Warp and weft knitting 131225225127-phpapp02 [compatibility mode]
jotish11
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Sep 09, 2016
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About This Presentation
BUBT
Size: 7.44 MB
Language: en
Added: Sep 09, 2016
Slides: 41 pages
Slide Content
Jotish roy
8
th
Intake
ID:12132107059
WARP AND WEFT KNITTING WARP AND WEFT KNITTING
BASIC KNITTING BASIC KNITTING
WEAVING WEAVING--WARPING PROCESS WARPING PROCESS
••Warping Warping--A process of transfer the warp yarn from the single yarn A process of transfer the warp yarn from the single yarn
packages to an even sheet of yarn representing hundreds of ends packages to an even sheet of yarn representing hundreds of ends
and then wound onto a warp beam. and then wound onto a warp beam.
WEAVING WEAVING--SIZING PROCESS SIZING PROCESS
••Sizing/slashing Sizing/slashing--A process to give the strength to the yarn make it A process to give the strength to the yarn make it
smoother and lubricate it (no effect on subsequent process or smoother and lubricate it (no effect on subsequent process or
resulting fabric), also reduce the abrasion by give it thr ough the resulting fabric), also reduce the abrasion by give it thr ough the
section of the section of the slasher slasher..
WEAVING WEAVING--DRAW IN PROCESS DRAW IN PROCESS
Draw Draw--inin--A process of draw every warp yarns through its A process of draw every warp yarns through its
dropper, dropper, headle headleeyes and reed dent. [3] eyes and reed dent. [3]
WEAVING WEAVING--TIE IN PROCESS TIE IN PROCESS
••TieTie--inin-- A process of tying each of a new beam to its A process of tying each of a new beam to its
corresponding end of the old beam when mass producing the corresponding end of the old beam when mass producing the
same fabric. same fabric.
What is Knitting? What is Knitting? What is Knitting? What is Knitting? What is Knitting? What is Knitting? What is Knitting? What is Knitting? What is Knitting? What is Knitting? What is Knitting? What is Knitting? What is Knitting? What is Knitting? What is Knitting? What is Knitting?
Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn
may be turned into cloth or other fine crafts. may be turned into cloth or other fine crafts.
Knitted fabric consists of consecutive loops, Knitted fabric consists of consecutive loops,
called stitches. As each row progresses, a new called stitches. As each row progresses, a new
loop is pulled through an existing loop. The loop is pulled through an existing loop. The
KNITTING KNITTING
often a garment. often a garment. loop is pulled through an existing loop. The loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until active stitches are held on a needle until
another loop can be passed through them. This another loop can be passed through them. This
process eventually results in a final product, process eventually results in a final product,
often a garment. often a garment.
No of threads required for knitting? No of threads required for knitting?
KNIT VS WOVEN KNIT VS WOVEN
KNIT FABRIC KNIT FABRIC WOVEN FABRICWOVEN FABRIC
INTERLOOPING YARNS TO CREATE FABRIC INTERLOOPING YARNS TO CREATE FABRIC INTERLACING YARNS TO CREATE FABRIC INTERLACING YARNS TO CREATE FABRIC
CHEAPER TO PRODUCE CHEAPER TO PRODUCE EXPENSIVEEXPENSIVE TO PRODUCE TO PRODUCE
