TP 2 Greige Fabric Inspection and Quality Control.ppt

The major portion of the size consists of starch, wax and tallow. All these remain on the warp yarns even after weaving the cloth.

1. Greige Fabric Inspection and
Quality Control
Nadir Ali
Lecturer

2. The Pre-treatment Process Flowchart
Thepre-treatmentprocessis
acrucialstepintextile
manufacturing,asitprepares
thefabricfordyeingand
printing.The process
involvesseveralsteps,
includingsingeing,desizing,
scouring,bleaching,and
mercerizing.Eachofthese
stepsisimportantinensuring
thatthefabricisfreefrom
impuritiesandreadyfor
furtherprocessing.

3. Greige Receiving and Recording
Propergreigereceivingandrecording
isacriticalstepinthetextile
manufacturingprocess.Itinvolves
carefullyinspectingthefabricasit
arrives,checkingforanydefectsor
inconsistencies,andrecordingall
relevantinformationforfuture
reference.
Toensureaccuracyandefficiencyin
thisprocess,it'simportanttohavea
well-trainedteamwithclearguidelines
andprocedures.Sometipsforsuccess
includehavingadesignatedreceiving
area,usingstandardizedformsfor
recordinginformation,andconducting
regularqualitychecksthroughoutthe
process.

4. GreigeFabric
Newly constructed fabric as it comes from the mill is
called as greige fabric
The goods must pass through various processes to
make it suitable for its intended use

5. GREYROOMOPERATIONS
Fabricinspectioninvolvesfollowingthree
processes
•Perching
•Burling
•Mending

6. GREYROOMOPERATIONS
PerchingItisavisualinspection,anditiscarriedout
throughtheinspectiontablewhichconsistsofafrostedglass
withlightsbehindandaboveit.
Thefabricimperfectionslikethickplaces,defects,yarn
knots,stainsandotherflawsaremarked.
BurlingItistheremovalofyarnknotsorotherimperfection
fromthefabric.

7. GREY ROOM OPERATIONS
Mendingistheactualrepairofimperfections.
•Therecentinnovationbytheuseoflaserbeams.
•Theimperfectionslikestains,holes,thickplaces,looseends
andprotrudingthreadsofwarpandweftaredetected.
•Eliminateshumanerror.
Sewing:Afterthegoodshavebeeninspected,checkedandclassed
inthegreyroom,accordingtoqualityandstamped,theyare
sewntogether,endtoend,bysewingmachines

8. •Fabric Inspection
Principle
Importance
Types of Inspection
Requirements
Inspection Systems
•Fabric Defects
Minor, Major and Serious
Woven & Knitted

9. Major Defect:
A defect that, if conspicuous (clearly visible) on
the finished product, would cause the item to be a
second.
A "second" is a garment with a conspicuous defect
that affects the sale-ability or service-ability of the
item.
Minor Defect:
A defect that would not cause the product to be
termed a second either because of severity or
location.

10. WOVEN FABRIC DEFECTS
Jerk-in(major/minor)-Causedbyanextrapieceoffillingyarnbeingjerked
partwayintothefabricbytheshuttle.Thedefectwillappearattheselvedge
Knots(minor)-Causedbytyingofyarnstogether.
BurlMark(major)-extrapieceofyarniswovenintothefabric
Drawbacks(major)-Causedbyexcessiveloomtensionappliedbysome
abnormalrestriction.Whentherestrictionisremovedtheexcessslackiswoven
intothefabric.Usually,theendsarebroken
DroppedPick(major)-Causedbythefillinginsertionmechanismona
shuttle-lessloomnotholdingthefillingyarn,causingthefillingyarntobe
wovenwithouttension.

11. EndOut(major)-Causedbyyarnbreakingandloomcontinuingtorunwith
missingend
MixedEnd(major)-Yarnofadifferentfiberblendusedonthewarpframe,
resultinginastreakinthefabric
MixedFilling(major)-Causedbybobbinoflightweightyarnordifferent
fiberblendusedinfilling.Willappearasadistinctshade/colorchange
OpenReed(major)-Resultsfromabentreedwirecausingwarpendstobe
heldapart,exposingthefillingyarn.
Slub(major/minor)-Usuallycausedbyanextrapieceofyarnthatiswoven
intofabric.Itcanalsobecausedbythickplacesintheyarn.
Oftencausedbyflywastebeingspuninyarninthespinningprocess

12. Smash(major)-Causedbyanumberofrupturedwarpendsthathavebeen
repaired
SoiledFillingorEnd(major)-Dirty,oillookingspotsonthewarporfilling
yarns,oronpackage-dyedyarn
StopMark(major/minor)-Whentheloomisstopped,theyarnelongates
undertension;whenloomstartsagaintheslacknessiswovenintothefabric
ThinPlace(major)-Oftencausedbythefillingyarnbreakingandtheloom
continuingtorununtiltheoperatornoticestheproblem

