Woven fabric related slide

PARBAT SOURCING LTD.

1. Explaining Textiles A Brief Discussion on Fiber, Yarn & Fabrics

2. Presentation on Woven Fabric & Related Process

3. Content What is Textile? Basic Elements of Textile with Process Flow path Textile Fiber Yarn Manufacturing Process Woven Fabric Manufacturing Process Wet Processing Technology Dyeing & its objects. Theory of Dyeing Name of Dyes used for fabric dyeing Brief discussion on Reactive Dye, Disperse Dye & Pigment Textile Printing & Textile Finishing 4-Point Inspection System List of fabric defects in woven fabric Fabric Design & Structure Textile Testing with Parameters VF Sportswear Coalition Fabric work process description with other details.

4. Textile Fiber

5. Textile : A textile was originally from a woven fabric. But the terms textile & the plural textiles are now also applied to fibers, filaments & yarns. Natural & manufactured and most of the products for which these are a principal raw material.

6. Fiber: Fiber has been defined by the textile institute as units of matter by flexibility, fineness & high ratio of length to thick. Length: Width = 1000:1 Classification of Fiber: Glass Nylon Polyester Viscose Etc Hair Wool Silk Cotton Tencel Lycra Natural Fiber Man Made Fiber Fiber Etc

7. Chemical Composition of Cotton: Cellulose : 80-90% Water : 5-7% Waxes & Fats : 0.5-1% Protein & Pectin : 3-5% Ash : 1-1.8% General Characteristics of Cotton: Comfortable & Soft Hand. Good Absorbency. Color Retention. Good Strength. Drapes Well. Easy to Handle & Sew. End Use of Cotton: Apparel: Wide range of wearing apparels like Shirts, Pants, Children’s Wear, Active Wear, Swimwear, Suits, Jackets, Skirts, Sweaters, Hosiery etc. Home Fashions: Use in Curtains, Draperies, Bed sheets, Bed covers, Towels, Table Cloths, Napkins etc.

8. Jute Flax Hemp Ramie Manila Sisal Silk Wool Alpaca Camel Cashmere Kapok Llama Mohair Asbestos   Picture of Natural Fibers

9.   Picture of Manufactured Fibers Viscose Rayon Cellulose Acetate Acrylic Nylon Fibre Azlon Fibre Glass Fibre

10. Yarn Manufacturing Process How Fiber Converts Into Yarn

11. Spinning : Spinning is a major part of the textile industry. It is part of the textile manufacturing process where fiber are converted into yarn, then fabrics. Spinning is the twisting together of drawn out strands of fibers to form yarn, though it is colloquially used to describe the process of drawing out, inserting the twist, and winding onto bobbins. This is discussed under as Yarn manufacturing Technology.

12. Yarn: Yarn have been defined a product of substantial length & relatively small cross-section consisting of fiber or filament with or without twist. Classification of Yarn: Yarn may be classified on the basis of structure – Single Yarn Multi Folded Yarn Cabled Yarn Complex Yarn Fancy Yarn

13. Raw Cotton Mixing Blow Room Pre Comber draw Frame Lap former Comber First draw frame Finisher draw Frame Simplex Ring Winding Conditioning Packing Flow Chart of Yarn: Process flow chart for Carded/Combed (Ring) yarn:

14. Raw Cotton Mixing Blow Room Carding Open End Packing Process flow chart for Open End (OE) yarn:

15. Hopper Melted Melting Pump Filter Spinneret Coverage guide Spin finish Traversing Guide Wounded Up Process flow chart for Polyester/Nylon/Polypropylene/Lycra yarn:

16. Flow Path of Yarn Manufacturing Blowroom Raw Cotton Chute Chute Carding Carded Sliver Carded Sliver Drawframe Drawn Sliver

17. Flow Path of Yarn Manufacturing Simplex Roving Roving Ring Frame Yarn Over Bobbin Winding Drawn Sliver Yarn Over Bobbin Yarn Cone

18. Main Properties of Yarn: Average Count TPI ( Twist per inch) Yarn Evenness(Um) Thin Places (+/- 50%) Thick Places (+/- 50%) Naps (+/- 200%) Hairiness Tenacity(CN/Tex) Count Strength Product(C.S.P) Etc

19. Trade Name of Polyester: Country Trade Name UK Terylene USA Dacron USA Fortrel Japan Tetron Japan Trevia Trade Name of Spandex: Country Trade Name Dupont Lycra Japan Royca Taiwan Ceoro Taiwan Acelan China Texlon Singapur Investa

20. Yarn Count Calculation: Yarn Count: Yarn count have been defined a numerical expression which defines its fineness. It is also called as yarn number or linear density. Example: 30’s, 40’s, Tex105 Etc Classification of Yarn Count : There are two types of count– Indirect system: English (Cotton), French (Cotton), Metric, Liner, Worsted & Woolen. Direct system: Silk-Nylon, Jute-Hemp, Tex & Denier.

