Different types of fabrics.pdf

Assignment

1. Assignment
Different types of fabrics with properties and practical example


Submitted By Submitted To
Chiranjit Dhar Engr. Md. Asif Hasan
Dept: Fabric Engineering Instructor, Pabna
ID: P-201712012 Textile Engineering
Level 4, Term 1 College.

2. INTRODUCTION:
A confident understanding of fabric behaviour and characteristics are
vital in the design and development of a functional garment. For
instance, a warp knit mesh fabric made of 100% polyester designed to
wick moisture away from the skin, with the quick dry ability, making it
ideal for everyday wear and preferred in extreme performance
requirements. On the other hand, Georgette is a balanced plain-
woven fabric generally made of 100% polyester with high twist yarns
giving the fabric less smooth appearance used in fashion apparel.
Textile materials have evolved in recent times and fabrics play a
significant role in the development of sportswear industry. In fact, it
reflects the quality of a brand and its identity. The primary focus of
this chapter is to present the essential and the desirable properties
suitable for performance apparel especially for sportswear. Various
sportswear applications are discussed to enable the reader to
understand the rationale for such parameter. Generally, garments
intended for fashion apparel will have to fulfil the following
characteristics: durability, strength, colourfastness, aesthetics and so
forth. These properties are mandatory for everyday use and
maintenance for fashion apparel. However, in the case of
performance apparel the requirements are functional and application-
specific properties, such as moisture transmission, thermal resistance,
wicking, water proof, and flame resistant. The reason for
requirements of such properties is because functional apparel are
subjected to a wide range of end uses such that a garment will be
affected by internal (fibres, yarn fineness, warp/weft movement,
fabric density, thickness, fabric count) and external factors (external
environment – exposure to sunlight, wind, rain, cold weather
conditions and during use). These factors affect the performance and
behaviour of functional apparel which are discussed in the sections
with examples. In addition, the interaction between the human body
and garment is significant; this is true for those close-fit garments such

3. as, base layer garments, where thermo-regulation plays a vital role in
the performance of an athlete. Fabrics for sportswear are either
woven or knitted and is often blended with synthetic and natural
fibres with varying linear density to provide an optimum performance.
The heavy weight fabrics for outerwear are multi-layered (coated or
laminated) and their properties differ from light weight fabrics.
Parameters of these fabrics due to structural difference are
highlighted here with specific focus on functional apparel. Fabric
behaviour will be affected by its composition and this is presented
with examples. This chapter will empower the reader to understand
the properties of fabrics for various performance application, and how
these parameters will affect the overall performance of the garment.

❖ What is Fabric:
The term fabric can be defined as a planner structure produced by
interlaced/interlooped yarns or fibres and felts made by interlocking
fibres. It is a manufactured assembly of fibres and /or yarns that has
substantial surface area in relation to its thickness and sufficient
mechanical strength to give the assembly inherent cohesion.
❖ Types of Fabric:
In today’s modern textile sector, various types of fabric produced for
woven, knit and non-woven fabric. This article has presented the total
classification of fabric for woven, knit, non-woven and braided..
❖ Classification of Fabric:
There are mainly three types of fabric, which are in the below:
1. Woven fabric.
2. Knit or knitted fabric,
3. Non-woven fabric.

4. ❖ Others type of fabric:
Braided fabric.
❖ All the above fabrics have explained in the following:
Woven fabric:
Woven fabric is any textile formed by weaving. Woven fabrics are
often created on a loom and made of many threads woven on
a warp and a weft. Technically, a woven fabric is any fabric made by
interlacing two or more threads at right angles to one another.

❖ Properties of woven fabric:
❖ The appearance of Woven Fabrics
1. Surface characteristics (luster, opaque)
2. Texture (i.e. the visual & tactile perceptions for velvets, silk fabrics)

3. Ornamentation:
Using of colored yarn: When colored yarns are used in one direction,
color stripes are produced along the length or across the width of the
fabric. When colored yarns are used in warp and weft direction
together, a check effect produced. These arrangements are commonly
used in fabrics with plain weave or 2/2 twill.
Changing the yarn count: Stripes and check effects can be produced
by using different yarn counts in one or both directions. For instance,
rib effects can be produced by using different yarn counts in plain
weave fabrics.
Changing the yarn twist: Using combinations of different twist levels
and twist directions along the length of the fabric or across the width

5. (or both), different effects can be produced in the fabric. Also,
different amounts of twist produce different shrinkage (contraction)
characteristics in different parts of the fabrics and so change the
appearance.
Combining different weaves: There are many ways to combine
different weaves. Stripe, check effects and figured fabrics can be
produced.
Different finishing techniques: Treatments such as dyeing, printing,
mercerizing or coating can change the surface characteristics of the
fabrics and combinations of any of the above.
❖ Mechanical Properties of Woven Fabrics
Tensile strength: It implies the behaviour of the fabric under different
loads applied.
Extensibility: It is the ability of the fabric to extend under load.
Tear Strength: A hole has been made in the fabric because it has been
pulled sharply.
Abrasion Resistance: Resistance of the fabric against the surface
friction.
Crease Resistance: Creases are irregular lines that appear on cloth
when it has been crushed.
Pilling Resistance: Hairs on the surface of a fabric tend to collect into
little balls (pills) and if the fibres are strong, these balls do not break
off – this spoils the appearance of the fabric.
❖ Chemical Properties of Woven Fabrics – correlated to
fiber properties
1. Composition of fiber
2. Chemical stability

6. 3. The effect of heat, moisture, acids, alkalis, solvents and other
chemicals on fibres
4. The affinity of the fibre for dyestuffs
5. Moisture holding ability
6. Burning behaviour.

❖ Practical example of woven fabric:
Woven fabric is used for the below purposes:
1.Jackets,
2.Dress,blouses
3.Bridal satins,
4. Lining fabrics,
5. Stretch fabrics,
6. Blanket binders,
7. Shower curtain,
8. Umbrellas.

