Garment technology

Garment construction

1. GARMENT ENGINEERING COST CONCIOUSNESS GARMENT TECHNOLOGY SAMPLE ROOM SEWING TECHNOLOGY DESIGN DEPARTMENT OPERATIONS By Nistha Chandela Two Year Diploma In Fashion Design Confirming To NSQF Level 6 or NSDC Dezyne E’cole College www.dezyneecole.com

2. PROJECT REPORT ON GARMENT TECHNOLOGY SUMBITTED TO DEZYNE E’COLE COLLEGE Towards the partial fulfillment for award of Diploma in Fashion Technology as Technical knowledge development of Garment Technology on Fashion Designer Dezyne E’cole College Address : 106/10, Civil Lines Ajmer Contact : 2624679 / 9829024839 www.dezyneecole .com 2017-2018 Presented By NISTHA CHANDELA 2 year Fashion Design Diploma Conforming NSQF Level 6 VALIDATED BY NSDC & MINISTRY SKILL DEVELOPMENT

3. Dezyne E’cole College Civil Lines, Ajmer www.dezyneecole.com This Project Of Ms. NISTHA CHANDELA Student Of 2 nd Year Advance Diploma In Fashion Design, Confirming To NSQF Level 6 Of NSDC Has Been Checked And Graded As ______________________________________________________ Thanking You Principal [Seal & Signature]

4. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT I am Nistha Chandela, student of Fashion designing department of Dezyne E’cole College would like to express my gratitude to each and every person who has contributed in stimulating suggestions and encouragement which really helped me to coordinate my project. I also thank Dezyne E’cole College who provided insight and expertise that greatly assisted the project. Also, A special thanks to m teachers, parents and colleagues who have supported me at every step. Not to forget, the almighty who blessed me with good health because of which I worked more efficiently and better.

5. SYNOPSIS A no. of brands of fashion are operating in the market to provide to same to them. Industry work on the lead time i.e. six months time is not paid attention to the dress created will not be in fashion any more. The designer has probably visited overseas couture house to obtain indications of the possible trends for the next season. Marketing and design put their heads together and start formulating framework of the sample collection. Fabrics and trimmings are selected & ordered & the designer start to prepare theme garments of the collection. ashion Industry is a vast and huge industry that gaining popularity and increase intern day by day. The economic status of the Indian youngsters is improving day by day boys and girls are very conscious. F The designer also has to take into account the many technical & commercial factors involved. So when designs have been approved & materials delivered, the design team has to start becoming very involved with the production of sample garments. Clothing technology is a broad based subject because it combines a number of individual technologies, with each making a specialized contribution to the production of clothing. For all practical purposes the sample room is the research & development department of a clothing factory & one of the technical subjects which has to be examined is cutting. Before a sample garment can be mass produced its practicality & efficiency as regards cutting have to be ensured, is irresponsible to present the cutting room with unresolved problems. The most important materials used for nearly every item of outerwear has no sales appeal , because it is invisible to consumer. This material is the fusible interlining & since these materials were first introduced in the early 1950s, they have become an integral component of garment construction.

6. In every sector of the clothing industry, sewing operations are performed by a great variety of machine each of which has the capability for specific operations on a particular category of garments and or fabric. This wide choices of sewing threads, needles & other auxiliary components. While seeing all these content the pressing is also gain a important factor in garment industry. Pressing can be defined as a process which changes the geometric fibre structure of the being pressed by the controlled application of heat, steam & pressure. In this sense, removing a crease from a garment involves the same change of fibre lay as that required to open as seam or to press a hem. Finishing & inspection are the last two major operations in the manufacture of garments before they are bagged or boxed and delivered to the finished goods ware house. In most factories are follows these two operations which are performed by separate departments. In factories, production units work on bulk and according to pre-planned production processes & inspection routines. Production operators specialize in relatively small operations. With nearly every operation performed on a machine or item of equipment constructed expressly for the purpose. The work flow is balanced and, all things being equal, these factory units operate with a consistent rhythm. In its own way the sample room also manufactures clothing but its production is strongly characterized by the intermittent nature of its working. In design department operation the most important thing is to communicate each other with the help of the specification sheet. All this communication is in between the sample room & the design department through specification sheet. The communication of information is an integral part of day - to - day working routine in the design department. Although management is essential for all organized activity & regardless of size the design department is no exception.

7. C N E T T O N S COST CONSCIOUSNESS The Designer & Garment Costs Patter Cutting & Material utilisation Garment Trimmings GARMENT TECHNOLOGY Introduction to Garment Technology Sample Cutting The principles of Fusing Technology The principles of Sewing Technology The principles of Pressing Technology Garment Finishes & Inspection The Sample Room DESIGN DEPARTMENT OPERATION Communication Management & Organisation

8. Garment design does not exist in vacuum but is the end product of a chain of activities which can be said to start with production of textiles. The internal chain starts with the marketing department doing some formal or informal market research to evaluate what the market sector served by the company could be looking for and at what prices. Marketing and put their heads together and start formulating the framework of the sample collection. Fabrics and trimmings are selected and ordered and the designer starts to prepare the core designs which will represent the central theme garments of the collection. Core designs, when approved, will be the basis for developing planned groups of variations. The pre-sales design room process is followed. GARMENT ENGINEERING : INTRODUCTION So garment design becomes goal directed planning because apart from developing the appeal factors of each design, the designer also has to take into account the many technical and commercial factors involved. So when designs have been approved and materials delivered, the design team has to start becoming very involved with the production of sample garments.

