cosmetics science unit 1 b pharmacy syllabus

Includes all notes of unit 1

1. Introduction of Cosmetics What are Cosmetics? The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use, as "articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body...for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance” Cosmetics are the substances used to enhance or protect the appearance or odour of human body. Cosmetics serving as bridge between personal care products & pharmaceuticals The word  cosmetics  derives from the  Greek word ( " kosmētikos " ), " which means to adorn ( more attractive). Cosmetics  are constituted from a mixture of Chemical Compounds derived from either  natural sources or synthetically created ones.

2. History of Cosmetics The first archaeological evidence of cosmetics is found in Ancient Egypt in the year 4000 B.C. Ancient Greeks, Romans and Egyptians used cosmetics out of mercury ,white lead, frankincense, and myrrh 4000 BC Women applied a bright green paste of copper minerals to their faces to provide color They used perfumed oils &painted eyebrows on themselves with cream made from sheep’s fat, lead &soot. G um arabic , gelatin, beeswax, and egg was used by the Chinese around 3000 B.C.E. to stain their fingernails. In Japan, geishas used crushed safflower petals to paint eyebrows and edges of the eyes. For the lips, sticks of bintsuke wax was used. During the 8th and 7th centuries BC, East Greek traders dominated markets in perfume flasks and cosmetic containers. By the 7th century BC, Athens had developed into a mercantile center in which hundreds of perfumers set up shop. Trade was heavy in fragrant herbs such as marjoram, lily, thyme, sage, anise, rose and iris, infused into olive, almond, castor and linseed oils.

3. 14th century : Women wore egg whites over their faces and Slept with slices of raw beef on their faces to get rid of wrinkles   15th – 16th century, Italy and France became the chief centers of cosmetic manufacturing and France begin to create new fragrances and cosmetics by blending ingredients. Zinc oxide widely used as facial powder- replaced mixtures of lead and copper 1950s -begin the modern era cosmetics business 1980 -enormous industry has been started - with $ 20 million in sales annually. During the 20th century, make- up became fashionable in America and Europe through the influence of movie industry in Hollywood. The flapper style influenced cosmetics of the1920s with dark eyes, red lips, red nails, and a suntan , invented by Coco Chanel.

4. In India: Henna was used in India around 4th and 5th centuries and was used as either hair dye or paint on people’s hands and feet for Hindu’s wedding Women in India use a turmeric germicidal cream and the treatment composed of gram flour or wheat husk mixed with milk. the wheat husk would remove dead cell tissue. The use of kohl or kajal has a long history in the Hindu culture The use of traditional preparations of kohl on children and adults was considered to have health benefits On festive occasions, special bathing cosmetics are widely used in India, even today.

5. All cosmetic preparation has their application for long or short periods to beautify the body as well as to keep the body healthy up to some extent and has psychological impact to other. The cosmetic product prevents its outmost layer from drying out, penetrate below the external layer and introduce active substances in to deep lying strata or adhere only superficially to change color or luster of areas. The cosmetic which are used for decorative purposes like… ( i )Emollients : Cold creams, Vanishing creams, Foundation creams, Lotions and Solutions etc. (ii) Cleansing Preparation : Creams, Shampoo and Rinses etc. (iii) Decorative Preparations : Lipsticks, Rouges, Eyeliner, lacquers and Dressing preparations. (iv) Deodorant / Antiperspirant : Spray, Sticks and Mouthwashes. (v) Protectives: Creams and Powders. (vi) Preparation for Enjoyment : Salts, Powders, Oils and Milks

6. cosmeceuticals The term “cosmeceutical” was introduced by dermatologist Dr Albert Kligman in 1984 and is derived from a combination of the words cosmetic and pharmaceutical. Cosmeceuticals are products that have both cosmetic and therapeutic (medical or drug- like) effects, and are intended to have a beneficial effect on skin health and beauty. Like cosmetics, they are applied topically as creams or lotions but contain active ingredients that have an effect on skin cell function. In some cases, their action is limited to the skin surface (such as exfoliants), while others can penetrate to deeper levels, either enhancing or limiting normal skin functions. Cosmeceuticals are available “over-the-counter” (without prescription) and are generally used as part of a regular skin care regime to help improve skin tone and texture, pigmentation and fine lines.

7. The most important botanicals pertaining to dermatologic use such as cosmeceuticals include teas, soy, pomegranate, date, grape seed, curcumin, aloe etc., Chemoprevention by oral, topical use of dietary or pharmacologic agents to inhibit or reverse the cancer is possibility. Examples include vitamin- E, beta- Carotene, green tea, grape seed extract. DRUG : The FD&C Act defines drugs, in part, by their intended use, as "articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease" and "articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or other animals" Drugs: To prevent diseases by altering the structure and function of the body. Cosmetics: To beautify and improve the skin. Cosmeceuticals : An intermediate classification for cosmetic products that may enhance the function of the skin.

8. HOW CAN A PRODUCT BE BOTH A COSMETIC AND A DRUG? Some products meet the definitions of both cosmetics and drugs. This may happen when a product has two intended uses. For example, a shampoo is a cosmetic because its intended use is to cleanse the hair. An antidandruff treatment is a drug because its intended use is to treat dandruff. Consequently, an antidandruff shampoo is both a cosmetic and a drug. Among other cosmetic/drug combinations are toothpastes that contain fluoride, deodorants that are also antiperspirants, and moisturizers and makeup marketed with sun- protection claims. Such products must comply with the requirements for both cosmetics and drugs. some important differences between the laws and regulations for cosmetics and drugs are in the areas of approval, good manufacturing practice, registration, and labeling.