Make curtains using woven fabric:
The majority of curtain fabric is made from woven fabric. This fabric
can be printed to give many different designs, patterns and colours.
There are various methods of printing including screen printing and
digital printing. When planning your new curtains the best way to
ensure that the curtain fabric you choose co-ordinates with your
existing décor is to obtain some fabric samples either in store or by
ordering online. You can then see if the fabrics suits your existing
colour scheme and expensive mistakes can be avoided.
Use woven fabric for upholstery:
Woven fabric is also ideal as upholstery fabric. It can be used for fixed
upholstery or for loose covers. If necessary it can also be treated to
make it fire retardant. Tartan wool fabric is a popular woven fabric
used for covering chairs and sofas, it comes in a variety of colours from

7. traditional reds and greens to contemporary colours such as hot pink
and turquoise. Wool fabric is great for upholstery as it is inherently
fire retardant. Other woven fabrics such as jacquard and damask
fabric are also hard wearing so ideal for recovering a tired chair or
sofa. Other items such as headboards and pelmets can also be
upholstered using woven fabric.

❖ Types of woven fabric:
• Voile fabric:
A soft yet firm, sheer fabric of plain weave. Generally made of
combed hard twisted single yarns, although ply yarns are also used.
Has clinging effect. It is generally 100% cotton, blends include
polyester or linen. Can be solid dyed or printed.
PROPERTIES
1. It is sheer and lightweight fabric.
2. It has soft feel.
3. It drapes and gathers very well.
4. Generally 100% cotton and less resilient.
USES
1. Ladies dresses, skirts and dress lining.
2. Accessory fabric in apparels.
• Poplin Fabric
Poplin, also called tabinet (or tabbinet), is a strong fabric in a plain
weave of any fibre or blend Poplin traditionally consisted of a silk warp
with a weft of worsted yarn. As the weft is in the form of a stout cord
the fabric has a ridged structure, like rep, which gave depth and
softness to the lustre of the silky surface. It is now made with wool,

8. cotton, silk, rayon, or any mixture of these, though originally made
from silk.
PROPERTIES
1. It is soft and medium weight fabric
2. It is durable and has good wear resistance
3. It has average drapability
4. It has poor crease resistance.

USES
1. men's shirts, blouses, pyjamas, children's clothes, and dresses.
2. Perfect for making banners or table drape displays in stores or
tradeshows.
3. It is also widely used as all kinds of sportswear, shirts, boy's suits,
uniforms, blouses and dresses.

• Muslin Fabric
Coarse type of plain weave fabric made of carded cotton or
polyester/cotton yarns of various thread counts heavier than long
cloth up to 140.Muslin is most typically an unbleached or white cloth,
produced from carded cotton yarn.
PROPERTIES
1. Unbleached greige cloth with low moisture absorption
2. It is smooth and delicate
3. It has good drapability
4. It is light to medium weight
5. It has low crease resistance.

USES
1. The upholsterers put muslin as the primary fabric of chair and sofa.
2. The fabric is lightweight, so it is used as slipcovers, bedspread, bed
skirt, throw pillow, table skirt, etc.

9. 3. Muslin curtains and window shade suits a country house.

• Georgette Fabric
Georgette (shortened from crêpe Georgette or Georgette crêpe) is a
sheer, lightweight, dull finished crêpe fabric. Can be solid dyed or
printed. A wrinkled surface is created by alternating S- and Z- twist
yarns in both warp and weft.
PROPERTIES
1. Uneven texture and has crispy feel
2. It is a sheer fabric and light weight
3. It has elegant look but dull appearance
4. It snagging is more and is difficult to sew

USES
1. Used as interlining or lining
2. Used to manufacture sarees
3. Used for scarves, dresses and various garment accessories.

• Gauze Fabric
May be of cotton, wool, silk, rayon and other man-made fibers.Usually
plain weave, leno weave, Occassionally knitted. Gauze used in
bookbinding is called mull, and is used in case binding to adhere the
text block to the book cover.
PROPERTIES
1. It is thin and lightweight.
2. It is fine and airy.
3. It is crispy and has poor drape.
4. It is open-textured.

10. USES
1. Bandages.
2. Some silk or rayon gauze
3. used for curtains, trimmings.
4. casual window dressings like panels and scarves.

• Satin Fabric
Originally silk, now also of filament man-made fibres with a highly
lustrous surface and usually a dull back. It is a warp-dominated
weaving technique that forms a minimum number of interlacing’s in a
fabric. Made in different weights.
PROPERTIES
1. Schreiner finish to produce lustre.
2. Soft and good drapability
3. It is flat and lustrous with a smooth surface
4. The surface slides easily for linings.
5. The long floats like 7/1 or 11/1 and filament fabrics are subject to
snagging and is poor resistant to abrasion.
6. The shorter floats like 4/1 or 4 and spun fabrics may be tough,
compact and durable with low luster.

USES
1. commonly used in apparel: satin baseball jackets, athletic shorts,
2. Women's lingerie, nightgowns, blouses and evening gowns, but
also in some men's boxe shorts, shirts and neckties. It is also used
in the production of pointe shoes for use in ballet.
3. Other uses include interior furnishing fabrics, upholstery, and bed
sheets.

11. • Velvet Fabric
Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are
evenly distributed, with a short dense pile, giving it a distinctive feel.
Compact short pile of silk or man-made fibre and usually a cotton
perhaps rayon back. Similar to plush but shorter pile. Velvet pile is
created by warp or vertical yarns and velveteen pile is created by weft
or fill yarns.
PROPERTIES
1. Smooth and softer
2. It is thick and bulky
3. Good warmth retention
4. Good drape and fall
5. Good crease resistance

USES
1. Evening wear
2. Upholstery
3. Curtains and Cushions covers.

• Flannel Fabric
A fuller and napped woven fabric, generally of wool yarn. Woven with
a twill weave which may be obscured by the nap. Blends can be used
to increase the comfort and drapability of the fabric. Flannel may be
brushed to create extra softness or remain unbrushed. Typically,
flannel has either a single- or double-sided.

PROPERTIES
1. It is soft and fuzzy
2. It good stretchability
3. It is thick and warm
4. It is very durable

12. 5. It drapes well
6. It is dull-surfaced It is slightly fuzzy
7. It is scratchy
8. It absorbs and releases perspiration quickly.


USES
1. Bathrobes
2. Skirts
3. Men's suits
4. Trousers
5. Flannel is used as blazers, jackets, trousers, women's suits, men's
suits, shirts, flannel pyjamas, flannel pants, sleeping garments,
work gloves, linings, coverings, and sheets flannel.
• Drill Fabric
It is a warp-faced twill woven fabric. It has a stiff finish. Originally it
was produced in white and now it is available in solid colours. It is
mainly used for pants, knickers, and uniforms.
PROPERTIES
1. It is medium to heavy-weight.
2. It is strong and durable
3. It is breathable
4. Has good drapability It is tightly woven fabric
5. Has high tensile strength
6. Various finishes can be imparted to suit the end use of the fabric
USES
1. The lighter weights drill is used for skirts, trousers, dresses, jackets,
and household items.
2. The heavyweight drill is used as work clothes, industrial uses and
wall coverings.

13. 3. It is also used as pocketing, shoe linings, book
4. bindings, corsets, backing for coated fabric,
5. ticking, banners, slip covers and sportswear.
6. Khaki drill is used as uniforms and boat-sail drill is used as sails for
sailing craft.
• Terry Fabric
It is a warp pile fabric with loops of warp threads alternating with
ground threads. Terrycloth, terry cloth, terry towelling, terry, or
simply towelling is a fabric with loops that can absorb large amounts
of water. It can be manufactured by weaving or knitting, with weaving
on a dobby loom the predominant commercial method, having two
beams of longitudinal warp through which the filler or weft is fired
laterally
PROPERTIES
1. It is very absorbent and comfortable.
2. It is easy to launder.
3. It does not require ironing.
4. It is bulky and thick
USES
1. Towels, Bath robes, Beach cover-up’s
2. Sportswear, children's wear
3. Draperies
4. Exercise wear
5. Infants and toddler accessories.
• Denim Fabric
It was traditionally a yarn dyed, warp-faced cotton twill fabric. Warp
is usually coloured (mostly blue, maroon, green and brown) and weft
is white. This fabric is made of two weights for sportswear and
overalls. Its use as jeans has made it very popular and so the nature of

14. denim is also changed to suit the trend. It is often napped, printed and
made with stretch yarn effect. Firm, left hand, 2/1 3/1,twill weave of
white filling and coloured warp, typically indigo dyed. Uses coarse yarn
for weaving. Generally warp dyed Slub yarns can also be inserted for
varied effects.
PROPERTIES
1. Strong, Durable
2. It is for long wearing.
3. It resists snags and tears.
USES
1. casual style clothing, such as jeans, skirts.
2. lightweight jackets and suits.
3. shorts, children's clothes.
4. for protective clothing.
5. In apparel, it is used as jeans, skirts, shorts, light weight jackets and
suits, uniforms, work-cloths, overalls, sportswear, caps, evening
wear and children's cloth.
• Corduroy Fabric
A ribbed pile fabric with a high luster and soft feel. Made with extra
filling threads, which floats over the ground threads. After weaving
these loops threads are cut, brushed, forming a pile.
PROPERTIES
1. It is warm.
2. It is durable fabric
3. It is thick and stable fabric
4. It absorbs and releases moisture quickly.

15. USES
1. Used for better cloths, draperies and upholstery.
2. It is commonly made into pants or trousers, jackets (sports) and
shirts.
3. Corduroy is also used as skirts, suits, slacks, children's cloths and
dresses.
• Chiffon Fabric
It is a fabric made of polyester with a soft and crispy texture. High twist
yarns are used for weaving. It is flimsy in nature. Made from high
twisted yarn and woven in gummed condition..
PROPERTIES
1. Highly twisted yarns
2. Extremely lightweight and Flimsy
3. It is elegant and sheer fabric.
4. It is resilient and drapes well
USES
1. Used for - special occasion dresses,
- nightgowns,
- linings
2. Also used as
- eveningwear,
- blouses
- scarves.
• Cambric Fabric
It is a cloth made of high quality cotton yarn and given a special finish.
This imparts a bright appearance to the cloth. It is a lightweight plain
weave cloth, originally from Cambria, woven in greige, then bleached

16. and piece dyed, often glazed calendered. or Initially made from flax,
then cotton in the 19th century, it is also called batiste.
PROPERTIES
1. Has stiff feel.
2. The fabric is - light to medium weight, Crispy
3. Have high tensile strength

USES
1. Home furnishing industries.
2. linens, shirting’s, handkerchieves and as fabric for lace and
needlework.
• Buckram Fabric
It is a stiff coated fabric made from a lightweight loosely woven fabric,
impregnated with adhesives and fillers. This fabric is used as
interfacing so as to provide support and shape retention to necklines,
collars, belts, cuffs, waistbands, button closures etc in garments. They
are also used as reinforcements for handbags and other articles.
• Casement Fabric
Casement is a medium weight cotton fabric made of closely packed
thick warp yarns. Generally, it is used for curtains, table linen,
upholstery and rarely used for dresses.
• Cheese Cloth
It is a popular lightweight sheer fabric having an open weave. It has a
low count fabric consisting of carded yarns. Originally it was used for
wrapping cheese or meat and hence the name. It is neither strong nor
durable. It is finished in a variety of ways that attract the consumer. It
is used not only for women’s and children’s dresses but also for

