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dyes and painitng

1. Subject: ITKS Submitted to- DR. DEBASIS SAHOO By- SAURABH ANAND CUHP21RDTT10 DYES & PAINTS OF ANCIENT BHARATA & THEIR MULTIFACETED USES IN THE SOCIETY. SOTTHM, CUHP

2. MEANING DYE derived from old English word Daeg or Daeh meaning colour Colouring matters in Indian terminologies is expressed as ranga, raga and rakta originating from the root verb RANJ. Indian dye in world as early as 500 bc, indigo, presumed indigenous dye-drug of India being used in Egypt for Muslin dyeing.

3. DYEING Archeological evidence shows that dyeing was a wide-spread industrial enterprise in India. India’s expertise in natural dyes dates back to ancient times , color plays a vital role in beautification of textiles. In Vedic period both the male and the female were engaged in dyeing but the latter excelled the former.

4. Different texts refer to several dye-stuff and cloths of different colors, but they do not shed detailed light on the technique of dyeing. Mahavagga mentions the techniques of dyeing employed by Bhikkhus and informs that they dyed their clothes with cow dung or with yellow clay. The Sangam texts are also replete with references to South Indian dyes. Indigo was commonly used vegetables dye and cloth dyed with Indigo is referred to as NILIKANCHCHAI

5. Sources of dyes Plant Animal Mineral

6. PRINCIPAL DYE SUBSTANCE: Plant juice, stains of fruit juice, crushed flowers, roots, barks etc. Insects like lac, cochineal, kermes for red etc. Minerals like tuttha (Copper sulphate) and Anjana( sulphate of antimony)

7. BLACK DYE STUFF-PLANT SOURCES ABHAYA (Terminalia Chebula) Amalaka (Emblic Myrobalan) Bhringaraja (Eclipta Prostrata)- It is traditionally used as hair growth and for imparting natural color to grey hair. Pippala (piper Longum)-   According to A yurveda science  Pippali  was originated during the time of Samudra Manthan. Fruit was used for color extraction after grinding .

8. ABHAYA or HARITAKI (Chebulic M yrobalan) Used in textile industry exclusive of medieval period. Its use in hair-dyeing preparation goes back to classical period. Vegetable, metal and mineral used in recipes of hair-dyeing .

9. AMALAKA (Emblic Myrobalan) Also called as Indian gooseberry Amalaka were roasted in a deep pan until they turn black into color. Water was added to boil and the fruits were kept overnight, which later on used as either as hair dye or a paint.

10. BLACK DYE – MINERALS & METALS SOURCES AYA(iron), T uttha (Copper sulphate) A njana( sulphate of antimony) ANIMAL SOURCES-Cow Dung Sakala a black dye prepared from cow-dung. Mahavagga mentions the techniques of dyeing employed by Bhikkhus and informs that they dyed their clothes with cow dung or with yellow clay.

11. Commonly known as kajjala (lamp black) popular in post- V edic, as a pigment goes back to Harappan period. KHANJANA (ANJANA)

12. A popular black dye substance for textile dyeing. Lamp black as a coloring matter admixed with nimba ( Neem ) (Azadirachta indica) water, gum and pure water, levigated and then dried is a work of medieval period .

13. BLUE DYE-PRODUCING SUBSTANCES. NILA,NILI,NILIKA (INDIGO, INDIGOFERA TINCTORIA) Called as " The King of Natural dyes " One of he most prized dye-crops, as kala or A sikni . its use from Atharva V eda for imparting natural colour to the skin afflicted by some skin diseases.

14. Coloring matter is deposited in leaves (rangpatra)and flowers (rangpuspi),the plant required purification before using as dye-producing substance.

15. MANJISTHA( R ubia C ardifolia, I ndian M adder) Most ancient dye-drug plant of India. Found in Punjab-Himalayan region, nativ e of either S yria , P alestine, Egypt or S iberia. Stem was used for color extraction RED DYE-PRODUCING SUBSTANCES Plant based R ed dye with two tinctorial properties- red and yellow, the foremost colors associated with the gods.

16. Chemically known as Alzirin now made synthetically. Used in coloration of textiles fabrics , dyeing of leather , and also as hair dye.

17. KAMPILLAKA (mallotus phillippinesis, kamela powder, kamala powder) N ative plant of Kampilla country Sushruta – Pahalaraja fruit. Small evergreen tree found throughout tropical India,China, Malaya island etc. A powdery substance chemically called as Mallotoxin

18. P ARPATA OR J ATUKA ( SPECIES OF OLDENLANDIA) Famous as a DYE DRUG of medieval period. P lant was found in clusters, knotty and dark in appearances.

