HAIR WAVING and their types, methods.pptx

Hair waving
wave set preparations
hot waving
cold waving
special methods of waving

1. HAIR WAVING Presented by: Mahewash Sana A. Pathan

2. Introduction: A method of permanent hair waving was practiced by early Egyptian women. The method was used to be winding a mesh on a cane stick, covering it with liquid mud & allowing it to bake dry in the sun. Over the years, the method has been modified to make the curling long lasting, better & faster. Early workers who pioneered in this area are Charles Nessler, E. Fredric & Eugene Suter who suggested chemicals to add in boiling water to achieve curly hair.

3. Principle of action: The structure of cortex gives the hair the definite form & it mainly consist of long parallel polypeptide chains connected by cross linkages. The chains are normally folded & in dry condition it cannot be stretched much, but in wet condition they can be stretched up to 100% or even more. Permanent waving consist of following stages:

4. Methods & preparations for waving: 1. Wave set preparations: At room temperature or with moderate heating, water can break hydrogen bond & salt linkages but not disulphide bridges. This can produce limited swelling & softening of the hairs. This helps to arrange the hair setting as desired & the setting is achieved by quick evaporation of water. Waves prepared by this technique are not long lasting as amide & disulphide linkages are not disrupted & new H-bond & salt bridges are loosened by atmospheric moisture & perspiration. The setting life can be enhanced by incorporating mucins in setting lotion, such as pectin, carageen, alginate, tragacanth, karaya gum or synthetic film former.

5. Formula Apple pectin 1 gm Citric acid 0.5 gm Rose water 98.5 gm Perfume q. s. Preservative q. s. Dissolve preservative & citric acid in water at high temperature. Add the pectin & stir vigorously to dissolve the pectin. Add perfume finally.

6. Formula Sodium carbonate 3 gm Alginic acid 6 gm Rose water 91 gm Perfume q. s. Preservative q. s. Dissolve preservative & sod. Carbonate in rose water. Add alginic acid with continuous stirring.

7. 2. Hot wave preparations: Some chemical agents are incorporated to achieve disruption of disulphide & amide linkages. Bases such as sodium & potassium hydroxides & carbonates, borax were preferred earlier. But they fuse with hair & form hard & brittle cuticle with keratin. Ammonia was used which evaporates while drying & leaves no residue, but it imparts unpleasant odour. Sodium or potassium sulphites are being incorporated in permanent waving preparation, successful use of cyclic organic sulphonates, such as glycol sulphite or butadiene sulphonate, has been reported. Incorporation of surfactants in the preparations promotes rapid wetting of the hair.

8. General procedure for hot waving is as follows: Hair is cleaned to remove greasy or dusty materials using shampoo. Hair is divided into several parts & wound around a suitable roller with little tension. A wet strip soaked with suitable solution is wound over the hair. The whole set is heated & dried by encasing in a suitable electrical heater or by other means. Apart from using electric heating or preheated rods, chemical heating can be also used in permanent waving. In this method, heat is generated by reacting exothermic materials after application of chemicals.

9. The heat is generated by any of the following process- Oxidation reduction Hydration Neutralization Chemical heating method was developed long back in England in 1923. quicklime was used with a moistening agent as ammonium sulphate, agar or ammonia. Afterwords several other chemicals have been developed eg. Aluminium & its chloride & sulphate, barium salts, ammonium salts, copper carbonate, copper nitrate, iron fillings, etc.

10. 3. Cold waving procedures: Permanent waving can be achieved by making new permanent cross linkages in hair without applying heat. Methods:- Chemical neutralization Atmospheric oxidation Special methods Alkali solution of substituted mercaptan, thioglycolic acid, reduces the disulphide linkages in the keratin. The pH should be above 7 to 10, preferably 9.2 to 9.5. The conc. of mercaptan is between 1-1.5%. The alkali vehicle should be volatile base. Thioglycolic acid (4-8%) , ammonia, mono-ethanolamine, iso-propanolamine, sodium or potassium hydroxide.

11. Process can be divided into following steps: Cleaning hair to remove dust, dirt. Whole hair is divided into parts & waving lotion is applied thoroughly & wound on rulers. Kept for about 20-40 min. Hair is rinsed with neutralizer & kept for 10 min. Hair is removed from curlers & once again washed with neutralizing solution. Finally, hair is rinsed off.

12. Formula Thioglycolic acid 6.62 gm Ammonia 2.11 gm Water 91.27 gm Perfume q. s. Prepare a simple solution.

13. Neutralizer: neutralizing lotions are used to decrease the swelling & oxidize the sulfhydryl groups back to disulphide linkages. Neutralizing lotion consist of- An weak acid such as acetic, citric, tartaric acid. An oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, sodium or potassium bromate, sodium perborate, amm . persulphate, sodium chlorate, etc. These agents are marketed as aqueous solutions or in powder form.

14. Atmospheric oxidation: Hair undergo reduction by using alkaline thioglycolic acid but the hair is kept for several hours in curlers & allowed for atmospheric oxidation. Then the hair is released from curlers & washed. As it is kept for 6 hrs, it can be used at home, but hair is treated with less reagents.

15. Special methods: Tepid warm air wave: thioglycolate treatment is done at slightly elevated temperature for faster & better result. Roller & pin perms: when curling is intended for short time, for few weeks, this method can be very useful. Hair can be wound over large diameter roller curlers or over ordinary hairpins to make curls of 1’’ in diameter, then the application of reducing agent, processing of hair & neutralization process are done as usual. Instant perms: this is same as chemically neutralized perms. Contact of reducing agent & the hair is done before winding. Processing time is made less by using more of free ammonia.