Feline Care Power Point Feline Care PowerPoint

Feline Care PowerPoint

1. C25 Feline Care

2. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 2
Selecting the Right Breed

Introduction: When selecting the breed that is right for your life-
style and desires, it is important to become familiar with the
various breeds that are available.

The American Cat Fanciers’ Association (ACFA) recognizes about
46 different breeds of cats.

The 46 breeds it recognizes are not the only cat breeds, but
represent many of the most common.

3. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 3
Selecting a Mixed Breed Cat

Many times a mixed breed cat can make an excellent companion.

Generally speaking, because of hybrid vigor, these cats have less
genetically related health problems than purebred animals.

The cost of a mixed breed cat is usually significantly lower than
pedigreed cat.

4. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 4
Evaluating a Cat’s Disposition and Health

The best time to get a kitten is when it is at least 8 weeks old (12
weeks can even be better).

By this time, the kitten should have been weaned onto solid food
and can withstand the stresses of adjusting to a new home.

When looking for a potential pet, it is important to find one that
has a good temperament and has been well socialized.

It is also important to evaluate the kitten’s home environment. A
kitten that has been raised in a typical home where it is used to
hearing a television, loud music, talking, and even yelling, will be
better adjusted.

5. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 5
Evaluating a Cat’s Disposition

The following are a few tests that can be used to see how a kitten
reacts to different circumstances.

Some of these tests would also be helpful when evaluating an
adult cat.

Hold it in your arms. Look for one that is not bothered at all by the
situation or one that struggles for a minute then quiets down.

Subject the kitten or group of kittens to a loud noise. Look for
those that are startled, but do not run and hide. Kittens that ignore
the noise or want to investigate the source of the noise are also
good candidates. A kitten that cowers or hides from the sound may
have fear/anxiety problems.

6. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 6
Evaluating a Cat’s Disposition

Set the group of kittens in the center of a quiet room and throw a
balled-up piece of newspaper towards them. Look for the kitten
that comes to explore the newspaper. If a kitten runs and hides
or acts fearful of the paper, look for another.

Pick up each kitten and cradle a minute and then quiets down. A
kitten that fights, bites, or is extremely frightened may not make
the best pet.

Watch how each kitten interacts with the other kittens and even
other adult animals. If the kitten acts aggressive, dominant, or
bullies the other animals, it may not make the best pet.

7. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 7
Kittens - Care During the First Year

Quick Facts for Week 1:

Newborn kittens usually weigh about 4 ounces at birth.

Newborns usually nurse every 3-4 hours.

Because they cannot generate sufficient body heat, kittens will
huddle close to the mother and with the other kittens in the litter.

A kitten should spend about 80-90% of the time sleeping and 10-
20% of the time eating.

Many kittens will double their birth weight in the first week. They
should typically gain 1.6-3.3 ounces (50-100 grams) per week.

8. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 8
Weeks 2-3:

The eyes normally open 7-14 days after birth, but they cannot see
very well.

The ears are normally open by 10 days after birth.

By the third week, kittens can see well enough to find their
mother.

Their sense of smell is also well-developed by week 3.

The kittens will begin trying to stand and then to walk during
weeks 3-4.

They will interact with littermates and begin developing certain
social skills.

Their teeth will also start to erupt around weeks 2-4.

9. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 9
Weeks 4-7:

Quick Facts for Weeks 4-7:

The weaning process can begin at week 4.

By week 4, the hearing is well-developed.

Sight is usually fully developed by week 5.

Around week 5 the kittens often begin to groom themselves and others.

Coordination and the ability to avoid obstacles continues to improve.

Kittens’ investigative natures begin to develop around 4-6 weeks.

By weeks 6-7, they begin to develop adult social interactions, sleeping patterns
and motor skills.

All their baby teeth will be erupted by week 7.

The first visit to the veterinarian should occur at 7-8 weeks.

Weeks 7-8 also provide a good time to begin introducing the litter box to the
kittens. With time and the opportunity of watching the mother use the litter box,
the kittens will soon learn to use it.

10. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 10
Weeks 8-12:

By weeks 8-12, the kittens are ready to be completely weaned and
can be sold or adopted out.

Weeks 10-11 are when the second visit to the veterinarian should
occur.

