r VARTATToN5
onn dtrmtr for $. rbu1[.r
I0 rh. €si,Ei rishrlr !!o!.r d
.quidish fron, l]I rold su nr
(r).res rtDs hRak rrtr mus
lthbd[dhDd(jftrnull:
fk*cd n'br (r),i Ilg It 1r)
fo i ddadrd nnra(rorr
nncLr rhc.dss rosdL{s'h dr
risrr sidc our ri.forc lufiing (G) n
F,3 r1.{l surr!! r{,rL & hmd
FA 11 13. stutred nt Enatbs
la) rcpstibh actass th6 prgatdd as.
na. @ r@Ibh down the eentet al
! n ntrtGd,{r(s inro rh. rir
P(.Dtrr(d $'nrirs nr.r rr
.lGns,hr.nds o{? nfttrd r0rl
a,Ds ro I r bickgtuNd rrbn.
sunace rck stutted aa{ sewhs. 15)
(rtrprs{!tuduJi r $frlr' (b)
,nF,g 111+) Td tr,s 1lr roLL
sid. ofof. fibri. s.r rh. *.oDd
$ ,h. trtrnnffd alDsino,h.
$rE iohnr* hn
Pkc5
ofhhnc

245. :i()
X
c1It
L!:
6|iha|ehejghl'ch6oarcalElic
nsasuenn||o,|henagneddqlh
gr.s.mddhlLmgkLnlps'
r. $rth a hbn. nfr nririnsroDr.
bdNs arjrNr orhN fo
LrrrLE PrLLows
PRocTDUREs
D.nr or rdjoill3sqndn!
,hrc4h sPrs bd or &tg.r
'hr hch (F,s Lr +t) sd rlr
(Fig.lL 16l Edi4! !i!h
(6om). dn!! anorlr otrdLn.
11l(r rmr) ouFide rh.
d.frh r % (r r.m).*krd
Fis 111r RaDnd tud ovat patuns tu irk p aws: ta)
Entatse b $tinad he)eht (b) pal@hs
||it)out sean IaM la) sap6 with *iaaennb bp{ed nto tE
.Drhe6 or the oiEnat aurira. tb) Pzr*re vlhaul

246. $drnght5td*bg.'hdPiD'h.
(ond pic or L'tn. sln'Ch'
!nd, br nrhinc ovd €ch ou!
brl$L'lhLrB on eihc! sde or ln.
ldtqude $'m alloNar€ NLen
allor an$ dngonrlL) {ros.or
and nalnc Gea.r ro slu ,ns
Ntrh rniSh' !d{5 s' rhE
nurr,ns rouod or ovrt Pitio$s
Amns. ad Fm rh p'[ds hb
d,e lrller
rE-phnn.d smn.uon
. Fof a do*d amns€ntit oI p
lo h sdsln sid6 0) ro
.d3$ , Nt Pn isdli cpt.hry
.5 bdon sxins 'og{h& p{.
ronsdr 1r) [4rip ]c cdsG
qdhq \ih 'h) nirh$ iini'
irr. D lbnr or hklud!'n
pillors Hrnd * rhc pillo\s
qdh{ dln dn! rnipnildrc
q;ruchnnh
d6 coDnd
nnth'.ndcdPil|or*xnhfts.
r,ggdrdtrg. r kb5 (Fis r-51)
\j.w*rc .a Faat 4 ,. 4r6.t(.qa'a @..po1a 1f;o>na
il\
-C
,fr'
c
i4
li
-1i
li ,,'
\lt Z

247. lht tN a|Lo\qn(s ]nd dI |.d
oFrinss lnib. ir ir ]rk rr[
fronr. rh. ourr rinirgriL bc *iLLe
pr'.hu qk u aoFa'l or {di+'
p Ld!+!rq (1) l,! p.rl!r!
reighr rrrr lufii,s. nrd (2) rl{
(Fis Ll tr) Br!x$! LLsll{([dg
dtrhl,ftd rhrougMnr rr Gsng
prcrn d n ds-ih.d ror lir. piL
fvins rosdln orrrrlr d .dgs
tr-tr
EredbfIaDfrEh*uieddev'1]6
:T|
tftft I
|:
NorEs & VAffATro 's
vnh,ht ovqalr na of,l[ shaP.:
ma(y
drhr$
dft rhRn 4 (10.n)
!LLll,- difiqcn, u':' Glmsn.d
'dingks, ransl.! ild olaln.
rdd ,h. snourr erioinrcd fro
orllr lorslds (frg n 5t)
(l),urmLo8'L.ssinsbur
rcar-h|nich;sLthiid or
ni.hDr O) nr,s nufiiDq, idd a
r( nh(h{r by{]Nsdolr i,,d
lo\snllftlhmlghopnhgs
li) ro( rlt ourrN$ otdrpfun
o(1trc. (:) Fof!a!h p!Ll,hol!
G) s$! rLr! fror (o ar Linrg
.!r out insidc rh. *rn diplh.
5qn iroran(, rnd rm nshr snk
orr G) ![hhs ru dBs a rhe
'ht
rc-|rann.d rnns.ntnr For
nnrkd d rlE lhLr*! G,s rrrs)
(5) s,rrrsd Nkhoh throngh
t6) uol*! iand{J ln,l.
rillo$.
Fs 11a la) D8i9ntat rdte prk$ h peehdes. (b) paneth
will ssdr
tu)rhe @hlet tc) P€ekhote tte
G
o
0
n