17. drapery fabrics. Due to its open structure, it does not require much
ironing.
• Chintz Fabric
Chintz is a medium weight, plain woven cotton yarn. It is often given
a glazed finish which may be temporary or semi-permanent glazed
chintz are available in solid colour as well as printed with floral prints.
These are often made from blends of cotton and polyester or rayon.
They are used for skits, dresses, blouses, pyjamas, aprons, and
draperies.
• Crepe Fabric
A silk fabric is originally characterized by a crinkle, puckered surface
formed by highly twisted yarns in the warp or weft or both. By using
ordinary yarns similar crepe effects can also be produced. Synthetic
fabrics also impart crepe effect finish. It is used for sarees, shirts,
women and children’s dresses.
• Gabardine Fabric
Gabardine is a closely woven, clear finished warp-faced twill fabric. It
contains a number of warp yarns than weft yearns and also more
durable. It is usually woven in 2/1 or 2/2 twill and has a raised diagonal
twill effect on the right side. It largely used for raincoats, suitings, and
sportswear.
• Kashmir Silk Fabric
Kashmir silk is a silk fabric produced in plain weave and is either
embroidered or printed. The motifs used are characteristic of Kashmir.
It is used for shirts, women’s wear and sarees. Kashmir shawls are
woven in twill weave and are usually embroidered with traditional
Kashmiri embroidery.

18. • Khadi Fabric
Khadi is a term used for a wide variety of fabrics that are hand spun
and hand woven. They are produced in mainly one cotton fibre, blends
of two or more fibres. They are known for durability and simplicity.
The fabrics can be suitings dhoties overalls and household textiles.
• Lawn Fabric
The lawn is a fine sheet, lightweight, crisp fabric either made of cotton
or linen. Various finishes are given to this fabric, in which the fabric is
called by the name of the finish. It is mainly used as lining in a dress.

• Mulmul Fabric
It is an Indian term generally applied to fine cotton fabric slightly
heavier, than muslin. These are often printed fabrics. They find use as
sarees.
• Sheeting Fabric
These are primarily used for bed coverings. They are medium weight,
closely woven fabrics woven either in plain or twin weave. Sheeting
fabrics are made in different widths. High-quality cotton sheeting’s are
made in plain weave with a width of 64″ x 58″ and in a twill weave
with a width of 60″x72″.
• Taffeta Fabric
Taffeta is a smooth, crisp, transparent fabric having a fine rib.
Originally it is made with silk fibres but now it is also made of rayon. It
has a characteristic finish which produces crispness. It is used as
women’s evening wear.

19. • Tissue Fabric
It is a fine fabric either made of silk or man-made fibre. They are
characteristically interwoven with gold or silver threads. It is produced
in rich colours and they are used as women’s dress material, sarees
etc.
• Mousseline Fabric
A term used to denote very fine clear fabrics, finer than muslins. Made
of silk, wool or cotton, the weave structure is either (plain) tabby or
two and one twill. In the 18th century, the British term referred to a
fine cloth with a cotton warp and a worsted weft. In France, from the
late 18th century onwards mousseline-delaines were made of very
fine wool which was printed in beautiful designs. This fabric
proved very popular for fashionable as dress and shawl fabrics. The
mousseline cloth is so fine and transparent it is often found backed
with another cloth of either a satin or taffeta silk.
• Organdie / Organza Fabric
Originally it is a lawn fabric which is given a stiff finish. Acid is used for
this finish to make the fabric transparent and stiff. It is mainly used for
women’s wear.A thin light fabric in a (plain) tabby weave which, if
organza, has a very stiff crisp finish; and for organdie, the finish is
lighter or there is no finish, and thus the cloth is more pliable.
The structure of the cloth always has more warps than wefts per inch,
and the weft threads are finer than the warp threads. Illustrated is a
colourful group of organza fabrics.
• Leno Fabric
A fabric in which an open effect is created by causing certain thread
ends or doup threads to cross over. Two threads or ends act as one
thread; when a weft thread passes between them, the doup ends
twist catching the weft and holding it tightly in place. Very fancy and
beautiful clothes can be produced by combining the cross weaving,
with other weave structures.

20. • Aertex Fabric
A trade name for a cloth patented in Britain in 1886, which was first
manufactured in 1888. The cloth traps air in between its structure,
keeping the body cool in summer, and warm in winter. Two threads
or ends act as one thread; when a weft thread passes between them,
the doup ends twist catching the weft and holding it tightly in place.
Very fancy and beautiful clothes can be produced by combining the
cross weaving with other weave structures.
• Madras Muslin Net Fabric
Madras net is used mainly for furnishing such as curtaining. The cloth
is an open gauze ground cloth where an extra weft is inserted to
produce a motif, this is then woven into the ground cloth. Where
there is a surplus floating weft yarn this is then cut away after weaving
revealing the motif, the edge of the sheared motif shows shorn ends
of a weft yarn.
• Aida cloth Fabric
Aida cloth is a cotton fabric with a natural mesh pattern generally used
for cross-stitch embroidery. The open, even-weave Aida fabrics’
natural stiffness enables the fabric the embroiders choice.

21. ❖ Nonwoven fabric:
Nonwoven fabric is a fabric-like material made from staple fibre
(short) and long fibres (continuous long), bonded together by
chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment. The term is used in
the textile manufacturing industry to denote fabrics, such as felt,
which are neither woven nor knitted. Some non-woven materials lack
sufficient strength unless densified or reinforced by a backing. In
recent years, non-wovens have become an alternative
to polyurethane foam.