13. •Inspection

14. PRINCIPLE
Inspection
↓
Detection of defects
↓
Feedback of these defects to appropriate
personnel
↓
Determination of causes of defects
↓
Correction of the defects

15. IMPORTANCE
•Fabric inspection is done to determine its
acceptability.
•If inspection is not done, it may result in
(a)Loss of the material
(b)Loss of time
(c)Dissatisfaction due to poor quality
(d)Poor customer return

16. Inspection
Inspectioniscarriedoutmainlytoappraisethequalityof
productsintermsofmanufacturingdefectsandadherencetothe
specificationsandotherrequirements.
Normally,thevisualinspectioniscarriedoutonthefabricto
examinetheoccurrenceofyarndefects,fabricdefects,
design/colorsbesidesspecificationparticulars
Intheearlierdays,theinspectionwasmainlycarriedoutto
segregatethedefectiveproductsfromthegoodproductsthereby
controllingthequalityofproductsattheexitpoints.

17. Inthelate80s,theconceptofqualityhasundergone
totaltransformationfromqualitycontroltoquality
assuranceandtotalqualitymanagement.
Inthechangedscenario,theinspectionismainly
carriedouttoascertainthattheproductsconformto
requirementandinitiatesuitablecorrectiveand
preventiveactionifotherwise.

18. Types of Inspection
Therearetwowaysofdoinginspectionviz.100%inspection
andsamplinginspection.
The100%inspectionisgenerallycarriedouttosegregatethe
productsquality-wiseandperformmendingactivityfor
productshavingmendabledefectswhereasthesampling
inspectionmainlyfocusonsentencingthelotorbatchfor
acceptanceorotherwisebasedonthesample.
Thiswillleadtoreductionindefectsinthefinalproduct,
rejectionlevel,replacementandtherebyimprovethequalityof
thefinalproductwhichresultsinqualityimageinthemarket

19. Requirements of Inspection
InspectionandMendingistobecarriedoutonaflattable
inawellilluminated/ventilatedplace.
Inspectionequipmentslikecountingglass,agood
calibratedtape,metalliccomb,clipper-pluckerneedleare
tobeprovidedtothecheckers

20. CHECKING OF DIMENSIONS
MEASUREMENT OFWIDTH:
Widthshallbemeasuredatthreedifferentplacesofthefabric
andrecorded.
Whilemeasuringwidth,careshouldbetaken
o·toremovethewrinkles/creasegentlyfromthefabricsurface.
o·tokeepthemeasuringtapestraightacrossthefabric
horizontallyfromselvedgetoselvedge.
o·tomeasurethewidthasfaraspossiblenearthecentre
avoidingtheends.
o·nottostretchthefabricwhilemeasuring.

21. MEASUREMENT OFLENGTH:
Fabrictobemeasuredforlengthandactuallengthrecorded.
Lengthismeasuredbyanyofthefollowingmethods
o·Bypassingthroughmetrecounterfittedroller.
o·Bymanuallyclippingthefabricsinthefoldmeasuringframe.
o·Bycountingthenumberofmetrefoldincaseoffolded
fabrics.
oCaretobetakentoensurethatthefoldsareofonemetrelength
bymeasuringafewfolds.

22. CHECKING OF CONSTRUCTIONAL
PARTICULARS
ENDSPERINCH:
Endsperinchshallbecountedattwoplacesalongthewidthof
thefabricandrecorded.
PICKSPERINCH:
Picksperinchshallbecountedatthreeplacesalongthelength
ofthefabricandrecorded.
Caretobetakenwhileplacingthepickglasstoseethatthe
edgesofthetemplateshouldcoincidewiththeyarn.
Ends/Picksperinchmaybecountedforoneinch.Alsothe
picksshouldnotbecountedatdefectiveplaceslikeweftbars
andcracks.

23. WEIGHTPERSQ.MTR.:
Piecesaretobeweighedandrecorded.Weightpersquare
metretobecalculatedandrecorded.
CALCULATIONOFWEIGHT/SQ.MTR.:
·WeightheindividualpieceunderInspectionandnote-down.
·Workoutthesq.mtrs.ofthepiecebymultiplyingthelength
ofthepieceinmtrs.andwidthofthepieceinmtrs.
Calculatewt./sq.mtrs.as:
Weight in kgs.
---------------------------------------------------
Length in mtrs. X Width in mtrs.