248. LT T PLLC\']
j
rJard r., i.,: jid e !: !=i::i
@o
io

249. Brscurrs
PRocEDURES
hlcargthcf€o'$ch15.b,r$.
ibr{N " (2 an) h'gh..nlargr
a ha r" 17 Jmr) squr *o 3 {"
oo!m) \qN! rof i bsqi ,!'
( | :r.n) hLsh. $ln?. r r" O
j.m)
b&'orrr"(9on).Mr .ldns
ro
Dl or g(lr jdc ot llr l]s. ]
+ as*nbl ft Lis.uirs in , o\s
Loo* f,bn.,dra{d rio,i rrr
pla'r Ccr{ b numos on
nF roq ol brNG iogtrhs
qnh rrL qnrinss rosrd oD
oL ri!.u,G b dr nurr.d ro!! oa
o! rhe Ndde (FiE l.is)
,n Lark rick rhr Liri,sro rlr
z riom Lhira raLnic cur i b:s. to'
bP hLnc. cu , brcuir lo. ndl
. Fo i Lr.ur I " (Z idn) liq{
,DAh ford
Prsr
h s|h sid.
. .tr3Lisdtrlf,e.rur)li4q
rn rrtdd Pl6r b ad sid.
\h
</-
a,
I
4f'

250. Noils €- V,4KATroN5
!orr\' {urred ro 6hb|nh nr
iou, ncss of a b,(u( n.vs
Pu5h
numnsi,no rh. corids oIlh.
s.wiq unnulled m{s ro sulftd
size s{rion larg. con*rudions,
*cdons s b. rd,ncd..nd {urr
An,rkrnareard sP-dier
nans Nnh pa,lcins fdr a blo.k oI
bt.trts (r
) DEv z crid ol squse
norc bi$uiE Dnv 3norhrt gid of
enla{.d squRas Io} rhc pkard lop
df ,hl brcuiE Mrk tu prcn loc
arouDd borh panms (2) wnh,
f$d!,ere nnks. rr. rlt gid tins
Gmn r,ma and prd, F{rin8s onro
$e lebnc cut for tht b,* .nd lne
'or (:r) ssq rhc bp b Lltr ba* Ph
,ni!h all p,nncr *aslins and
rlat nrkmss D on. dn{'ion
pld loradon RcPsl in rhe oo$
dirt.non (Fig. 11 tq) (a) as@hle
€rh hiscuir LhFush a dn c( inro
al&ugh rhc frdnionar biscuir
h6 a squne ronndarion. { plrlL
o! eael) side nso 3n:bl.sbGcuib
ro Gc lbh non,squacb6e
(FiE lL 60) Enliqlhe b6e pn-
b on. barr rhe d6ir.d d$efion
Fiq. n *. ro quie sew a blocx otb@uxs ta) B*e andbp Ftum Mbk.
ine nut'pb u*ur,, dth pt at l@rare m*Ed M sdntines. @ rq atu
base,u'th.nrdqdh1|idmdhecwikinv*dpldba|mMbEfu|
(c) sttuhed in iE @e Mrad s6
Addirronal ExNrE and l.vels
acd bdNq the bi$ui6, f.iviis
sleded bGcuiB unsturrcd and
crumd.n. and lurowhs rhe bil-
lowins hbnc in th. cenk! G.[e! ro
sn6d36 fta bjscuir venrnon
rojurif) ,r1e Eee, tner aE Edm-
suhr lons ,nd slcndd but
prumP Th€r aft .onnrud.d l'k
bG.!i6 h all Esp(c bur onc
lnn.adolip].onderrsid..
only & .vo oppcirc sids lur
pled5. ,nd rlo$ pla6 arc alM)s
ndncls rd a sEas. pitdn.
dnedo!. inccIins rh.l.rstL of
th. shdL lidG of rh. rcrhngl. br
tht anounr oI rh. d6r.d d.vadon