21. Indirect System: It has been defined as the number of units of length per unit weight of a yarn. In this case, higher the count, finer the yarn. This system is generally used for cotton, woolen, worsted Etc. Where, N = Yarn numbering system, L = Sample length, W = Sample weight, w = unit weight, l = unit weight. Example: If the weight of 500 meters of yarn in 100 grams, calculate the yarn count in English system. Solution: Where, w = 453.60 gms & l = 840 Yds (Fixed)

22. Direct System: It has been defined as the number of units of weight per unit length of a yarn. In this case, higher the count, coarser the yarn. This system is generally used for Silk, Nylon, and Jute Etc. Where, Tex = Yarn numbering system, L = Sample length, W = Sample weight, w = unit weight, l = unit weight. Example: If the weight of 500 meters of yarn in 100 grams, calculate the yarn count in Tex system. Solution: Where, l = 1000m & w = 1 gms

23. Conversion of Count From one Count to Another :

24. Woven Fabric Manufacturing Process How Yarn Converts Into Woven Fabric

25. Fabric Design & Structure: Fabric Design & Fabric Structure are related to each other. As we know woven fabric is produced by interlacement of warp & weft yarn. This interlacement of yarn is done by following a pattern, which gives the fabric a particular design. On the other hand, beside design of woven fabric few other parameters like count of warp yarn & weft yarn, number of warp yarn per inch, number of weft yarn per inch are responsible to establish structure of woven fabric. So we can say that the pattern of warp & weft yarn interlacement in weaving and necessary parameters related to count & construction of fabric can be defined as Fabric Design & Structure.

26. Fabric: Fabric have been defined as a flexible planar substance constructed from solutions, fibers, yarns or fabrics in any combination. Textile fabrics can be produced directly from webs of fibers by bonding, fusing or interlocking to make non-woven fabrics & felts but their physical properties tend to restrict their potential end usage.

27. Process Flow Chart of Woven Fabric: Yarn from spinning Cone Winding Warping Sizing Drawing Weaving Loom Grey Inspection Folding/Rolling Store

28. Flow Path of Woven Fabric Manufacturing Yarn Cone Creeling Warping Warp Beam Warp Beam Sizing Weavers Beam Weavers Beam Drawing in Denting Looming Looming Weaving Grey fabric ready for processing

29. Rapier Loom Air Jet Loom Water Jet Loom Projectile Loom

30. Classification of fabric: Based on fabric type there are 4 types of fabric – Woven Fabric: Woven fabric have been defined as the interlacing/interlacement of warp & weft yarn where minimum two set of yarn is needed and warp yarn stay in vertical & parallel to the selvedge. Knitting fabric: Knitted fabric have been defined as the interloping/interlocking/intermeshing of warp yarn where minimum one set of yarn is needed. Nonwoven fabric: Nonwoven fabric have been defined as the mechanical/chemical/thermal bonding to make non woven fabric. Braided fabric: Braided fabric have been defined as the intertwining/diagonal/interlacement to make braided fabric where minimum three set of yarn is needed.

31. Based on construction: There are three types of fabric Plain Twill Sateen Plain Weave: Plain weave formed by yarns at right angles passing alternately over and under each other. This is the simplest of the three basic weaves & also least expensive to produce. No technical face or back unless printed in plain weave fabric.

32. General Characteristics of Plain Weave : Smallest design repeat is 2x2. Only 2 held frames in loom can produce plain weave fabric. Fabric structure is compact compare to other weaves. Both sides appearance of fabric remain same in this weave. Used in light weight, medium weight & heavy weight fabrics without any problem. This design can be expressed by 1up & 1down sign in technical field. End Use: Dress, coat, suit, lace, sports, blankets, etc Trade name of Plain fabric: Poplin Sheeting Shirting Voile Cambric

33. Classification of Plain weave: According to cover factor/Compactness: Approximately square cloth: Warp count = weft count Thread density equal i.e EPI = PPI Warp faces & weft faces are equal on both sides of the cloth Warp crimp = weft crimp Warp cover factor = weft cover factor End use: Cheese cloth, surgical dressing, etc.

34. Warp face cloth: Prominence of warp yarn is more than that of weft yarn Finer warp yarn but coarser weft yarn Warp crimp > weft crimp Production cost of this fabric is less than weft face cloth End Use: Denim, Gabardine, etc Weft face cloth: Prominence of weft yarn is more than that of warp yarn Finer weft yarn but coarser warp yarn Weft crimp > warp crimp Production cost of this fabric is high End Use: Cotton firebrick, cotton casement cloth, etc

35. According to alternatively: Balance cloth: Warp count = weft count EPI = PPI Warp faces & weft faces are equal on both sides of the fabric Unbalance cloth: EPI = PPI Warp count ≠ weft count EPI ≠ PPI Warp count = weft count EPI ≠ PPI Warp count ≠ weft count

36. Rib weave Warp Rib Weft Rib Regular Warp Rib Irregular Warp Rib Regular Weft Rib Irregular Weft Rib According to derivatives of plain weaves: Rib Weave: Matt weaves Regular Matt Fancy matt Irregular Matt Stitched Matt Matt Weave:

37. Plain Weave Fabric Warp Rib Fabric(Oxford) Weft Rib Fabric(Ottoman) Basket Weave Fabric(Boxy)

38. Twill Weave: The order of interlacing which causes diagonal lines of warp & weft floats to be formed in the fabric is called twill weave. Twill Fabric has technical face side & back side. Technical face consist diagonal lines in Twill fabric. General Characteristics of Twill Weave: Smallest design repeat is 3x3. Only 3 held frame in loom can produce twill weave fabric. Fabric structure is less compact compare to plain weave fabrics. Diagonal lines appear on fabric surface. Both sides appearance of fabric are different in twill weave. Used in medium weight to heavy weight fabrics mainly for bottoms. This design can be expressed by 2up 1down, 3up 1down, 2up 2 down etc sign in technical field. End Use: Garments, household cloth, industrial cloth, pillow covers, screens, table cloth, upholstery, bed sheets, towels, pants, overcoats, etc.

