PMKVY Sewing Machine Operator Course

PMKVY Sewing Machine Operator Course,
प्रधान मंत्री कौशल विकास योजना

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4. Sewing
is thecraftof attaching objects usingstitchesmade with aneedleandthread. Sewing is one
of the oldest of thetextile arts. For thousands of years, all sewing was done by hand. But now it’s
done by different types of machines.
Sewing is the activity of Making or Mending cloths or other things with the help of needle and thread.Sewing is the activity of Making or Mending cloths or other things with the help of needle and thread.
A sewing machine A sewing machine
is use to stitch the fabric and other materials together with thread.is use to stitch the fabric and other materials together with thread.(A(ASewing Sewing
machine is a machine used to stitch the fabric and other material with the help of needle and machine is a machine used to stitch the fabric and other material with the help of needle and thread) thread) machine is a machine used to stitch the fabric and other material with the help of needle and machine is a machine used to stitch the fabric and other material with the help of needle and thread) thread)
In In 1790 1790 Thomas Thomas saint saint invented firstinvented firstSewing machine Sewing machine but he did not but he did not successfully successfully advertise and market advertise and market
his Invention. his Invention.
After that After that in in 1846 1846 Alias Howe Alias Howe invent first invent first American American sewing machine. It was using for fixing cloths At a sewing machine. It was using for fixing cloths At a
factory use. It make sewing much easier and faster. It use to be done by hand.factory use. It make sewing much easier and faster. It use to be done by hand.
There is different type of machines used in garment industry for different purpose.There is different type of machines used in garment industry for different purpose.
WellWell--selected machine is essential for achieving good result. It should be used correctly in accordance selected machine is essential for achieving good result. It should be used correctly in accordance
with the job requirements.with the job requirements.

7. Stitch is a single movement of needle and thread into and out of the cloth. (Stitch is a single turn or Stitch is a single movement of needle and thread into and out of the cloth. (Stitch is a single turn or
loop of thread.) Stitches are classified based on structure and stitch formation.loop of thread.) Stitches are classified based on structure and stitch formation.
CLASS CLASS --100 100 CHAIN STITCHCHAIN STITCH
CLASS CLASS --200 200 HAND STITCHHAND STITCH
CLASS CLASS --300 300 LOCK STITCHLOCK STITCHCLASS CLASS --300 300 LOCK STITCHLOCK STITCH
CLASS CLASS --400 400 MULTY THREAD CHAIN STITCHMULTY THREAD CHAIN STITCH
CLASS CLASS --500 500 OVER EDGE CHAIN STITCHOVER EDGE CHAIN STITCH
CLASS CLASS --600 600 COVERING CHAIN STITCHCOVERING CHAIN STITCH

8. Chain stitches are produced by one or more needle threads and are characterized by interloping. One
needle thread is passed through the fabric, form needle loop and is secured by the next loop formed
by the same thread.
Chain stitch is elastic and thicker than lockstitch and can easily be ravelled,
Particular care is required to prevent runback from the last stitch,
Used for temporary stitching or for Blind stitching
Applications: Applications:
Hemming, Belt Loops,

9. This type is originated from hand stitches. It is produced from a single thread. This thread is passed
through the fabric from one side to another and the stitch is secured by the single line of thread
passing in and out of the garment.
Applications:
Stitching of costly dresses, jackets, sample garments, etc

10. This type of stitches is produced with two or more groups of threads. Here the two threads are joined
by interlacing. Loops of one group are passed through the material and are secured by the thread of
second group. One group is referred as needle thread and other as bobbin thread. This stitch has
enough strength and same appearance on both sides.
Applications:
Underwear, most types of apparels, decorative purposes.
Types of Lock Stitches: Types of Lock Stitches:
Type 301, 304, 308 and 309

11. This class is formed with two or more groups of threads. Loops of one group of thread are passed
through the material and are secured by interlacing and interloping with loops of another group. Here
on group is called needle thread and another group lopper thread. It has an appearance of lock stitch
on the top but has a double chain effect formed by a lopper thread on the under-side.
Applications: Used for setting elastic in waist bands, decorative stitching on belts.

12. The stitch type in this class is formed with one or more groups of threads. Here at least one group of
thread passes around the edge of material. So no thread from the fabric can come out. The most
frequently used stitch of this type have one or two needle threads and one or two looper threads and
thus forms a narrow band of stitching along the edge of the fabric.
Applications:
Edge neatening of knitted fabrics, where extensibility of stitches in important. Polo tees, sports wear,
dance wear garments.

13. This type of stitches is generally produced with three groups of threads. Threads of two groups can be
seen from either side. The first group of thread is called needle thread, second is called top cover
thread and the third is called bottom cover thread. The stitches of this class are very complex and up
to 9 threads can be used in producing these stitches.
Applications:-Knits, Lingerie, binding elastics, decoration, etc.