253. PEAKS AND
VALLEYS
ainnlemss.hrq!a6edby6e
PnocEDLiRE5
lamlfu4l$i&onredhg
squrks(Fig.116L) sd Llr
asqnm il lh. d.ngd DEIi 1
rhr nqnumrmr of on. 5id.
oldr! rlrtrgl! (.Ls rr.62)
side or rLrc squ;i. (Fre Lt 6l)
{{rng nihnoE b lach rixt
per, Lqh,I F{k rh.Fnrs
nohcr'ddLea.f\lloruntr
n.r pildL r rhL Drdl.don.
ttrjGr rht ren nd. or lne
Psr,
Pohl Ar rht lrDal.ore( dr
Fb 11.62. (a) Mth a mpas set b h
Nk s tunEtrat base, dtatu 3 tiarsE wih th@e ewt sides. tb) usins he
atbwance:, and circt$ l. ) 10 mtk he nneB
Fie. 11 61 @ sew tu site at he p$k ta ane
ew the rei srtu, and tc) the nen teavirs the
e& at the tuse /b) Match and

254. Lh! qNdr((a) nr.ia5 rr 6j
libi !n frg 6d) ih ighl
ir.
Fe 1 t66 la) Peaks sewn beehel
Fa I I 65. sew tuta pdks
4|elhel
wth a sean ju* ro thc tdh ot the ti6t
l[r bN iFLg ll67) io.d'!
plh!trl|nqorfinull
rh,lth6. r. nrfrrn
Nor[s & V,tRr,rrroNs
p.rL |)l doi(s Ldjllor {(lr(g
,0u!Pa|\Lll{(lDNlUj

255. ,"Lti:':

256. Structured
Surfaces

257. 72 UsingDarts
DART BASICS
SEau&Nc DARr 5rIMs
,haa,rs k gdhr i,r tronr
. !!hd' 5$m3 i dnr or rtr
r do$k']rircd drL. rcllk
. .riP rh. rr,m!]l h" (lronr
r. sN {nh ! sinal€ drc:d $nor
( r ) r[ I r rnd or rrr rJobbn
LhqJ b ft.nd ot rtr r(dlr
knd (r) rtrrrhsd! rhc !(dle
rdl! R$ Dd 'h. tr(dl{Lnd
'rr! Lhr{dbs guids r rnsiDn
G) Brgu{trlhn8vih1ludr.
rhLh5LrouLdLr.dDstr lrrl(
r,DL{i!h 'ht Lh'{d nn ar
nrlrkfto rnsl. { fmdF ou,

258. SINGLE-PoTNTED
DART
mouth or$eVwhth s alw:y3 *
po ii or the V wh*e ihe 6brt ele
PRocEDURES
r b. dtrrns nil*.d, dnfr l
!orrh. diir *.. nraichr,
niudurd ron aris rz o
Adal)l or.ollh.lollo!Ltrs
Ndei nlh ,ri! &4 kd .ds! n
"'n!'d, d[ di* I&N{fu hl''l
4
,l d,f0,!irrr|a{d (rr3 r2.)
Lrnixr an trturi0n (or d.prD
dor Gr d.p'h) w l lulniuk N
a Fora shsh dar: (r) E{eod
rh. oPPosir€ edg. (r) aur
nor ns i/'(! snE) 5hon
of 'h oprGtrc !ds! G) spard

259. ri'',u'sahtnaspuaFfuntor
a si@le dat 14 Ladlin and bgh
ot the daft. lb) Pauffi stashed n the
dadkEghighla@bkdoppEib
6de6.hd lc) e ed beetBttha
fufuddM@depk'dh|hedad
e2M n d p'pet p'td. (4 Dan tu
cdsjd66padbgekdardEedga
stuiqhtue m a pTet
Bb.
le) carccbd tu ttte tude1t ttu)
(5) cur rhe dac oFn. R6roE
$e!qsl€hd}orja'g.ddd
(Fig. M). (6) To n.I. &6
tibn onc .dgr thbugh fi.
sft !d3€ nd rcl€r *F (t)
Nder ,{'' 'rrridr ondidr
d. d'djd r.drmn6 oJ
ti. paftn' Ni/l nori rlr st-
,tor ruAurnnr c
d€ oist.
ddos rh. rdp.daogdrr dar
a' dans silL irct.ft, a nE
ddr6 {iU Lr ldigd rrdd'4i
cur our rhedM. (5) Ab the
l}.i,t conroul (6) cll rh.
(l) cormrins dc drn lin6,
(2) surL $. ptts, sprntd
by : disdnc. .qu,l to om I'at
ft anoud oJ rrr ,rai{d dda-
ddldqrj', b ' niP of paP4
vid. 4 Lh. b6e 6 th. epar&
,lans. (4),{b lh. lds of Gc
Ebrc the e'ics b rhrl prs
Hg'12ns/€€h.and.predpel|en
trtur9wipt*6 ta)Paw.d
fudelda|Mdepb'wlh|hedafu
dabl m a papq patch
lb) P'dffi
"nhEc6bu6o||Edfudadg6