24. Inspection Systems
Therearetwodifferentsystemsforgradingthequalityof
fabric,whichareasfollows:
SYSTEM.I(4-PointSystem)
The4-pointsystem,alsocalledtheAmericanApparel
ManufacturersAssociation(AAMA)pointgradingsystemfor
determiningfabricquality,iswidelyusedbyproducersof
apparelfabricsandbytheDepartmentofDefenceintheUnited
States
Fabricflawsordefectsareassignedpointvaluesbasedonthe
following:

25. Length of defect in fabric, either length
or width
Points allotted
Up to 3 in. (7.5 cms.) 1
Over 3 in. (7.5 cms.) up to 6 in (15 cms.) 2
Over 6 in. (15 cms.) up to 9 in. (23 cms.) 3
Over 9 in. (23 cms.) 4
Holes and openings
(largest dimension)
Points allotted
1 in. (2.5 cms.) or less 2
Over 1 in. (2.5 cms.)
4

26. Themaximumnumberofdefectpointstobecountedagainst
anyonelinearyard/metreisfourpoints.
Overall,fabricqualityisassessedonthebasisofthenumber
ofdefectpointsper100sqyards/sqmtrs.offabric.
ACCEPTABILITYCRITERIAFORFLAWS:
Normallyfabricrollscontainingupto40pointsper100sqyds.
and48pointsper100sqmtrs.areacceptable.
However,basedonthepricelineandendproductmoreorless
than40/48pointsper100sq.yds./100sqmtrs.respectively
maybeaccepted.

27. Example -1
Afabricrollof120yds.longand48in.widecontainsthe
followingdefects:
2defectsupto3in.
5defectsover3in.butlessthan6in.
1defectsover6in.butlessthan9in.
1defectover9in.

28. Points/100sq.yds
Totalpointsscoredintheroll
= ---------------------------------------------------
FabricwidthxTotalyardinspected
Answer????????????????????????????????????
??

29. 2 defects up to 3 in. 2 x 1 = 2
points
5 defects over 3 in. but less than 6 in. 5 x 2 = 10
points
1 defects over 6 in. but less than 9 in. 1 x 3 = 3
points
1 defect over 9 in. 1 x 4 = 4 points
TOTAL =19 points

30. Therefore,Points/100sq.yds.
Totalpointsscoredintherollx3600
= ---------------------------------------------------
FabricwidthininchesxTotalyardinspected
19x3600
= ---------------
48x120
= 11.9defectpoints/100sq.yds.
Soiftheacceptancecriteriais40points/100sq.yds.thenthis
rollisacceptable.

31. SYSTEM . II (10-POINT SYSTEM)
No linear yard of fabric is assigned more than 10
points, no matter how bad or frequent the defects are.
Acceptability criteria for flaws:
Fabric is considered of “first” quality if the number of
defect points are less than the number of yards of
fabric inspected.
In the case of fabrics wider than 50 in., the fabric is
considered of first quality if the total defect points do
not exceed the number of yards of fabric inspected by
10%.

32. Length of defect, Warp
defects
Points allotted
Up to1 inch 1
1 to 5 inch 3
5 to 10 inch 5
10 to 36 inch 10
Filling defect (weft defect) Points allotted
Up to 1 inch 1
1 to 5 inch 3
5 inch to half-width 5
Larger than half-width 10

33. The Fabric Inspection Machinery:
An Overview
Fabricinspectionmachineryisacritical
componentoftextilemanufacturing.It
ensuresthatthefabricmeetstherequired
qualitystandardsbeforeitisshippedto
customers.Therearedifferenttypesof
fabricinspectionmachinery,eachwithits
specificfunctions.
Thefirsttypeistheinspectiontable,
whichisusedtoinspectthefabricforany
defectsorfaults.Thesecondtypeisthe
rollingmachine,whichisusedtorollthe
fabricafterinspection.Thethirdtypeis
themeasuringmachine,whichmeasures
thelengthandwidthofthefabric.Finally,
thepackingmachineisusedtopackthe
fabricintorollsforshipping.

34. Fabric Packing and Storage: Best Practices
Properfabricpackingandstorageis
essentialformaintainingthequality
andlongevityofthefabric.When
packingfabric,itisimportantto
ensurethatitiscleanandfreefrom
anydebrisorcontaminants.
Additionally,thefabricshouldbe
foldedneatlyandstoredinacool,
dryplacetopreventmoldand
mildewgrowth.
Whenstoringfabric,itisimportantto
keepitawayfromdirectsunlightand
heatsources,asthiscancause
fadinganddamagetothefabric
fibers.Itisalsorecommendedto
storefabricinacid-freecontainersor
wrapitinacid-freepapertoprevent
discolorationanddeteriorationover
time.

35. THANK YOU