kashida of Kashmir embroidery presentation .pptx

I write about production place, making process, techniques, community everything about KASHIDA embroidery of Kashmir and also add some additional information like used fabric, used threads, stiches, colors, material etc. .

1. KASHIDA OF KASHMIR Submitted to – Shekhar Ma’am Submitted by – Simran Subject – Indian Textile Class – FD2nd year

2. INTRODUCTION Kashmiri embroidery or kashida is as colorful and as beautiful as Kashmir itself. Kashidakari is a style of embroidery native to Jammu and Kashmir. This art form reflects the scenic and natural beauty of the state.
Which came with the Persians, just as the motifs and style suggest much of Persian influence.
This craft, mostly done by men, is said to have descended from royal patronage .

3. HISTORY According to a historian from Srinagar, Dr. Abdul Ahad , weaving in Kashmir was known as early as third century B.C. It was flourished by Sulttan Zain- ul - Abidin , during fifteenth century, who identified, selected and brought the most talented craftsmen and weavers from Persia to revive the existing art.
The demand for shawls increased during the Mughal times. By the 18 th century they were being exported to Europe, where it became a fashionable wrap by the elite.
It is EmperorAkbar who is responsible for introducing a new type of shawl called the ‘ Doushala ’ meaning twin shawl.

4. FABRICS USED The commonly used fabrics are wool, tussah, pashmeena (wool derived from the Pashmeena goat), ruffle silk and cotton textiles.
An array of colors , which range from the darker shades to the lighter ones, is used in this work.
The base fabric used for embroidery is pashmina either in its natural colours of beige to off-white or dyed in dark colours of maroon, navy blue, dark green, peach and orange. Silk-pashmina or pashmina-wool blends are also used.

5. COLORS USED The most commonly used colors for Kashmir shawls are as follows along with the terms used for them in local language-
White [ sufed ]
Green [ zingari ]
Purple [ Uda ]
Blue [ Ferozi ]
Black [ Mushki ]
Crimson [ Gulnar Scarlet [ Kirmiz ]

6. THREADS USED Like the fabrics, ifferent types of threads are used in Kashida of Kashmir.
The most commonly used threads are :-
Wool
Silk
Cotton silk,i.e , yarns of synthetic fabrics.
Inexpensive artificial silk (rayon) thread is also used.

7. STITCHS USED The outstanding feature of this embroidery is the fact that it is made with single threads, resulting in a flat, formalized appearance to the design.
Stitches commonly used in the Kashmir embroidery are chain stitch, darning stitch, stem stitch and sometimes a knot stitch called doori . The stitches used in Kashida of Kashmir are very simple.
They are-
1-The satin stitch-used to cover large surfaces without pulling or puckering the cloth in any way.
2-The stem stitch-used only on boundary of the motif.
3-The chain stitch-used only on inferior pieces and never on an expensive piece of work.
4-The darning stitch.
5-The herring bone.

8. MOTIFS USED Majority of motifs are inspired by the nature. Now the designs have been added depending upon the fashion and trend.
The motifs used are mainly birds, trees, flowers, fruits.
A. The bird motifs used are: parrot, wood pecker, canary, magpie and kingfisher.
B. The floral motifs are: Iris, lotus, lily and saffron flower.
C. The fruit motifs: grapes, cherries, almonds and apple blossoms.
All the motifs are used in variation of size, shape and color .
Motifs of flowers, creepers and chinar leaves, mango etc. Are the most common ones.
Animal and human figures are not seen in the Kashmiri embroidery, because of the Muslim influence.

9. TYPES Jamwara :- An all over design entire surface is covered with embroidery. Jalidar :- An all over design wherein the entire surface is not covered. The design simply grows like a net. Khatraash :-Any kind of lines, diagonal or vertical, in the shawl body. Dordar khurd :- A broad border on the 2 ends of the shawl, with the minimum width of 3 inches. This is the broadest border to be found on the shawls. Beldar :- This is a narrower border minimum width is about one centimeter . Bootidar :- Any shawl with bootis on the ground. Babbar -when there are checks in the weave of the cloth. Chaarbadaam :- 4 paisleys on the four corners of the shawl. Atthara bootis :-18 motifs within the ground of the shawl. Hashidar :- Even narrower-having a minimum width of about 1 inch. Sozni :- Aform of extremely fine and delicate needlework done primarily on shawls – mainly pashmina and high quality raffal .

10. ARTICLES Earlier it was done on different types of shawls but now it has been widely used for dresses, sari, coat, jacket, kurta, muffler, veil, dupatta, turban, curtains, quilts, table linen, tea cozy covers, cushion covers, bed spreads, table mats, floor coverings.

11. ROHIT BAL Rohit Bal is an Indian fashion designer, known for his designs catering to both men and women. He began his career in 1986, founding Orchid Oversea Pvt. Ltd with his brother, and debuted his independent collection in 1990. Bal’s work includes collaborations with Khadi Gram Udyog and designing costumes for the popular show Kaun Banega Crorepati .
Bal opened a flagship store in Delhi, as well as stores in Mumbai, Bangalore, Ahmedabad, Kolkata and Chennai.
He is best known for his use of lotus and peacock motifs. He frequently uses rich fabrics like velvet, brocade and his designs are elaborate, inspired by Indian grandeur and royalty.
He has also partnered with Biba Apparels to create Biba by Rohit Bal.

12. ABOUT COLLECTION A collection entitled ‘ Gulbagh ’ which took inspiration from the Mughal Gardens of Kashmir, a backdrop of the Qutub Minar and live sufi music with the mesmerizing voice of music maestro Subha Mudgal , Rohit Bal showed us the meaning of pizzazz and grandeur. A glorious fairy tale set organised on Quli Khan’s tomb and designed by none other than ace designer Sumant Jayakrishnan , everyone present held their breaths as the Rohit Bal took them to a magical Mughal paradise.
No less than one hundred models showcased his stunning collection which featured rich Chanderi , Mulmul , Matka silk and velvet sprinkled with floral magic. Techniques like hand block printing with vegetable dyes and gold leaf embossing were used for the collection which included bridal lehengas , embroidered jackets, saris, anarkhalis , achkans, churidars , etc. With a modern twist. Peplum and kimono style blouses were some of the modern twists that the designer added to the royal collection.

13. INDIA FASHION WEEK 2014 [ GULBAGH COLLECTION ]