❖ Properties of non woven fabric:
1. Non-woven fabrics are not very strong.
2. Non-woven fabrics can be made in a range of weights.
3. Non-woven fabrics do not fray.
4. Non-woven fabrics Can be made into moulded shapes.
5. Non-woven fabrics can be made from recycled fibres.
6. Non-woven fabrics can be made to be soluble.
7. Non-woven fabrics can be made to soften with heat and act like a
glue (used for hemming).
8. Non-woven fabrics can easily pill (bobbles from on the surface)
9. Non-woven fabrics may be weaker when wet.
10. Non-woven fabrics can be made permeable (water can pass ..
through).
11. Non-woven fabrics are cheap to produce.
20.Non-woven fabrics will also take on some of the properties of the.
fibre used in the web (e.g. wool felt is warm and insulating; polyester
wadding is lightweight and elastic) .

22. ❖ Practical example of non woven fabrics:
Personal care and hygiene
baby diapers, feminine hygiene products, adult incontinence items,
dry and wet pads, but also nursing pads or nasal strips, bandages and
wound dressings

Healthcare
like operation drapes, gowns, and packs, face masks, dressings and
swabs, osteomy bag liners, isolation gowns, surgical gowns, surgical
drapes and covers, surgical scrub suits, caps
Clothing
interlinings, insulation and protection clothing, industrial workwear,
chemical defence suits, shoe components, etc.
Home
wipes and dusters, tea and coffee bags, fabric softeners, food wraps,
filters, bed and table linen, etc.
Automotive
boot liners, shelf trim, oil and cabin air filters, moulded bonnet liners,
heat shields, airbags, tapes, decorative fabrics, etc.
Construction
roofing and tile underlay, thermal and noise insulation, house wrap,
understanding, drainage, etc.
Geotextiles
asphalt overlay, soil stabilization, drainage, sedimentation and erosion
control, etc.

23. Filtration
Havoc, Hepa, Ulpa filters, gasoline, oil, and air – including HEPA
filtration, water, coffee, tea bags, liquid cartridge and bag filters,
vacuum bags, allergen membranes or laminates with non-woven
layers.
Industrial
cable insulation, abrasives, reinforced plastics, battery separators,
satellite dishes, artificial leather, air conditioning, coating.
Agriculture, home furnishing, leisure and travel, school and
office
soil stabilizers and roadway underlayment, foundation
stabilizers, erosion control, canals construction, drainage
systems, gemembrances protection, frost protection, agriculture
mulch, pond and canal water barriers, sand infiltration barrier for
drainage tile.

❖ Types of non woven fabric:
• According to the method of production :
1. wet bonded
2. dry bonded
3. spun bonded
• According to the technology of raw materials :
1. staple fibre non woven
2. filament fibre non woven
• According to their end use:
1. durable
2. semi durable
3. disposable

24. • According to their properties
1. flame retardant
2. water retardant
3. water absorbent

❖ Properties of Non-woven fabrics produced using
different fibrous matter
Fibres Resultant properties
Positive Negative


Polyester
a. Good recovery
b. Good Heat setting
c. property
d. High elasticity
e. Good drape
f. High wet strength
a. High pilling tendency
b. Formulation of static
charge



Acetate Filament

a. Good handle
b. No pilling
c. Good recovery
d. Good drape
e. Easy bonding
f. Low price
a. Low wet strength
b. Low abrasion
resistance
c. Low softening point




Polyamide

a. Good wet strength
b. Good resistance to
soiling
c. Quick drying
d. Good chemical
e. resistance
f. Good elasticity.
g. Good heat
processability
a. Bad handle
b. Bad light fastness
c. High pilling tendency
d. High price

25. Viscose Filament
a. Good strength
b. High bulk
c. Good drape
d. No pilling
e. Easy cleaning
f. Low price
a. Low wet strength
b. Low abrasion
c. resistance
d. Slow drying Hard
hendle




Polyacrylonitrile

a. Good recovery
b. Good drape
c. Excellent chemical
resistance
d. Soft hand
e. High bulk
f. Good moisture
resistance
g. Excellent sun light
fastness
a. Low abrasion
resistance
b. Tendency to pilling
c. High price




Cotton

a. Good abrasion
resistance
b. Good bulk
c. High wet strength
d. Soft handle
e. Easy bonding
f. Excellent absorption
g. power
h. Low price
a. Non elastic recovery
b. Low resistance to
soiling
c. Low uniformity of
fibres

26. ❖ Knitted fabric:
Knitted fabric is a textile that results from knitting, the process of
inter-looping of yarns or inter-meshing of loops. Its properties are
distinct from woven fabric in that it is more flexible and can be more
readily constructed into smaller pieces, making it ideal for socks and
hats.

❖ Properties of knitted fabric:
Comparatively cheaper
Since the manufacturing process of knits is fairly simple, they can be
made more quickly and easily than woven fabrics. Because of the
higher production speed and reduction of steps, knits are more cost
effective to produce.
Manufacturing process is easier
Producing knit fabrics has fewer steps than woven fabrics. The
production speed to make a knit fabric is much faster (2 to 16 yards
per minute) than woven fabrics (0.5 to 6 yards per minute).
Come in every colours
While there are plenty of knitting projects that never use more than a
single colour of yarn, there are also several ways to work in colours.
Heathered yarns typically contain small amounts of different colored
fibres, while tweeds have a greater number of different colored fibres.
Every colour palette you can think of is possible to create with knit
fabrics.

27. Most require little care
Many knit fabrics require very little care to keep their appearance
neat and in good shape. Each type of knit does vary with care,
however. Here are a few to watch out for:
Cotton knits are usually safe to machine wash cold and tumble dry low
or lay flat to dry. Polyester knits vary greatly by manufacturer, but in
general you don’t want to let polyester get too hot or else it will melt.
Thus, wash cold and skip the dryer.
Comfortable
The stretchy, soft feel of knits makes them comfortable to wear for all
occasions, but especially great choices as travel and workout clothes.
This fabric can be dressed up or down and as a bonus is forgiving of
many different body types.
Lightweight
Knits won’t weigh you down, with their lightweight fit. This means that
even in the heat of summer, you can wear t-shirts and thin cardigans
made of knit fabrics.
Elastic nature
Woven fabrics don’t stretch nearly as much; stretching minimally on
its width and not at all on its length. AS such, knit fabrics are typically
used for activewear and swimwear. Their elastic nature allows for lots
of physical activity without detriment to your clothing.
Wrinkle resistant
If ball up a knit, it will crush easily. When you release it, the fabric will
spring back into shape without wrinkles. A woven fabric, on the other
hand, will wrinkle easily when balled up and released. The tendency
of knits to resist wrinkling makes them a popular choice for clothing.
Just think, no more ironing.