39. Trade name of Twill fabric : Jean Gabardine Denim Drill Classification of Twill weaves: According to the direction of twill line : S twill: Downward displacement to the interlacing point i.e. twill line is produced by forwarding of each warp yarn to left side respect to each weft yarn. The twill line of this fabric forwards to right to the left Example: 3/1 S twill X X X     X X X X   X X X X   X

40. Z twill: Upward displacement to the interlacing point i.e. twill line is produced by forwarding of each warp yarn to right side respect to each weft yarn. The twill line of this fabric forwards to left to the right. Example: 3/1 Z twill According to the face yarn: Warp face twill Weft face twill Double face twill According to the nature of twill line: Simple twill Expended twill   X X X X X X   X X   X X   X X

41. According to the derivatives of twill weaves: Zigzag/pointed/waved twill Herring bone twill Diamond twill Diaper twill Broken twill Rearranged twill Stepped twill Elongated twill Shaded twill Combined twill Curved twill Most popular twill weave derivatives are – Herringbone Twill Broken Twill Diamond Design

42. Herring bone twill: This twill is produced by reversal of twill direction at a suitable interval unlike zigzag twill & the changing of direction of first warp/weft yarn’s floating condition is reversed of the previous yarn & it is the combination of S & Z twill. According to reversal to direction, two types of Herring bone twill – Horizontal Herring bone twill: Twill direction reverses upon the warp yarn on the principle of herringbone bone. No of warp yarn is double to the no. of weft yarn. Basic continuous twill runs along warp. Broken draft is found. Horizontal stripe effect formed in the fabric. Example: 3/1 Horizontal Herring bone   X X X       X X X X   X       X X   X   X     X   X X     X  

43. Vertical Herring bone twill: Twill direction reverses upon the weft yarn on the principle of herringbone bone. No of weft yarn is double to the no. of warp yarn. Basic twill runs along weft. Straight draft is found. In this fabric vertical stripe effect formed. Example: 3/1 Vertical Herring bone End Use: Suits, coats & ornamented fabric.       X X         X     X   X   X X   X X   X X   X X X X X X  

44. Diamond Design: It is the derivatives of the twill weave Diamond design is found by the combination of horizontal & vertical zig-zag twill No of both warp & weft threads are double than that of the base twill in the repeat In this twill pointed draft is found The design area is divided into 4 equal parts It is divided into equal parts both horizontal & vertical axis Example: 5/3 Diamond design End Use: Towel, Bed cover, Table cloth, Pillow covers, etc X X X       X X X       X X X X X X       X X X X X       X X X X       X X X X X X X       X X       X X X X X X X X X       X     X X X X X   X X X X X         X X X X X       X X X X X     X X X X X           X X X X X   X X X X       X       X X X X X X X X X X           X X X X X     X X X X X       X X X X X         X X X X X   X X X X X             X X X X X X X X X       X X       X X X X X X X       X X X X       X X X X X       X X X X X X       X X X       X X X X X X X X       X       X X X X X

45. Broken Twill: Broken twill is obtained by breaking the twill line of a regular twill Broken twill is formed by dividing the continuous twill repeat in 2 or 3 or 4 sections Broken twill can be made 3 either by warp way & weft way If the threads are divided in warp way direction, it will result a broken draft   Example: 3/3 Broken Twill End Use: Shirting, Suiting, Designed fabrics, etc       X X X     X   X X   X X     X X X X       X X   X     X     X X  

46. 2/1 S-Twill 2/2 Z- Twill 3/1 S-Twill 4/1 Satin S-Twill

47. Herringbone Twill Diamond Twill Diaper Twill Broken Twill

48. Sateen Weave: In Satin/Sateen weave each warp floats over four filling yarns and interlaces with the 5 th filling yarn with a progression of interlacing by two or three to the right or the left. This designed fabric can be produced by simple loom. Fabric technical face & back look significantly different. General Characteristics: Satin represents warp face fabric whereas Sateen represents weft face fabric. This weave can be regular or irregular. Regular weave has minimum repeat size of 5x5 & Irregular weave has 4x4. Only 5 held frame in loom can produce regular satin/sateen weave fabric. Fabric structure is less compact compare to plain and twill weave fabrics. Diagonal lines appear on fabric surface but not as prominent as Twill weave. Fabric surface feels smooth & lustrous as floats are long. Used in medium weight to heavy weight fabrics mainly for bottoms, suits etc. This design can be expressed by 4up 1down, 7up 1down, etc sign in technical field. End Use: Desks wear, curtain, decorative garments, upholstery, lace, coat, suiting, ladies dress, etc

49. Sateen Weft Sateen Warp Sateen Regular Irregular Regular Irregular Classification of Sateen:

50. Calculation of Woven fabric weight: Example: If the consumption of a fabric in below & length in 100 meter, how we can calculate the fabric weight? Solution : There are two types of rule for fabric weight calculation. Please see the blow –

51. How will be deciding the grey Elongation of a fabric from a finish construction? Example: Solution:

52. Denim Fabric Process: Denim fabric can be developed now a days in two different techniques. These are, Slasher Dyeing Method Rope Dyeing Method.