Kittens should be fed 3-4 times a day until they are about 4
months old.

Socialization is essential for the kitten during this stage.

Begin introducing the kitten to bathing and brushing.

11. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 11
Quick Facts for Months 4-12:

A third visit to the veterinarian should take place around weeks
13-14.

Depending on the kitten’s vaccination program, a fourth visit to
the vet should take place around 4 months.

Spaying or neutering should occur by the time the kitten reaches 6
months old. Many clinics will neuter or spay earlier than this, so
contact the veterinarian to see what he/she prefers.

Continue feeding kitten food throughout this period.

After the kitten reaches 4-5 months of age, it can be fed 2-3 times
a day. Once the cat reaches 11-12 months of age, most cats can be
switched to an adult diet and be fed only twice a day.

The kitten will begin losing its "baby" teeth between 3-6 months
of age.

12. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 12
Behavior and Training

Litter Box Training: Here are a few suggestions that can make
training a cat to use the litter box much easier:

Many kittens will learn to use the litter box from their mothers.
This is one reason why it is important not to take the kittens from
the mother too early.

The litter box should be large enough that the entire cat can fit in
the box easily. It should have a lip that is about 3 inches high. This
keeps the kitty litter inside the box.

13. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 13
Litter Box Training

The kitty litter should be a brand that the cat likes. It is wise to ask
the previous owner what type of litter the cat prefers. Any sudden
change in the litter can cause the cat to find some other place.

Choose a location for the box that is quiet and does not have a lot
of traffic.

Any waste in the litter box should be removed on a daily basis.

The main reason a cat does not use the litter box is because it is
too smelly and dirty.

14. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 14
Teaching a Cat to Come:

Cats can learn to respond to their name and even come when
called. The following techniques can help teach these
commands:

Each time the cat’s name is said, reward the cat with a treat or
affection. The cat will soon learn to associate its name with
something positive.

15. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 15
Teaching a Cat to Come:

Once the cat responds to hearing its name being said, move on to
teaching the cat to come by associating the cat’s name or the
simple phrase of "here kitty, kitty" with meal time. Be sure the cat
is being fed only at meal times, twice a day. With the bowl in
hand, say the cat’s name and say "here kitty kitty." When the cat
appears, praise it and let it have its food.

A clicker device can also be used as part of the training. To use the
clicker, call the cat’s name and ask it to come. When the cat
appears, activate the clicker device 4-5 times and give the cat its
food or a treat. The cat will soon learn to associate the clicker
noise with the fact that it has done something the owner wants.

16. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 16
Behavior Problems

Introduction: The behavior problems discussed here are ones that
can commonly affect young and old cats alike.

The reason they are being discussed in a kitten section is that
many of the problems that develop later in a cat’s life can be
avoided if proper training takes place at an early age.

17. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 17
Behavior Problems

With any pet that has a behavior problem, it is always best never
to strike or hit the animal. Cats are particularly prone to fear, and
mistrust anyone who has physically scolded them. Following are a
few suggestions that can be used to help curb many behavior
problems:

18. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 18
Behavior Problems

A spray bottle filled with water, when used appropriately, can be a
great way of getting a cat’s attention and helping it stop an
unwanted behavior.

If the cat is caught in the inappropriate act, simply spray the cat
and say a firm "no.“

Do this only at the precise moment the cat is doing something it
should not. The cat will soon associate the water and the verbal
"no" with things that are not acceptable. This method of correction
is good for animals that like to scratch and jump on things.

19. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 19
Behavior Problems

Another way of getting a cat to stay off of certain places or things
is to cover the area with double-sided sticky tape or tin-foil. These
are surfaces that cats really dislike and will usually avoid.

Provide the cat with plenty of attention and play time. Many
behavior problems are the result of boredom. If human interaction
is not possible on a regular basis, getting a second cat can be an
excellent way of providing that extra mental stimulation and
exercise.

20. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 20
Behavior Problems

Changing the cat’s environment can often solve the problem. For
example, if a cat continues to use the corner of the couch as a
scratching post, place a suitable scratching post in front of that
corner of the couch.

Encourage the cat to use the proper scratching post. If a cat likes
to eliminate in a certain room of the house, shut the door to that
room to keep the cat out.

21. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 21
Problem: Meowing Excessively

Most kittens and even adult cats meow because of three common
reasons:

they are in heat,

they suffer from some sort of illness or pain,

or they are stressed or agitated by something (a sound, a
stranger, another animal, etc.).

22. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 22
Problem: Meowing Excessively

The most logical solution for a cat that is meowing or howling
because she is in heat is to have her fixed. This will promptly cure
the problem.

If there is a chance that the cat is sick, it should be taken in to a
veterinarian for an exam.

Animals that are stressed or agitated should be allowed time to be
alone in an isolated area if they want.

If the cat is stressed over a loss of a companion, try to play with
the cat or provide it with a new toy to play with. This can often
take the cat’s mind off of the stressful situation.

23. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 23
Problem: Nipping, Biting, and Scratching

These are common problems in not only kittens but also adult
animals.

These problems often result from a kitten that is taught to play
aggressively.

Some cats nip or scratch because they have "had enough" petting,
they are being touched in a sensitive area, or they are used to
being dominant or aggressive.

24. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 24
Problem: Nipping, Biting, and Scratching

Kittens that bite or scratch as a result of excited play activity
should be taught that such behavior is not appropriate.

To do this, only pet and praise the kitten when it is not biting.

Avoid playing aggressive games where tug-of-wars and biting are
part of the fun.

If an un-spayed or un-neutered cat is scratching or biting for no
obvious reason, it may pay to have the cat fixed. Many times an
intact male or female will nip or bite because of issues related to
sexual aggression.

Be sensitive to the cat’s body language and recognize that a stiff
body posture or hissing means that the cat has had enough and
should be left alone.

25. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 25
Problem: Picky Eater

Many cats and even larger kittens are particular about what they
will eat.

This is often a result of being fed treats or people food throughout
the day.

This problem can also occur if the cat is being fed "free-choice,"
meaning that they have access to their food at all times.

Cats fed free choice often "graze" throughout the day and never
really get hungry enough to consume large quantities of food.

26. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 26
Problem: Picky Eater

One of the best things that can be done to help a finicky eater is to
not feed them treats or snacks during the day.

It is also helpful to feed the cat only two meals during the day.
After each feeding, remove the dish after about 30 minutes if it
still has food in it.

Do not leave any food out for the cat to consume between meals.

It is also important to not give in to begging.

27. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 27
Problem: Scratching Furniture

Many cats enjoy scratching on almost anything. It is really a
natural behavior that is used to mark the cat’s territory and stretch
and strengthen its muscles.

28. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 28
Problem: Scratching Furniture

The key to preventing this normal behavior from becoming a
problem is to direct the cat’s scratching/clawing behaviors to
objects that can be scratched, such as a scratching post.

First, purchase plenty of scratching posts and place them around
the house in the areas where the cat likes to scratch.

When introducing a cat to a scratching post, it is often helpful to
put sheets of newspaper or fabric around the post. This gives the
cat something to shred with its claws.

Encourage and praise the cat to use the scratching posts.

The posts can be moved to other locations once the cat has learned
to use them. When a cat is observed scratching on a forbidden
item, use a squirt from a spray bottle to get the cat’s attention and
deter it from scratching.

29. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 29
Geriatric Cats

On average, cats age five times faster than humans. The average
life-expectancy of a cat is 14 years and depends upon many
factors: genetics, nutrition, environment, and vaccination history,
to name a few.

Once a cat has entered the pre-geriatric years (6-7), steps should
be taken by the owner to help ensure that the pet might obtain the
most enjoyment from its remaining years. The following are basic
recommendations in caring for an aging cat:

30. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 30
Geriatric Cats

Arrange for the cat to have an annual or bi-annual comprehensive
physical exam and diagnostic work-up:

A comprehensive physical exam by a veterinarian on a yearly
basis will help to ensure that any health problem the animal is
experiencing might be discovered early.

The earlier a problem is discovered and therapy initiated, the
better the chance of a favorable outcome.

While many illnesses are incurable, if detected early and the
proper treatment initiated, even incurable illnesses may be
successfully managed for several months to years before causing
deterioration and death.

31. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 31
Geriatric Cats

Diet: As animals age, their body’s nutritional needs change as
well. Geriatric animals generally require fewer calories and less
protein.

Increased fiber may help maintain proper function of the digestive
system.

Most pet food companies offer a reduced calorie or senior diet
made especially for aging pets.

It is recommended that owners make a permanent switch during
the pre-geriatric years to a diet specially formulated for the older
cat, and that the recommendations for feeding be followed.

Obesity from overeating or from a diet too rich in calories is one
of the surest ways to put the health of a pet at risk.

32. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 32
Geriatric Cats

Elimination of stress: Geriatric cats do not adjust to physical and
emotional stress as well as younger cats.

Most domestic animals thrive on daily routine and often develop
biological clocks with incredibly precise punctuality!

Change in routine, temperature, and diet can all contribute to
emotional and physical stress.

Boarding and hospitalization are particularly stressful to the
geriatric cat; home-care under the supervision of a veterinarian
may be more healthy for a geriatric pet than lengthy stays at a
clinic or boarding facility.

33. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 33
Geriatric Cats

Development of long-term, healthy habits will contribute to the
emotional and physical well-being of a cat.

These healthy habits might also be known as "de-stressors" as
opposed to those things previously listed which contribute to
stress.

Healthy de-stressors include play time, brushing/grooming, and
reinforcement of good behavior with praise and nutritious treats.

34. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 34
Geriatric Cats

Be an alert pet owner: Many diseases of geriatric animals are due
to slow, almost imperceptible deterioration of body organs or
systems.

Unless an owner is extremely observant, many of these conditions
may go unnoticed until the problem has deteriorated into the final
stages.

Careful observation of behavior, mobility, hearing, vision, hair
coat, appetite, thirst, urination habits, defecation habits, weight
changes, and other aspects of the pet’s daily routine, will help the
owner notice differences or abnormalities if and when they do
begin to surface.

Early diagnosis and initiation of treatment may be of critical
importance to the pet’s future and quality of life.

35. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 35
Table #1: Basic Nutrient Requirements
on a Dry Matter Basis
Stage of Life% % Crude Protein % Crude Fiber % Crude Fat
Growth >35 <5 >17
Reproduction /Lactation>35 <5 >17
Normal Maintenance >25 <5 >10
Old Age 25-35 <5 >15

36. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 36
Table #2: General Guidelines
for Food and Water Consumption
Animal's
 
Weight in lbs.
Canned
 
(oz.)
Dry
 
(cups)
Soft
 
(cups)
Water per
 
day in mL's
 
A=Active
 
I=Inactive
Kittens 1 4.2 0.4 0.5 NA
2 6.6 0.6 0.7 NA
3 9 0.8 1.0 NA
4 10 0.9 1.1 NA
6 8 0.7 0.8 A=240
 I=180
Cats 8 9 0.8 1.0 A=320
 I=240
10 10 1.0 1.1 A=400
 I=300
12 12 1.11 .3 A=480 I=360
14 13 1.21 .5 A=560
 I=420

37. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 37
Dental Care

Dental hygiene is an area often overlooked in many animals today.
Just like dogs, cats have problems with bad breath, tartar buildup,
gingivitis, tooth decay, and cavities. Many of these are very
serious problems and may result in life threatening disease.
Prevention of dental disease is an important key to the healthy pet.

38. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 38
Tooth Brushing

Daily brushing of the teeth is invaluable in removing plaque and
preventing calculus buildup.

The ideal toothbrush for a cat should have soft bristles with
rounded tip ends to minimize abrasion of the teeth and injury to
the gums.

Brush the teeth the same way you would a dog.

39. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 39
Tooth Brushing

40. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 40
Parasite Prevention

Each Month:

Administer heartworm prevention. (ivermectin or selamectin)

Administer flea and tick prevention in problem areas.
Effective products include Frontline or Advantage.

41. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 41
Parasite Prevention

Every 3-12 Months:

Administer additional parasite prevention/treatment for
roundworms, tapeworms, and hookworms.

The frequency of this treatment is based on the risk of
recurring infections and the specific area where the animal
resides.

42. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 42
Vaccination Program

Kittens that are 6-8 weeks old when receiving their first
vaccination:

6-8 weeks (first vaccination):
Recommended: distemper, rhinotracheitis, and calicivirus

9-11 weeks (second vaccination):
Recommended: feline distemper, rhinotracheitis, and calicivirus

12-14 weeks (third vaccination):
Recommended: feline distemper, rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, and
rabies

*Rabies may be administered any time on or after 12 weeks of
age.

43. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 43
Vaccination Program

Kittens and adults that are 12 weeks old or greater when receiving
their first vaccination:

Any cat greater than 12 weeks (first vaccination):
Recommended: feline distemper, rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, and
*rabies

At 2-3 weeks following the first vaccination:
Recommended: feline distemper, rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, and
rabies

44. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 44
Vaccination Program

Boosters are recommended for all animals that have had a series
of vaccinations previously:

Recommended yearly: feline distemper, rhinotracheitis,
calicivirus, and *rabies

Rabies is recommended every 1-3 years depending on cat’s age,
product used, and local public health laws.

45. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 45
Brushing and Bathing

A main key to good grooming is good nutrition. Without good
nutrition the pet’s coat will appear dry and lifeless.

Cats, unlike dogs, are great at grooming themselves to stay clean.
As a result, most cats do not require regular bathing, but often
benefit from regular brushing.

Regular brushing helps to remove dead hair and prevent potential
hairball problems.

Brushing also helps prevent mat formation in long-haired animals.

Most types of hair coats can be categorized into one of two
groups:

Short-haired breeds

Long-haired breeds

The type of hair coat the cat has will determine the frequency of
brushing and bathing.

46. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 46
Brushing

Both short-haired and long-haired cats require brushing.

Obviously, long-haired animals will require more frequent
brushing than short-haired cats.

Ideally, introduction to the brushing procedure should occur as
early in the cat’s life as possible.

It is not unreasonable to start conditioning a kitten to brushing soon
after it is weaned.

Kittens or adults should be introduced to brushing in a similar
manner.

Start by combing the cat for just a minute or so each day.

This can be done while the cat is in a person’s lap or while the cat
is on a raised surface.

Make sure that the surface is not slick and the cat can get its
footing.

Begin by using the fine-toothed comb.

47. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 47
Brushing

Do not worry about removing mats, just gently comb over the
back and sides of the cat.

Make sure the experience is a positive one by rewarding and
praising the cat throughout the entire process.

Stop the combing if the cat seems alarmed or frightened.

Do these 1-2 minute combing experiences every day for a week or
so.

Increase the areas on the cat that are combed (the head, tail, legs)
as the cat becomes more and more comfortable.

After the cat gets used to the combing, brush the cat with the
short-bristled cat brush. Do this for 1-2 minutes per day in a
similar manner to how the cat was combed.

48. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 48
Combs and Brushes:

The right grooming tools will make any brushing job easier. It is
best to have a variety of grooming equipment on hand based on
the cat’s coat type. Start first by combing the cat, then follow by
brushing the cat. This will help to distribute the natural oils
throughout the hair.

49. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 49
Combs:

There are many different types of combs available for cats.

Some are plastic while others are metal.

These combs can be used to remove fleas and minor tangles and
mats.

If a serious mat is encountered, it is sometimes best to let a
professional groomer remove it. Injury to both cat and owner can
occur if the mat is not removed properly.

Flea combs have very fine teeth that are placed close together.
While combing, the flea comb will collect fleas and flea dirt.

Metal combs with teeth that are farther apart are also available.
They can be used to help prevent matting on long-haired cats with
dense undercoats.

An undercoat rake can also be used on cats with very thick
undercoats.

50. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 50
Brushes:

Brushes help remove dead hair and even dead skin from the cat’s
coat.

The brushes come as soft or hard bristled. The hard bristled
brushes can be used to help keep a coat from matting and
knotting, while the soft bristled brushes are good for short-haired
cats.

Pin or wire brushes can be used to keep long-haired cats from
developing mats.

These brushes have widely spaced metal bristles that are often
tipped with a plastic coating.

It is best to brush the coat first with a pin brush, followed by a
good brushing with a hard or soft bristled brush.

This will help to distribute the natural oils found in the hair
throughout the coat.

51. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 51
Brushing

Long-haired breeds need to be brushed often. Begin by combing
over the entire cat with a fine-toothed comb.