9. COST CONSCIOUSNESS GARMENT COSTING CHAPTER – 1

10. Cost consciousness is a step towards the production of the creation by a Fashion Designer. So all these are influenced by the combination of two factors: Market specialization and The average garment concept. This linking provides the designer with a reasonably accurate basis for initial cost estimates. Market specialization is all about the sectors in which a market is divided which makes a designer to view a market in a completely different way. For example, sectors are divided according to garment types and subsections are primarily based on prize. And as far as average garment concept is concerned it is very widely used because of the production commonalities which exist between garments of the same type. COST CONSCIOUSNESS GARMENT COSTING The garment costing which is also known as bill of materials includes the garment costing details, the cost of every item attributable to the production of a particular garment. The sum of these costs plus the profit margin is the selling price which the company will quote to customers. Whilst each company has its own method of preparing costing, generally all components of a costing are grouped under four headings: Direct materials, direct labors, factory overhead (indirect labor + Expenses + indirect materials = 120% of direct labor) and last but not the least General overhead (45% of all other costs).

11. PRE-SALES DESIGN ROOM PROCESS Marketing Design Indications Of Trends Market Research Exchange Of Ideas First Collection Plan Materials Selection Material Orders Receipt Of Materials Core Designs Approval Of Core Designs Production Core Samples Trial Costing Approval Of Core Samples Customer Contact Agents/Reps Fashion Shows Extension Of Core Designs Produce Collection Final Costing Review Of Collections Marketing Program Sales

12. The cost sheet shown below is a sample cost sheet. This cost sheet is made using MS Excel with all the formulae applied to calculate total cost of the garment. THE COST SHEET

13. PATTERN CUTTING AND MATERIAL UTILISATION CHAPTER – 2

14. Over the years various researchers have established that approximately 85% of the material purchased are in the finished garment, with the remainder for one reason or another ending as waste. This figure is called the material utilization percentage and it is a crucial cost factor in the price of a garment. A pattern cutter cannot personally prevent excess material usage in cutting room, there are a number of procedures which can be employed to ensure that the garment pattern makes the minimum possible demands on materials requirements. These procedures are grouped together under the heading of pattern engineering. The overall objectives of pattern engineering are to improve the utilization factor of a garment pattern through prudent modifications which do not degrade the design integrity. A line has to be drawn between the enhancement of materials utilization and maintenance of the design objectives. Major modifications in a pattern includes front with extended facing, side seam displacement, two piece inverted pleat and splitting a one piece sleeve. Seams are important to be considered in the utilization part as many of these ensures the finishing of a garment. The most important properties of a seam are strength and flexibility. There are three elements of seam, lateral strength, handling and visual control. There are seams used to stitch hems also. This refers to the turn ups on the lower extremities of body garments, skirts, trousers and sleeves, etc. Facings, fusible and lining are also very important part to be considered in material utilization as 0.1” of difference in cutting can make a big difference in the material utilized. Last but not the least, computerized cutting, in which bulk work are to be cut by a CAM system, the patterns used for all materials should have a small modifications made to their external corners in order to slightly reduce cutting time which is a part of material utilization as time is also to be utilized in a proper way. COST CONSCIOUSNESS PATTERN CUTTING AND MATERIAL UTILISATION

15. MATERIAL UTLIZATION MAJOR MODIFICATIONS Original Modified (A) Front with extended facing Reduce Increase (B) Side Seam Displacement Original Modified Original Modified (C) Two Piece Inverted Pleat (D) Splitting A One Piece Sleeve Material utilisation percentage is a crucial cast factor in the price of a garment . These procedures are grouped together under the heading of pattern engineering. PATTERN ENGINEERING: The overall objectives of pattern engineering are to improve the utilisation factor of a garment pattern through prudent modifications which do not degrade the design integrity. MAJOR MODIFICATIONS: These modifications could include seam displacements slight reductions in flare, splitting very large components, separate instead of extended facings, etc. some of the examples are as following.

16. MATERIAL UTLIZATION SEAMS The most important properties of seams are strength and flexibility and these are determined by number of technical factors plus the characteristics of the fabric and the width of the seam allowance. This width combines three important elements: LATERAL STRENGTH: In this context, strength refers to the ability of the seam the withstand reasonable pressure at angles to its length. HANDLING: For operator controlled seaming there has to be an adequate margin between the right hand side of the pressure foot and the edge of the seam being sewn . VISUAL CONTROL : For operator controlled seaming there has to be an adequate margin between the right hand side of the pressure foot and the edge of the seam being sewn . Sewing Pressed Open Seam Width Pressure Foot Edge Of Foot Margin Lateral Strength Handling Visual Control

17. MATERIAL UTLIZATION SEAMS LAP FELLED SEAM: Commonly used for jeans and similarly styled garments, the seam allowance is determined by the needle gauge of the machine to be used. Seam allowance: 1.5 (needle gauge)+ 1 mm Turned Over Sewing Lap Felled Seam Needle Gauge EDGES: These are enclosed seams which are typically used for the edges of collars, lapels and flaps, etc. For profile or jig-sewing a seam width of 5 mm is used, and for operator controlled edge sewing 6 mm. in both cases, if the sewing machine also has an edge trimming action, an additional 2 mm is necessary.

18. MATERIAL UTLIZATION SEAMS TOP STITCHED SEAM: The two elements which determine the sewing allowances for these seams are the width of the top stitching and the thickness of the material. Margin is the width of top stitching plus 2 or 3 mm . Top stitch on light weight materials Top stitch on heavy weight materials Allowance and Assembly Top Stitch

19. Hems refers to the turn ups on the lower extremities of body garments, skirts, trousers and sleeves etc. and the same consideration apply to both the top clothing and lining. Different garment types have varying requirements as regards acceptable hem widths and the general industrial practice is : Body Garments- Outerwear and light clothing : Garment hems= 4cm, sleeve hems= 3.5-4cm . Trousers and skirts- outerwear and light clothing: 3.5cm Woven blouses and shirt: gross 1.2cm Cut Knits: cut knits have standard single turn, are overlocked . Linings: Sewn Hems: The allowance for sewn lining hems is derived directly from the hem width of the body lining . Open Hems: These are mostly used for flared garments . MATERIAL UTLIZATION HEMS Turn in allowance Finished Hem Turn in allowance Finished Hem Hem Allowance Finished Hem

20. For practical purposes, the width of a front facing depends to a large extent on the direction of the buttonholes in relation to the front edge. There are 2 standard directions : Vertical: Where the buttonholes are parallel to the front edge. Horizontal: Where the buttonholes are at the right angle to the front edge. The details which have to be taken into account when calculating the width of the lower section: The distance between the eye of the buttonhole and the front edge is equal to ½ the diameter of the button plus 5-6 mm. The length of the buttonhole is based on the diameter and thickness of the button. Label: If a label is position on the neck piece, the width of the neck piece has to be sufficient to contain the label plus a small margin all around. Thus the total net width of the neck piece provides the start of the inside edge line which runs down to the lower section. A net back piece width of 4cm is sufficient for most purposes. MATERIAL UTLIZATION FACING

21. Linings are also an important cost component and whilst the potential for pattern modifications is limited, there are some minor procedures which can enhance the utilization of materials. Skirt Lining: Skirt lining patterns are positioned in cutting markers according to the warp grain line of the material. Body Lining: Body linings can be modified by displacing the seams and this can be done in 3 different ways: 1. From 0 at the armhole to 3cm at the hem. 2. From 0 at the hem to 3cm at the armhole 3. Displacing the entire length of the side seam up to 3cm in either direction . MATERIAL UTLIZATION LINING Knee Length Lining Seat Lining

22. Sleeve Lining: Patterns for sleeve lining allows the simple modifications which are as following: Joins: Joins in the width of a sleeve lining are necessary in order to prevent excessive waste. Seam Displacement: In sleeves seam displacement is done in following different ways: Displacing the hind arm seams to increase the width of the top sleeve cuff and decrease that of the under sleeve or vise versa. Decreasing the head width of the top sleeve and increasing the width of the related section of the under sleeve. Displacing the hind arm seam for their whole length. MATERIAL UTLIZATION SLEEVE LINING

23. Computerized Cutting: Computerized cutting can lead to excessive material wastage. As the cutting blade of a computer controlled cutting head cannot turn through a sharp corner without disturbing a small area of the surrounding material. MATERIAL UTLIZATION COMPUTERIZED CUTTING Consequently, most CAM systems use the following sequence for cutting corners: The first converging line of corner is cut to its end. The blade is then automatically lifted out of the spread and swiveled to the required angle. It is then plunged back into the second convergent line of the corner. The pattern cutter should try to anticipate the possible problems regarding materials usage and should incorporate the solutions when preparing the pattern and not when the pattern is being used to prepare a cutting marker. For example, rounding off external corners of a paper pattern as illustrated.

24. In total all the trimmings used for a garment can be a substantial cost item and so their selection and use require careful consideration. There is no point in improving materials utilization if the savings made thrown away by using a zip which is two or three centimeters longer than necessary or by using expensive tapes as stay tapes. The professional approach is: sufficient for the intended purpose but no more. There are two types of garment trimmings: primary and secondary. Primary includes the linings. Garment linings have functional and consumer appeal objectives. Selecting linings for a garment totally depends on the practicalities. Secondary trimmings includes closures (buttons, hooks and eyes, hooks and bars, press studs, rivets, zips, Velcro, etc.) shoulder pads are also included in secondary trimmings. Garment trimmings have relatively critical functions in the make up of garments and whilst price is important, so is performance. There are good reasons why some trimmings are seemingly cheap, and their use without prior testing can sometimes result in an expensive boomerang effect. COST CONSCIOUSNESS GARMENT TRIMMINGS

25. GARMENT TRIMMINGS n total of all the trimmings used for garment can be substantial cost item I & so their selection & use require careful consideration . There is no point in improving material utilization if the saving made are thrown away by using a zip which is 2-3cm longer than necessary or by using expensive tapes. The professional approach is: sufficient for the intended purpose but no more LININGS: Fabrics types & properties Viscose {made from cellulose} Rayon {artificial silk} Polyamide {excellent tensile strength & high degree of elasticity} Polyester {tendency to soften & high melting point}

26. Garment linings have a no. of functional purposes besides their main one. These other functions include: Linings have a sheer surface. Linings help to preserve the shape of skirts & trousers loosely constructed or stretchy materials. Garments such as, dresses, skirts & trousers made from diaphanous material. Some types of outerwear materials have tendency to cling to the body & this can spoil the silhouette of garment. Linings are used to assist formation of design features on garments. Ex- difference in lengths between the body shell & body linings creates the blouson effect. Function & Consumer Appeal : Functions Consumer appeal An important factor of consumer appeal is to present a garment whose inside has an attractive appearance. Taffeta : A crisp fabric woven with a warp pattern which produces a shiny surface. Crepe : Made from specially processed yarns, mostly viscose acetate, finished surface of this lining & uniformly crinkled appearance. Satin (sateen) : S mooth & highly lustrous surface & a dull back. Satin is the name of a weave pattern & all cotton fabrics that were constructed with this pattern were called sateen. Crepe Satin Taffeta

27. econdary rimmings S T CLOSURES – More garments require some form of working parts to open & close them & those parts which are not attached to the garment during its production have to be added in the finishing process.

28. Buttons :- Buttons are the most widely used closures for all type clothing. Buttons have been made from wood, precious metals & ceramics, many of which are collectors items today. Utilitarian :- T his refer to buttons which are used to open & close garments. Ex- hip pocket on trousers or the patch pocket on a safari- styled garment Decorative :- these are buttons which have a decorative function & one of the most common forms is on double-breasted garments.

