UNIT 5 : HERBAL COSMETIC (MPH204T) of cosmetics and cosmeceuticals subject

This is detailed notes on unit 5 of cosmetics and cosmeceuticals subject of M Pharm of Pharmaceutics Department

1. 1
HERBAL COSMETICS
M.PHARM FIRST YEAR
COLLEGE OF PHARMACY
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2. CONTENTS
■Introduction
■Herbalingredientsusedinhaircare
■Herbalingredientsusedinoralcare
■Herbalingredientsusedinskincare
■Reviewofguidelinesforherbalcosmeticsbyprivate
bodieslikecosmoswithrespecttopreservatives,
emollients,foamingagents,emulsifiersand
rheologymodifiers.
■Challengesinformulatingherbalcosmetics
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3. HERBAL COSMETICS
DEFINITION
■AccordingtoD&CAct1940
■Anyarticleintendedtoberubbed,poured,sprinkledor
sprayedonorintroducedtoorappliedtoanypartof
humanbodyforcleansing,beautifying,promoting,
attractivenessoralteringtheappearanceandincludes
anyarticleintendedforuseascomponentofcosmetics.
■HerbalCosmetics,referredasProducts,mwhichare
formulated,usingvariouspermissiblecosmetic
ingredientstoformthebaseinwhichoneormoreherbal
ingredientsareusedtoprovidedefinedcosmetic
benefitsonly,shallbecalledas“HerbalCosmetics”.
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4. ■Theydonotprovokeallergicreaction&donothave
negativesideeffects.
■Theyareeasilyincorporatedwithskinandhair.
■Extractformoftheplantsdecreasesthebulkproperties
ofthecosmeticsandgiveappropriateeffects.
■Easilyavailable&foundinlargevariety&quantity.
4
ADVANTAGES OF HERBAL
COSMETICS
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5. HERBAL INGREDIENT USED IN HAIR
CARE
■Haircareproductistomakethehairlookmanageable
andpromotehealthygrowth.
Haircareproductsare:
❑Hairoil
❑Hairtonics
❑Haircream
❑Shampoos
❑Hairconditioner
❑Hairlotions
❑Hairdyes
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6. SOME COMMONLY USED HERBALS FOR HAIR CARE
S.NOBOTANICAL
NAME/COMMEN NAME
USES
1 Acacia concinna(Shikakai)Podsextract is used as hair
cleanser & control of dandruff
2 Arnica montana(arnica)Flowersextract is used in hair oil
as a tonic material& stimulate
the hair follicles
3 Betulapendula(Birch) Extract of leavesis used as anti -
dandruff
4 Brassica(Mustard) Seed oil is used as hair oil for
hair nourishment
5 Calendula officinalis
(Marigold)
Flowerextractis used in hair
creams for smootheningeffect.
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7. HAIR OIL
■Thehairoilsusedfordressingsandnourishingthehairs
andgraceappearanceofhairs.
■Thispreparationsisgenerallyusedtoincreasethegrowth
ofhairandremainshealthy.
Hairoilshouldhavefollowingproperties:
❑Theyshouldgivelustertothehair.
❑Retainthemsoft&flowering.
❑Invigoratetheirgrowth.
❑Preventprematuregrayness.
❑Keepthebraincool.
❑Shouldnotbesticky.
❑Shouldpossesmildperfumesifrequired.
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8. Varioushairoilusedforhair
nourishment:
■Castoroil
■Cocountoil
■Sesameoil
■Almondoil
Formula
BASE
■Sunflower oil
■Sandal wood oil
■Rosemary oil
■Chamelioil(jasmine)
■Hennaoil
HERBALEXTRACTMIX
8
S.N
O
INGREDIENTS %
1 Tiloil 70
2 Almond oil 10
3 Apricot oil 10
4 Sunflower oil 10
S.NOINGREDIENTS %
1 Centellaasiatica 10
2 Emblicaofficinalis10
3 Hibiscus rosasinensis10
4 Amarantuscensus 10
5 Musa acuminata-root10
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9. HAIR LOTION
❑Hairlotionhasastimulatingeffectuponthehair
follicles.
❑Theyaregenerallyperfumedwithoilofrosemary,it
possesagoodstimulatingproperty.