Be gentle if any mats are found.

Tenderly try to remove these mats with the comb, being careful
not to pull against the cat’s skin.

This can be very painful and make the cat less excited about future
combing sessions.

Begin on the outside edge of the mat and gently "tease" the fibers
apart. Some mats may need to be clipped or cut out. A pair of
scissors or clipper blades will do the job.

If the mat is difficult to remove or the cat earnestly resists its
removal, let a groomer finish the job.

After the coat has been combed, praise and brush the entire cat.

52. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 52
Brushing

53. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 53
Bathing

Most cats do not need to be bathed.

Exceptions to this rule include times when the cat gets something
on or in its coat that it cannot remove, or when there is something
on the coat that the cat should not remove on its own (oil, grease,
paint).

54. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 54
Bathing

This cat is being
bathed in a kitchen
sink. With some
conditioning, most
cats will tolerate the
occasional bath.

55. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 55
Nail Trimming

The most challenging part about
trimming nails is trying to identify how
much of the nail can be safely removed.

In this picture, the black arrow
identifies where the sensitive structures
of the nail begin.

The nail should not be trimmed below
this point.

In light colored nails, this area can be
identified by the transition from light
colored nail to a pink coloration.

The white arrow identifies the proper
location to safely trim the nail.

56. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 56
Nail Trimming

After the appropriate area for
trimming the nail has been
identified, the nail trimming
device should be placed over
the nail.

Gently squeeze the instrument
until it is touching the nail.

Make sure the trimmers are in
the right place, and then in
one quick motion clip the nail
completely off.

Be sure to use sharp trimmers.
If the trimmers are dull or the
cutting motion on the nail is
done slowly, the nail has the
tendency to fray and split.

57. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 57
Nail Trimming

The nail in this picture has been
cut properly.

If bleeding does occur after the
nail has been trimmed, simply
apply direct pressure to the nail
with a sterile cotton ball or pad.

Keep the pet relaxed and
confined to allow the blood to
sufficiently coagulate.

If bleeding cannot be stopped,
seek professional help.

58. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 58
Spay and Neuter

In the true sense, to neuter a cat means the removal of part or all
of the reproductive organs, rendering that animal incapable of
reproduction.

To spay refers to neutering a female cat, whereas to castrate or
simply to neuter refers to neutering a male cat.

59. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 59
Spay and Neuter

Spaying female cats is one of the most common procedures
performed in small animal veterinary medicine.

To spay a cat refers to a surgery known in medical terminology as
ovariohysterectomy.

This word literally means removal of the ovaries and uterus.

This procedure makes it impossible for the female cat to conceive
kittens and prevents her from going through normal estrus or
"heat" cycles.

It should be understood that this is not a simple or routine
procedure.

This surgery demands great skill and attention on the part of the
surgeon, and recovery can be difficult and painful for the cat.

60. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 60
Benefits of Spaying:

Behavior problems are generally reduced, including roaming
and intercat aggression.

Estrus (heat) behavior is eliminated. Such behavior in cats is
often very noisy and annoying to pet owners.

Infections, cancer, and other diseases of the uterus and ovaries
are prevented. Many of these diseases can be life threatening.

Spaying may reduce the risk of feline breast cancer developing
later in life.

Spaying reduces hormonal changes which can interfere with the
treatment of certain diseases such as diabetes or epilepsy.

A spayed cat does not contribute to the pet overpopulation
problem.

61. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 61
At What Age Should a Cat Be Spayed?

The customary age for spaying a female cat is approximately 5-
7 months. This time may coincide with the animal’s first heat
cycle.

Spaying while the animal is in heat poses additional risks and
should be avoided if possible.

At some humane society shelters, kittens are spayed as early as
8 to 12 weeks of age, with no reported adverse effects.

Those who advocate spaying at this early age suggest the
operation is less stressful and may take less time to perform.

62. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 62
What Is the Cost of Spaying a Cat?

This varies greatly depending upon location and veterinarian.

Many private practices will discount this surgery far below what it
should cost because many people select a veterinary clinic based
on the prices of elective surgeries such as spaying a cat.