29. Hooks & Eyes :- This is a relatively simple closure system which is widely used for zip openings on dresses & blouses made from light-weight materials. Hooks & Bars :- These are metal closures which are used for trouser & skirt waist bands. Hooks & Bar Hooks & Eye

30. Press Studs :- These can be made from plastic or metal & consist of two working parts, the male & female, which are locked together. Rivets :- Whilst these are not closure parts, they are widely used for decorative & reinforcement purpose on denim garments. It require an appropriate device to set t hem on device. Rivets Press Studs

31. Zips :- Zips are a continuous form of closure as against buttons which are intermittent. Zips have become one of the most extensively used closure methods utilized by the clothing industry. Apart from their functional purposes, zips are also used for decorative effects or as a design features. Zips types :- Regular type Invisible zip Separated zip Continuous zip

32. This is one kind of trimming which is use open & close of special parts of garments. Purpose : ZIPPER Functional Functional purpose of zipper is as part of a garment here zipper is used to open & close the openings. Decorative purpose Where zipper is used as a decorative purpose, it inches the beauty of germens. Uses In making trousers & jackets , chain or zipper is in essential component which is used to open or close of special parts of garments.

33. Regular type :- Used in different lengths for skirts, dresses & other articles of clothing. This zip is usually inserted into a seam & whilst the zip is concealed, the setting stitching shows on the outside of the garment I nvisible zip :- So called because the zip & its setting stitching cannot be seen on the right side of the opening. The insertion of this zip requires a special type of presser foot & the setting operations itself is shorter & easier than for a regular zip. Separated zip :- This type of zip is utilized when the garment can be worn either closed or fully opened. Some typical application of separated zips are for blousons, parka jackets & zip-out linings. Continuous zip :- Continuous metal zips are cheaper in use than those made to specific lengths as they can be cut to the exact lengths required & there is no need to maintain regular stocks of different lengths. picture picture picture

34. Velcro :- They consist of two nylon pile tapes, one having a surface of loops & the other surface of microscopic hooks. When the two pile surfaces are pressed together, the hooks engage the loops creating a closure area the size of the tapes. The closure is opened by pulling the two tapes apart. Shoulder Pads :- Padding in various forms & on different locations of the body has been used for clothing for about 3000 years, & during the past 100 years or so pads have become a standard shaping medium for the shoulder line. Pads can be made from foam layers of non-woven materials around a central foam or fibre layer. For unlined garments a pad covered with polyamide or self material is generally used, & for lined garments there is no necessity to cover the pad.

35. Tapes :- These are narrow bands of woven fabric which are used for the following purposes in the make-up of clothing : Decorative – For binding the edges of collars, lapels & flaps etc. Stretch control – To prevent seams or edges from stretching during making – up. Finishing – sometimes used instead of overlocking on visible seam & hem edges. Flat Tape Double Turned Tape Bound Edges Stay Tape On Armhole And Shoulder

36. INTRODUCTION TO GARMENT TECHNOLOGY CHAPTER – 3

37. INTRODUCTION TO GARMENT TECHNOLOGY echnology has been defined as a technical method of achieving a practical purpose, T but its original Greek root meaning is the systematic treatment of an art. Clothing technology is a broad based subject because it combines a no. of individual technologies, with each making a specialized contribution to the production of clothing. Designer & pattern cutter, these technologies can be divided into two groups : Need to know : T he technologies which are directly related to the work of designers & pattern cutters. Good to know : This groups covers the other technologies which are part of a modern clothing factory but are not of direct concern for designing & pattern cutting. Background Clothing technology has a long history which could be said to have started with the discovery of the needle about 18000BC. Individual garments were made & all the operations involved were executed by hand with the aid of some very primitive tools. D uring these times, a typical workshop would consist of the master-craftsman.

38. There are two categories of machine : Domestic Industrial Domestic Industrial This machine are use for domestic use personal. Domestic machine are small in size, low speed & easy to use. Domestic machines are given only 1500 stitches per minute. Domestic make a zigzag, straight & many more stitches. Pressure foot operated manually using a liver at a back of the needle bath. In this seam width are marked in the throat plate. Manual oiling is done in domestic machines. This machine are use for industries & for mass level. It’s our very larger, faster more variety, more function, more complicated this there size & cost. Industrial machine are given 3000-600 per minute. Industrial machines only make a straight stitches. The pressure foot raised & lower with a knee lifter is on foot pedal. But no seam width marked on a throat plate in industry machine. Automatic lubrications is done in the industrial machine.

39. Inventors of Sewing Machine Year Name of Inventor Features Thomas Saint Joseph Madersperger Barthelme Thimonier Walter hunt Wooden Machine. Leather, canvas working machine. Straight seams, chain stitch. Lock stitch machines (needle horizontal moves.) Needle moves vertically similar to W alter hunt. Invent foot pedal electrical. 1790 1807-1814 1830 1832 Elias Haws Isaac Singer

40. History & Development of the Sewing Machines In 1791, British Inventor Thomas Saint was the first to patent a design for a sewing machine. His machine was meant to be used on leather & canvas. In 1814, an Austrian Tailor, named Joseph Madersperger presented his first sewing machine. In 1830, a French tailor, Barthelemy Thimonnier, presented a sewing machine that sewed straight seams by using chain sewing machines. The lock stitch sewing machine was invented by Walter Hunt in 1833. Elias Howe patented his machine in 1845; using similar method of Hunt’s. Issac Merritt Singer, invented rotary sewing machine in 1851. This machine combined the elements of Thimonnier,s , Hunt’s & Howe’s machine. Allen Wilson & John Bradshaw had developed a sewing machine, which was an improvement over Singer’s & Howe’s

41. Before the invention of the sewing machine, most sewing was done by individuals in their homes, however, many people offered services as tailors or seamstresses in small shops where wages were very low. Sewing machines

42. Several Inventors attempt to improve sewing The English inventor & cabinet maker, Thomas Saint was issued the first patent for a complete machine for sewing in 1790. The patent describes an awl that punched a hole in leather & passed a needle through the hole. Later reproduction of Saint’s invention based on his patent drawings did not work.

