TM-AATCC-135-150.pptx

AATCC-135 & AATCC-150 Test Method

1. AATCC TM135-2018t Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC TM150-2018t Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

2. Dimensional Change a generic term for changes in the length or width of a fabric or garment specimen subjected to specified conditions. The change is usually expressed as a percentage of the initial dimension of the specimen. AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

3. Laundering A process intended to remove soils and/or stains by treatment ( washing ) with aqueous detergent solution and normally including rinsing, extraction and drying . AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

4. Why Dimensional Change Matters Care labels 16 CFR 423 https://www.ftc.gov/node/119456 AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

5. Why Dimensional Change Matters Customer satisfaction Impacts other fabric/garment properties AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

6. Can be Combined with Other Methods Appearance AATCC TM88B AATCC TM88C AATCC TM124 AATCC TM143 Skew/Twist AATCC TM179 AATCC TM207 Stain Release AATCC TM130 AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

7. Scope TM135 Flat fabrics Individual panels of sewn items TM150 Garments Circular knits used in tubular form AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

8. Materials Indelible marking pen Ruler or shrinkage scale Conditioning facilities Flat surface for marking and measuring AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

9. Shrinkage Scale Use with 10-in or 18-in benchmarks Measures % change directly Be sure to use the correct side of the scale! PERCENT SHRINKAGE AATCC PO BOX 12215 RESEARCH TRIANGLE PARK, NC 27709 20 10 10 20 10 10 Shrinkage ( - ) Growth ( + ) Shrinkage ( - ) Growth ( + ) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

10. Test Specimens: TM135 3 specimens Option 1: 380  380 mm (15  15 in) Option 2: 610  610 mm (24  24 in) Narrow fabrics: 380 mm (15 in) long Different warp & fill yarns Pink edges as needed May also be used for TM124, TM179, TM130 Selvage AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

11. Test Specimens: TM150 Garment 3 specimens (garments) when possible May also be used for TM143, TM179, TM207, TM130 Selvage AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

12. Conditioning ASTM D1776 Flat, single layer, no tension or On hanger Air circulation through and around 21°C ±2°C (70°F ±4°F) 65% ±5% relative humidity (RH) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

13. Benchmarks: TM135 Mark 250- or 460-mm: W1 W2 W3 For ruler: Measure to nearest mm, ⅛ in., or ⅟ 10 in. Calculate average L Calculate average W Measurement A (original) L1 L2 L3 AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

14. 25-125 mm Benchmarks: TM135 (narrow) Use full width Mark 250-mm: L1 L2 (if 25-125 mm wide) Mark W1 (optional) Measure Calculate average L Calculate average W Measurement A (original) 380 mm < 25 mm AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

15. Benchmarks: TM150 ≥ 25 mm (1 in) from edges and seams Mark 250- or 460-mm: W1 L1 W2 L2 W3 L3 Measure Measurement A (original) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

16. Benchmarks: TM150 Benchmarks across panels may be used Mark & report measurement points Mark and measure: Front length Front width AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

17. Laundering Materials Automatic washer Tumble dryer or drying facilities Detergent Ballast AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

18. https://www.aatcc.org/testing/laundering/ AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

19. Standard Washing Conditions Alternate conditions listed in LP1 (note as a modification of the test method) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

20. 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent Powder detergent For “traditional” top-loading washers 66 g per load AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

21. Standard Reference Detergent No phosphates No bleach, enzymes, colors, fragrances Consistency for valid comparison of test results With or without optical brightener www.aatcc.org/test/detergent www.aatcc.org/test/washers/#detergent AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

22. Laundering Ballast 92  92 cm (36  36 in) hemmed white sheets Type 1: 100% cotton Type 3: 50% polyester/ 50% cotton AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

23. Washing Procedure Select machine cycle Select wash temperature Add water Add detergent Add specimens and enough ballast to make 1.8-kg (4-lb) load Start wash cycle AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

24. Standard Drying Conditions (A) Tumble i . Cotton Sturdy ii. Delicate iii. Permanent Press (B) Line (C) Drip (D) Screen AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

25. Tumble Dry (A) Remove from wash immediately after final spin Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion Place full load (specimens and ballast) in dryer Set exhaust temperature Normal or Perm Press: 68°C (155°F) max. Delicate: 60°C (140°F) max. Dry completely Remove immediately AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

26. Line Dry (B) Remove from wash immediately after final spin Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion TM135: Hang specimens by two corners, fabric length in vertical direction TM150: Hang specimens on hangers Dry in still air at room temperature ≤ 26°C (78°F) Do not blow air directly on specimens AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

27. Line Dry (B) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

28. Line Dry (B) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

29. Drip Dry (C) Remove from wash immediately after final rinse (soaking wet, before final spin ) Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion Hang as for line dry AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

30. Screen Dry (D) Remove from wash immediately after final spin Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion Spread on horizontal surface allowing air movement on all sides Smooth without distorting or stretching Dry in still air at room temperature ≤ 26°C (78°F) Do not blow air directly on specimens AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

31. Screen Dry (D) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

32. Number of Laundering Cycles “Pass” after 1 cycle: continue to 3 cycles “Fail” after 1 cycle: stop test or As agreed between buyer and seller AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

33. Ironing If specimens would always be ironed by a consumer, iron before measuring Minimal pressure to remove wrinkles AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

34. Conditioning Repeat conditioning procedure after final dry or iron AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

35. Final Measurement: Shrinkage Scale Read % change directly from scale Calculate average change in length Calculate average change in width AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

36. Final Measurement: Ruler Measure between marked points Same surface Same measurement device For TM135: Calculate average length measurement Calculate average width measurement Measurement B (after laundering) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

37. Calculation: Benchmarks Calculate length and width change separately nearest 0.1% for laundering nearest 0.2% for drycleaning Average Dimensional Change = B-A  100% A A = initial measurement ( avg for TM135) B = final measurement ( avg for TM135) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

38. Calculation: Garments Calculate change for each garment location nearest 0.1% for laundering nearest 0.2% for drycleaning Average length measurements, if applicable Average width measurements, if applicable AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

39. Interpretation Negative dimensional change: shrinkage Positive dimensional change: growth -10% L -10% W +10% L +10% W -10% L +10% W AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

40. Report Sample description Test method (including year) Ballast (Type 1 or 3) Detergent (with out without brightener) Number of laundering cycles (usually 3) Laundering conditions Distortion/wrinkling before laundering Iron setting, if used Modification(s) of test method AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

41. Report For each direction or garment location: Direction/location Average dimensional change to nearest 0.1% Number of measurements in average Usually 9: 3 sets of benchmarks × 3 specimens Original benchmark distance AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

42. Questions? Erika Simmons Technical Director, AATCC [email protected] Chair RA42, Dimensional Changes Test Methods AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists