8. Purl Fabric.pdf,Purl was originally spelt ‘pearl’ and was so named because of its similar appearance to pearl droplets.

fabric engineering,Purl was originally spelt ‘pearl’ and was so named because of its similar
appearance to pearl droplets.

1. Purl Fabric
Dutimoyi Jahangir
Assistant Professor
Department of Textile Engineering

2. Purl Fabric
Purlwasoriginallyspelt‘pearl’andwassonamedbecauseofitssimilar
appearancetopearldroplets.

3. Purl Structure
Thestructureswhichhascertainwalescontainingbothfaceandreverse
meshedloopsareknownaspurlstructures.
Itcanbeachievedwithdouble-endedlatchneedlesorbyriblooptransfer
fromonebedtotheother,combinedwithneedlebedracking.

4. Types of Latch Needle
There are two types of latch needle:
1) Single ended latch needle
Friction needle.
Friction less needle.
2) Double ended latch needle.

5. Properties of Purl
1.Machinehastwobeds.Machinesmaybeflatorcircular.
2.Thereisonlyonesetofneedleswhichchangethebedinalternative
knittingcycle.
3.Needlesareofspecialtype;generallydoublehookedlatchneedlesare
used.
4.Needlesareshiftedfromonebedtoanotherbedwiththehelpofsliders.
Twoslidersareneededforeachneedle.
5.Sameneedlemakesfaceloopinonebedandbackloopinotherbed.
6.Alternativecoursesaremadeofallfaceloopsandallbackloops.Asa
result,eachwaleismadeoffaceloopandbackloopinalternativeorder.

6. Properties of Purl
7.Fabrichashorizontalcorrugationorribappearanceonthesurfaces,i.e.
oppositetoribfabric.
8.Fabricisreversibleinappearanceandhassofthandle.
9.Fabrichasveryhighextensibilityinlengthdirection,makingitsuitable
forkidswear.
10.Fabricdoesnotcurlattheedgesbecauseofalternatefaceandbackloop
courses.
11.Theknittingsequenceorneedlegatingcanbechangedtoproducerib
andplainstructuresononehand,andderivativeslikemosspurl,basket
purl,etc.,ontheother.

7. Purl Fabric

8. Derivatives of Purl
1. 2×2 purl
2. 4×2 purl
3.Seed stitch
4.Moss purl
5.Basket purl

9. Uses of Purl Fabric
1.Infant and children’s wear
2.Sweaters
3.Scarves
4.In combination with plain fabric, it is used to produce stripes, basket
effects and various geometrical designs.

10. Comparison of Basic Weft Knitted Structures
Property Plain 1×1 Rib 1×1 Purl 1×1 Interlock
AppearanceDifferent in face
and back, V-shapes
in face and arcs on
back.
Same on both
sides, like face of
plain.
Same on both
sides, like face of
plain.
Same on both sides,
like face of plain.
Extensibility-
Lengthwise
Widthwise
Moderate (10-20%)
High (30-50%)
Moderate
Very High (>50%)
Very High
High
Moderate
Moderate
Thickness and
Warmth
Thicker and warmer Much thicker and
warmer than plain
Much thicker and
warmer than plain
Very Much thicker
and warmer than
plain
Unroving Either ends Only from end
knitted last
Either ends Only from end
knitted last

11. Comparison of Basic Weft Knitted Structures
Property Plain 1×1 Rib 1×1 Purl 1×1 Interlock
Curling Tendency to curlNo tendency to
curl
No tendency to
curl
No tendency to curl
End-Uses Inner garments,
stockings, T-Shirts
and dresses
Outer wear, socks,
knitwear, under-
wear, collar, cuffs
and waist bands in
different garments
Children’s
clothing,
knitwear, heavy
outerwear
Underwear, trouser
suits, shirts, dresses,
sportswear.