REQUIRE HIGHER QUALITY YARNS REQUIRE HIGHER QUALITY YARNS CAN USE ANY YARN CAN USE ANY YARN
YARNS MUST BE UNIFORM SO THAT THIN SPOTS YARNS MUST BE UNIFORM SO THAT THIN SPOTS DON’T FORM ON THE FABRIC DON’T FORM ON THE FABRIC
CAN NOT FORM THIN MARKS CAN NOT FORM THIN MARKS
DON’T FORM ON THE FABRIC DON’T FORM ON THE FABRIC KNIT FABRIC IS LESS OPAQUE KNIT FABRIC IS LESS OPAQUE HIGH OPAQUEHIGH OPAQUE
ALLOWS FOR STRETCH + RECOVERY AS BODY ALLOWS FOR STRETCH + RECOVERY AS BODY
MOVES MOVES
LESS STRETCH LESS STRETCH
REQUIRES THICKER AND/OR HEAVIER YARN TO REQUIRES THICKER AND/OR HEAVIER YARN TO
PROVIDE EQUAL COVER TO THAT OF A PROVIDE EQUAL COVER TO THAT OF A
WOVEN WOVEN
EVEN NORMAL EVEN NORMAL THICKNESS YARN CAN GIVE THICKNESS YARN CAN GIVE
HIGHER FABRIC COVER HIGHER FABRIC COVER
WRINKLE RECOVERY SUPERIOR WRINKLE RECOVERY SUPERIOR NEEDNEED TO TREAT FOR WRINKLE FREE QUALITY TO TREAT FOR WRINKLE FREE QUALITY
KNIT VS WOVEN KNIT VS WOVEN
FABRIC FABRICWOVEN FABRIC WOVEN FABRIC
LENGTHWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED “RIBS” AND LENGTHWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED “RIBS” AND
THE CROSSWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED “COURSE” THE CROSSWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED “COURSE”
OR “CROSSGRAIN” OR “CROSSGRAIN”
LENGTHWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED “GRAIN” LENGTHWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED “GRAIN”
AND THE CROSSWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED AND THE CROSSWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED
“CROSSGRAIN” “CROSSGRAIN”
THE MOST STRETCH IS EITHER IN THE CROSSGRAIN THE MOST STRETCH IS EITHER IN THE CROSSGRAIN
THE MOST STRETCH IS ALWAYS ON THE BIAS THE MOST STRETCH IS ALWAYS ON THE BIAS
THE MOST STRETCH IS EITHER IN THE CROSSGRAIN THE MOST STRETCH IS EITHER IN THE CROSSGRAIN OR THE BIAS OR THE BIAS
THE MOST STRETCH IS ALWAYS ON THE BIAS THE MOST STRETCH IS ALWAYS ON THE BIAS
( DIAGONAL STRETCH) ( DIAGONAL STRETCH)
GENERALLY HAVE MORE STRETCH AND NATURAL GENERALLY HAVE MORE STRETCH AND NATURAL
GIVE GIVE
REQUIRE EASE WHEN SEWING REQUIRE EASE WHEN SEWING
MOLD AND FIT THE CONTOURS OF THE BODY MOLD AND FIT THE CONTOURS OF THE BODY
BETTER BETTER
LOOK GOOD WITH PLEATS AND SHARP LOOK GOOD WITH PLEATS AND SHARP
CORNERS CORNERS
COOL AND BREATHABLE COOL AND BREATHABLE
THICK AND WIND RESISTANT THICK AND WIND RESISTANT
KNIT VS WOVEN KNIT VS WOVEN
FABRIC FABRICWOVEN FABRIC WOVEN FABRIC
EDGES CURL AND SOME KNITS RUN (THINK EDGES CURL AND SOME KNITS RUN (THINK
NYLON PANTY HOSE) NYLON PANTY HOSE)
EDGES ARE PRONE TO RAVEL EDGES ARE PRONE TO RAVEL
NO SEAM FINISH IS REQUIRED, ALTHOUGH NO SEAM FINISH IS REQUIRED, ALTHOUGH
OPTIONAL OPTIONAL
REQUIRES SEAM FINISHING, LIKE SERGING, TO REQUIRES SEAM FINISHING, LIKE SERGING, TO PREVENT RAVEL PREVENT RAVEL
OPTIONAL OPTIONAL
PREVENT RAVEL PREVENT RAVEL
REQUIRES STRETCH STICHES, LIKE ZIG ZAGS REQUIRES STRETCH STICHES, LIKE ZIG ZAGS EASIEST TO SEW ON AND FEED THROUGH A EASIEST TO SEW ON AND FEED THROUGH A
SEWING MACHINE SEWING MACHINE
Types of basic Knits Types of basic Knits Types of basic Knits Types of basic Knits Types of basic Knits Types of basic Knits Types of basic Knits Types of basic Knits
TYPES OF KNITTING TYPES OF KNITTING
WARP WARP
KNITTING KNITTING
WEFT KNITTING WEFT KNITTING