28. Can be constructed into small pieces
Since the construction of knitted fabrics makes them able to be used
in smaller pieces, this means that they are ideal for making hats,
mittens, socks, and hosiery.
Don’t form runs
Fabrics are produced by one of two general methods: warp knitting or
weft knitting. Both methods result in a variety of types of fabrics.
Weft-knit fabrics are more common, because they are easier to make.
When cut, these will unravel, or run, unless immediately repaired.
Warp-knit fabrics, however, are resistant to runs. These are still
relatively easy to sew. Think of tricot and milanese, popular warp-knit
fabrics that are used in lingerie
Practical example of knitted fabric:
• T-shirt
• Jumpers
• Cardigans
• Sweatshirt fabrics
• Net curtains
• Swimwear
• Terry towelling fabric
• Pattern tight
• Lace fabric

❖ Types of knitted fabric :
Depending on how the loops are made there are two types of knitted
fabrics
1.Weft knitted fabrics
2.Warp knitted fabrics

29. 1.Weft knitted fabrics
Weft knitted fabric is a method of fabric formation in which the loops
are made in a horizontal way from a single yarn and each consecutive
rows of loop build upon the prior loops consecutively. The
intermeshing of loops can take place both in a circular or flat form on
a course-wise basis. The fabric formed is very elastic, comfortable and
warm to wear. Properties can be varied depending on the types of
yarn used. The curls along the course and wales direction are due to
the fabric structure and the knit density.
❖ Types of weft knitted fabrics :
Weft knit fabrics can be divided into four primary structures:
❖ Single jersey knit fabric:
Single jersey is the simplest and most economical weft structure to
produce. It has a good stretch in both wales and course direction with
a potential recovery of 40% in width after stretching. It can be
recognized by the V-shaped looped appearance on the technical face
side and semi-circular loop on the technical back side. It has poor
dimensional stability with a problem of both shrinkage and growth
❖ Properties :
1. Face side and back side of fabric are different.
2. Curl or roll of fabric occurs at the edges.
3. Wales are clearly visible on the face side of the fabric.
4. Extensibility in widthwise is approximately twice than length.
5. Unravelling of fabric occurs from either side is possible.
6. Thickness of fabric is approximately twice the diameter of yarn
used.
7. There is only one series of knitted loop per courses in the fabric.

❖ Practical example :
widely used for T-shirts, casual tops, hosiery etc.

30. ❖ Rib (double jersey) knit fabric :
The rib is made by alternating wales of knit and purl stitch and is
knitted with two sets of needles. It has a vertical cord appearance
making it twice as thick than plain knit with greater dimensional
stability. They can be made both in a flat and circular knitting machine.
some of the other variations of rib knit are Cable fabric, Bird’s eye,
Cardigans, Milano ribs.

❖ Properties :
1. Double face or reversible fabric
2. Similar cord appearance in each side
3. Thicker and heavier fabric
4. Ravels only at end Knitted last
5. Lies flat without curl
6. Excellent width way elasticity
7. Form fitting.

❖ Practical example :
It is mostly used in hemming and neckline of sweaters.
❖ Purl knit fabric:
The purl knit structure has the face and reverses loops knitted in an
alternative course which can only be achieved with double-ended
latch needle. The thickness of the fabric is double than that of the
single jersey. It is stretchy with a definite right and wrong side. It is not
often used on as it can unravel easily.
❖ Properties :
1. Purl is reversible structure the both side appearance are same.
2. Extensibility is same as all direction.

31. 3. There is no curling tendency.(it does not curl at the edges).
4. The fabric will run in the wale direction starting from either end.
5. Unravelling of fabric course by course from either side is possible.
6. The fabric tends to be two or three times thicker than single jersey.
7. There are two types of purl needle bed machine: flat bed purl and
circular purls.

❖ Practical example:
It is most often used in knitwear, underwear, hosiery etc.

❖ Interlock knit fabric:
Interlock knit is a type of double-layered knitted structure produced
by alternating knit and purl stitch in both wales and course direction
on a knitting machine equipped with two sets of needles. the fabric
resembles that of jersey knit on both front and back. It has better
dimensional stability than single jersey and all types of knitting and
does not curl up on edges. It stretches more along the lengthwise
direction than in breadthwise. Due to its structure, it provides better
insulation as it is able to trap air between its layers.
❖ Properties :
1. Interlock the technical face of plain on both sides so the appearance
of face and back are same.
2. The Wales of each side re exactly apposite to each other and are
locked together.
3. Width wise and length elongations are approximately the same as
single jersey .
4. The fabric does not curl at the edges .
5. The fabric can be unravelled from the knitted last.
6. yarn must be removed to unravel a complete repeat of knitted
courses.
7. Fabric thickness is approximately twice than that of single jersey .

32. ❖ Practical example :
It is most often used in a sweatshirt, table mat etc. Interlock Knit
Fabric is used in all sorts of elastic garments, such as t-shirts, tops and
sportswear. It is relatively simple to use, but be careful not to stretch
the fabric while sewing. Interlock Knit Fabrics are usually used for the
production of t-shirts, polo’s and dresses. An expensive knit top will
most likely would be sewed from a interlock knit fabric and an
everyday t-shirt will probably be jersey.

