rashness of the Turks, for they had no hesitation in continuing their
voyage during the night, though there was no moon and it was quite
dark, amid a gale of wind. We often, to our very great danger,
encountered mills and trunks and branches of trees projecting from
the banks, so that it frequently happened that the boat was caught
by the gale and came crashing on to the stumps and branches which
lined the river side. On such occasions it seemed to me that we were
on the point of going to pieces. Once, indeed, there was a great
crash, and part of the deck was carried away. I jumped out of bed,
and begged the crew to be more careful. Their only answer was
‘Alaure,’ that is, ‘God will help us;’ and so I was left to get back to
my bed and my nap—if I could! I will venture to make one prophecy,
and that is, that this mode of sailing will one day bring about a
disaster.
On our voyage I saw Tolna, a Hungarian borough of some
importance, which deserves special mention for its excellent white
wine and the civility of the people. I saw also Fort Valpovar, which
stands on high ground, as well as other castles and towns; nor did I
fail to notice the points at which the Drave on the one side, and the
Theiss on the other, flow into the Danube. Belgrade itself lies at the
confluence of the Save and Danube, and at the apex of the angle
where these streams join, the old city is still standing; it is built in an
antiquated style, and fortified with numerous towers and a double
wall. On two sides it is washed by the rivers I mentioned, while on
the third side, which unites it to the land, it has a citadel of
considerable strength, placed on an eminence, consisting of several
lofty towers built of squared stone.
In front of the city are very large suburbs, built without any
regard to order. These are inhabited by people of different nations—
Turks, Greeks, Jews, Hungarians, Dalmatians, and many more.
Indeed, throughout the Turkish Empire the suburbs, as a rule,
are larger than the towns, and suburbs and town together give the
idea of a very considerable place. This was the first point at which I
met with ancient coins, of which, as you know, I am very fond, and I