43. Barthelemy Thimonnier – First Functional machine & A Riot The first functional sewing machine was invented by the French tailor, Barthelemy Thimonnier, in 1830. Thimonnier’s machine used only one thread & a hooked needle that made the same chain stitch used with embroidery. The inventor was almost killed by an enraged group of French tailors who burnt down his garment factory because they feared unemployment as a result of his new invention.

44. Walter Hunt & Elias Howe In 1834, Walter Hunt America’s first ( somewhat) successful sewing machine. He later lost interest in patenting because he believed his invention would cause unemployment. ( Hunt’s machine could only sew straight steams). Hunt never patented & in 1846, the first American patent was issued to Elias Howe for “ a process that used thread from two different sources.”

45. Isaac Singer vs Elias Howe – Patent Wars Sewing machines did not go into mass production until the 1850’s, when Isaac Singer built the first commercially successful machine. Singer built the first sewing machine where the needle moved up & down rather than the side-to-side & the needle was powered by a foot treadle.

46. Off the Arm Bed Cylindrical Bed Long Arm Flat Bed Over Edging Machine Flat Bed Semi- Submerged Bed Raised Bed Post Bed

47. SAMPLE CUTTING CHAPTER – 4

48. SAMPLE CUTTING he sample room is the research & development department of a clothing T factory, & one of the technical subjects which has to be examined is cutting. Before a sample garment can be mass- produced its practical & efficiency as regards cutting have to be ensured; it is irresponsible to present the cutting room with unresolved problems. PREPARATION FOR CUTTING attern abric P F & There are four preparatory processes :- The pattern – As a medium of communication & as a production tool. Grain lines – Establishing the linear relationship between the garment pattern & the cloth. Pile direction – How this influence pattern component arrangements. Fabric pattern – what has to be taken into account.

49. The pattern is the primary link between design & production & so must communicate accurately with all the functions that have to use the pattern. Functions are pattern grading , marker planning & sewing, information is conveyed by numbers, marks, nips & notches, etc. T here should be a pattern For every component to be cut. Each pattern part must be marked on both sides with grain lines & directions indicator. Patterns for asymmetrical garments should be prepared for positioning : Pattern pairing methods Every pattern piece must be clearly identified as regards style number, garment type, the material for which the pattern is intended & the no. of components in a set for a particular material, i.e. cloth, lining & fusible. A simple & standard method is to use a rubber stamp. Style number Comp. number Garment type Size Home Export Material Piece in set Component 6108 EJ 41 0 6B Jacket 42R Lining 6 Back GERLIN FASHIONS LTD. THE PATTERN

50. GRAIN LINES This refer to the positioning of pattern components in relation to the true length of the fabric. A s a general guide, the grain lines for main components are : Fronts Backs Sleeves Lapel facings Patch pockets Inset pockets Top collars Under collars Other parts Examples of grain line marks (P= parallel to) PILE DIRECTION One - way Two - way No - pile Pile direction describes the lay (direction ) , length & density of the protruding fibres on the surface of the right side of the cloth. All fabrics have a pile factor :- Direction

51. FABRIC PATTERN One -way :- Pattern form dictates that the garment patterns for every dictates that the garment patterns for every size in the cutting marker must be positioned in one direction only. Two-way :- P attern form has a definite direction but it is not sufficiently dominant to warrant one-way only positioning. Non-directional :- Pattern form has no definite directions & subject to the pile factor pattern components for one size can be positioned for one size can be positioned in either length direction. PILE FABRIC Fabric pattern refers to the form of the right side of the cloth, and has three aspects: Two-Way One-Way Non-Directional

52. The lay(direction), length and density of the protruding fibers on the surface of the right side of the cloth. The question regarding pile is to what extent in influences the positioning of pattern components on the cloth whilst observing the grain line markings. All fabrics have a pile factor and for practical purposes they can be grouped under three headings: One-way : On these fabrics there is a prominent pile which lays in one direction only. Typical examples of this type of cloth are, corduroy, velvet and mohair. Two-way : this type of cloth is one of the most widely used in the clothing industry because the pile factor allows for higher utilization than one way fabrics. No-pile : This refers to materials which have a vertically negligible pile factor. This enables components for one size to be positioned in opposite directions. SAMPLE CUTTING PILE DIRECTION One-way Two-way Markers for one-way pile fabric Markers for two-way pile fabric

53. SAMPLE CUTTING MARKER PLANING To cut a sample garment, the pattern components have to be economically arranged according to their grain lines and pile direction of the fabric which is to be cut. The regular form of this arrangement is a rectangle with the short side equivalent to the net width of the fabric and the long side the length required to contain the pattern components. The drawing of this arrangement is a cutting marker . Net Width : This is sometimes called the cutable width and both terms refers to the width remaining after the measurements of the two selvedges have been deducted from the gross width of the fabric. Net Width Length

