The EU BAT reference document on Textiles Industry: Damien de Geeter

This webinar is the second in a series on industrial pollution prevention and control. Explore how Best Available Techniques (BAT) are being used to reduce industrial emissions in the textile and paper-pulp manufacturing sectors. Drawing on cross-country insights from OECD reports: Activity 6: Cross-Country analysis of selected sectors for comparison and Activity 7: Cross-Country Analysis of selected BREFs for Iron-Steel, Paper-Pulp and Waste incineration sectors, this webinar shed light on significant environmental challenges, highlighted shared and sector-specific emission control techniques and discussed the potential for harmonising BAT implementation globally. The findings are based on reviews of BREFs from the European Union, the United States, China, India, Korea, Japan and the World Bank.

1. 1
OECD Webinar “Best Available Techniques (BAT) for Industrial Emission Prevention and
Control: Insights from Textiles and Paper-Pulp Manufacturing Sectors”
03 July 2025
Damien de Geeter
EuropeanBureau for Researchon Industrial Transformationand Emissions(EU-BRITE)
Joint ResearchCentre –EuropeanCommission
The EU BREF on Textiles industry (TXT BREF
- January 2023)

2. 2
Structure in Commission Implementing Decision 2012/119/EU :
Preface
Scope
1/ General information about the sector concerned
2/ Applied processes and techniques
3/ Current emission and consumption levels
4/ Techniques to consider in the determination of BAT
5/ Best available techniques (BAT) conclusions
6/ Emerging techniques
7/ Concluding remarks and recommendations for future work
References
Glossary of terms and abbreviations
Annexes
What is a BREF in the European Union?

3. 3
Overview
Overview of Textiles manufacturing
and its environmental impact
KEIs covered in the OECD report –
Identified BAT and associated
ranges
=> Emissions to water from pre-treatment and dyeing
=> Parameters: pH, AOX (Adsorbable Organic Halogen), BOD (Biochemical Oxygen Demand),
COD (Chemical Oxygen Demand), metals (chromium, copper, nickel, and zinc),
and water consumption
Picture credits in order starting from the top left ending with bottom right:1.Colorful rolled cotton and closed up view©Shutnica - stock.adobe.com; 2. Kumaş üretim©Fatihyalcin - stock.adobe.com; 3.Equipment and machines for painting cloth at a garment factory
closeup©Warloka79 - stock.adobe.com; 4. Machines for dyeing fabrics in an industrial dyeing.©Ccaifas - stock.adobe.com; 5. Samples of cotton fabric. Closed up view. Textile background. Card and holiday concept©Shutnica - stock.adobe.com; 6. Weaving machines
of the cotton factories. Production of textiles.©Andreysha74 - stock.adobe.com; 7. Kumaş üretim©Fatihyalcin - stock.adobe.com; 8. Kumaş üretim©Fatihyalcin - stock.adobe.com; 9. Tkaniny1©Kon - stock.adobe.com; 10. Weaving machines of the cotton factories.
Production of textiles.©Andreysha74 - stock.adobe.com; 11. Industrial screen printing©Geppe - stock.adobe.com; 12.Industrial dyeing©Caifas - stock.adobe.com

4. 4
Overview of Textiles manufacturing and its environmental impact (1/2)
-360 TXT installations covered by the scope of the IED (10 tonnes per day)
-EU Textile (and clothing) industry representing 5 % of workforce and 10 % of enterprises

5. 5
Overview of textile installations and their environmental impact (2/2)
-Water consumption
Water used in the
production of textile
products purchased by
EU households, per
person
Source: EEA, EU27, 2010 –
2022

6. 6
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Emissions to Water – Introduction
(1/3)
Monitoring /
BAT-AELs
Direct /
Indirect
discharge
Prevention /
Combination
of abatement
techniques
Contextual
information:
pH
AOX
BOD
COD
Metals
Processes:
•Pretreatment: (scouring, spinning), desizing,
bleaching, mercerizing
•Dyeing