JERSEY KNITS JERSEY KNITS ••Also called single knits Also called single knits
••Economical to produce Economical to produce
••Knit stitches on front/ Purl stitches on Knit stitches on front/ Purl stitches on
backback
WEFT KNITTING WEFT KNITTING
backback
RIB KNITS RIB KNITS ••Knit and purl wales alternate across width Knit and purl wales alternate across width PURL KNIT PURL KNIT ••Alternate courses of knit and purl stitches Alternate courses of knit and purl stitches
on both sides of the fabric on both sides of the fabric
FLAT KNITTING FLAT KNITTING ••Polo t shirt collar and cuff Polo t shirt collar and cuff
••Sweaters Sweaters
••
Scarves Scarves
TYPES OF KNITTING TYPES OF KNITTING
Scarves Scarves
WRAP KNITTING WRAP KNITTING ••Lingerie Lingerie
••Home furnishing Home furnishing
••Net fabric garments and related items Net fabric garments and related items
WEFT WEFT
CIRCULAR CIRCULAR
TYPES OF KNITTING TYPES OF KNITTING
KNITTING KNITTING
WEFT WEFT
FLATFLAT
WARPWARP
Flat bed machine can Flat bed machine can Flat bed machine can Flat bed machine can
manufacture, manufacture,
••Woolen fabric Woolen fabric
••
Full cardigan Full cardigan
FLAT BED KNITTING FLAT BED KNITTING
••
Full cardigan Full cardigan
••Half cardigan Half cardigan
••Milano Milano
••Half Milano Half Milano
••
Rib structure Rib structure
Circular knitting machine can Circular knitting machine can Circular knitting machine can Circular knitting machine can
manufacture, manufacture,
••T shirt jersey fabric T shirt jersey fabric
••
Pique fabric Pique fabric
CIRCULAR KNITTING CIRCULAR KNITTING
••
Pique fabric Pique fabric
••Rib Rib
••Interlock Interlock
••Socks Socks
••
Lycra blend fabric Lycra blend fabric
STITCH STITCH The loop of yarn formed by the knitting process The loop of yarn formed by the knitting process
Knit Knit
GAGE OR GAUGE GAGE OR GAUGE the density of knitting machine needles, and the number of the density of knitting machine needles, and the number of
KNITTING TERMINOLOGY KNITTING TERMINOLOGY
the density of knitting machine needles, and the number of the density of knitting machine needles, and the number of knitting needles per inch (approx. 2.54cm). knitting needles per inch (approx. 2.54cm).
The smaller the figure, the coarser the stitch, and vice versa The smaller the figure, the coarser the stitch, and vice versa
COURSES COURSES A series of successive loops laying crosswise A series of successive loops laying crosswise COURSES COURSES A series of successive loops laying crosswise A series of successive loops laying crosswise
in the in the
Fabric Fabric
FACE/BACK FACE/BACK Just like a woven fabric, there is a face and a Just like a woven fabric, there is a face and a back to back to
KNITTING TERMINOLOGY KNITTING TERMINOLOGY
Just like a woven fabric, there is a face and a Just like a woven fabric, there is a face and a back to back to the knitted fabric the knitted fabric CUTCUT The fineness of weft knits made on a circular The fineness of weft knits made on a circular
knitting knitting
Machine Machine
The higher the gauge or cut number, the The higher the gauge or cut number, the
The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure
KNITTED LOOP STRUCTURE KNITTED LOOP STRUCTURE
The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure These are termed ‘courses’ and ‘wales’ These are termed ‘courses’ and ‘wales’
respectively. respectively.