CatharanthusLotionFormula:
9
S.N
O
INGREDIENTS PARTS
1 Tinctureof cantharides1
2 Rosemary 5
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10. ❑Shampooispreparationofsurfactantinsuitableform
liquid,solidorpowder-whichwhenusedunderthe
conditionspecifiedwillremovesurfacegrease,dirt,and
skindebrisfromthehairshaftandscalpwithout
affectingadverselythehair,scalporhealthoftheuser.
■INGREDIENTSUSEINSHAMPOOS
■Surfactant:Eg:Anionicsurfactant:Sulfonicacidsalts,
Alcoholsulfates,
■Viscositymodifiers:Electrolytes(NaCl),Naturalgum
(tragacanth,Alginates),cellulosederivative(HEC,MC),
■Opacifyingagent:Alkanolamidesofhigherfattyacids,
Propyleneglycol,
10
SHAMPOOS
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11. ■Conditioningagent:Lanolin,Mineraloil,.
■Clarifyingagent:Solubilizingalcohol-Ethanol,
Isopropanol&Nonionicsolubilizer-
Polyethoxylatedalcoholandesters.
■Preservatives:Methyl&Propylparaban,
■FoamBuilders:Laurylmonoethanolamides,
■Perfumes:Herbal,fruityfragrance.
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12. HERBALSHAMPOO:
12
S.N
O
Ingredients %
1 Herbal extract mix5
2 Ammonium
carbonate
1
3 Detergent-SLES 40
4 Water 20
5 Propylene glycol30
6 Polyethylene glycol4
7 Preservatives &
Perfume
QS
S.N
O
Ingredients %
1 Musa acuminata-
root
3
2 Aloe barbadensis3
3 Emblicaofficinalis2
BASE
HERBAL EXTRACT MIX
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13. HEALTHSHAMPOO:
■TakeequalquantitiespowersuchReetha,Shikakai,
Multanimitti,Nagarmotha,Mehandi&Amla.
■Soakinwaterforovernight–makepaste.
HAIRFALLPREVENTIVESHAMPOO:
■PasteofflowerofTil(Sesame)&Gokharuincow
milk-Paste-Preventthehairlossandencourages
thegrowth.
SHIKAKAIHAIRWASH:
■Shikakaipower,Driedamla,Driedlimepeel,
Greengrams,Driedcurryleaves,Fenugreekseeds
–cleansingandhairwash.
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14. HAIRCONDITIONER
■Thetermhairconditionersusedforattractive,healthy
lookinghairs.Theyshouldbecapableofgivinglife,
softness,bodyandsilkytouch,controlofflywayand
easeofstylingtothehair.
Aloeverahairconditionerformula:
Ingredient-%
Aloeveragel-60
Lemonjuice-10
Essentialoil-0.5
Essentialoil-lavenderandrosemaryareusedfor
relaxingandmindoilforstimulatingeffect.
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15. ■Hairtonicwhichpromotehairgrowth,arresthairfalland
Strengthenhairroots.
Ingredients:
■Amlafruits
■Henna(mehandi)
■Jasmineflower
■Japaflower
■Tulsileaves
■Vasaka
■Spirulina
■Heatallingredientswithoil(coconutoil)onlowflame
tillallherbsareburnt.
■Straintheoil&storeinairtightcontainer
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HAIR TONIC
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16. ■Thesearepreparationswhichareusedforthecoloring
ofthehairs.
■Theyenhancestheattractivenessofgrayhair.They
areappliedexternallyonthehairwithhelpofbrush.
Formula
■Extractofthesepowdergivebrownishblackcolor.
16
S.N
O
INGREDIENTS %
1.Lawsoniainermispower75
2 Indigoferatinctoria 20
3 Quercusinfectoria
powder
5
HAIR COLORANTS
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17. RED HAIR COLOR ENHANCER
■½ cup beet juice
■½ cup carrot juice
FOR GRAY HAIR
■½ cup dried sage
■¼ cup dried rosemary
FOR BLONDE HAIR
■6 chamomile tea bags
■½ cup plain yogurt and oil of lavender
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18. HAIR CREAM
■Herbalhairoilprocessedintocreamarealsoveryuseful
asdressingpreparationsinhairgrooming.
■Itservesthepurposeofhairoilwithoutitsgreasiness.
■BasicallythesecreamareO/Wtypeemulsion.
