PERFUMES AND EU REGULATION CLASSIFICATION AND APPLICATION

PERFUMES-NOTES IN PERFUME-CLASSIFICATION-SOURCE OF FRAGRANCE-Manufacturing-EU REGULATION- APPLICATION

1. PERFUMES Presented By Sujitha Mary M pharm St Joseph College Of Pharmacy

2. CONTENTS Introduction Notes in perfume Classification Sources of Fragrances Manufacturing Process Basic composition Ingredients causing Allergic Reaction EU Regulation Adverse effects of perfumes

3. INTRODUCTION Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aromatic compounds, fixatives and solvents used to give the human body, animal, food objects and living spaces a pleasant scent. It is usually in liquid form and used to give a pleasant scent to a person's body. The Word “Perfume” comes from the latin word “Per fume” which means “through smoke”. Fragrances are among the oldest cosmetic products . Perfumes may have been first use Egyptians using scented oil at least 5000 years ago, letter on followed by the ancient Chinese,Hindus,Arabs,Greeks ,& Romans.

4. Basic Psychology of using Perfumes When we inhale the odorant molecules of a perfume, it not only creates the sensation of odor but also creates emotions and experiences associated with it. For instance, we focus on the pleasant childhood memories associated with the smell of vanilla. Stimulation of hippocampus causes secretion of growth hormone, sex hormone and neurotransmitters. Another reason behind perfume use is to increase ones attractiveness in the eyes of other people.

5. NOTES IN PERFUMES

6. NOTES IN PERFUME

7. CLASSIFICATION OF PERFUMES 9.Based on Concentration of Fragrance & duration of lasting. Class % of Aromatic compound Duration (hours) Parfume 20-30 6-8 Eau de Parfume 15-20 4-5 Eau de toilette 5-15 2-3 Eau de cologne 2-4 2 Eau fraiche 1-3 2

8. Based on Natural Sources Bright floral : Fragrance from one or several flowers. E.g. Lily,Rose,Jasmine,Estee lauders beautiful. Green : Fragrance from cut grass or leaf. E.g. calvin kleins Eternity. Aquatic : A clean smell reminiscent of ocean. E.g. David off cool water. Citrus : Has freshing effects. E.g. Faberge Bruf . Fruity : Aromas of fruits other than citrus. E.g. Ginestet Botrytis 10

9. SOURCES Plant Sources Animal Sources Synthetic Bark Flowers Blossom Fruits Resins Roots Seed Wood etc Civet Honeycomb Deer musk Ambergris hyraceum Calone Terpenes Argumen Aldehyde Amber Amyris Calone

10. MANUFACTURING PROCESS PERFUMES CAN BE MANUFACTURED BY FOLLOWING STEPS

11. COMPOSITION OF PERFUMES Perfumes are mainly composed of – 1.Essential oils: Derived from natural aromatic plant extracts and/or synthetic aromatic chemicals. E.g. limonene, linalool, geraniol , citral etc. 2. Fixatives: Natural or synthetic substances used to reduce the evaporation rate. E.g. benzyl benzoate, benzyl alcohol etc. 3. Solvents: The liquid in which the perfume oil is dissolved in is usually 98% ethanol and 2% water. Alcohol allows fragrance to spread along with it and does not permit microbial growth in the perfume. 13

12. INGREDIENTS CAUSING ALLERGIC REACTION INGERDIENYS USE SIDE EFFECT ACETONE SOLVENT INHALATION CAUSE DRYNESS OF MOUTH ETHYL ACETATE SOLVENT DEFATTING EFFECT ON SKIN MAY CAUSE DRYING BENZYL ALCOHOL FIXAYIVE SKIN IRRITATION LIKE BLISTERS , PAIN BEZYL BENZOANTE FIXATIVE SWEET BLASMIC ODOR SKIN IRRITATION LIKE BLISTERS ,ITCHING,REDNESS SANDALWOOD FRAGRANCE HYPERSENSITIVITY

13. EU REGULATION( PERFUME ALLERGENS) In 1999, a set of 26 fragrance allergens with a well- recognised potential to cause allergy had been idenfentified , for which information should be provided to consumers about their presence in cosmetic products. On this basis, the Cosmetics directive required that the presence any of these 26 substances be indicated in the list of ingredients when its concentration exceeds 0.001 % in leave-on products and 0.01 % in rinse-off products. The SCCS opinion lists a number of individual substances and natural extracts considered as ‘established contact allergens in humans, ‘established contact allergens in animals’ or ‘likely contact allergens by combination of evidence’. The selection is made based on a comprehensive screen of available clinical and animal data, paired with computer-based SAR modeling where appropriate. From the few population-based studies, it can be estimated that the frequency of contact allergy to fragrance ingredients in the general population in Europe is 1-3%.

14. Why fragrance substances can be classified as skin allergens? SCCS Opinion The present opinion by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) updates a 1999 opinion by the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products (SCCNFP) using a systematic and critical review of the scientific literature to identify fragrance allergens, including natural extracts, relevant to consumers. The evidence was evaluated according to clearly defined criteria and the substances were then categorized as (i) established contact allergens (in humans or animals), (ii) likely contact allergens or (iii) possible contact allergens .

15. Established in Human(major) Synthetic Fragrances AMYL CINNAMAL* AMYL CINNAMYL ALCOHOL AMYL SALICYLATE trans-ANETHOLE ANISE ALCOHOL* BENZALDEHYDE BENZYL ALCOHOL* BENZYL BENZOATE* BENZYL CINNAMATE* BENZYL SALICYLATE* BUTYLPHENYL METHYLPROPIONAL Natural fragrances EVERNIA FURFURACEA EXTRACT* * EVERNIA PRUNASTRI EXTRACT* JASMINUM GRANDIFLORUM / OFFICINALE

16. Established in Animals Synthetic fragrances. Allyl phenoxyacetate p- tert . - Butyldihydrocinnamaldehyde CYCLAMEN ALDEHYDE Dibenzyl ether 2,3-DIHYDRO-2,2,6- TRIMETHYLBENZALDEHYDE trans-2-Hexenal 2-Hexylidene cyclopentanone HEXYL SALICYLATE p-Isobutyl-α-methyl hydrocinnamaldehdye 21 Natural Jasminum Sambac Flower CERA / Extract / Water

17. APPLICATION USED In Industrialised Society Househould Purpose Personsal Product Agriculture Product Synthetic Detergent Perfumed Disinfectant Perfumed Candles Cosmetic Preparations

18. REFERENCE Poucher ’ s Perfume ,Cosmetics & Soap ,10th Edition ,Edited by Hildy Butler. http://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/ opinions_layman /perfume-allergies/en/about- perfume-allergies.htm#29 23

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