53. Leasing Weavers Beam Weaving Inspection Folding/Rolling Yarn from Spinning Creeling Dyeing Washing Drying Sizing Drying Process Flow path for Slasher Dyeing Process :

54. Process Flow path for Rope Dyeing Process : Leasing Weavers Beam Weaving Inspection Folding/Rolling Yarn from Spinning Rope finishing by Ball warping Dyeing Skying Drying Sizing Drying Canning Direct Warping

55. Comparison between Rope & Slasher Dyeing: SL No. Rope Dyeing Slasher Dyeing 1 Longer Process Shorter Process 2 High production Lee Production 3 Longer Inner size time Shorter Inner time 4 Longer Skying time Shorter Skying time 5 Best Indigo Dyeing Moderate Dyeing 6 Dyeing & Sizing different stage Dyeing & sizing one stage 7 More even Moderate

56. Bottoming: Bottoming have been defined as sulphur dyeing is bottoming & Indigo dyeing is topping. Topping: Topping have been defined as sulphur dyeing is topping & Indigo dyeing is bottoming. Bottoming & Topping: Bottoming & Topping are related directly to sulphur dye where dyeing combined with sulphur & Indigo.

57. Sulphur Dyeing Washing Indigo Dyeing Washing Oxidation Washing Indigo Dyeing Washing Sulphur Dyeing Washing Oxidation Washing Process Flow path for Bottoming : Process Flow path for Topping :

58. Oxidation of Dyed Yarn: By skying of dyed yarn after each dip. Normally skying time 60 to 90 second. When yarn goes lighter to darker it means oxidation is complete. Skying time does not make oxidation completely & that is why it is preferable after skying oxidation by oxidizing agent. Causes of Incomplete Oxidation: Inadequate skying time. Overcrowding of yarn the width of range. Excess dyes pick up. Low air movement. High humidity. Uneven dye pick up. Imbalance chemical. Less chemical oxidation or less washes off by water.

59. ∆E: ∆E is the color deference from standard to sample. Maximum value of ∆E will be 1. If ∆E ≤1 then result is OK If ∆E ≥1 then result is not OK Factor Related with ∆E: ∆L=+means lighter = Next to reduce the lighter. ∆L=-means Darker = Next to increase the lighter. ∆a=+means Redder = Next to reduce the redder. ∆a=-means Greener(Less red) = Next to increase the redder. ∆b=+means Yellowish = Next to reduce the yellow. ∆b=-means Bluish = Next to reduce the Blue. +L +b +a -a -b -L

60. Relation among ∆L, ∆a & ∆b : Calculation value of ∆E (V10101-1): If value of ∆L=0.01, ∆a=-0.41 & ∆b=-0.43,then ∆E value-

61. Standard light source: Day light, D-65, D-95 Shop light, TL-83, TL-84 A Light target Cool White Flurscent , CWF Note: Mainly we are using D-65 & CWF in textile sector. Color: Color is the reflection of light. Higher the wave length, higher the reflection. Black = Reflection is very less White = Reflection is very high Violet = Minimum wave length Red = Maximum wave length Color Vision Factor: There are two types- Human color vision factor Computer color vision factor

62. Human color vision factor: Sex – Male & Female Height – Maximum, minimum & medium Angle of viewing - 0º, 45º, 60º, 90º, 180º, 270º, 360º Condition of viewing – Natural color, Grey color & Reflection color Relative Humidity & Temperature – RH=65% & Temperature 21±1 º Condition of eyes – Good or excellent Sample size Computer color vision Factor: Equation – CMC method (Color measuring comity) Observing angle - 0º, 45º, 60º, 90º, 180º, 270º, 360º Measuring area – 30 mm or small size Measurement – for plane 2 reading (0º, 90º) & for twill 4 reading (0º, 90º, 180º & 270º) Sample size Folding of sample Fabric structure Calibrations of machine

63. Metamerism : When two color objects look alike under one viewing condition but look different under another viewing condition, we say that metamerism taking. Classification of metamerism : There are 5 types of metamerism – Illumination metamerism : When the color of two space match under one illumination but does not match in another, then it is called illumination metamerism . Observer metamerism : When the color of two space match under one observer but does not match in another, then it is called observer metamerism . Geometric metamerism : When the color of two space match under one set of viewing condition, but does not match if we change the geometrics such as illuminant & viewing, then it is called geometric metamerism . Field size metamerism : When the color of two space match under one place of visual distance viewing but does not match when change the visual distance of field or distance of viewing, then it is called field size metamerism . Instrumental metamerism : When the color of two space match under one set of instrument but does not match under other set of instrument, then it is called instrument metamerism .