7. 7
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Emissions to Water – Introduction
(2/3)
Emissions Limit Values =
concentrations
•
Mass of emitted substances per volume of water,
expressed in mg/l
•
Continuous discharges = Daily average values, i.e.
24-hour flow-proportional composite samples
•
Batch discharge = average values over the release
duration taken as flow proportional composite
samples, or, provided that the effluent is
appropriately mixed and homogeneous, a spot
sample taken before discharge
Combinations of abatement techniques:
•
Pre-treatment of combined waste water streams, e.g.
physical separation, neutralisation
•
Primary treatment, e.g. sedimentation, coagulation
•
Secondary treatment, e.g. activated sludge process,
membrane, nitrification
•
Tertiary treatment, e.g. precipitation, chemical oxidation,
filtration
•
Advanced treatment for recycling the waste water, e.g.
evaporation

8. 8
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Emissions to Water – Introduction
(3/3)
Integrated strategy for waste water
management and treatment that includes by
order of priority:
1.process-integrated techniques
2.techniques to recover and reuse process
liquors
3.separate collection of waste water streams
and pastes containing high loads of
pollutants that cannot be adequately treated
by biological treatment;
•these waste water streams and pastes
are either pretreated
•or handled as waste
4.(final) waste water treatment techniques
Pretreatment of separately collected waste water streams and
pastes containing high loads of pollutants that cannot be
treated adequately by biological treatment, e.g.
•spent dyeing, coating or finishing padding liquors from
continuous and/or semicontinuous treatments
•desizing liquors
•spent printing and coating pastes
The compounds to be removed include organophosphorus
and brominated flame retardants, PFAS, phthalates and
chromium-(VI)-containing compounds
The pre-treatment of these waste water streams is generally
carried out as close as possible to the source in order to avoid
dilution
Identified preventive BATs

9. 9
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Emissions to Water – AOX
BAT-AEL ranges Remarks
Direct
discharge
0.1 – 0.4
mg/l
•Only apply when the substance/parameter concerned is identified as relevant
•Up to 0.8 mg/l when dyeing polyester and/or modacrylic fibres
Indirect
discharge
0.1 – 0.4
mg/l
•Only apply when the substance/parameter concerned is identified as relevant
•Up to 0.8 mg/l when dyeing polyester and/or modacrylic fibres
•May not apply if the downstream waste water treatment plant is designed and equipped
appropriately to abate the pollutants concerned, provided this does not lead to a higher
level of pollution in the environment
Identified BAT:
-Adsorption (e.g. for adsorbable organically bound halogens (AOX) in
dyestuffs, organophosphorus flame retardants)
Monitoring once every month

10. 10
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Emissions to Water – BOD
n
BAT-AEL ranges Remarks
Direct
discharge
Indirect
discharge
Identified BAT:
-Anaerobic pre-treatment (e.g. for azo dyestuffs, printing pastes)
-Activated sludge process
-Membrane bioreactor
Monitoring once every month
No BAT-AEL applies for biochemical oxygen demand (BOD). As an indication, the yearly
average BOD
5 level in the effluent from a biological waste water treatment plant will generally
be ≤ 10 mg/l.

11. 11
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Emissions to Water – COD
BAT-AEL ranges Remarks
Direct
discharge
40 – 100
mg/l
•The higher end of the BAT-AEL range may be up to 150 mg/l:
•when the specific amount of waste water discharged is less than 25 m3/t of treated textile materials
as a rolling yearly average; or
•when the abatement efficiency is ≥ 95 % as a rolling yearly average
•Either the BAT-AEL for COD or the BAT-AEL for TOC applies. The BAT-AEL for TOC is the
preferred option because TOC monitoring does not rely on the use of very toxic
compounds (13 – 30 mg/l and up to 50 mg/l:
•when the specific amount of waste water discharged is less than 25 m
3
/t of treated textile materials
as a rolling yearly average; or
•when the abatement efficiency is ≥ 95 % as a rolling yearly average)
Indirect
discharge
/
Identified BAT:
-Anaerobic pre-treatment (e.g. for azo dyestuffs, printing pastes)
-Activated sludge process
-Membrane bioreactor
Monitoring once every day (month if sufficiently stable)
In the case of total organic carbon (TOC) and chemical oxygen demand (COD), the calculation
of the average abatement efficiency is based on the influent and effluent load