14. In sewing, seam is the join Where to or more layers of fabric and material are held together with In sewing, seam is the join Where to or more layers of fabric and material are held together with
stitches. Seam is modern mass produced apparel , footwear, house hold textile, and sporting goods stitches. Seam is modern mass produced apparel , footwear, house hold textile, and sporting goods
are sewn by industrial sewing machines. In clothing construction seams are classified by there type are sewn by industrial sewing machines. In clothing construction seams are classified by there type
and position in the garment. (Plain, bounded, flat) Seams are finished with a variety of techniques to and position in the garment. (Plain, bounded, flat) Seams are finished with a variety of techniques to
prevent ravelling of raw fabric edges and to neaten the inside of fabric.prevent ravelling of raw fabric edges and to neaten the inside of fabric.

15. Definition: परतदार
A category of seams in which two or more piles of fabric are overlaid, one on the top of other with
raw edges aligned and sewn together at the designated distance from the raw edges, with one or
more rows of stitch.
Applications:
Side seams of skirt, in seams of jeans, dress stacks, finishing belt ends, attaching elastic to waistline,
ends of waist bands on jeans, collars or cuffs, seamed and stitched. BASIC SEAM FRENCH SEAM PIPE SEAM

16. Definition: A category of seams in which two or more piles of fabric are overlapped with raw edges
exposed or the seam allowance is folded under and stitched with one or more rows of stitching.
Applications:
Main seaming of denim jackets, jeans, and overalls. Fabrics that will not ravel, unlined garments, side
seams of shirts, joining lace to another fabric, attaching patch pockets, decorative finish
Ek¨Mdj

17. Definition:
A bound seam class is formed by sewing one piece of fabric or binding as it encompasses the edge of
one or more pieces of fabric.
Applications:
Finishing necklines, sleeves hems, inside waistbands of trousers and pants, finishing seams on unlined
jackets and coats, adding interest as a design or decorative detail, finishing raw edges, continuing the
motif design of lace.

18. Definition:
A flat seam is constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet precisely at their edges
Applications:
Widely use in under garments

19. Definition:
This seam is made using machines with zigzag capability. The zigzag stitch length (coverage) must be
adjusted to accommodate and prevent fabric from raveling. The more the fabric ravels, the closer
together the stitches need to be (tighter or shorter stitch length).
Applications:
Adding a design detail, cording, piping, tucking, welting, box or inverted pleating, decorative stitching,
etc. etc.

20. Definition:
A category of seam constructed with one or two plies of fabric used to finish the edge of a garment or
item. There are three finishing types within the classification.
1. Secures a folded edge to the shell fabric by stitching, either on the face or back.
2. Stitching is used at the edge or to cover the raw edges, and may or may not be folded.
Applications:
Bottom and side hems of shirts, trousers, raw edges of apparels, etc.

21. Spool Pin
Hand wheel
Bobbin Winder
Thread Take Up
Thread Guide
Thread Tension Dial
NeedleNeedle
Needle Plate
Feed Dog
Presser Foot Lifter
Presser Foot
Bobbin
Bobbin Case
Racer Hook
Foot Pedal
Reverse Lever

22. Racer Hook
Bobbin, Bobbin Case
Thread Tension Dial
Presser
Foot
Bobbin Winder
Needle Plate

23. A sewing needle is a specialized needle for use in a sewing machine.

24. A sewing machine needle consist of : -Shank
-Clamped by the sewing machine's needle holder
Shoulder-Where the thick shank tapers down to the shaft.
Shaft-A length suitable for driving the eye and thread through the
material and down to the bobbin.
Groove-Cut in the back of the shaft to release the thread into a Groove-Cut in the back of the shaft to release the thread into a
loop that aids the hook or shuttle to pick up the thread.
Scarf -provides extra room for the hook or shuttle to pass close by.
Eye-carries the thread.
Tip(point)-Penetrates the material either parting the thread or
cutting a hole in the fabric.

25. Needle Legend (Types)
B=
Ball Point
, E=
Embroidery
, J=
Jeans Sharp,
L=
Leather,
MT=
Metalfil/Metallica,
S=
Sharp,ST=
Stretch,
U=
Universal
Fabric Type Thread To Be Use NeedleSize
Very Light-Sheer woven's Polyester, Cotton, and Silk S 9/65
Batiste, Chiffon, Lace, Crepe d' Chine,
Georgette, Netting, Organdy, Voile, and SilkGeorgette, Netting, Organdy, Voile, and Silk
Light Weight Woven’s Polyester, Cotton, and Silk S 9/65,
11/70
Batiste, Broadcloth, Calico, Challis, Chambray,
Crepe, Eyelet, Gingham, Lawn, Handkerchief Linen,
Microfiber-Peach skin,Rayon, Rip stop Nylon,
Satin, Muslin, and Silk

26. Trimmer

28. It also Called Domestic It also Called Domestic Machine. It Machine. It is run by hand or foot and may also converted to is run by hand or foot and may also converted to
electrical power machine.electrical power machine.