19. P amsu species was grown on sandy soil. K setra species was grown on cultivable land. It was an excellent abode of the lac insect. Dye produced was solely used for textile coloration.

20. L aksa(lac) K rimi(kermes) I ndragopaka (cochineal) these 3 AKA Polish grains. These all are the sources of red dye. INSECT BASED STUFF

21. RED DYE LAKSA OR RAKSA INSECT Meaning “bright dye” obtained from twigs of trees by female lac insects . Lac comes from the P ersian word LAK and Hindu word lakh both means hundred thousand , indicating no of minutes insects require to produce lac.

22. Chemically coloring principle of lac is called as LACCAIC . Insect was native to I ndia and of south east A sia. Dye was basically extracted from the gum like substances present on the branches.(dark and red) Color obtained by squeezing the laksa and by bruising, was boiled and cooled before applying to desired article Used as cosmetics for reddening certain parts of the body

23. KRIMI(KERMES,) POPULAR AS KERMES-GRAIN, DYES-IN-GRAIN, SCARLET GRAIN Kirmi terms include both insect and worm , dye juice produced was called as Krimiraga . It was also an important dye of ancient M esopotamia , dye matter was extracted from the body after removing the shell. AKA Rudhira krmi meaning worm whose blood was used as dye.

24. In I ndia used mainly for dyeing of silken and woolen material. Chemically known as Acida C arminique or Rogue de C ochenille.

25. INDRAGOPA kind of red or crimson beetle, coccus cacti, belongs to coccidia family. N ame means rain-protected insect. D ye was extracted from the female body during period of hatching, Real cochineal was a cactus feeding insect of M exico. I t is an excellent fast color.

26. CACTUS FEEDING COCHINEAL

27. GAIRIKA (RED OCHRE)-RED MINERAL DYES Popular from post- V edic period exclusively used in textile dyeing. It is used for producing deep red tint . Also as an ingredient in the recipes for yellow-dyeing .

28. SINDURA (red lead) Used from medieval period, it was treated with Manahsila (realgar). Sindura was rubbed up for one half day in water. Realgar was then grounded with S indoor without water, preserved for 5 days. For durability it was combined with oleaginous substances.

29. RED-YELLOW DYE PRODUCING SUBSTANCES Substance popular as red dye but containing yellow coloring matter were : Kusumbha (carthamus tinctorious) kurikuma(crocus sativus) patanga or pattanga (caesalpinia sappan)

30. KUSUMBHA Flower dominating dye crop, excellence in coloring ( M aharanjana). Cultivated under royal care coz of valuable flowers, and was known as a plant of Gujarat. It is s imply diluted in water before using it. It is used exclusively for textile matter.

31. KUNKUMA ( S AFFRON, CROCUS SATIVUS) Flower dominating plant, AC: M ahabharata - a particular set of people jaguda cultivated it. Cultivated for its valuable flower AC : A rthasashtra. Kashmira (famous for red filaments)and V ahlika (balkh famous for yellow tinctorial) places of cultivation.

32. Ain-E-Akbari gave detailed description of this plant. 6 petals, 6 stamens . In india it is grouped as red colour producing plant where as in other countries known as yellow-dye producing plant. Colour was obtained by pulping the flower and later squeezing it .

33. PATANGA, P ATRANGA ( RED SANDERS, CAESALPINIA S APPAN ) A n excellent red-dye crop . An inferior sandalwood containing no odiferous matter.

34. Indigenous tree of M alabar, Southern India from Goa to Trivandrum. Red matter is in pods and bark of the tree. P ulverized wood dissolved in water along with alum powder and given sun exposure for 2 days. Exclusively used for textile - silken stuff ( P attaranjaka)

35. YELLOW DYE-PRODUCING SUBSTANCES From plant products . Haridra(curcuma longa) is the principal substance Palasa(Butea frondosa) and the first exudation of Kusumbha Animal origin Rocana, i.e. goracana (yellow substance prepared from urine of cow)

36. HARIDRA (TURMERIC, CURCUMA LONGA) Haridra, the I ndian saffron( C oroco I ndiaco) as observed by Garcia de Orta in 1560 A.D Auspicious and highly beneficial plant characterized by rhizome containing the colour character Dye- substance in curcuma longa named as curcumin. I nstability of the color to the fabric hence called as FLEETING NATURE . Wholly used for dyeing of textile fabrics .

37. RECIEPES FOR YELLOW DYE AS PER I-TSING. First preparation was combination of yellow powder and red earth or red powder. Mixture of dates, red earth, red powder, wild pear. Composed of mulberry bark, blue and green coloring matters.