9. DIFFERENCE BETWEEN “COSMETICS” & “COSMECEUTICALS” Cosmeceuticals typically contain levels of active ingredients including phytochemicals, vitamins etc… Like cosmetics, cosmeceuticals are topically applied, but contain ingredients that influence the biological function of the skin. Cosmeceutical products are intended to improve appearance from a functional standpoint whereas Cosmetics are used JUST to colour and adorn the body in a stylish fashion, leaving the real problem unaddressed Cosmetics refers to the substances that cleanse or enhance the appearance of the skin without therapeutic benefits, whereas Cosmeceuticals refers to the hybrid between pharmaceuticals and cosmetic products that are intended to enhance both the health and beauty of the skin by external application and following a particular mechanism of action.

10. Classification of Cosmetics: (a) According to region, where it is use ( i )Skin : Powder, Lipstick, Rouge, Creams, Lotions and Solutions etc. (ii) Hairs : Shampoo, Conditioners, Creams, Bleach, Coloring preparation etc. (iii) Nails : Nail lacquers, Lacquers removers etc. (iv) Teeth : Powder, Paste, Gel and Dentifrices etc. (v) Eye : Eyeliner, Mascara, Eye shadow and Eyebrow pencil etc. ( Vi)Cosmetics used as miscellaneous purpose: Alcoholic fragrance solutions, Cosmetics for babies, Toilet soaps , Essences & perfumes.

11. (b) According to function of cosmetic preparation : ( i )Emollients : Cold creams, Vanishing creams, Foundation creams, Lotions and Solutions etc. (ii) Cleansing Preparation : Creams, Shampoo and Rinses etc. (iii) Decorative Preparations : Lipsticks, Rouges, Eyeliner, lacquers and Dressing preparations. (iv) Deodorant / Antiperspirant : Spray, Sticks and Mouthwashes. (v) Protectives: Creams and Powders. (vi) Preparation for Enjoyment : Salts, Powders, Oils and Milks

12. ( c) According to their physical nature: Powder Lotions Emulsions Solutions Suspensions Creams Paste Gels Aerosol Sticks Pencils

13. Growth factors  Epidermal growth factor (EGF) stimulates epidermal growth and is used in the treatment of burns and excision wounds, where it accelerates re-epithelization. Transforming growth factor (TGF) stimulates normal skin growth and cellular growth and repair. TGF exerts positive regulatory effects on the accumulation of the body’s extracellular matrix proteins.  Tgf is also a mediator of fibrosis (repair tissue formation) and angiogenesis  (development of new blood cells) and it promotes the healing of wounds. 

14. Peptides Peptides , also called polypeptides, naturally occur in the skin, but they’re also included in many skin care products — and for good reason. Peptides are amino acids that make up certain proteins needed by the skin. More specifically, collagen is made of three polypeptide chains, so adding peptides can stimulate your skin to  make collagen . More collagen can lead to firmer, younger-looking skin. Benefits of peptides The collagen molecule is actually too large to absorb through skin, which is why so many people choose to eat  collagen-rich bone broth  or take  collagen supplements . But peptides can absorb into the skin where they can be used by the body. Incorporating peptides into your skin care routine has many benefits for the skin. Improved skin barrier The  skin barriertrusted source   is the body’s line of defense against bacteria, ultraviolet rays, pollution, and other toxins. The skin barrier can be damaged from  over-exfoliation , exposure to cigarette smoke and other pollution, or even poor sleep. Peptides help build up a stronger barrier.

15. Reduced wrinkles Collagen can  plump skin and lips . When skin is firmer and plumper, wrinkles and fine lines will be less visible. More elastic skin In addition to collagen, peptides also make up  elastin   fibers , also a type of protein. These fibers make skin look firmer and tauter. Eases inflammation Peptides can help  ease inflammation , repair damaged skin, and even out skin tone. Can help clear breakouts Some peptides  are antimicrobial trusted source , meaning they can kill bacteria that cause  acne . Examples of peptides include  the hormone oxytocin, glutathione (stimulates tissue growth), melittin (honey bee venom), the pancreatic hormone insulin, and glucagon (a hyperglycemic factor) .

16. Moisturizers Moisturizers are the most useful product for the management of various skin conditions  ( e.G. , Atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, pruritus, and aging skin). These products include emollients,  occlusives, and humectants. The majority of moisturizers enhance skin barrier function.   Moisturizers claim to make the skin smoother, softer, more radiant, less wrinkled, and firmer.  They improve the tactile properties of dry and aging skin, restore the normal barrier function of the skin, and reduce the release of inflammatory cytokines. Moisturizers based on materials such as petrolatum, silicon, mineral oil, and glycerin enhance skin barrier functions.  Moisturizers restore water content to the epidermis and provide a soothing protective film. 

17. Sunscreens Sunscreens are divided into two major Groups, specifically, the chemical absorbers and the physical blockers . The high Intensity of UV radiation could be absorbed by chemical absorbers, while physical Blockers contain ingredients which reflect or scatter them . Chemical absorber Contains chemical compounds such as avobenzone, para-aminobenzoic acid, Benzophenones, cinnamates, salicylates, dibenzoylmethanes , anthranilates, octyl triazone 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid. Physical blocker contains titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in bulk form or in their nanoparticles forms . Sunscreen products are used on to the topical surface of the skin and their ingredients are capable of absorbing, reflecting and/or diffracting sunlight radiation, and thus decreasing the overall doses of radiations absorbed in the skin