Formula
18
S.NOINGREDIENTS %
1 Herbal hair oil 30
2 Triethanolamine 10
3 Glycerin 10
4 water 45
5 Borax 5
6 perfume QS
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19. HERBAL INGREDIENT USED IN
ORAL CARE
■Oralhygieneproductsareusedforkeepingtheteeth,
gumsandtheoralcavityclean.
■Thehealthofindividualisreflectedthroughsparkling
teeth,dazzlingwhitecolorandtightteethandgums.
ORALCAREANDORALHYGIENEPRODUCT:
❑ToothPowders
❑Toothpastes
❑Garglingsolution
❑Mouthwash
❑Tartarremover
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20. ■MouthwashesandGarglingsolution,madeupof
astringent,antibacterialandanti-inflammatoryherbs
areselected,itsusedforcareoforalcavity.
TYPICALORALCAREINGREDIENTS
■Sweeteners:Glycerin,Glucose,Sodiumcyclamate,
Sorbitol,Saccharin,Steviapowder.
■Abrasives:Calciumcarbonate,Calcium
Diphosphate,Calciumtriphosphate,Magnesium
aluminumsilicate,,Charcoalpower.
■Flavoringsagent:Peppermintoil,Wintergreenoil,
Cinnamonoil,Cloveoil,,Anethol,Menthol.
■Bindingagent:CMC,Sodiumalginate,Gum
Acacia,Gumtragacanth,Bentonite.
■Preservatives:MethylparabenandPropylparaben.
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21. HERBSBOTANICAL
NAME /COMMON
NAME
PARTS
USED
PROPERTY
Acacia arabica(Babool) Stem barkAstringent
Achyranthesaspera(Prickly
chaff flower)
Entire plantAstringent
Anacycluspyrethrum
(Chamomile)
Root Toothache
Azadirachtaindica(Neem)Stem bark Antibacterial
Syzygiumaromatum Buds Toothache
Ficusbenghalensis Root Gum tightening
21
LIST OF PLANT USED IN DENTAL CARE AND
ORAL HYGIENE PREPARATIONS
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22. TOOTH POWDER
S.
NO
INGREDIENTS %
1 Calcium Carbonate50
2 Celite 30
3 Sodium chloride5
4 Hard soap powder5
5 Herbal powder mix10
6 Flavoring agentQS
22
BASE
S.NOINGREDIENTS PART
1 Mimusopselengifruits
bark
2.5
2 Azadirachtaindica-bark 2.5
3 Acacia arabica-bark 2.5
4 Pongamiaglabra-bark 2.5
HERBAL POWERMIX
S.NOINGREDIENTS PAR
T
1 Cinnamonoil 2
2 Clove oil 2
3 Peppermint 2
4 Neem, Karangia
oils
4
FLAVOUR –ESSENTIONALOIL
MIX
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23. TOOTHPASTE
■These are pastes meant for cleaning teeth from tartar and
plaque.
Formula:
23
S.
NO
INGREDIENT
S
%
1 Herbal tooth
powder
70
2 Detergent 3
3 Flavouringagent3
4 Water 20
5 Sweetener 4
6 Glycerin Q.S
7 Sodium alginateQ.S
S.NOINGREDIENTS PART
1 Clove oil 2
2 Cinnamon oil 2
3 Peppermintoil2
FLAVOURING AGENT
BASE
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24. TARTAR REMOVER
■Tartaranditsincrustationaredissolvedbytheherbal
powdermix.Thus,itactasatartarremoverandapolishing
product.
24
S.
NO
INGREDIENTS %
1Siliceous earth80
2Celitepowder 5
3Soap powder 2
4Magnesium
carbonate
5
5Menthol 1
6Clove oil 1
7Cinnamon oil1
S.NOINGREDIENTS PART
1 Cocoapowder 10
2 Prunusamygdalus
tree root bark
2
HERBAL EXTRACTS MIX
BASE
Formula
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25. GARGLING SOLUTION
■Garglingsolutionsmadeupofherbalpowderand
waterareusefulintakingcareoftheoralmouth,
makingitfreefromanyinflammation,painor
bleedingofgumintoothcavities.
■Thesearegenerallyusedwheneverthereiseithera
throatorgumorteethinfectionintheoralcavity.
25
S.NOINGREDIENTS %
1 Terminaliachebula-
power
5
2 Ficusbenghalensis 5
3 Punicagranatum-powder5
4 Azadirachtaindica 5
Formula
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26. MOUTHWASH
■Garglesandmouthwashesareusedaftercleaningthe
oralcavity,leavingitfreshandfreefrombadodor,with
tinglingeffect.