12. 12
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Emissions to Water – Cr
BAT-AEL ranges Remarks
Direct
discharge
0.01 – 0.1
mg/l
•For dyeing with chromium mordant or chromium containing dyes
•The higher end of the BAT-AEL range may be higher and up to 0.3 mg/l when polyamide,
wool or silk fibres are dyed using metal-complex dyes
Indirect
discharge
0.01 – 0.1
mg/l
•Dyeing with chromium mordant or chromium containing dyes (e.g. metal-complex dyes)
•The higher end of the BAT-AEL range may be higher and up to 0.3 mg/l when polyamide,
wool or silk fibres are dyed using metal-complex dyes
•May not apply if the downstream waste water treatment plant is designed and equipped
appropriately to abate the pollutants concerned, provided this does not lead to a higher
level of pollution in the environment
Identified BAT:
-Precipitation (e.g. metals in dyestuffs)
-Coagulation and flocculation
-Chemical reduction
-Filtration
Monitoring once every month

13. 13
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Emissions to Water – Cu
BAT-AEL ranges Remarks
Direct
discharge
0.03 – 0.4
mg/l
•/
Indirect
discharge
0.03 – 0.4
mg/l
•May not apply if the downstream waste water treatment plant is designed and equipped
appropriately to abate the pollutants concerned, provided this does not lead to a higher
level of pollution in the environment
Identified BAT:
-Precipitation (e.g. metals in dyestuffs)
-Coagulation and flocculation
-Chemical reduction
-Filtration
Monitoring once every month

14. 14
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Emissions to Water – Ni
BAT-AEL ranges Remarks
Direct
discharge
0.01 – 0.1
mg/l
•The higher end of the BAT-AEL range may be higher and up to 0.2 mg/l when dyeing or
printing with nickel containing reactive dyes or pigments
Indirect
discharge
0.01 – 0.1
mg/l
•The higher end of the BAT-AEL range may be higher and up to 0.2 mg/l when dyeing or
printing with nickel containing reactive dyes or pigments
•May not apply if the downstream waste water treatment plant is designed and equipped
appropriately to abate the pollutants concerned, provided this does not lead to a higher
level of pollution in the environment
Identified BAT:
-Precipitation (e.g. metals in dyestuffs)
-Coagulation and flocculation
-Chemical reduction
-Filtration
Monitoring once every month

15. 15
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Emissions to Water – Zn
BAT-AEL ranges Remarks
Direct
discharge
0.04 – 0.5
mg/l
•The BAT-AELs only apply when the substance/parameter concerned is identified as
relevant in the waste water stream based on the inventory of inputs and outputs
•The higher end of the BAT-AEL range may be higher and up to 0.8 mg/l when treating
viscose fibres or when dyeing using zinc-containing cationic dyes
Indirect
discharge
0.04 – 0.5
mg/l
•The BAT-AELs only apply when the substance/parameter concerned is identified as
relevant in the waste water stream based on the inventory of inputs and outputs
•The higher end of the BAT-AEL range may be higher and up to 0.8 mg/l when treating
viscose fibres or when dyeing using zinc-containing cationic dyes
•May not apply if the downstream waste water treatment plant is designed and equipped
appropriately to abate the pollutants concerned, provided this does not lead to a higher
level of pollution in the environment
Identified BAT:
-Precipitation (e.g. metals in dyestuffs)
-Coagulation and flocculation
-Chemical reduction
-Filtration
Monitoring once every month

16. 16
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Water consumption
Identified BAT:
-Management plan and audits
-Production optimisation, e.g. scheduling or combined process steps for similar shades
-Separate collection of water streams (possibility to reuse without treatment?)
-Changes in the process, e.g. alternative processes, reduction of the amount of process
liquor used, countercurrent rinsing and washing
Monitoring preferentially includes direct measurements. Calculations or recording can also be used. The monitoring is
broken down, as much as possible, to process level and considers any significant changes in the process
Yearly monitoring requirement
Specific water consumption =
Total annual amount of water consumed by a given process, including washing
+ rinsing + cleaning, minus the water reused and/or recycled to the process
(m
3
/year)
_______________________________________________________________
Total annual amount of textile materials treated in a given
process (t/year)