64. Textile Testing & Quality Control How Quality Parameters of Finished Fabric Testing in Lab

65. Textile Testing & its nessery : Textile testing is a process by which different quality parameter of a particular textile product can be tested in laboratory to ensure the required quality of that finished goods. Mainly there are four objectives of textile testing, Ensuring quality conformance of product. Checking quality of final products in terms of performance & safety. Improving manufacturing process in a cost effective manner. Ensuring customer satisfaction There are different testing equipments available in texting laboratory by which textile products can be tested. For testing of goods, there are various methods available also. These are like , -AATCC Method(American Association of Textile Chemists & Colorists) -ASTM Method(American Society for Testing and Materials) -ISO Method(International Organization for Standardization)

66.   Testing Parameters of Woven fabric: There are few physical and chemical parameters available for which woven fabrics are tested in testing laboratory after processing. Below all testing parameters are mentioned sequentially along with test methods: Parameters Requirement Fiber Content (ISO1833/5088) According to fabrication Fabric Weight (ASTM D 3776) According to count, construction. Fabric Shrinkage (AATCC 135, 3 washes) 0 to -4% Distortion after washing (AATCC 179, 3 washes) 4% Appearance after washing Satisfactory (Based on observation) PH Value (ISO 3071) 4-7.5 Tensile Strength (ASTM D5034) Depends on fabric wt, 20-50lbs. Tearing Strength (ASTM D1424) Depends on fabric wt, 1.5-3lbs. Color Fastness to Crocking (AATCC 8) Dry>3.5, Wet>3.0 Color Fastness to Light (AATCC 16E 20 AFU) 3.5 Color Fastness to Washing (AATCC 61 IIA) Color Change>4, Color Stain>3 Color Fastness to Water (AATCC 107) Color Change>4, Color Stain>3 Color Fastness to Perspiration (AATCC 15) Color Change>4, Color Stain>3 Pilling Resistance [After 3 HW] (ASTM D3512, 30 min) 3.5 Stretch & Recovery [For Stretch Fabric only] (ASTM D3107) 15% Stretch, 8% Growth

67. Draft Recommendation: Draft recommendation should be as minimum as possible- Denier Draft 20D 2.8 44D 3.5 70D 3.8 140D 4

68. How to calculate Spandex from a fabric? Solution: Spandex in Yarn:

69. Spandex in Fabric:

70. Shrinkage test(AATCC-179/1): Procedure: At first we need to take 50 cm squire a fabric cutting. Then need to over lock sewing this fabric. After that need to do 3 wash under 60ºC for woven with or without chemical. Then relaxation for 2-3 hours.

71. Fabric PH Testing (ENISO-0371): Procedure: At first we need to take 2gm fabric & 100ml distill water. Then need to keep this cutting sample & water in a Biker. Then agitated 2 hours After that half hours relaxation then fabric PH calculation.

72. How you will test Stretch, Growth & Recovery? Procedure of Stretch (ASTM-3107-03): Take a sample 25 X 5 cm (Length = Spandex Direction). Mount this saple in the machine. Apply 4 pound ( Ibs ) load in bottom ends & keep is for 30 minutes.

73. Procedure of Growth (ASTM-3107-03): After 30 minutes remove the sample from the machine. Keep it relaxation for 30 minutes under temperature 21±2ºC & Relative Humidity 65±2%. Procedure of Recovery (ASTM-3107-03):

74. Fastness of Dyed Goods: The capacity of a dye on a textile material to resist (After dyeing) a load or a destructive factor is referred to a fastness. The outstanding property of a dyed textile material is the fastness of shade. The following fastness are important for dyed goods: Color fastness to wash Color fastness to light Color fastness to rubbing (Dry +Wet) Color fastness to perspiration (Acidic & alkaline) Color fastness to acids Color fastness to chlorine Color fastness to alkaline Color fastness to sea water Color fastness to weather Color fastness to bleaching agents Etc.

75. Assessment of Fastness: Numerical Rating Light fastness in Blue scale Wash fastness in Grey scale 1 Poor Poor/Little 2 Slight Moderate 3 Moderate Average 4 Fair Good 5 Good Excellent 6 Very Good   7 Excellent   8 Maximum  

76. Color fastness to wash: Color fastness to wash is very important for lap dip. There are varieties of testing procedure, because – Washing conditions may very from one country to another The methods depend on the use of dyed goods To evaluate repeated washing accelerated test methods are used. Principle: A specimen (Lab dip) in contact with specified adjacent fabric or fabric is laundered, rinsed & dried. The specimen/composite sample is treated under appropriate condition in a chemical bath for short time. The abrasive action is accomplished by the use of a liquor ratio & an appropriate number of steel balls. The change in color of the specimen (Dyed sample) & the staining of the adjacent fabric is assessed by recommended Grey scales (1-5). Apparatus & Materials: Wash wheel with a thermostatically controlled water bath & rating speed of (40±2) rmp Stainless steel container (Capacity 55±50 ml) Stainless steel ball ( Dia =0.6 cm & weight=1 gm) Multi fiber fabric (Acetate/Cotton/Nylon/Polyester/Acrylic/Wool) Thermometer Sewing machine Dryer Color matching cabinet ISO Scales

77. Reagents: Reference detergent Sodium carbonate/Soda ash Distilled Water (Grade – 3) Etc Test Specimen: Cut a sample of dyed goods 10 X 4 cm & sew it with same size multifiber . This is the composite test sample. Test Procedure (ISO recommendation No. 1 – 5): Composite sample is treated in a wash wheel for 30 minutes at (40 ±2) ºC with 5 g/l standard soap. 10 X 4 cm Specimen Adjacent fabric Cotton Acetate Nylon Polyester Acrlic Wool Steel Ball Dia =0.6cm & wt=1gm Multifibre fabric (ISO)

