INTRODUCTION
•In Cold creams are definedas
•“ semisolid emulsions of either oil in water or waterinoiltype.”
•“semisolid emulsions usually medicated, intended for externalapplication.”.
THE SKIN CARE CREAMS CAN BE
CLASSIFIED ON THE FOLLOWING BASIS:
•According to emulsiontype:
1.W/O creams Eg: Coldcream
2.O/W creams Eg: Vanishingcream.
•According tofunction:
Eg -cleansing,foundation,moisturizingetc.
notracewhen•Vanishingcreamgetsthenamefromthefactthatitleaves
rubbed into theskin.
•These are oil inwateremulsionsthat contains large percentages of water and stearic
acid or other oleaginouscomponents.
•Afterapplication,thecontinuousphaseevaporates,leavingbehindathinresiduefilm
of the stearicacid.
VANISHINGCREAM
1.High meltingpoint
2.Purewhiteness
3.Very little odor and low iodinenumber
4.Rubbed easily on theskin
IDEAL PROPERTIES OF VANISHINGCREAMS
MAJOR INGREDIENTS USED FOR THE PRODUCTION OF
VANISHINGCREAMS
Stearic acid
•Major component of vanishingcream
•Good quality triple pressed must beselected
•Soap formed in-situ by the reaction between a suitable alkali and
stearic acid determines hardness of thecream.
USE : Governs the consistency of thecream
Humectants
•Glycerolmostfavoredfollowed by sorbitol and propyleneglycol
USE:Prevents excessive drying out ofcream
Alkali
•ExamplesarePotassiumhydroxide,sodiumhydroxide,sodiumcarbonate,
triethanolamine andborax.
since makes a cream of finetexture without•Potassium hydroxide is mostlyused
excessiveharshness.
•Sodium or potassium hydroxide when used alone forms hard cream hence used
alwaysincombination.
•Borax used in combination with potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine to form
whiteemulsion.
•Carbonates not favoured, liberates CO2 and creams becomespongy.
Stearic acid provides oil
phase and20-30% of free
acid neutralized by
alkali
Emulsifier as soap
fromKOH ( IN
SITU)
VANISHING
CREAM in which oil phase
melts above body temp and
crystallizes as invisible form
togive a non greasy and
shinylayer onskin
PROCEDURE
1.Dissolvethesodiumhydroxideandpotassiumhydroxideinwater,addglyceroland
preservativeand heat to80˚C.
2.Inanothervessel,meltthestearicacid,cetylalcoholandisopropylmyristate(oily
phase) and heat to75˚C.
3.Add the alkali solution to the melted oily phase with goodagitation.
4.When the mixture has cooled to about 45˚C, add the perfume and continue slowmixing
until cool.
5.Cover and let it stand overnight. Remix briefly next day beforepackaging.
NOTE:
•The alkali reacts with some of the stearic acid to form a soap which then acts as
emulsifier.
•The polyol (glycerol) prevents loss ofmoisture.
•Sodium sterate crystals gives pearly shine.
PRODUCTS AVAILABLE INMARKET
COLDCREAM
COLDCREAM
•It is an emulsion of water in oil (w/o)type.
•Used as moisturizer, makeup remover andcleanser.
•The main principle of cold cream involves slow evaporationof
water phase which leads to coolingsensation.
•Borax , beeswax are used as an emulsifyingagent.
•Cold cream is protective to theskin.
•Formula contains Borax andBeeswax.
•Borax soap is obtained by free acids in the beeswax and borax (sodiumborate).
•The sodium soap obtained gives oil in water (o/w)emulsion.
•Onstorage,PHASEINVERSIONoccursandwaterinoil(w/o)emulsioncreamis
formed and this is often known as coldcream.
•On application, due to evaporation of water, cold sensation is observed, hence, it is
called as coldcream.
•Oily film remaining on the skin gives emollient action and protectionto theskin.
IDEAL CHARACTERISTICS OF COLDCREAM
•Should have optimum pH(4.6-6).
•Consistency should beoptimum
•Should not besticky
•Should be attractive inappearance
•Penetration through epidermis of skin should be
desirable.
•Must be non-irritant andnon-inflammatory.
•Should give coolingeffects.
INGREDIENTS USED FOR PREPARATION OF COLDCREAM
Normally the following ingredients areused:
1.Mineral oil ( liquid paraffin)
2.White beeswax : Thickening agent and emulsifier (Base for thecream)
3.Borax: Used as emulsifier and responsible for the whiteness of coldcream.
4.Alcohol, glycerin, andlanolin
5.Perfume: ProvidesFragrance
FORMULATION OF COLDCREAM
•Idealformula
Ingredients Quantity(%w/w) Category
OilPhase
Mineral Oil (LiquidParaffin) 45.0 Used as solvent andemollient
Beeswax 16 Thickening agent andemulsifier
AqueousPhase
Borax 1 Emulsifier andprovide
whiteness
Water to100
Preservative q.s. Antimicrobial
Perfume q.s. Fragrance
PROCEDURE
•Heat the mineral oil and beeswax in a jacketed vessel at 75˚Cand maintain
heat.
•Inanother container,dissolveboraxandpreservative inwaterandheatto
75˚C (Aqueousphase).
•Slowly add this aqueous phase to the mineral oil-beeswax heated oilyphase.
•Cool to 35˚C and addperfume.
PRODUCTS AVAILABLE INMARKET
USES
For Vanishingcream
•Used as adhesive formakeup
powders.
•Reduceslossofmoisturefrom
dryskin.
•Smoothens the skin and keepsit
soft.
•Preventsskinfromroughening
andchapping.
For Coldcream
•Typically used to cleanse the face
offmakeup
•Heavilymoisturises dryskin.
•Can also be used as a balm for dry
crackedlips.
•It can alsobeusedasashaving
creamalternativeformen.