17. 17
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Water consumption
Indicative environmental performance levels for specific water consumption:

18. 18
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Chemicals substitution (1/5)
Identified BAT:
-Chemical inventory and Chemicals Management System (CMS)
-General techniques for poorly biodegradable substances
Technique Description
Substitution of alkylphenols and
alkylphenol ethoxylates
•Alkylphenols and alkylphenol ethoxylates are substituted by biodegradable surfactants, e.g.
alcohol ethoxylates
Substitution of poorly biodegradable
phosphorus- or Nitrogen-containing
complexing agents
•Complexing agents containing phosphorus (e.g. triphosphates) or nitrogen (e.g. amino
polycarboxylic acids such as EDTA or DTPA) are substituted by, e.g.:
•polycarboxylates
•salts of hydroxy carboxylic acids
•sugar-based acrylic acid copolymers
•methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), Lglutamic acid N,N-diacetic acid (GLDA) and iminodisuccinic acid
(IDS)
•phosphonates
Substitution of mineral-oil based
antifoaming agents
•Mineral-oil-based antifoaming agents are substituted by biodegradable substances, e.g.
antifoaming agents based on synthetic ester oil

19. 19
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Chemicals substitution (2/5)
Identified BAT:
-Numerous process-specific techniques including (not exhaustive):
Technique Description Remarks
Pre-
treatment of
textile
materials
other than
raw wool
fibres
Chlorine-
free
bleaching
•Bleaching is carried out with chlorine-free bleaching chemicals
(e.g. hydrogen peroxide, peracetic acid or ozone), often
combined with pre-treatment with enzymes
•May not be applicable to the
brightening of flax and other
bast fibres
Optimised
hydrogen
peroxide
bleaching
•The use of complexing agents can be completely avoided or
minimised by reducing the concentration of hydroxyl radicals
during bleaching
Dyeing
Selection of
dyes
•Dyes with dispersing agents that are biodegradable (e.g. based
on fatty acid esters) are selected

20. 20
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Chemicals substitution (3/5)
Identified BAT:
-Numerous process-specific techniques including (not exhaustive):
Technique Description Remarks
Dyeing of
cellulosic
materials
Minimised
use of
sulphur-
based
reducing
agents
•Dyeing is carried out without sodium sulphide or hydrosulphite
as reducing agents
•Where this is not possible, partially chemically prereduced dyes
(e.g. indigo dyes) are used so that less sodium sulphide or
hydrosulphite is added for dyeing
•The applicability may be
restricted by product
specifications (e.g. shade)
Steam
fixation of
reactive
dyes
•The reactive dyes are fixed with steam, which avoids the use of
chemicals for fixation
•The applicability may be
restricted by the characteristics
of the textile materials and by
product specifications (e.g.
•high-quality dyeing of
polyester/cotton blends)

21. 21
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Chemicals substitution (4/5)
Identified BAT:
-Numerous process-specific techniques including (not exhaustive):
Technique Description Remarks
Dyeing of
wool
Reactive
dyeing
•Wool dyeing is carried out with reactive dyes without chromium
mordant
•The applicability may be
restricted by product
specifications (e.g. shade)
Metal
complex
dyeing
•Dyeing is carried out with metal-complex dyes under optimised
conditions in terms of pH, auxiliaries and acid used, in order to
increase the exhaustion of the dyeing liquor and the fixation of
the dyes
•May not be applicable to dyeing
with dark shades

22. 22
KEIs covered in the OECD Activity 6 report-Chemicals substitution (5/5)
Identified BAT:
-Numerous process-specific techniques including (not exhaustive):
Technique Description
Dyeing of
polyester
Batch dyeing
without dyestuff
carriers
•Batch dyeing of polyester and wool-free polyester blends is carried out at high temperature
(e.g. 130 ºC) without the use of dyestuff carriers
Use of
environmentally
friendly dyestuff
carriers in batch
dyeing
•Batch dyeing of polyester-wool blends is carried out with chlorine-free and biodegradable
dyestuff carriers

23. 23
Thank you
© European Union 2024
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