260. ',,.,,
,( //
)
\":).'
aha,Deh,9ed5h;
i\
A
tve 1o lrabht euidettus taha retu
du( inu,d .uNing rsuks
noFbn ri i,kc r fom
doDr or bo\l (Fis 1.1 3)
n i rI r to, r, ( , l0 D , r , ri dl!,
drrrrrld LJd?ri,tiL/ri
I'o$ oD rlr rsh, rdt orrr hl)
se'is or prsr ,67) I'ordrB
3i+hr 5ids on da s r ri.
contr6: (l)rri!! Ltu 5ilhor
(21 [nlaqc,rsi hordr]ll
.tuu b r! orur,//Jv
rr,!(b, rqurrihs ,h r.DsrrN
olrlr ilhour Ind eDlar[e
lDls (!).d qrrh.rirF.
orrrrdrb(F,s r:6) rh.s.
n.'r rQi+r.sidcd Pdr,, hb
spx.dd:nr:(l)tk!Ll(!l
tutridr$5 c)lnLrEL,hr!l-
6rnt Rrriremd drL ri{
'JE onn ,I dr A.(d rJ.!l
{orn c) Dnrd. rht nrhotr{r
!Js!) 15) .oFp{. Llrrj11,0,

261. ror Enred fonns slucd Nih
nul'iph ddi enlnlc and .qulEe
rrodrrts rhe non pEcne aM di
rblE Gsur6 stash rnd 3prtad li.s
soft*h.a in bdweo rh.
8ks,
:nd fin xrd erral8c-rnd .qui'.
djdaht 6 r lom.a ndr r pE.
.tr r lne la@ rrrrhd f
ndhod d{ add5 aruund rh. dars
6 ( rcdmc rnid. lhE dnE lhnh
ol rht Jancd form an cfi.( lhd
r. ftss rlr df6. dPenins nr
ian dro{'icsof'nnDcd
dai6, l{st
Prcs on r p,dd.d
hondius. rheo. r poinr pft$,
d'a ll aid rh. slnpins of rhe
rabric lbrn Fhser pN darc
4. fo rirnl rrr .ds. or 1 d:ned
rorm. hhd or firt rht cdse. tin.
qirh
a duplicdc or drc dan d
rhe drtb. roslbilf. r orkr
5hap. ol a drhd lom sw rhr
.d36 ro a ba*.tr' fion $c
sn r . .enenta, bdne :AbB
,a d t1F dr4) b ant""ia4 tre,,"i.-
Nots & VARtAfloNs
!s thr gfts.and{ tr nclnod
b, advcmroE ruD wi$ daft
w'd on.
suidins
pnhdple in
riir tu lnoum rhord by dr
d,'cpadi.€ frrh pap< ud
n€ous! {rh rhc rabnc ro crc!.
i:d fr,n nEish and dryhs
dans Fdrgd riminins and dlon,
de .(r3$ b b. unftnry mnbmd
drhbiri) of rhe ndhod ex"torc
wfunonrclGanisuc'U*lne
r,tnirre Edhods b d.vddP
Pr
6s b nn..dimedonil tdlc
who dialrns dans bl 5rishins
Rnd spftadins. rrr $idrn dI rhd
dciuL d.vdidn m,y tre dnid.d
rh. err cdg. cn plfnidg rhe
drb ror a circularshepr ro b.
€nleq.d .od equalicd, ,noi. drtu
Prcduc a motu pdr.dly rouoded
Idrm ,haD lss ,lans, and r nlhoF
dn6 ro modd rtro x smoo(hty
bunded Iom rhRn r sl,shrlr cun-
ing lrhoudr For drnpL. .v,l
sLaps rcquir ooE d3r6 d rhc
Td nidtrnrnd rhc o,lss.nnd,
quali:t n.rnod bdrq. risurlnc dr
o+ilar pnhn lh,r. 6 rhe sjthou
dr dr shadoLv oI I ftrte.diEn ion-
ar lom rnrsin€ rtr dric .ld idn
or lo{.nns ftc Jea oI r]t pa(dtr
shaPe vhilt k(ping rhc oub si.
.nd lhaPe, lh. si mddshdorq
rn. $h. ro. rhn Erlt, s .onbr&
ion ol dne b6si
Pnn.ipt6 rpptr.s
b dd rormrton: o ) rnl,Bontnr
.'tuale half rhe d6ind d*?do/
dcpth. (2) rhe anroum ol hbic
Eno!.d by a din xr irs qidd
Frnr
Poim.
(l) Aft tr dnhjns rh. dcrc.
rcflkr rlr shap. oI rht o.giid pi!