78. Evaluation: Compare the contrast between the treated & untreated sample with grey scale for changing color of dyed sample & staining of adjacent fabric in a color matching cabinet. Reporting Format: Test Description (Color fastness to wash (ISO-105-CO3) Result (Grade) Color change in shade staining in Acetate 4 Color change in shade staining in Cotton 4 Color change in shade staining in Nylon 4 Color change in shade staining in Polyester 5-Apr Color change in shade staining in Acrylic 5-Apr Color change in shade staining in Wool 4

79. Color fastness to light: Principal: This test measures the resistance to fading of dyed textile when exposed to day-light. Then test sample is exposed to light for a certain time (24 hrs, 36 hrs, 48 hrs, 72 hrs…….) or by customer demand & compare the change with original unexposed sample. The changes are assessed by Blue scales (1 – 8). Procedure: The sample is cut & should be exposed (1/2 covered & ½ exposed) together with standard dyed wool samples (1 – 8). The standard & the specimen mounted in a frame. The composite sample must be protected from rain. Evaluation: Evaluation is made numerically by European/American blue scale (1 – 8).

80. Color fastness to Rubbing: Principal: This test is designed to determine the degree of color which may be transferred from the surface of a colored fabric to a specific test cloth for rubbing (Dry + Wet). Equipment: Crock meter Cotton rubbing cotton Grey scale Stop watch Color matching cabinet. Size of fabric: 14 X 5 cm two pieces of sample (One warp direction/Wale direction & other weft/course direction). Test procedure: Lock the test specimen onto the base of the crock meter. Using the spiral spring clip, set 5 X 5 cm of the white cotton fabric to the finger of the crock meter. Lower the covered finger on the test sample. Turn hand crank at the rate of one turn per second (10 X 10 Sec). Remove the white rubbing test cloth & evaluate with grey scale. Evaluation: Compare the contrast between the treated & untreated white rubbing cloth with grey scale & rated 1 – 5.

81. Color fastness to Perspiration: Principal: The garment which comes into contact with the body where perspiration is heavy may suffer serious local discoloration. This test is intended to determine the resistance of color of dyed textile to the action of acidic & alkaline perspiration. Equipment: Perspiration tester Oven, maintain at (37 ±2)ºC temperature Multi fiber test fabric Grey scale Color matching chamber Acidic & alkaline solution Glass & acrylic plate Weight Sample size: 10 X 4 cm

82. Reagent: Test Procedure: Wet out the composite test sample in mentioned alkaline or acidic solution at room temperature. M:L ratio 1:50 & leave for 30 minutes. Pour off excess solution & place the composite sample between two glass plate or acrylic plate under a pressure of 4.5 Kg & place in an oven for 4 hrs at (37 ±2)ºC temperature. Remove the specimen & hang to dry in warm air not exceeding 60ºC temperature. Evaluation: Evaluation is done by grey scale in a color matching cabinet & rated from 1 – 5. Materials Alkaline Acidic L- histadine mono hydrochloric hydrate (C6H4O2N3HCl.H2O 0.5 gm 0.5 gm Sodium chloride ( NaCl ) 5 gm 5 gm Disodium hydrogen ortho phosphate dihydrate (Na2HPO4.2H2O) 2.5 gm 2.2 gm Distilled water 1000 CC 1000 CC PH (Adjust with 0.1 N NaOH ) PH=8 PH=5.5

83. Pilling: Pilling is a process of forming small angles of fibers. ICI (Imperial Chemical Index) Pilling test for knit fabric: Block Diagram: Sample : 5 X 5” Rubber tube : 6” long & 1.25” outer diameter Box size : 9 X 9 X 9” Box inside : 1/8” Cork Revolution : 60 rpm Time : 5 hrs Working Procedure: At first sample (5 x 5”) is taken & sewn it. Then it placed on to rubber tube (6” long & 1.25” outer diameter X 0.125” thick). To cut ends are covered by tape. Four tubes are placed into the box (X 9 X 9”). Cork fabric (0.125”) is placed inside the surface of the box. Then box is rotted with 60 rpm for 5 hurs , which creases the pilling on the surface of the fabric. After 1 hrs tumbling sample is compare with the standard fabric. Then examined it visually.

84. Five Pilling rating are found: Test found Grade Become hairy but no pilling 1 Become hairy & slight pilling 2 Become hairy & moderate pilling 3 Become hairy & unacceptable pilling 4 Become hairy & external pilling 5

85. Strength: It is the resistance to deformation or breakage caused by application of force. It is the most important properties of yarn & fabric. Tensile strength testing: One of the most common testing methods tensile testing is used to determine the behavior of a sample while an axial stretching load is applied. This types of tests may be performed under ambient or controlled eating or cooling conditions to determine the tensile properties of a textile material. Tensile testing is commonly used to determine the maximum load. Tensile testing may be based on a load value or elongation value. Common tensile testing results include: Maximum load Deflection of maximum load Work at maximum load Stiffness Load at break Deflection at break Work at break Stress Strain

86. Manual fabric strength tester: Block diagram: Switch On & Off Vertical stand Dial Fixed clamp Movable claim Fabric Working Procedure: At first fabric is set between the clamps where upper clamp is fixed & lower clamp is movable. Then swatch is on & movable clamp moves downwards. So that fabric is broken due to tension on the fabric. The strength is measured from the dial of the tester. After measuring the strength switch is green to off.