A COURSE A COURSE A course is a predominantly horizontal row A course is a predominantly horizontal row
of needle loops (in an upright fabric as of needle loops (in an upright fabric as
knitted) produced by adjacent needles knitted) produced by adjacent needles
during the same knitting cycle during the same knitting cycle
KNITTED LOOP STRUCTURE KNITTED LOOP STRUCTURE
The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure The knitted loop structure A WALE A WALE A wale is a predominantly vertical column of A wale is a predominantly vertical column of
intermeshed needle loops generally intermeshed needle loops generally
produced by the same needle knitting at produced by the same needle knitting at
successive (not necessarily all) knitting successive (not necessarily all) knitting
cycles. cycles.
••
Single jersey is the simplest to knit and it can be Single jersey is the simplest to knit and it can be
••Single jersey is the simplest to knit and it can be Single jersey is the simplest to knit and it can be
produced either on circular or flat machines by means of produced either on circular or flat machines by means of
one set of needles which draw their loops to only one one set of needles which draw their loops to only one
side of the fabric. side of the fabric.
••The fabric has one appearance on the face side and a The fabric has one appearance on the face side and a
different one on the reverse. The side on which the different one on the reverse. The side on which the
straight parts of the stitches appear in V formation is straight parts of the stitches appear in V formation is
called the face side ( Technical Face) and the reverse side called the face side ( Technical Face) and the reverse side
SINGLE JERSEY OR PLAIN SINGLE JERSEY OR PLAIN
FABRIC FABRIC
( Technical Back ) has twin rows of opposed semi circles. ( Technical Back ) has twin rows of opposed semi circles. called the face side ( Technical Face) and the reverse side called the face side ( Technical Face) and the reverse side ( Technical Back ) has twin rows of opposed semi circles. ( Technical Back ) has twin rows of opposed semi circles.
••Simplest knit structure. Simplest knit structure.
••Face side smooth and sheen. Face side smooth and sheen.
••Back side rough and dull. Back side rough and dull.
••Lighter fabric. Lighter fabric.
••Economical. Economical.
••
Easily ravels at both the ends. Easily ravels at both the ends.
PROPERTIES OF SINGLE JERSEY PROPERTIES OF SINGLE JERSEY ••
Easily ravels at both the ends. Easily ravels at both the ends.
••Highly extensible in length and width. Highly extensible in length and width.
••The fabric curls towards the face at the top and The fabric curls towards the face at the top and
bottom and towards the back at the sides. bottom and towards the back at the sides.
••Laddering is very common in these fabrics. Laddering is very common in these fabrics.
••Knitted loops in plain knit fabrics tend to distort Knitted loops in plain knit fabrics tend to distort
easily under tension which helps to give a form easily under tension which helps to give a form
fitting and comfort due to property of elastic. fitting and comfort due to property of elastic.
End Uses of Jersey End Uses of Jersey
Knits; Knits;
••Sheets Sheets
••
Sweaters Sweaters
USE OF SINGLE JERSEY USE OF SINGLE JERSEY
••
Sweaters Sweaters
••TT--s h i r t s s h i r t s
••Men’s underwear Men’s underwear
••Dresses Dresses
••Hosiery Hosiery
Jersey Knit Jersey Knit Jersey Knit Jersey Knit
Variations Variations
Fleece Fleece
Intarsia Intarsia
Jacquard knits Jacquard knits
VARIATIONS OF SINGLE VARIATIONS OF SINGLE
JERSEY JERSEY
Jacquard knits Jacquard knits Knitted terry Knitted terry
Knitted velour Knitted velour
Lisle Lisle
Plaited knits Plaited knits
Silver Silver--pile knits pile knits
••AA fabric fabric ininwhich whichboth bothback back
andandface face loops loops occur occur along alongthethe
course, course, butbut allall thethe loopsloops
contained containedwith withininanyany walewale areare
ofofthethesamesametypestypes
••
AA
ribrib
structure structure
implies implies
aa
RIB FABRIC RIB FABRIC
••
AA
ribrib
structure structure
implies implies
aa
knitted knittedfabric fabric withwithface face andand
back backloops loops occurring occurringininthethe
same same courses courses butbut notnot ininthethe
same samewalewale
••RibRibfabric fabric cancanbebe produced producedonon
VV –– bed bedmachine machine andandfootwear footwear
machine machine..