54. PRINCIPLES OF MARKER PLANNING Manual planning Computer aided marker planning Marker making

55. CHECKS & STRIPES When planning to make sample garments in checked or striped materials, the designer has to consider whether the intended designs are suitable for the selected materials. Fabric with a strong pattern is usually the dominant design feature of a garment 7 in effect, it is the fabric which is being sold & not seaming & decoration. CHECKS Cutting these materials has to combine the matching of both the warp & weft patterns. The size of the warp & weft pattern repeats are the determining factors. Facing and top collar Top collar and back collar Majority of garments are symmetrical it follows that the pattern of a material should be a positioned symmetrical on the garment. The objective of symmetrical positioning is to make sure that there is correspondence of the cloth patter on opposite sides of the garment, i.e. front to front, lapel to lapel, pocket to pocket. SYMMETRY Symmetry

56. The Principles Of Fusing Technology CHAPTER – 5

57. The Principles of Fusing Technology n garment industry fusing is also used as interlining. fusing is a trimming which is used I to enhance the quality and finishing in a garment as a student of designing we need to understand the types and characters of fusing. The term fusible interlining is used to describe a base fabric coated on one side with a thermoplastic adhesive resin which can be bonded to another fabric by the controlled application of heat & pressure. Construction of Fusibles Base material – Also called the substrate. Thermoplastic resins – Synthetic resins which melt when subjected to heat & revert to their original solid state when cooled. Coating – The amount of resin deposited & how it is secured on to the base fabric. fusible resin Substrate ( base material ) Top cloth The components The laminate Fusing

58. The base materials are produced in a diversity of woven knitted and nonwoven forms. Base cloths influence the characteristics of the finished garment :- Handle and bulk Shape retention Shrinkage control Crease recovery Appearance after washing of dry clean Durability Base Materials Non woven substrates Knitted substrates Woven substrates

59. Resins Resins are the bonding agent which is used between the base material and top cloth. Different resins conform the following conditions :- Cleanability – the adhesive properties of the resin have to be sufficiently strong to withstand washing or dry clean throughout the normal life of the garment. Handle – the resin must contribute to the required handle and not act as an unwanted stiffening agent on the final laminate. Upper Limit Temperature – the resin become viscous at a temperature below that which would damage the top cloth. The temperature varies according to the composition of top cloth, it rarely exceed 175⁰ C. Lower limit temperature – this is the lowest temperature at which the resin starts to become viscous, this is about 110⁰ C.

60. Coating Density – resin are applied to substrates in three different densities – low, medium and high the degree of density refers to the actual mass per unit v olume of the resin material. Coating system – this refers to the process whereby the resin is deposited and secured on the substrate. There are three principle methods :- Scatter coating Dry dot printing Preformed Scatter coating Dry dot printing Perfor -med Scatter Coating Dry Dot Printing Performed

61. MAX BOND

62. Temperature - there is a limited range of temperatures that are effective for each type of resin. Too high temperature causes the resin to become viscous. If temperature is too low the resin is not sufficiently viscous to disburse into the top cloth. Generally resin melt temperatures range from 130⁰ – 160⁰ C. Time – The only time element of any value during the fusing process is when the top cloth and fusible are under pressure in the heating zone of the machine. This time cycle for a particular fusible is determined by : - Whether the fusible has a high of low melt resin If a light of heavy substrate is being used The nature of the top cloth being used Fusing process Pressure – When the resin is viscous pressure is applied to the top cloth and fusible assembly to ensure that :- Full contact is made between the top cloth and fusible Heat transfer is at the optimum level There is am even penetration of the viscous resin into the fibers of the top cloth.

63. FUSING MACHINE

64. Resin Type Fusing System Durability Relative Cost Steam Electric Wash Dry Clean Polyethylene (low density) Limited Good Suitable Limited Low Polyethylene (high density) Non recommended Good Good Good Medium Polyamides Good Good Limited Good High Polyester Good Good Limited Good Medium Plasticized C.A. Good Good Suitable Suitable Medium Phenolic Limited Good Limited Suitable Medium

65. The Principles Of Sewing Technology CHAPTER – 6

66. The Principles of Sewing Technology n every sector of the clothing industry, sewing operations are performed by a I great variety of machines, each of which has the capability for specific operations o a particular category of garments &/ or fabric. COMPONENTS OF SEWING

67. Needles Needles have been used for hand sewing since about 18000 BC & were originally made from ivory, bone, wood& horn. Today the steel needle in common use is a precision product which is a critical to the formation of stitches. Needle construction features:- Butt Shank Shoulder Blade Grooves Eye Point Tip Points & tips have a decisive bearing on the performance of the needle & the various types of combinations ca be divided into two groups :-

68. SIZE This is based on the diameter of the blade multiplied by 100. ex- needle with a blade diameter of 0.9 mm would be size Nm 90. Although needle lengths for each type of machine are standardised, longer needles are sometimes used to increase the clearance between the end of the needle bar & the work being sewn.

69. NEEDLE THROAT PLATE PRESSURE FOOT SEWING THREAD

70. Thread sizes

71. Thread types OTHER THREAD TYPES Mono- filament ‘Invisible’ Thread Embroidery Thread Elastic Thread Specialty – Lurex, Indigo Locked Filament Thread Glow in the Dark

72. Property/ type Sewability Durability Strength Suppleness Abrasion resistance Heat resistance Colour fastness Shrinkage resistance Elasticity Cotton High Moderate Moderate High Moderate Good High Moderate Good Soft Cotton High Moderate Moderate Good Moderate Good Good Low Good Glace Cotton High Moderate Moderate Good Good Good Good Moderate Good Mercerise -d Cotton High Moderate High Good High Moderate Good High Good Polyester Moderate High High Good High Moderate Good High Good Polyamid -e (nylon) Moderate High High Good High Good Good High Moderate Polyester Cotton High High High High Good Good Moderate High Good Properties of Sewing Threads