■Mouthwashesaremostlyusedtomaskanyfoulodorof
oralcavityandalsokeepitfresh.
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S.NOINGREDIENT %
1 Thymol 1
2 Peppermint oil 2
3 Wintergreenoil 2
4 Alcohol 3
5 Water 80
6 Glycerin 2
7 Glucose 5
Formula
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27. HERBAL INGREDIENT USED IN SKIN
CARE
■Theherbalapproachofproperskincareisprincipally
basedonthreeessentialsteps.
❖Cleanse
❖Nourish
❖Moisture
■Whatevertypeofskin;thesethreestepsareexternalcare
oftheskintoprotectfromtheconstanteffectof
environmentandskinsnaturalprocessofcell
degradationdecay.
■Thereforeinordertohelptheskinlookyoung,our
beautyproducts&treatmentsmustprovide:
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28. ❖Exfoliationtoremovedeadskincells.
❖Epidermalstimulationfornewcellgrowth.
❖Antioxidantpropertiesforcellularrejuvenationand
repair.
❖Improvecapillarybloodflow.
❖Penetratingmoistureandnutrientstoreplenishall
layersofskin.
Cleansingagent:
■Herbalpowdertocleanandexfoliatetheskinonadaily
basis.
■Whichremovethedust,deadcell&dirtthatclosethe
poresontheskin.
■Someofthecommoncleansersincludevegetableoils
likecoconut,sesameandpalmoil.
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29. ■Facepackcontainingturmericandlimejuiceremoves
deadskincell&refreshtheface.
Moisturizing&Nourishing:
■Ithelpstheskintobecomesoft&supple.
■Itshowsaglowandlesspronetoaging.
■SomeoftheherbalmoisturizerincludeVegetable
glycerin,Sorbitol,Rosewater,Jojabaoil,Aloevera,
Coconutoil,Sandalwoodoil,Almondoil.
■Ithelpstoimprovebloodcirculation,straightenthe
connectivetissue,therebyreducingthewrinklestokeep
theskiningoodcondition.
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30. 30
Skin typeHerbs Fruits face
mask
I DryskinRubiacardifolia, Sariva,Triphala,
GlycyrrizaGlabra, Sesame oil,
Sunflower oil, Aloe , Coconut oil,
Jojoba oil.
Banana or
Avocadopulp
IISensitive
skin
Curcuma longa, Santalamalba,
Triphala, Azadirachtaindica.
Banana or
Pineapple
pulp
III Oil skinTulasi,Nimba, Terminaliaarjuna,
Triphala, Curcuma longa, Mustakain
mostardoil,
Strawberry or
papaya pulp
HERBAL CLEANING POWDERS
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31. HERBAL SKIN PREPARATION
Name Important herbal
constituents
uses
Almond lanolin
under eye cream
Almond oil, lanolin Remove dark circles
around the eyes,
nourishes and clears
skin.
Vitaminsed
nourishingcream
Wheatgerm oil,
cabbage
Provide skin a
meaning full look
without greasy
Aloe Vera rehydant
cleansing cream
Aloe Vera ,lemon
extract, carrot
extract
Removes impurities
from skin surface,
without disturbing
its moisture balance
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32. TYPES OF HERBAL CREAM
COLDCREAM
■ItisanW/Oemulsioninwhichthefatpredominates,but
thecoolingeffectproducedwhenitisappliedtotheskinis
duetoslowevaporationofthewatercontained.
Formula:
Almond oil 550 parts
White bees wax 145 parts
Borax 10 parts
Water 290 parts
Rose water 5 parts
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33. VANISHING CREAM
■Vanishingcreamsarealsocalledfoundationcreams,Itis
anO/Wemulsiontheydisappearswhenrubbedintoskins.
Formula:
Stearicacid 130parts
Boraxcrystals 28parts
Sodiumcarbonate12parts
Water 740parts
Rosewater 9parts
Patchoulioil 1part
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34. NOURISHING CREAM
Formula
Coconut oil -45ml
Olive oil -30ml
Almond oil -15 ml
Coca butter -30gm
Emulsifying wax -30gm
Bees wax -15gm
Borax -10gm
Distilled water -45ml
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35. HERBAL LOTION
FACELOTION
■Thisalsocalledbleachinglotionsactuallymask,ratherthen
lightenthecolorofskin.