••
Rib is produced by two sets of needles being Rib is produced by two sets of needles being
••Rib is produced by two sets of needles being Rib is produced by two sets of needles being
alternately set orated between each other. alternately set orated between each other.
••The simplest rib in (1 * 1) rib The simplest rib in (1 * 1) rib
••It is now normally knitted with two sets of latch It is now normally knitted with two sets of latch
needles and known as double jersey fabric. needles and known as double jersey fabric.
••Rib has a vertical cord appearance Rib has a vertical cord appearance
••
Relaxed 1 x 1 rib is twice as thick and half the Relaxed 1 x 1 rib is twice as thick and half the PROPERTIES OF RIB FABRIC PROPERTIES OF RIB FABRIC
••
Relaxed 1 x 1 rib is twice as thick and half the Relaxed 1 x 1 rib is twice as thick and half the
width of an equivalent plain fabric. width of an equivalent plain fabric.
••1 x 1 rib normally relaxes by 30% compound with its 1 x 1 rib normally relaxes by 30% compound with its
knitting width. knitting width.
••Rib cannot be unroved from the end knitted first Rib cannot be unroved from the end knitted first
because the sinker loops are securely anchored by because the sinker loops are securely anchored by
the cross meshing between face and reverse loop. the cross meshing between face and reverse loop.
••It is used for loops for socks, cuffs of sleeves, r ib It is used for loops for socks, cuffs of sleeves, r ib
bordery bordery
for garments. for garments.
End Uses of Rib End Uses of Rib
Knits Knits
Collars Collars
Necklines Necklines
USE OF RIB FABRIC USE OF RIB FABRIC
Necklines Necklines Cuffs Cuffs
Bottom edges of Bottom edges of
sweaters sweaters
Knit hats Knit hats
Men’s hosiery Men’s hosiery
Double knits Double knits Sometimes called Sometimes called
double jerseys double jerseys
Thicker than jersey Thicker than jersey knits knits
USE OF RIB FABRIC USE OF RIB FABRIC
Thicker than jersey Thicker than jersey knits knits TwoTwo--way stretch way stretch
Very stable Very stable ––will not will not
ladder ladder
Apparel and Apparel and
Upholstery used Upholstery used
••
Both sides of the fabric have an appearance like face side Both sides of the fabric have an appearance like face side
••Both sides of the fabric have an appearance like face side Both sides of the fabric have an appearance like face side
of the single jersey fabric. of the single jersey fabric.
••The structure do nor curl at edges when laid flat on The structure do nor curl at edges when laid flat on
surface surface
••Horizontal and vertical stripes can be produced by using Horizontal and vertical stripes can be produced by using
coloured yarns coloured yarns
••The fabric ravels only from the end knitted last The fabric ravels only from the end knitted last
••
The rate of production is low. The rate of production is low.PROPERTIES OF INTERLOCK PROPERTIES OF INTERLOCK
FABRIC FABRIC
••
The rate of production is low. The rate of production is low.
••Interlock the technical face of plain on both sides so the Interlock the technical face of plain on both sides so the
appearance of face and back are same. appearance of face and back are same.
••The Wales of each side re exactly apposite to each other The Wales of each side re exactly apposite to each other
and are locked together. and are locked together.
••Widthwise and length elongations are approximately the Widthwise and length elongations are approximately the
same as single jersey . same as single jersey .
••The fabric can be unraveled from the knitted last. The fabric can be unraveled from the knitted last.
••Fabric thickness is approximately twice than that of Fabric thickness is approximately twice than that of
single jersey single jersey
..