262. siul. d:n Gl$h nl sp'!d) d'd
dmN 1hl nor d rh.silhoudr
(.nlr4 udqulEo aE Lhe noi
Lhnr$uDdflllom$L hcl)td{r
Erp.d ld rsr r'!i ({ljtr{ 'rt dc
\ludBtufa,hldns {! add.J
rfrh. v,nishinglroins oI nrn
drE o! oPPqne q dF(' cdscs
,hQd5 0r rlre ntrv.. datu .o'v-l
J(/ld nrDl !rry$ I nilhhsrDb
Nirh nrshr irrnroB (r1 r2-sl
ry\L
lul .ddi.{hi!hlPfus
dinofbnnt.d fri.. d..o]1. I
rr.d d lr od nrlltbr5r.
rcEsed on rhe
PrEn
an adiun
v€rL as orsd. dars (Fis D r0)
rlr linc n,d .rod ou, rronr ir
Nr!( (!lip {,d rm LINiqo
oLllr dll0 !$rnrLLr td $ri(
nof ldo,. (rhDg n( rpcx ofrlr
+_
It
Fis 12na sutuce tu6: (a) Fded b are side tb) AdtGted ar he @t@ tal
nabhhs eds6 at the bse te) cnteEd avet the dad setu td) caerhaped
pni4hns dsd hnned at lt€ basa

263. ,i 4 ri ,ra. A .r f f! 5:t.ti i n or ,:r -
i/. r) i tu... 4 ; ia, t,
.
t+r) r9r tu ral
lsr !i,r:frr!r-r 19 ri,Pr! i.q i il
!.|t: );||'!;|n
q.a
a'tjl1,|
lrl
! N.LL fO \TEf t,;i
@ '\i! @c lrft irt d! iic rj. oi qerari o r
4!Gq J!lporre::!horen3trri,/jd- ii!i.
.af,! n,,'|Tl tl rF1fldr lif,r ir! n. r

264. ir,..t .rE:i..i r-,- ir '_ ,!r!r r!
rrni.( li ri-
in.i
fifir.ir.\
I
rr'-ir!tf!! i
Itf i
ii3 !i!.r!,. rirqti:i,!r-iicr r, f,.ti.?

265. DouBl E-PoINTED
DART
NroDs & ViRrAno\s
bl! N r.lrL{tr lAs r L)
rhr rrrrrrLrr drL{ro rint h
d..i,r h rLr r,, D.$ orrrl hN. r
$n!hl]]llhLo|$*l!Nncd
Fs 1242 la) Dobte @Dbd dan a
Inpensa|e|a||1fu.|fravedbf
rhe d'd tb) cutuhe dad+Fhd
(rLg lr L|.drqtrtr,gp!:nbn1
!k.?l.rrsd,naourrr( [n 1

266. $Er!
the dnn€nsionariq, of dr
l,bh..dtr{rudioi r..rt&, dln
panm', u{ gridd.d
Fp?i
'o d.!be
ddublc pohrd dar6. combined
Nrh nngL.poinkd datu d rhe ab.
ndcdccc(od{.h'lanoniB
rhc dcigr dr 'hc 4shr d wruns
sid. olrhelabric (Fis. 12 lr)
scuu*clipping rdatu hrdrir
prurD lakens rhe nrms$ of rhe
rh. wbng sid. oL lhc tabff pull rlr
tabdc dovn ar fte ends. w]ren
snlhed on lnE dshr side. th€ ridbk
tulds suppdn h.igtu a, 6rh .nd
(Rdd ro's(unng D:n sea'ru' on
P4€
267) ro €varuft a dan pn-
squ,rc ol hbric Lo.k ( bolh sida
orlnc sd.hcd ioplq rhq willb.
qunr dificrcnl M!6uE dre hbric
Th. bctorc dd msurm.d rnd
fie zfGrdai merurement reld a
a ursd mqsumd. Afiri nnchins
non h.ld jun abovc r fibnc
Allor b cool and dry b€fore mor
ing. Td libil'zr ioddY,llr a.k
r][loNpoinboL r rchctb r nrti
Unrsurl fonnarions rtsuh
whcn 5l€ndq dans re *Ich€d
s.ulpd rLr Lcnsrl,. Nidlh, and
ilnedion oI rhe drc, rh. *p{&
and \qons sidr nirchins. coin
srio6. rolil5 on the surfa( become
licun'i? daign .l.d&s ddn
conspicuous. somdrn6. G,n Gt
sulp€d &bric rhn undrrlirs rh.
+<>
<>++
<>+
:++
8:84
o:o:o
ZA\
VZA\V
A\v7x
VZA\V
\VZ
++
A l^ l^\
++