■TheselotionsusuallycontainAlum,ZincoxideorTitanium
dioxidewithvariousproportionofalcohol,Glyceroland
water.
■Asdelicatefleshtintsmayalsoadded,suchproductsoften
servesasliquidpowder.
Formula:
Alum 10part
Zincsulphate 1part
Glycerin 1part
Tinctureofbenzoin1part
EssenceofRose 30drop
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36. SUN BURN LOTION
■Thepurposeofsunburnlotionistoassisttheskinin
tanningwithoutpainfuleffect.
■Thepurposeofanti-burningpreparationistominimize
theharmfuleffectsofsunburn.
■Thematerialusedforabovepurposeareknownassun
tanningagent&sunburnpreventiveagentsrespectively
=sunscreens.
■Tanningagentsarethosesunscreenswhichabsorba
minimumof85%UVR(wavelengthsof2900-3200Å)but
transmitUVRwavelengthlongerthan3200Å-produce
lighttransienttan.
■Sunburnpreventiveagentarethosesunscreenswhich
absorbmorethan95%ofmoreUVR(wavelengthsof
2900-3200Å).
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37. ■Anothertypeofsunburnpreventiveagentwhichscatter
thesunlight.
■TheseincludeTitaniumdioxide,kaolin,Zincoxide,
Calciumcarbonateandmagnesiumoxide.
Formula:-
Lemon juice 5ml
Xanthanpowder 2.5gml
Castor oil 5ml
Avocado oil 15ml
Essential oil 3ml
Titanium Dioxide 0.2gm
Hot distilled water 60ml
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38. ANTI-WRINKLE LOTION
Formula:
Vitisvinifera(Grapes) 10ml
Citrus lemon 5ml
Solanumlycopersicum(tomato) 20ml
Aloe-verafresh gel 50ml
MOISTURISING LOTION
Formula:
Aloe-verajuice 1000ml
Wheat germ oil 100ml
Bees wax 50gm
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39. REVIEW OF GUIDELINES FOR HERBAL
COSMETICS BY PRIVATE BODIES LIKE
COSMOS WITH RESPECT -
PRESERVATIVES, EMOLLIENTS,
FOAMING AGENTS, EMULSIFIERS AND
RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS.
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40. COSMOS
■COSMOSstandsfor"cosmeticorganicandnatural
standard",whichsetscertificationrequirements
fororganicandnaturalcosmeticsproductsintheeurope.
■Itwasdevelopedbyfivemembers:
❖BDIH (Germany).
❖Cosmebio(France).
❖Ecocert(France).
❖Icea(Italy).
❖Soil association (great Britain).
■Thestandardisrecognizedgloballybythecosmetic
industry.
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41. ■Byadheringtospecificguidelines,cosmeticsmarketers
canuseCOSMOS signatures,whichare
registeredtrademarks,onpackagingtoconfirmthe
productsmeetminimumindustryrequirementstobe
consideredorganicornatural.
Whatdoesitcontain?
■Thecosmos-standardappliestocosmeticproductsthat
aremarketedasorganicornatural.Itsguidingprinciples
areto:
❖Promotetheuseofproductsfromorganicagriculture,
andrespectbiodiversity.
❖Usenaturalresources,andrespecttheenvironment.
❖Useprocessingandmanufacturingthatarecleanand
respectthehumanhealthandenvironment.
❖Integrateanddeveloptheconceptof“greenchemistry”.
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42. PRESERVATIVES
■Preservativesarethechemicalsubstancesusedtoimprove
oramplifyshelflifeofdrugsbydecreasingorloweringthe
oxidationofactiveandexcipientsandbyreducing
microbialproduction
■AccordingtothelatestEcocertandCOSMOSstandardsthe
followingpreservativesareallowedincosmeticproducts
certifiedasnaturalandorganic:
■Phenoxyethanol–Thisingredientisnotapprovedby
COSMOSbutitisacommonpreservativefornatural
formulation.
•Ithasalightroseodor.
•Itiseffectiveagainstsomebacteriaandfungi.Alsogood
againstpseudomonas.
•IthasawidepHrangeandiseffectivefrompH3–10.
