Weaving of Satin sateen and dobby

how the weaving is done for satin, sateen and dobby fabric

1. SATIN WEAVE Satin is a cloth that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. A satin is a warp-dominated weaving technique that forms a minimum number of interlacing in a fabric.

2. A satin-woven fabric tends to have a high lustre due to the large number of "floats" on the fabric. Floats are "missed" interlacing, where, the warp yarn lays on top of the weft yarn, or vice versa. The floats tend to make the fabric look glossier as well as give it a smoother hand in most cases. This type of weave requires a minimum set of 5 warps and 5 wefts.

3. SATEEN WEAVE Weft-face Satin is called SATEEN.

4. The basic characteristic of satin/sateen weaves are : They are either warp or weft faced weaves. Have no prominent weave structures. Only one binding point in each end or pick No continuous twill lines Have poor seam strength due to thread mobility More thread density is possible in warp and weft More mass per unit area is possible Have less binding points and more float lengths Use of move numbers (intervals of selection) is necessary to construct these weaves. Type to enter a caption. Type to enter a caption. SATIN SATEEN

5. In the construction of satin/sateen weaves, the stitching points of warp or weft for a given repeat size is done by the use of move numbers or stitch or float numbers. The move numbers are selected according to the repeat size of the weave. In choosing move numbers for the construction of satin/sateen weaves, the following rules are to be adopted: The move number should not be equal to the repeat of the weave It should not be one less than the repeat size It should not be a factor of the repeat size, and It should not be a multiple of the factor .

6. QUALITIES - Fabrics made with a sateen weave are very smooth, flat and lustrous on one side. The reverse side is dull and non-shiny. FABRICS WOVEN IN SATEEN WEAVE - Brocade, cotton sateen, damask, satin. USES IN HOME FURNISHINGS - Sateen weave is typically used to make bed linen and curtains. OTHER USES - Purses, Clutches, Scarves, Headgears.

7. DOBBY Dobby weave was first developed in 1840, and although it is woven on a loom, like all types of weaving, Dobby weave requires a special piece of equipment that attaches to the loom. This device is called a ‘Dobby’ and allows for the production of small geometric prints to actually be woven into the fabric.

8. This technique is done by the manipulation of the warp yarns in the fabric. This weave is similar to jacquard, as this uses an attachment for the loom to create these designs. The designs created on a Dobby loom are much less complex than a Jacquard pattern though. Fabrics produced on a Dobby loom usually used two or more different colours of yarns to make the patterns and designs noticeable, it provides an alternative to printing fabric after it has been woven.

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10. Many different patterns can be created on a Dobby Loom but it is more tedious and time consuming than Plain weaving. The design is usually repeated frequently and an all-over patterned fabric is produced. Dobby Weave can use many different fibres such as Cotton, Nylon or Silk. A lot of Dobby fabrics use a combination of these to achieve different properties depending on the requirements of the fabric. Types of fabric produced on a Dobby Loom include Birdseye Cotton, Moss Crepe and Baranthea.

11. Properties of Dobby Woven Fabrics Inexpensive to produce Small geometric patterns More texture than Plain weave fabrics Less complex than Jacquard Fabrics Different colours available Hundreds of different patterns can be made Flexible Versatile Good Drape Slight Stretch Resistant to creasing End Uses of Dobby Woven Fabrics Shirts Dresses Outerwear Polo shirts Handbags