87. Tear Strength tester: The tearing strength tester consists of a sector pendulum pivoted on anti-friction ball bearings on a vertical bracket fixed on a rigid metallic base. The test specimen in shape of a rectangular piece is held between two clamps, one of which is mounted on the pendulum & other is mounted on the fixed bracket. The clamps are mounted in such a manner that their holding faces are aligned with each other when the pendulum is locked in its raised position. The tearing strength is indicated on a scale fitted on the pendulum against a low friction pointer pivoted on the axis of the pendulum.

88. Fabric Dimension: Length/Width measurement Weight /unit length measurement Fabric thickness measurement Fabric inspection measurement

89. Fabric inspection: This system is mostly used in textile industry around the globe now. This test method describes a procedure to establish a numerical designation for grading of fabrics from a visual inspection. This system provides a means of defining defects according to their severity by assigning demerit point values. All type of fabrics whether grey or finished, can be graded by this system. Fabric inspection method : 4 – point system 10 – point system

90. 4 – Point system (Used for Knit fabric): For Example: For 100 yds inspection **Total No. of point must be less than 40 per 100 Sq yds . Defect Length Points Up to 3" 1 3" to 6" 2 6 to 9" 3 Above 9" 4 Defect Length Points No. od Faults No. of Points Up to 3" 1 10 10 X 1=10 3" to 6" 2 5 5 X 2=10 6 to 9" 3 2 2 X 3=6 Above 9" 4 0 X 4=0   Total=26

91. 10 – Point system (Used for Woven fabric): For export quality material: Good: Total point <20 point per 100 Sq meter Average: Total point 20 to 30 point per 100 Sq meters Poor: Total point >30 point per 100 Sq meter Warp Way Points Weft Way <1" 1 <1" 1" to <5" 3 1" to <5" 5" to <10" 5 5" to <half width >10" 10 >half width

92. Weight/Unit area measurement: Instrument: Quadrant Balance Block Diagram: Quadrant scale Stand Pointer Template Sample holder Base Working Procedure: At first sample (2” long X 1” width) is measured by using template & it is placed on the sample holder. The weight is then measured directly from the quadrant scale on which pointed fixed according to the sample. Result should be taken Ibs /100 Sq yds .

93. GSM measurement for knit & woven fabric: Instrument: GSM cutter or Rounded cutter Block Diagram: Table Rubber pad Fabric Head Turning wheel Cutting Blade Working Procedure: At first a rubber pad is placed on the table Then the fabric placed over the rubber pad Then the round cutter is placed on the fabric & cut the fabric The cut sample should be circular The sample area should be 100 cm² (Standard) Then the weight (in gms ) of 100 cm² of samples is measured by electrical balance At last GSM is measured (wt in gms /100 cm²X100=GSM)

94. Yarn/Weaving Fault Processing Fault Colored Yarn Side to side shade variation Knots End to end shade variation Slubs Resist Spots Thick/Thin Places Uneven Streaks Broken Ends Dye Stains Broken Pattern Uneven Dyeing/Running shading Double End Patchy Dyeing Effect Hole, Cut or Tear   Missing Ends   Missing Picks   Hanging Loose Threads   Oil or Stain Mark   Oily Ends/Picks   Contamination   Color spot   Hairiness   Horizontal line   Side loose   Soil sport   List of Fabric Defects in Woven Fabric: A fabric defect is any abnormality in the fabric that hinders it’s acceptability by the consumer. Woven fabric defects can be raised from yarn defects, weaving defects & finally processing defects. Most common defects of woven fabrics are as below –

95. Colored Yarn: Presence of colored foreign matter in the fabric, which comes from yarn. Causes: Cotton fibers getting contaminated during Ginning process with leaves, immature fiber and yellow fiber. Remedies: Colored portion is removed from the yarn with a pucker. Knots: Knot is a fastening made by tying together ends of yarn when broken. Causes: Thread breaks during process of winding, warping, Sizing or weaving. Remedies: Non mend able. Fabric portion carrying knots should be avoided during cutting or rejected with cut panels.

96. Slub : Slub is a bunch of yarn having less twist or no twist and has a wider diameter compare to normal spun yarn Causes: Improper Carding/Combing & wrong drafting in spinning Process. Remedies: Slub should be cut with the clipper from both ends. Broken Ends woven in a bunch: This defect is caused by a bunch of broken ends woven into fabric. Causes: Failure of weaver in attending the warp breaks properly. Remedies: Broken ends woven in a bunch can be removed by using a pucker and the resulting loose ends should be cut with clipper. As a result, a bare patch occurs and combing in both directions with a metallic comb can fill this up.

97. Double End: When two or more ends get woven as one. This defect is characterized by a thick bar running parallel to the warp. Causes: Wrong drawing, taking more ends through a held eye. Remedies: Can be corrected by pulling out the extra end with help of needle. A bare patch is formed & can be filled by combing in both direction with help of metallic comb. Float: Float is the improper interlacement of warp & weft threads over a Certain area. Causes: Improper sizing that causes ends stick together. It can be from broken end also if entangled with other ends. Remedies: Only minor floats can be rectified. The floating threads are cut with a clipper. Combing in both direction rectifies the patch.