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43. ■PhenethylAlcohol–Thisingredientisapprovedby
COSMOSandworkssimilarlytophenoxyethanol.Ithas
astrongerodor.
■Organicsalts,theseinclude
•Benzoicacid,Sodiumbenzoate,Sorbicacid
•Potassiumsorbate,Salicylicacid
•TheseingredientsaremostlyapprovedbytheCOSMOS
standardandareeffectiveagainstfungiandtosome
extentbacteria.
•TheyonlyworkatlowerpHhoweversoifyouusethem
youneedtoformulatebelowpH5.0
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44. EMOLLIENTS
■Emollientisarefattingagent,i.e.Aningredientofa
cosmeticformulationthatprovidestheskinwiththefatit
needs.Itreducesevaporationandthusincreasesthe
moisturecontentoftheskin.
AccordingtoCOSMOSstandardforNatural&Organic
Cosmetics:
■CandelillaCera
■Palmitic&StearicAcid
■IsopropylMyristate
■IsopropylPalmitate
■JojobaEsters/SunflowerSeedWax/AcaciaDecurrens
FlowerWax/Polyglycerin
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45. EMULSIFIERS
■Emulsifiersareusedasadjuvantsforcombiningnon-
misciblefluidsintoanemulsion.
■Theemulsionstabilizersimproveandhelptomaintainthe
stabilityandshelf-lifeofdispersions.
AccordingtoCOSMOSstandardforNatural&Organic
Cosmetics:
■GlycerylStearateCitrate
■GlycerylOleate
■SodiumCocoylGlutamate
■Coco-Betaine
■CocamidopropylBetaine
■DisodiumCocoamphodiacetate
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46. FOAMING AGENTS
■Surfactantsaresurfaceactiveagentswidelyusedin
cosmeticsproductsspeciallyinShampoos,Dentifrices,etc.
■Thesecompoundsarecharacterizedbyfoamproduction
andreductionofsurfaceorinterfacialtension.
AccordingtoCOSMOSstandardforNatural&Organic
Cosmetics:
■Coco-Betaine
■CocamidopropylBetaine
■Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
■Sodium LaurylSulfate
■Decylglucoside
■SodiumLaurylGlucoseCarboxylate(and)Lauryl
Glucoside
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47. RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS
■ThetermRheologyderivedfromtwoGreekwords
namelyrheo(toflow)andlogos(science).
■Rheologyisthesciencethatdealswiththedeformation
ofmatterundertheinfluenceofstressesliketensile
stress,shearingstress,etc.,
■Itdealswiththefluidsflow.
■RheologicaladditivesgenerallyfocusedtoThickeners.
■Theirprimaryroles-flowbehaviormayinclude
detergency,emulsification,foamstabilityor
conditioning.
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48. AccordingtoCOSMOSstandardforNatural&
OrganicCosmetics:
■XanthanGum
■CelluloseGum
■MicrocrystallineCellulose
■MicrocrystallineCellulose(and)CelluloseGum
■CetearylAlcohol
■HydrogenatedRapeseedAlcohol
■ApricotKernelOil(and)HydrogenatedVegetableOil
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49. CHALLENGES IN FORMULATING HERBAL
COSMETICS
■Naturalcosmeticandbeautyproductsarevoguenow
adaysandcosmeticmarketersaroundtheworldare
lookingtolaunchtheirownversionthatappealsto
green-seekingconsumers.
■However,makingnaturalcosmeticsisfraughtwith
difficultiesstemmingfromthefactthatbeauty
productsdonotexistinnature.
■Thebiggestchallengesinmakingnaturalcosmetics
include:
❖Definingwhatisnatural
❖Makingproductsthataresuitablyfunctional
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50. ❖DefiningNatural:
■Forthisdiscussion,useathree-levelclassification
systemofnaturalcosmetics:
■Truenatural-Ingredientsareisolatedfromaplant
andchemicallypurified,butotherwiseunchanged.
■Acceptablenatural-Ingredientsconformtosome
acceptablenaturalstandardthatallowssomechemical
modification.
■Greenwashingnatural-Ingredientsarenaturally
derivedbutrequiresignificantchemicalsynthesisto
produce.
■Themajorityofnaturalproductsonthemarketwould
beconsideredgreenwashed.
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51. ❖MakingFunctionalProducts:
■Thebiggestchallengetomakingnaturalcosmeticsisthat
consumershaveanexpectationofhowwellproductsare
supposedtowork.