73. Feed system Feed systems relate to the combination of the needle, throat plate, presser foot & feed dogs which control the feed of the material from stitch to stitch whilst regulating the relationship between the piles being sewn. Drop feed Compound feed Unison feed

74. Differential feed system

75. F THE PRINCIPLES OF SEWING TECHNOLOGY STITCHES The basic classes in British Standard 3870 Part 1 are : Class 100 : These are chain stitches formed from a needle thread only. There are following three sub-classes : Class 101 : One Thread Basting Class 103 : One Thread Felling for Hemming Class 104 : One Thread Blind stitch for Hemming. Class 200 : Originally, hand stitches, these are mostly formed by single threads passed from one side of the material to the other with each successive penetration of the needle. There are following sub-classes : Class 202 : Saddle Stitch Class 205 : Prick Stitch Class 300 : These are also referred to as lock stitches because the top and under groups of threads are interlaced to form the stitch. There are following sub-classes : Class 301 : Two Threads Seams Multiple Plies Class 304 : Two Thread Zig Zag Stitch, A Stretch Lockstitch Class 306 : Two Thread Blind Stitch Class 315 : Two Thread “Three Step Zig Zag ”, A Stretch Lockstitch With More Stretch Stitch Type 301 : Two-thread Lock Stitch

76. THE PRINCIPLES OF SEWING TECHNOLOGY STITCHES Class 400 : Multi-thread chain stitch uses one or more needle threads and one or more looper thread stitch. Sub-classes are as following : Class 401 : Two Threads Seams Multiple Plies With Moderate Stretch Class 404 : Two Thread Topstitching or Seaming With Stretch Class 406 : There Threads “ Bottom Cover Stitch , A Greater Stretch Chain stitch Class 500 : These are known as over edge stitches because at least one group of threads covers the edge of the material. Following are the sub-classes : Class 501 : One Thread One Needle Over Edge Stitch For Serging / “Blanket Stitch” Class 502 : Two Thread One Needle Over Edge Stitch For Serging Class 503 : Two Thread Over Edge Stitch For Serging With Crossover On Edge Of The Fabric Class 504 : Multiple (Three Thread) Over Edge Chain Stitch Using Needle Threads And Looper Threads. This is used for assembling light weight knits and also for finishing hems. Five Thread Safety Stitch : When the 401 chain stitch and the 504 overlock stitch are sewn simultaneously they form what is called a five thread sfety stitch where the chain and overlock stiches are not connected. This stitch combination is widely used to stitch denim and cheaper grade trousers. Stitch Type 401 : Two-thread Chain Stitch

77. THE PRINCIPLES OF SEWING TECHNOLOGY STITCHES Mock Safety Stitch : It is formed from four thread where one or two of the overlock threads interlace with the needle thread. It is used for Garments of light weight materials or for linings. It cannot be pressed open due to its construction. Class 600 : There are many complex stitch formations in this class because the stitches can be formed from three to nine threads and uses up to four needles. Sub- calsses are as following : Class 602 : Four Thread Cover Stitch Or Seaming Knits Class 605 : Five Thread Cover Stitch Or Butt-seams Class 607 : Six Thread With Cover Stitch Or Butt-seams Class 700 : This is a single thread lock stitch similar to class 300, which has very limited applications because of its inherent weakness. Sub-class is as following : Class 701 : One Thread Typical Uses Lockstitch Tacking Class 800 : This class covers combinations of two or more stitch classes which are sewn simultaneously, like the five thread safety stitch. Different variations of this class are used for the assembly of swim wear. Flat Butted Seam

78. STITCHES – Classification

79. Class 100

80. Class 200

81. Class 300

82. Class 400

83. Class 500

84. Class 600

85. Application : Stitch type – 602 is used for attaching tape , lace, braid, elastic to knit fabric. Stitch type- 606 is used for making knitted undergarments. It is also used for decorative purpose. For making cover stitch, top stitching in the fabric edge this type is also used. Disadvantages : Stitches under this group are very complex and may need up to 9 threads.

86. SEAMS CLASSIFICATIONS

87. THE PRINCIPLES OF SEWING TECHNOLOGY SEAMS British Standard 3870:1991 classified seam constructions under eight headings : Class 1 – Superimposed This seam is constructed with a minimum of tw0o components and is the most widely used seam construction in this class. Among others, safety stitched and French seams are covered by SSa Plain seam on dress blouses , trousers SSe Enclosed seams at edges of collars and cuffs SSf Straps seam taping or staying SSk piped seam SSp Hem or single needle French seam SSq Sandwitch seams used to set waistbands SSz Plain seam, busted and top stitch on each side SSae French seam

88. SUPER- IMPOSED SEAM Defination: Applications:

89. THE PRINCIPLES OF SEWING TECHNOLOGY SEAMS Class 2 – Lapped Seam The best example of this seam is the lapped seam construction used for many denim articles and for certain types of blouses and shirts. LSa Seam for leather and synthetic LSc Side seam on betterment dress shirt LSd Set patch pocket lables etc LSf Yokes seams, men’s dress shirt

90. LAPPED FELLED SEAM Defination: Applications:

91. THE PRINCIPLES OF SEWING TECHNOLOGY SEAMS Class 3 – Bound Seam Used for constructing a decorative edge binding from self or other material such as Bsa Binding on edge with ribbon on leather BSc Binding on edge with bias binding setting sleeve placket BSf Binding an edge with fabric BSk Binding an edge with welt BSo Binding an edge with plain fabric

92. BOUND SEAM Defination: Applications:

93. THE PRINCIPLES OF SEWING TECHNOLOGY SEAMS Class 4 – Flat Seam In this class the seam edges do not overlap but are butted together. FSa Flat seams on sweat shirts and undergarments Class 5 – Decorative Seam This construction consists of a row or rows of stitches sewn through one or more piles of fabric. 1 Twin needle stitch with a needle 2 Multi-needle seam 3 Version of pleats 4 Pin tucks