267. 11hr) r,: t ceN1t. .1 lnr"r.-r-, di
ir int ro. r r.era i,t gF
J q4r ! irrlr I' r it ii: :nr. io. of, ri ilf 1i
rer,a.r! 5 !, r.: {trjn,r.,k r,i , ri - rfur
4&n.! iG r 4s ad 5!llir.r r; i i4 r 5 r r.nr n
!r, kirn !r i ji
I , r , i,.1 ,i , {l
rini rcFo., re +,iii,?!r. r t I it ! Gi
d.,rrNrir{ ii! ne,!l Di,l! i I i .d, ,jdi r:!,,f
i..,
lii.ri.,ff r,k',f ai,lj.Nrir,h{/,q, ?4
DOL]ELE PO NTED DART
rlrjir::aoiTLili:!''{T(roiNxl!i,.]'rdll
d,n Ai ir-..:.- !i re lFr r. !,- er oi a! r;ni

268. DOUBLE.POINTEO
+ ifiiil oliJiui !@:r !( , !r4
drr r? liqlr { !i b.rr 3iu:!
j
t'
Vrt
tlH
t
:t
finH.tlJ.ri

269. 1.
+
+
+
+
*l
*
I
t
*.
*
-t
*.
'#

271. Manipulations

272. ffi,,,W
73 Combinrrtions
TEcHNreuE
VARTATToNS

274. a

275. rEiNJlo6 ./ r4de.tshrd
,8ue he loh.
qh tr4lki r 5

276. . {n it rs5 i n. r0!d!d l.F.
lei,h.r,:- hri h-.,,.r J rr. isd

277. CREATIVE COMBINAIIONS
i , .:f .D iiirsr.ir .i:clr-.,i-i.i
.di n '. i:i,'i. jl
]i]ifi r -1 rr l
]
i .. .. i .I
'
,.1 . i
:i r .r !11,r r ?ir!r o,-nli ,l,irderrrr
i&5:!.1'l(J!.r,rl:lLIl!2flierl(r4'riigl]
[email protected](r Mr il

278. :\:aa.}8,
.'RJ'
\$.

281. s
l;tit
7
j:l
,
illrl
plli
-znS
)r*"'
-1 .
i'+r.'l
'^.

282. r
'1"
iI
t1
tf

283. '*-t-
, --j,' '.r'
i" ,==

284. Appendix
HAND STITCHES
BAcKsrrrcH
becinningrcPhcingaLiotitheeid
trcm ight b rert (s*s a d re.
toN f refr haided) Br is a threrdcd
lrmm) to rhe rcht of the emergrn€
thread tor an *n bac!'dkh,
make i nrrh 7r'(6mh) on3 mder.
pmm) ii rrcft ot rh€ .m4s ng
br n3 r of
y/ (rmm) h iron. Eri
mrh re sdrch ig (i) h Fg.A.r) rhe
sdrhe5 Mak is 2 nrth h" ( .nm)
or z" (6hm) h front of the eme4
is thred rirtu the needre in@ the
hbft %" (3mh) b the r shr ol the
Fmm) n nont (b) ii Fiq A r). For
rlgme.eightstyeod$e5ijfrh
Fig. Ai. (a) EEn backtteh lb) Har
ba.kstueh l.) s€utiE wrh tuek
BASflNG
b eri tss$ dr dn*oE f eri.
handed).For €ven bnting. make

285. lengih I b&kas n rront (h) n
Fi!.A )
For unryen b6rh3,hk
of rhe slrhce((b) n FsA-2)
OvrRaAsr SirrcH
/'" lrmm) bcow se ar edge;
mow ahad !" l6mn)for $e rc{
rt' {6mm) :had.0d fr" (rmm)
LADDTR sttrcH
n]tchn€trcdicdlom'3htbeft
(re86e a dredotrir €t.hmded).
bke a i rch
Ln" (3mm) ong N de
nd r,,(rrm) on3 hside the
(",,'.)-1
Fis A.4. Laddet *hh la) ct6ns
a nrd rf pnn) on3 is de .
aPPLiqud! forded eqe.wrhdr
,/t" (3mm) ahead. reep is rte
eme'g ie th@d iu* uder.he rord
ededseolthe!pP|iq!aAit{ir
(b) h Fg.Ar).aid refer 6 (oh
BrIN:DirrrcH
sed rc aPPl46 a folded edse rc
righr rc err (rsss:rrdr4bN ir
reit.hmded). Br is se ned e !P
ihe 4P
q!€: rod x" (3hm)ahad
nrhs.pullthethread hut (G) n
CArcHsrircH
rrom left ro right (rd.*e i direc
rm, ' eftnan&d) on rhe wrcis
cdch oie or irc ihreids or rhe