2. Warp knitted fabrics
Warp knitted fabric is a method of fabric formation in which the loops
are made in a vertical way along the length of the fabric from each
warp yarns. Thus, there will be a needle for each yarn. The knitted
stitches in warp knit fabrics have a crisscross diagonal appearance
which feels smoother than weft knits. It shows less elasticity than weft
knitting. It becomes favourable over weft in properties like soft and
drapery, higher density, warm to wear. Through this process many
different types of yarn can be processed like combed, staple, carded
and filament which is not possible with weft knitting.

❖ Types of warp knitted fabric:
Warp knitting are four types. They are-
❖ Tricot Knit:
Tricot fabric is soft, wrinkle resistant & has good drapability. Tricot
knits are used for a wide verity of fabric weights & design. It makes
light fabric weighting less than 4 ounce/square yard. Some examples
of tricot fabric are sleepwear, boluses, dresses etc.

33. ❖ Properties :
1. The right side of the fabric has fine lengthwise ribs while the reverse
has crosswise ribs
2. A soft and drapery texture with some lengthwise stretch and
almost no crosswise stretch.
3. Very common fabric for making lingerie.
4. Soft and wrinkle resistant.
5. Good elasticity
6. Best warp knits
7. Inexpensive and quick to produce.
8. Curls along crosswise edge.
9. Good air and water permeability.
10.Crease resistance and good drapeability.

❖ Practical example:
1. Lingerie
2. Nightwear
3. Blouses
4. Dresses
5. Use as backing fabric in multi-component structure
6. Limited Interior uses because of high elongation.

❖ Raschel Knit:
Raschel knit is made using a single set of latch needle and spun yarns.
Knits can be lacy, highly patterned and even piled. Its properties
include a fabric which can be dense or compact, open or lofty, stable
or stretchy, single faced or reversible. It can be identified by their
intricate designs. The use can be in almost any garment due to high
customization of the Raschel machine from lightweight lace to heavy

34. chenille. The machines can produce both flat and tubular warp knit
fabrics.

❖ Properties :
1. Produced from spun or filament yarns of different weights and
types
2. coarser than other warp knit fabrics
3. Made out of convention or novelty yarns which allows for
increasing texture and designs to be created.
4. The face side of the fabric has slightly inclined vertical knitting loops
whereas the backside of the fabric has inclined horizontal floats.
5. They do not ravel.

❖ Practical example :
Raschel knit fabrics are produced from spun or filament yarns of
different weights and types. Most Raschel knits can be identified by
their intricate designs, the open-space look of crochet or lace, and an
almost three-dimensional surface effect design. They are mostly used
in sportswear and athleticwear. Raschel Knit Fabric has good draping
qualities and is frequently used as an unlined material for coats,
lingerie and dresses.

❖ Crochet Knit:
Crochet is a process of creating fabric from yarn or thread. The word
is derived from the Middle French word croc or croche, meaning
hook. Crocheting, similar to knitting, consists of pulling loops of yarn
through other loops. Crochet differs from knitting in that only one
loop is active at one time (the sole exception being Tunisian crochet),
and that a crochet hook is used instead of two needles.

35. ❖ Properties :
1. Generally delicate
2. Open weave
3. Can be available in various colours
4. Can be embellished
5. Lightweight.
6. Elaborate
7. Warm to wear
8. Comfortable
9. Different patterns can be achieved.
10. Different properties of the fabric depend on the yarns used.

❖ Practical example :
Used in a wide variety of fabrics ranging from nets & laces to bed
spreads & carpets, various types of edgings or trimmings lace are also
produced.

❖ Milanese Knit:
Milanese knit is made of two sets of yarns knitted diagonally. The face
side has fine vertical rib and the reverse has a diagonal
structure. Apart from the above basic types, there is a numerous
amount of knitted fabric made with various alterations. The flat or flat
or jersey knit can be varied by using different yarns or double-looped
stitches of different length to make velour, terry and plush fabrics.
There are also specialised weft knits such as Intarsia, Fleece, Jacquard
Jerseys, Knitted Velour, Knitted Terry, French Terry.

36. ❖ Properties :
1. It is lightweight
2. Drapery
3. smooth
4. mostly used for gloves.
5. Has smooth texture
6. made from two sets of yarns knitted diagonally
7. run resistance
8. The face of Milanese Knit Fabric has fine vertical rib, and reverse
has diagonal structure.
9. It is stronger., more staple, smoother and expensive than tricot
fabric.

❖ Practical example:
Milano Knit Fabric is the base of multi-coloured Jacquards. Milano Knit
Fabrics It is usually knitted coarse gauge and widely used for making
sweaters, dresses, Milano Knit Fabric can be used for collars as well.

37. ❖ Difference between Woven Fabric and Knit Fabric:
The difference between woven fabric and knit fabric are given below-

No. Subject Woven Fabric Knit Fabric
01. Interlacement Woven fabrics are warp
and weft yarn
interlacement.
Here, single yarn is
interlacement.
02. Fabric Selvage Woven fabric have
selvage.
Knit fabric have no
selvage.
03. Method Warp and weft used to
make the fabric.
Single yarn used, this
method were avoided
the warp and weft.
04. Sewing Easy to sewing Generally have more
stretch
05. Length Wise Length wise called
GRAIN
Length wise called RIBS
06. Flow Chart

Cone winding
??????
sectional or direct
warping
??????
sizing
??????
weaving
??????
finishing

Cone winding
??????
place the cone in creel
??????
set the m/c as per
design
??????
knitting
??????
Withdraw the roll.