94. FLAT SEAM Defination: Applications:

95. THE PRINCIPLES OF SEWING TECHNOLOGY SEAMS Class 6– Edge Neatening This could refer to the overlocked edge of a single ply or to the single turned overlocked hem of a blouse 1 Typical of the hem on a dress or a pair of trouser in a woven fabric. And then sewn up invisibly 2 A folding device is used in the construction of the hem of a skirt or a shirt lining 3 Method of folding an edge that is sometimes used on the button holes front of the shirt 4

96. EDGE NEATENING SEAM

97. DECORATIVE SEAM Defination: Applications:

98. THE PRINCIPLES OF SEWING TECHNOLOGY SEAMS Class 7– Applied These are called applied seams because they are used to apply a decorative material to an edge or seam, such as the lace edging on a nightdress sleeve. 1 A band of lace attached to the lower edge of a slip 2 Elastic braid on the edge of an undergarment 3 Inserted elastic on the leg of a swim suit 4 The additional item is self fabric plus interlining is another version of the buttonhole band on a shirt Class 8 Constructed from one ply of fabric only , this class is commonly used for belt loops. 1 Construction for belt themselves and two possible construction 2 3 Its quicker and cheaper construction and a special machine required to fold the fabric

99. CHAPTER – 7 THE PRINCIPLES OF PRESSING TECHNOLOGY

100. Pressing can be defined as a process which changes the geometric fiber structure of the area being pressed by the controlled application of heat, steam and pressure. In this sense, removing a crease from a garment involves the same change of fiber lay as that required to open a seam or to press a hem. The total process of pressing cab be divided into two groups of operations, under pressing and top pressing. Regardless of fabric, type of garment or the machinery and equipment employed, the majority of pressing operations have the same components, that is, steam, pressure, drying and time. It is no exaggeration to say that apart from cutting, the two cornerstones of garment quality are fusing and pressing process give the final finish and appearance. The importance of pressing should never be underestimated, because of its decisive contribution to garment quality and appeal. GARMENT TECHNOLOGY THE PRINCIPLES OF PRESSING TECHNOLOGY

101. Regardless of fabric, type of garment or the machinery and equipment employed, the majority of pressing operations have the same components. Steam : The purpose of using pressurized steam is to relax the fiber structure of the fabric and make it pliable enough to be molded by manipulation and pressure. Pressure : after steaming, manual or mechanical pressure is used to change the geometric fiber lay of the area being pressed. Drying : Following the application of steam and pressure, the area which has undergone these processes has to be dried and cooled. Time : the length of the time to which a component or garment is subjected to steaming, pressure and drying is a combined function of team temperature, garment construction and the physical properties of the fabric. THE PRINCIPLES OF PRESSIGN TECHNOLOGY COMPONENTS OF PRESSIGN Time Stea m Stea m Stea m

102. CHAPTER – 8 GARMENT FINISHING AND INSPECTION

103. Finishing and inspection are the two major operations in the manufacture of garments before they are bagged or boxed and delivered to the finish good warehouse. In most factories these two operations are performed by separate departments. Finishing covers all the operations required to complete the garment. This process includes attaching buttons, sewing, labels, cleaning, final touches, etc. Inspection is curtail for sample garments because apart from design considerations, there are a number of important factors involved. These includes fitting quality, measurements, viewing the garment, quality standards, working methods, etc. A great deal of responsibility is involved when a completed sample is handed over to the marketing department. By this action the designer has confirmed that the garment meets all the planned, relevant commercial and technical criteria, and above all that quality is precisely what is required. GARMENT TECHNOLOGY GARMENT FINISHING AND INSPECTION Garment Inspection Garment Finishing

104. PRESSING EQUIPEMENTS

105. STITCHING

106. SPECIFICATION SHEET ( GARMENT : HALF SLEEVE CASUAL SHIRT)

107. CHAPTER – 9 THE SAMPLE ROOM

108. A sample production contains a large number of standard operations, new operation are continually being developed and sometimes these necessitate a considerable amount of trial and error work. Producing sample is a sporadic operation which requires close and active direction by management in order to achieve the planned objectives. Unlike a regular production unit which works within a uniform structure, the sample room operates under different conditions. The operating conditions of the sample room are in sharp contrast to those prevailing in the factory. The personnel and responsibilities of a sample garment making is relied upon pattern maker, cutter, sewing machine operators, special machine operators, pressers, finishing, quality and training. The objectives of any production system is to produce efficiently the planned number of garments within the allocated time and at the required quality. Conditions and the scale of operation have a great influence on how to be maximized. GARMENT TECHNOLOGY THE SAMPLE ROOM

109. CHAPTER – 10 DESIGN DEPARTMENT OPERATION COMMUNICATION

110. The communication of information is an integral part of the day to day working routine in the design department. In all instances the accuracy of the information transmitted is important because there is no place for guesswork in an organization which wants to be efficient. Once the decision has been taken to develop a particular design, the design will remain only an idea unless it is translated into a garment. This means a designer has to prepare a design specification which is a detailed and precise presentation of the planned design and technical objectives of the garment. In a practical sense, the design specification is the primary planning and control tool for a sample garment. Without it the people involved with producing samples have no definite information as to what to do and how. In the majority of factories, the design department is not expected to provide accurate and finalized costing for sample garments, but to collate and present a reliable basis for the costing clerk to work from. DESIGN DEPARTMENT OPERATION COMMUNICATION

111. THANK YOU FOR WATCHING By NISTHA CHANDELA Two Year Diploma In Fashion Design Confirming To NSQF Level 6 Of NSDC Dezyne E’cole College