286. OVERHAND SrrrcH
co*,firn hind nrh 6ed ro
io i No folded or fiikhed ed8es. d.
to reft o. rert rc risht To join M
folded or finLhed €ds6. ali€n rhe
nit hes. Fof q+ nit.h,,ngerh€
needre foMrd %" €mm)ii ihe
chdcdge@thel:bftsdeh*ih.
Rui\iMN6 STrrcH
wdkins rrcm idi b eft (trEe
r d reldos r hft haided). dd ihe
wte.sdthhngdddd]esPae
S PSTITCE
ts rcrred rrcm r d'r b reft {r*e6e
ar dir4oni if eflhanded) m the
edse ol a sing e-ford hm or fidns
lldvin3 fdrErd 7/' (6nm),
P
.k uP
(6mm),
Prk !P M or thrce 6@d,
P! de thread geirt b s{urc the
SrABsrrrcE
iwo :d on, ( r) P6h 6e reedre
rhe fab&.
{1) tush rhe reedre ba.k
myoutolihe|abrcsEh*tchigs
TAcKNc
hand s rthes. ofren 5Eb* tched, tha!
join one e em.m b ano6s r coF
TAIoR TAc(s
bedamagedb/othgmarkigab
the Pd4n 6 the rish. side or 6e
tuhd(.workry frcm . shr 6 rert
(de& a drredoErf efi-hnded)
be@$ lhe nitchs cis.Ar) c4
reno€ ihe Partsn To Fxk M
laye6 ot abr c ar oi.e. lave v*t
(lcm)and ihe dreads b€ftei
WH|P SmcHlNG

287. GLOsSARY
APPI raur,
(r)sma 4shaPed e6r of fab
6b' . (2) ro rdd a 5mdr otod ot
BrAJ
(o4EheideosrhgEhoi6e
BODKJN
qe q a tuer' 3r P. d$iqred to
CRosscMlN
E.458
EDct:srfic
f; (r.smm) froF a ro dd edge o.
sem|hewiththelabl.ishride4
FArRrc-SAE MAru<rar
nsier^rrr,5 r! hP p&m,nen,
ren4o6/i./ ot' atnorc oi ,re
hcnd€d fdbrr beto€ 4bs rifker
hdude:(r) Pii4d dht/rsEd
fordr (2) s! $o, nips md rcrh* in
*an a6hi.s (r) B*.n8 md 6i
ror 6.ks. t4J Bhckb@i chak da k
e5(5)Anemebc md wcc
'e cr p po iis (6) colofed pfl. s
ddeie6riibrrGs Percik
made by BercD w a shsPerofo
qsss (7)r{han c P$! with
0rt&m e d4 Nq{ 6e q ,E
(e)a (r:ck
Pssed hro rre toP wlh
ft.hins berore r fades. (r0) re|8rhs
FAcJNc
FI\'6m Pluss
FLUTE
FoL DATIoN
Gn.trN
IlrM ArLo$AN1a
IRoN
IINJNc
fa'twthrisksidesrog{he|
NEEDLE MoDELUNG

288. NPs
NorcEEs
(^) mrkh$ on the des of P*.
iedons ouiside eim rrokic*.
PrN MATCH
SIABILEE
-(r)ro aarc
eadeGd
*itd n3
or rabd.r ro 3ql G) ro add rrnre$
STAa[zER
SrAYsflTcHrNG
shghtsdthhgbymachhe
,lls:ie.sd/nit h is p€Ena the
edselrcmjrerhrigaid'whenrhe
{shi 5ide or r€ sqsitched. rr. .
STEAM BrocK, SiEAM
PRrss
latiom,adju* rhe rord: md ur a
SnrcH-lN-THE Drrc[
ftgered€b/6efo|dofadGed
STRnTGIiFGMTN
STR4IGHI oF rHE
FABnrc
hiddedonpaneftbya|ong'
SuForK Pu-.as
hlhisboo|.s!tro|kPutrsT!eed
PREis
QurLr-As-You-Go
Mdhod oI quilths thd 5ErE by
eDlccE i6 smrller segmenB whkh
''hp
quik isl apa*ment quikhsi'
RucHE, RucHrN6
rtmPoEr, hshioi wr tins, ottli
SEAM ALrowANcE
sPc beseq $e cu! edse rnd
SEllTDGEs
LensdF; edsPs dw@i rabrrc.
-rftr al rbsre, or dde usd
to add imEs b hbdc ( r) ftmf-
abft r tEhed. (r) r€hPohrt
bondedbtheba.kofthefound&
areftlly bm aq/ nom the ( rhs
STAY
-{
)IoPftftanaf P! adon
36birde. (2) s6birizii3 hbft iurby
lurr*ry unden e the entrc m:dp-
lladdlrohedsebed3e|iP:d,|
3ayunde]es'hemaniPll:@d*c
tion ot the frbic.a round*ioi, a hc
G e, a sr p or 6bnc, Ep., of r bbon
'he h6d of a P sied :migems9