98. Gout This is a foreign matter accidentally woven into the fabric. Causes: Improper loom cleaning. Dusty/Dirty weaving environment. Remedies: Extra foreign matter can be pulled out with a pucker. Combing in both direction rectifies the resultant patch. Hole, Cut, Tear: This is self explanatory which defines any small/large hole or cut area or tear position in the fabric. Causes: Sharp edges on cloth roll, hard substances between layer of fabric in cloth roll. Coarse template used for fine fabrics. This can be raised during removal of hard particles woven in the cloth. Remedies: Not possible to do mending. Need to reject from fabrics or from cut panels.

99. Missing Ends: The fabric is characterized by a gap, parallel to the warp. The number of ends missing may be one or more. Causes: Loom not equipped with warp stop motion. Drop wires not working properly which cause stop machine when warp breaks. Electric bars are dirty or defected that’s why machine not stopped When drop wire dropped over it. Remedies: When there are only two adjacent ends missing, the fault can be rectified by combing in both directions using a metallic comb. More than 2 ends will be difficult to cover. Fabric portion needs to be avoided or rejected based on it’s availability along width of fabric Missing Picks: A narrow streak running parallel with weft threads caused due to absence of weft yarn. Causes: Faulty let off & take up motion in loom. May be due to faulty Weft stop motion. If fell of cloth not adjusted after loom stoppage. Remedies: When only 2 pick missing then can be rectified by combing with metallic comb. More than that not possible & need to be rejected.

100. Hanged/Untrimmed Loose Threads: Any hanging threads on the face of the fabrics. Causes: Tail ends are not trimmed after piecing up. Remedies: This defect can be easily rectifies by cutting all hanged yarn by the clipper during grey mending. Weft Bar: An unwanted bar, running across the full width of a piece which differs in appearance from the adjacent normal fabric. Causes: Different in count, twist, color, luster. Faulty let off and take up motion of loom Remedies: Not possible to do mending.

101. Oil Ends Oil Weft Oil Spots Reed Mark

102. VF-BDC JW Fabric Department’s Working Process & Other Necessary Details

103. Nominated Fabric Suppliers in Bangladesh: There are few nominated fabric suppliers available in Bangladesh by VF Asia. Names are given below - Shell Fabric: Envoy Textiles Ltd Partex Denim Ltd Nassa Taiepei Denim Ltd Mahmud Denim Ltd Sim Textiles Opex Textiles South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd. Sinha Textile Group. Hamid Fabrics Ltd. Paramount Textiles Ltd. Thermax Yarn Dyed Fabric Mills Ltd. Pocketing Fabric Litun Fabrics Ltd Ridwan Textiles Ltd Epic Textiles

104. Nominated Fabric Suppliers in Pakistan: There are few nominated fabric suppliers available in Pakistan by VF Asia. Names are given below - Shell Fabric: Kassim Textiles Ltd ADM Fabrics Artistic Milliners Denim Ltd Soorty Denim Ltd Naveena Textiles Ltd Siddiqsions Textiles Ltd Kohinoor Textiles Mill Ltd Master Textile Ltd Sarena Fabrics Ltd.

105. Nominated Fabric Suppliers in India: There are few nominated fabric suppliers available in India by VF Asia. Names are given below - Shell Fabric: Arvind Textiles Ltd Mafatlal Fabrics Ltd Suryalakshmi Denim Ltd KG-Denim Ltd Raymond Denim Ltd BhaskarTextiles Ltd Nahar Textiles Ltd Vardhaman Textiles Mill Ltd Besides some other nominated fabric suppliers available in Thailand, Serilonka , Indonasia .

106. Fabric Related Work for BDC : Mill Week: In mill week mill submits their new collections based on current market trend. Yearly there are two mills weeks, one is on in each June for Fall/Holiday season & another is in each Jan for Spring/Summer season. Wash Range: The selected fabrics in mill weeks input in Fabric Code Generate System (FCGS) as well as SBU wise Fabric chart with lab test result. For any modification of color or new color development on a particular fabric item also done in this stage. Mills submit the selected fabrics sample yardages to BDC to do wash range & submit to US & HK. BDC is responsible for all non china mills. Proto Sampling: From the submitted wash range US team short listed the fabrics for coming up season & request for proto which are consider highly potential for coming up seasons bulk fabric orders.

107. Fabric Booking: Fabric booking is released by BDC Merchandiser team to Fabric team for proto, Pre-line, F&F and bulk standard sample purpose & fabric team book this sample to Mill. In this sample stage if we get any fabric issue, we updated all parties. From fabric booking date we need to in-house within 15 working days for oversees Mill & 7 working day for Bangladeshi Mill. Fabric Checking: After getting each sample yardage for proto we need to check with master roll, then need to approved swatch. Lab Test: Merchandising team give proto wash leg to Fabric team for test purpose and fabric team send this wash leg to BKK Lab along with pretest number. If this test result is failed in any parameter then liability of fabric team.

108. Update Fabric Price: We need to update fabric price & cut-table with each month because validity of fabric price is only one month. Substitute Wash Range : We are doing lot of substitute fabric from different mill & need to do wash range with original fabric and send to US for approval. In the meantime need to update all details in our system & fabric chart as well as test result.

109. QUESTION & ANSWER SESSION