The price for a spay can range anywhere from $50 to over $100.
When price shopping, it is important to ask exactly what is
included in the cost quoted on the telephone.

Some clinics or hospitals will include the price of laboratory tests,
anesthetic, pain medications, etc., while others may not.

Therefore, a higher estimate may actually be offering the better
price.

63. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 63
Feline Castration:

Castrating or neutering male cats is another very common
procedure in veterinary medicine.

The operation involves removal of the testicles and the organs
which provide housing for sperm development (the epididymis).

A portion of the cord attaching the testicles to the rest of the male
reproductive tract is also removed.

The effect is complete removal of the organs which produce both
sperm and testosterone.

This procedure is generally performed more quickly than the
feline spay.

64. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 64
Benefits of Castration:

Behavior problems such as roaming and aggression are
generally
reduced.

Sexual behavior by males, including spraying, is usually
reduced or eliminated.

Attraction toward female cats in heat is usually reduced or
eliminated.

Medical problems associated with the testicles in males are
prevented from occurring. These problems include testicular
infections and rarely testicular cancer.

A castrated cat does not contribute to the pet overpopulation
problem.

65. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 65
At What Age Should a Cat Neutered?

The customary age for neutering a male cat is approximately 6
months; however, as soon as both testicles are palpable (can be
felt) in the scrotum, the surgery can be performed.

66. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 66
What Is the Cost of Neutering a Cat?

It is important to inquire what is included in the cost of the
surgery.

Some estimates for neutering a cat include pre-surgical blood
work and medications to manage pain.

Other estimates may only include the surgery itself.

The cost of this surgery is usually less than the cost of spaying a
female cat, because the castration surgery is generally less time
consuming.

The price for a castration surgery can range anywhere from $40
to $100.

67. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 67
Coughing/Gagging

Coughing or gagging is a relatively common problem found in
cats.

Coughing is sometimes confused with shortness of breath,
sneezing, reverse sneezing, wheezing, retching, gagging, choking,
and attempted vomiting.

Severe coughing fits may often be followed by retching or
vomiting which can confuse a pet owner into thinking a cough is
actually an upset stomach.

68. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 68
Coughing/Gagging

A cough generally occurs because of an abnormality in the lower
respiratory system (trachea, bronchi, lungs).

Abnormalities include inflammation to the sensitive tissues lining
the airways, pressure from nearby structures on the airways (heart
or lymph node enlargement), or fluid leaking into the airways or
air sacs of the lungs (rodenticide poisoning or pneumonia).

Coughing can also be caused by heart disease and cancer in the
lungs.

69. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 69
Coughing/Gagging

Listen to both sides of the cat. With practice, normal and abnormal
lung sounds can be identified.

70. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 70
Hairballs

Hairballs are a common occurrence in cats.

Usually hairballs are more of a nuisance than a serious cause for
concern.

However, once in a while hairballs can create a problem in the
cat’s digestive system that can lead to more serious problems.

71. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 71
Hairballs

When cats groom themselves, they swallow hair that they shed
from their coats.

This hair normally passes through the cat’s digestive system and is
expelled in the feces.

However, there are times when a mass of hair can build up and not
move through the cat’s digestive tract.

This ball of hair creates a blockage that can interfere with the cat’s
normal digestion.

72. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 72
Hairballs

Cats with hairballs often vomit, cough, and gag. The cat may also
become constipated, have a reduced appetite, or stop eating
altogether.

Normally, the cat can resolve this problem on its own by coughing
or vomiting up the hairball. If the cat is unable to do so, there are
some commercial products that can help the cat get rid of
hairballs. These products often contain oil-like ingredients which
lubricate the cat’s digestive tract and hopefully allow the hairball
to pass through more easily.

73. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 73
Hairballs

An appropriate diet and daily brushing can help prevent the
formation of hairballs.

Foods high in fiber can naturally keep things moving along in the
cat’s digestive tract.

Regularly brushing the cat helps to remove some of the hair that
might otherwise accumulate in the digestive tract.

It is recommended to brush the cat more often when it sheds
excessively (during warm weather and shedding seasons) or if the
cat has long hair.

74. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 74
Restraint

The scruff of the neck is a common location to use to restrain a
cat. A firm grip in this area allows the handler to control the cat’s
head but does not cause significant discomfort for the cat.

75. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 75
Restraint

This picture shows how to properly control the hind legs of a cat.
Notice how the person’s fingers surround each limb. A finger
should always be placed between the limbs to prevent excessive
forces being placed on the legs and to help give the handler added
control.

76. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 76
Restraint

Once the head and hind limbs are secure, the cat can be gently
stretched into this position. Using this holding technique,
injections can be given and other minor procedures can safely be
performed on an otherwise uncooperative cat.

77. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 77
Restraint

A cat bag can also be used to safely restrain a cat. This restraint
method is helpful when giving injections, administering
subcutaneous fluids, and giving oral medications.

78. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 78
Restraint

This picture shows how to restrain
a cat for collecting blood out of a
jugular vein.

Notice how the handler has control
of the cat’s head and also has
control of the front legs.

79. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 79
Restraint

Similar to restraining the hind legs, a finger is placed between the
legs to prevent placing excessive force on the limbs and to give
extra control.

At this point, the hair is often clipped in the jugular region. A
second person will use one hand to hold off the jugular vein, while
collecting blood with the other.

80. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 80
Picking up and Transporting an Injured Cat:

When handling an injured cat, be aware that even the most
friendly cat may scratch or bite because of pain.

81. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 81
Normal Temperature, Heart,
and Respiratory Rates:
Heart Rate
(Beats/Min)
Respiratory
 
Rate
(Breaths/Min)
Temperature
(Degrees Fahrenheit)
Young Cat 130-140 20-30 100.4-103.1
Adult Cat 100-120 20-30 100.4-103.1

82. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 82
Euthanasia

Euthanasia is the deliberate ending of the life of an animal with a
debilitating and incurable disease.

The intent of euthanasia is to mercifully end suffering.

Euthanasia is a delicate subject to discuss, because many differing
opinions exist regarding the ethics of this option.

Some may view euthanasia as an alternative for a variety of
situations, while others may not see euthanasia as an option for
any situation.

The intent of this discussion is to educate and be of assistance in
making that difficult decision for anyone facing the possible
euthanasia of a pet.

83. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 83
Euthanasia

It is a simple fact of life that pets generally do not live as long as
humans.

Veterinary medicine has helped extend the average life-span of
cats through the benefits of preventative medicine.

Death, while it is upsetting to many, must be accepted as part of
the cycle of life for all living creatures. Acceptance is the first step
in dealing with a terminally ill pet.

84. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 84
Euthanasia

The end of an animal’s life may be calm and painless; it may also
be fraught with great suffering and pain.

When an animal is faced with a situation which causes pain and
suffering, regardless of what that situation is, veterinarians are
taught to relieve that suffering.

The oath which all new veterinarians take upon graduation states:
"I solemnly swear to use my scientific knowledge and skills for
the benefit of society through the...relief of animal suffering... ."

Euthanasia is one method of relieving suffering in animals.

There are other methods for the relief of terminal suffering, most
involving the use of pain-killing drugs.

If euthanasia is not selected, another method to relieve pain should
be chosen in its place.

85. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 85
Euthanasia

Timing of euthanasia is almost as difficult a decision as whether
or not to euthanize an animal.

In discussions with many owners seeking advice on when to
request euthanasia for a terminally ill pet, the concept of "quality
of life" is often addressed.

Because it is a matter of varying opinion, no dictionary defines
this term.

For this discussion, the true signs of suffering in animals include
severe pain, confusion, complete loss of appetite, uncontrollable
seizures or vomiting, and severe weakness.

Quality of life in these situations is generally gone and the
suffering must be relieved.

86. Infovets Educational Resources – www.infovets.com – Slide 86
Euthanasia

In those situations where chronic illness slowly robs a animal of
quality of life, the timing is more difficult.

Attempts at management or slowing down the disease process are
recommended.

These attempts can buy more quality time for the pet before the
disease causes true suffering.

There is a gray area on the timing of euthanasia; suffering should
be prevented, yet the patient should be allowed the maximum
quality time left to it.

While the decision is not easy for anyone, it is best made by the
person or people who are closest to the animal, with the assistance
of the regular veterinarian. These are the people who can best read
signs of suffering and best assess the pet’s quality of life.