289. TEMPLATE
ToPsnrcH
btdFq:emontheightside
or ih.6bf . rhdd 1r arc, u ne
UNDERST[cH
-ro *ddr 3drth b, h&hhe
fa(e rabrt. rld,(r.shm) frcm lhe
ingrrcmrcningtothefrciirrrhe
'ADDrNc
SELEcTED
BIBLIoGRAPY
BooKs
th,t s.n.d appbpnr. b Ey ab.
r.d
and considncd r woih dr
h. ifr ldutrd onerir c €c}niqu.,
id.x.oi.!cnrhi thrinq6€d
'hd roilss dosnt indude any of
rh,lcoBEr or nd$1i3 mdi. 'han a
skd.h or a d.finr,on inlilu.bh
b hq bur nd {oud io juniry I
rcftnn- rdr i.adds 10 !o6uh. r
do mon,n.nd rhe londsns:
l}rndoJn!4 rh. F.dnds of rn.
ti( tuh.n cd,kl. ri.er oiF .
Ndko4 rtrlroPrk eidsre ohi
ti E(!roP..rk '.t vrhio N(rrso {
PublsdoN'hqoncimn'FbrLhd
bIAwco9o].|!iddl33]
cryq Gn.i.. {d Ho+$ Jnn.
colbr &cil aliidn N$ Yqr. N
En'i r?r'j4 oI tunl, Dd(d dr
2d&i Brc*tn.N rkBooL$
rnied bl aurr PubrLhq LDitrd,
!mUBbidgldqub|$doiol
YtrkNtrh.!iqPt${AsUdD
frcj(r 4 1 Dairb Nlv rn!k, NY
DFi{D D."s{ }i! oli5"td
r{4 (ird ol r,Eir3 xr hnn.
.o,Phr ts@r otvefu. !,i1r4 hd
$rb* tuDrrd. 6!d. &ni,n!hAi,
."prk !'41 ul N.rdk.ril, N6! Yqk
NY6edHoq{ksPinsb*519fl'
addsJo r{ rorD4k, Dd/ .n[
NE:$]lNb|Eed]ryiln[ol10'+
Hdr. cirerF vGblsh 54 &!rrn,N
_ r,.s4h!rhM.ul'
Hub! Jsh,r cud4bm,
6yChdFcsd'Erfi'l96,ind

290. t'
h the An af l'lad.otaung Fabttr, Co €lre Wollf hos ser her
serjls hs tosk. on.lshe s!.ceeds br Loniv w.* ng from
me smpej po$be rom o3o1 peceof.orho.co
ir.ea.led .eede she c.teqo 2es o molor dmensono'
Tedr. q!es, sho* how they .re re oied dnd g ver ex.m
pres ol vor ot ons bo]l] nadil ..o o.d modcm The res! I j
on encyclopedo o1 te.h.Lqles lnd roslno.e, resh.p'_
r6struc1lre ond recodru.fiobric.
h€ po$b t6s ld lrrree .lime.siono mo.plor.n or
fobrc gotherna, pcoinq tl.king sh ni.rl ond qu l
ng wovef moleros-ore seem'ng v end e$ Io nes.rbe
them orl wo! .i be ro descr be ilre ent LA h n.rY 01 selr n9
v Moe rh.n 354 dogcms slpp
!,soiz€d l.1o b,.od llenec coteg.ret thon speci:
v fondsome phoro go eres sh.w.os: lhe breolhl.r.e
po$iblles n eoch ledrnique o
slond.o by emph.szng ihe scupi!€d rbbn. slricc"
w r iorrr ond sh..low
Y lexlie ofst5.nd qu le6, os ael os oormenl ond nome
<leco.sewe6 \'l erpon.l llre rdoslgn hlrzonswtrh t'e
o mosl idit ei eitech lrior con be och e!-.d
t.|koi/.|heihe|JLdr4o||h.c$fune
publications
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