■Whenformulatingnaturalcosmetics,itbecomesdifficult
becausenaturalornaturallyderivedingredientsdonot
workaswellassomeofthesyntheticingredients.
■Thisisespeciallytrueforsurfactants,colorantsand
preservatives.
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52. Surfactants
■Surfactantsarethemostversatileandimportantingredients
incosmeticformulations.
■Unfortunately,therearenotmanysurfactantsthatnaturally
occur,sotryingtomakenaturalformulaswithsurfactantsis
arealchallenge.
■Truenatural-Therearenotmanynaturalsurfactantsthat
areadequateforuseascleansers.
■Theclosestaresaponins.Theseareglycosidecompounds
thathavetheabilitytoformfoamwhenputinawater
solution.
■plants(Yuccaschidigera),soapwort(Saponariaofficinalis),
soapbark(Quillajasaponaria)andsoapnut(Sapindusspp).
■Formulatorsreportedusingsaponinsforcleansingproducts
havebeendisappointedintheirperformance
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53. ■Acceptablenatural-accordingtoUSFDAnatural
organicstandards,therearenonaturalsurfactantsyou
canuse.
■Somecompanieslikenourishorganicuseachemical
trickwheretheycreateasurfactantinsitubyincluding
naturalingredientsthatchemicallyreacttomakeasoap.
■Inoneformula,thecoconutoilwillsaponifywiththe
potassiumhydroxide.
Greenwashingnatural-
■TheuseofcleansingsurfactantslikeSLSisprobablynot
agoodidea.
■Sulfateshaveabadreputation,andeventhoughtheyare
considerednaturalbytheCOSMOSstandard.
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54. Colorants
■InUnitedStates,thereisnoingredientmorehighly
regulatedincosmeticsthancolorants.
■Itisillegaltouseanyingredient(nomatterthesource)to
colorcosmeticsthatisnotapprovedbyFDAforsuchuse.
■Thismeansifyouproducingnaturalcosmeticsthecolors
youcanusewillbestrictlylimited.
■Themajorityofapprovedcolorantsaresynthetic
ingredients.
■Evenmineralingredientslikeironoxides,zincoxideand
titaniumdioxideareallsynthetic.
■Theonlyapprovedversionsmustbesynthetically
producedinthelab.
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55. ■Thenaturallyoccurringmineralsaredangerous.
■Thesyntheticversionshavemuchlesscontamination.
■Therearesomecolorantsdon'trequireFDAcertification
andcomedirectlyfromnaturesuchasannatto,
chlorophyllin,carmine,hennaandcaramel.
PreservingProducts
■Weusenaturalingredientsbecomesmorechallenging
becausemicrobesarefoundinnature.
■EffectivepreservativessuchasParabens,formaldehyde
donorsdonotfitwithanaturaltheme,soweneed
alternativessuchasPhenoxyethanol,Phenethylalcohol,
organicacidsandtheirsalts,benzylalcohol,andother
naturalmaterials.
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56. ■PhenoxyethanolandPhenethylalcoholhaveadistinct
odorthatisdifficulttocover.
■OrganicacidsonlyworkaspreservativesatlowerpH
levels,whichisnotidealforcertaintypesofbeautycare
products.
■Benzylalcoholisaknownallergen.
CONCLUSION
■InIndiamorethan70%ofthepopulationuseherbal
cosmeticsforhealthcare.
■ThereisneedtodomoreRandDinthefieldofherbal
cosmeticstoproveeffectivenessandsafetyprofileasper
regulatoryruleandrequirement.
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57. REFERENCES
■RohitkumarBijauliya,ShashiAlok,MayankKumar,
Dilipkumar.AComprehensiveReviewonHerbal
Cosmetics.IntrnationalJournalofPharmaceutical
SciencesandResearch.2017.pg1-10
■LaxmiJoshiS,HarshalPawarA.HerbalCosmeticsand
Cosmeceuticals:Anoverview.NatProdChemRes
.2015:3:2pg2-8
■http://chemistscorner.com/3-challenges-to-formulating-
natural-products
■https://www.naturalproductsinsider.com/beauty/challeng
es-formulating-natural-cosmetic-line
■RajeshKumarNema,KamalSinghRathore,Bal
KrishnaDubey.TextbookofCosmetics.pg257-285
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58. 58
THANK YOU
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