Double knits Double knits
USE OF INTERLOCK FABRIC USE OF INTERLOCK FABRIC
Double knits Double knits Sweat shirts Sweat shirts
Table mat Table mat
PURL FABRIC PURL FABRIC
PROPERTIES OF PURL PROPERTIES OF PURL
••Both sides of the fabric are similar in appearance to the Both sides of the fabric are similar in appearance to the
reverse side of the single jersey fabric reverse side of the single jersey fabric
••Both sides of the fabric are similar in appearance to the Both sides of the fabric are similar in appearance to the
reverse side of the single jersey fabric reverse side of the single jersey fabric
••Ravels from both ends Ravels from both ends
••Twice the thickness of the plain jersey Twice the thickness of the plain jersey
••Rate of production is low Rate of production is low
••Almost equal extensibility in length and width Almost equal extensibility in length and width
••Most suitable for children’s garments, blankets shawls Most suitable for children’s garments, blankets shawls
and scarf etc. and scarf etc.
••
Purl is reversible structure the both side appearance are Purl is reversible structure the both side appearance are
••
Purl is reversible structure the both side appearance are Purl is reversible structure the both side appearance are same. same.
••Extensibility is same as all direction. Extensibility is same as all direction.
••There is no curling tendency.(it does not curl at the There is no curling tendency.(it does not curl at the
edges. edges.
••The fabric will run in the wale direction starting from The fabric will run in the wale direction starting from
either end. either end.
••The fabric tends to be two or three times thicker than The fabric tends to be two or three times thicker than
single jersey. single jersey.
••
There are two types of purl needle bed machine: flat bed There are two types of purl needle bed machine: flat bed
End Uses for Purl End Uses for Purl
Knits Knits
USE OF PURL FABRIC USE OF PURL FABRIC
Infant and Infant and
children’s wear children’s wear
Sweaters Sweaters
Scarves Scarves
Warp Knits Warp Knits Warp Knits Warp Knits
••Second major category of knit fabrics Second major category of knit fabrics
••Characterized by vertical loops Characterized by vertical loops
••More resistant to laddering than weft More resistant to laddering than weft
knits knits
WARP KNITTING WARP KNITTING
knits knits
••Usually done on flat knitting machine Usually done on flat knitting machine
••Two main types of warp knitting Two main types of warp knitting
machine machine
(name = machine and fabric name) (name = machine and fabric name)
* * TrTri c o t i c o t
* Raschel * Raschel
Characteristics of Tricot Knits Characteristics of Tricot Knits
Good elasticity Good elasticity
Best of warp knits Best of warp knits
Inexpensive and quick to produce Inexpensive and quick to produce
WARP KNITTING WARP KNITTING
Inexpensive and quick to produce Inexpensive and quick to produce Curls along crosswise edge Curls along crosswise edge
Good air and water permeability Good air and water permeability
Soft Soft
Crease resistant Crease resistant
Good Good drapeability drapeability
End Uses for Tricot Knits End Uses for Tricot Knits
Lingerie Lingerie
Nightwear Nightwear
Blouses Blouses
WARP KNITTING WARP KNITTING
Blouses Blouses Dresses Dresses
Used as a backing fabric in multi Used as a backing fabric in multi--
component structures component structures
Limited interior uses because of high Limited interior uses because of high
elongation elongation
Raschel Knits Raschel Knits
Similar to Tricot Knits Similar to Tricot Knits
Greater diversity in design Greater diversity in design
Differences between Raschel and Tricot Differences between Raschel and Tricot
WARP KNITTING WARP KNITTING
Differences between Raschel and Tricot Differences between Raschel and Tricot Knits Knits
Raschel has: Raschel has:
More texture More texture
Open spaces Open spaces
Made from heavier yarns Made from heavier yarns
Variations and End Uses of Raschel Variations and End Uses of Raschel Knits KnitsVariations and End Uses of Raschel Variations and End Uses of Raschel
Knits Knits
Warp knitted Warp knitted
Fine laces and nets Fine laces and nets
Heavy carpets Heavy carpets Thermal underwear with a waffle Thermal underwear with a waffle
WARP KNITTING WARP KNITTING
Heavy carpets Heavy carpets Thermal underwear with a waffle Thermal underwear with a waffle effect effect
Power Power--
net fabrics for swimsuits and net fabrics for swimsuits and
foundations foundations
Heavy blankets Heavy blankets
May resemble hand crocheted May resemble hand crocheted