38. ❖ Others differences :

NO. Knit Fabric Woven Fabric
01. Produced by using one set of
yarn.
It is produced by using two sets
of yarn.
02. It has higher elastic properties. Elastic properties not more than
knit fabric.
03. It needs less labor cost during
manufacturing.
Higher labor cost than knit fabric
manufacturing.
04. It is comfortable to put on. It is not more comfortable than
knit fabric.
05. It has high extensibility
properties.
It has lower extensibility
characteristics.
06 Knit fabric has higher recovery
characteristics.
Woven fabric has lower recovery
properties.
07. It has no dimensional stability. Woven fabric has dimensional
stability.
08. Finishing is advantageous in knit
fabric.
In case of woven fabric, finishing
is not advantageous.
09. It requires stretch stiches, like zig
zags.
It is easy to sew on and feed
through a sewing machine.
10. Wrinkle resistant. Hold a crease well.
11. No seam finish is required. Requires seam finishing, like
serging, to prevent ravel.
12. Edges curl and some knits run. Edges are prone to ravel.
13. Cool and breathable. Thick and wind resistant.
14. Most stretch is either in the cross
grain or the bias.
Most stretch is always on the
bias (diagonal stretch).
15. Mold and fit the contours of the
body better.
Look good with pleats and sharp
corners.

39. ❖ Comparison between basic structures of weft knitted
fabric:
NO. Properties

Plain Rib Interlock Purl
01. Appearance Different on
face & back;
V-shapes on
face, arcs on
back
Same on both
sides, like
back of plain
Same on
both sides
like face of
plain
Same on
both sides,
like back
of plain
02. Unroving Either end Only from
end knitted
last
Only from
end knitted
last
Either end
03. Curling Tendency to
curl
No tendency
to curl
No tendency
to curl
No
tendency
to curl
04. Thickness &
warmth
Thicker &
warmer than
plain woven
made from
same yarn
Much thicker
& warmer
than plain
Very much
thicker &
warmer than
plain
Very much
thicker &
warmer
than plain
05. Extensibility
Lengthwise
Widthwise
Area
Moderate
(10-20%)
High (30-5-%)
Moderate-
High
Moderate
Very high (50-
100%)
High
Moderate
Moderate
Moderate
Very high
High
Very high
06. End-uses

Basic T-shirt
(men's and
ladies),
Ladies
stockings,
fine
cardigans,
dresses etc.
Socks, cuffs,
waistbands,
collars,
underwear,
knitwear.
Underwear,
shirts, suits,
sportswear,
trouser
suits,
dresses.


Children’s
clothing,
knitwear,
thick and
heavy
outerwear.

40. ❖ Braid fabrics:
Braiding is a simple form of narrow fabric construction. A braid is a
rope like thing, which is made by interweaving three or more stands,
strips or rope in a diagonally in a overlapping pattern. They are used
for various industrial application. They have good elongation
characteristics and are very pilable, curving around edges nicely.

❖ Types of braided fabrics:
The braided fabric can be classified in the following ways-
1.By elastic use
a. Elastic braid (core material is rubber).
b. Non elastic braid (core material is wire or a bundle of thread).

2.By shape or formation
a. Flat braid (no core only sheath).
b. Round or tubular braid (contains core and sheath, but the core
is empty).
c. Olid braid (contains core & sheath, and more than one).

❖ Properties of braided fabrics :
1. Breaking load(At least 50% more than that of component yarns due
to interlacement of each other).
2. Breaking strength (50% greater than single yarn of which is
composed).
3. Breaking extension (At least four time greater than that of
component yarn).

41. 4. Flexibility (greater than that of cord produced by the some
component yarn).
5. Untwisting (comparatively better than cord).
6. Smoothness (has smoother surface than cord).

❖ Practical example of braided fabrics :
1. Increasing application of electrical wire,cables,harnesses and
ropes.
2. Industrial belts and surgical sutures
3. Making shaped article such as straw hats and small rugs
4. Narrow fabric such as ribbons and braid for millinery
5. Accessory dress materials such as cords, tapes
6. For making structural component for others industrial product

42. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS:
Fabric properties refer to a set of requirements fulfilled by a material
intended for a specific application. The fabric knowledge is essential
in the selection, designing and developing of a garment range for
performance apparel and is highlighted in this chapter with examples
and visual illustration. Fabric properties and characteristics vary based
on their texture, pattern, design, and structure. Fabric knowledge is
important for those involved in the textile design, garment
manufacturing, fashion design, product development, fashion buyers,
merchandising, quality control, fabric supply and sales. It also
becomes a unique selling point for marketing and promoting various
claims of a new technology. Garment manufacturing involves a
combination of processes, for example while sewing; various settings
have to be carried out to prevent seam distortion or puckering. Fabric
properties also affect cutting, laying-up of fabric layers and slip caused
while handling fine denier or micro-fibre fabrics. Understanding fabric
behaviour and their characteristics will enable the technicians,
technologist and designers alike to produce a garment, which is fit for
purpose and with the desired aesthetics. Hence, if a
company/designer prefers to design a range of base layer garment,
the choice of a fabric will be based on a number of factors as
highlighted in this chapter, internal and external factors, fabric
structure, fibre blend ratio, fabric composition, and moreover the
interaction between the garment and skin. The typical fabric choice
will be lightweight, made of micro-fibres, with a uniform yarn quality,
knitted fabric (medium to fine gauge); which has the ability to wick the
moisture from the skin, allow air transmission, and at the same time
prevent excess body heat loss. However, for an outdoor garment, the
fabric choice is heavyweight, coated or laminated or multi-layered
woven/knitted fabric sometimes quilted and possibly phase change
material, which has the ability to resist wind penetration, water
repellent and at the same time allow moisture vapour transmission.

43. In addition, the designer should also assess the fabric/skin interaction
under dynamic conditions (running, walking) and climatic conditions
(wind/extremely cold/warm) to verify its suitability. Therefore, it
becomes mandatory for the designers to have a wider understanding
of fabric properties and characteristics as highlighted in this chapter
so that they produce a performance garment, which is ideal for the
chosen application. It is anticipated that the reader after reviewing
this chapter will be equipped with new ideas and be motivated to
further their vision in designing functional and performance apparel
for the future generation.