29. This types of machines usually Used in industries.This types of machines usually Used in industries.
It Called Industrial Sewing Machine.It Called Industrial Sewing Machine.
It has automaticIt has automatic--lubrication and used for high production & quality.lubrication and used for high production & quality.

30. This This machine is mostly used machine is mostly used for hemming, needle thread interconnect with lopper thread for hemming, needle thread interconnect with lopper thread
Upper and lower lopper works together with needle. Upper and lower lopper works together with needle.

31. This machine This machine is mostly is mostly used used in knitted garmentsin knitted garments. Use to attach the different parts of . Use to attach the different parts of
garments.garments.

32. This types of machines used for making fancy stitch and This types of machines used for making fancy stitch and different different kind kind of of embroidery embroidery
stitchesstitches..

33. This machine This machine isisuse to attach the button on garments.use to attach the button on garments.

34. This this is used to This this is used to make the button hole on the make the button hole on the garments.garments.

35. Pocket is a bag or envelop attached with the garment to hold small items. (
In Shirt, T-shirt,
pants)
In older usage, a pocket was a separate small bag or pouch. Different types and
fashionable pocket used in the garments.
Patch Pocket Cut Pocket Welt Pocket

37. A placket is an opening in the upper part of T-Shirt, shirt, or at the opening of sleeve of the
garment, placket are almost used to allow clothing to be put on or removed easily,
but sometimes used purely as a design element.

38. Collar is a part of shirt, TCollar is a part of shirt, T--shirt around the neck by made of separate piece of fabric. Often shirt around the neck by made of separate piece of fabric. Often
fold and fold and rolerole--over.over.

39. DRAFT IS A DIAGRAM OR SKETCH, OF A GARMENT WITH ALL MEASURMENT WE CAN MAKE DRAFT IS A DIAGRAM OR SKETCH, OF A GARMENT WITH ALL MEASURMENT WE CAN MAKE
IT ON PAPER OR CARDBOARD, IN GARMENT INDUSTRY WE MAKE IT ON CARDBOARD ( IT ON PAPER OR CARDBOARD, IN GARMENT INDUSTRY WE MAKE IT ON CARDBOARD (
CALLED PATTERN)CALLED PATTERN)
ADVANTAGE OF PATTERN ADVANTAGE OF PATTERN
FOR BIGGNERSFOR BIGGNERS
HELPFUL FOR DESIGNER GARMENTS HELPFUL FOR DESIGNER GARMENTS HELPFUL FOR DESIGNER GARMENTS HELPFUL FOR DESIGNER GARMENTS
LARGE PRODUCTIONLARGE PRODUCTION
SCIENTIFIC PRODUCTION PLANINGSCIENTIFIC PRODUCTION PLANING
LESS WAISTAGE OF FABRICLESS WAISTAGE OF FABRIC
USEFULL FOR GRADING SYSTEM USEFULL FOR GRADING SYSTEM

40. 0-1 = Full Length
0-2 = ¼ of Round chest
2-3 = ¼ of Round chest (Chest Line)
1-4 = ¼ of Bottom & square up
0-5 & 2-6 = ½ shoulder
5-6 = Shoulder Drop 1CM
0-7 = Neck Width0-7 = Neck Width
0-8 = Back neck depth
0-9 = Front Neck Depth
X is the mid Point of armhole
Shape 6X3 For arm Hole curve
Cutting Line = 8-7-6-X-3-4-1

41. 0-1 = Sleeve Length
0-2 = ¼ of Round armhole
2-3 = ¼ of Round chest (Draw straight Line)
0-3 = ½ of armhole
1-4 = sleeve opening (join 4-3)
3-5 = ¼ of 0-3
5-6 = ½ of 0-55-6 = ½ of 0-5
6-6.1 = ½ cm upward, 5-5.1 = ½ cm downward
Join 0,6.1,5.1,3 for armhole curve
Cutting line 1-4-3-5.5-6.1

42. 0-1 = Full Length
0-2 = ¼ of Round chest
2-3 = ¼ of Round chest (Chest Line)
0-5 & 2-6 = ½ shoulder
5-6 = Shoulder Drop
0-7 = Neck Width
0-9 = Front Neck Depth0-9 = Front Neck Depth
X is the mid Point of armhole
X-X1 = 1 CM inside
Shape 3X3 For arm Hole curve
0-10 = Waist length
10-11 = ¼ of waist
0-12 = Hip length
12-13 = ¼ of round hip
1-4 = ¼ of Bottom
Cutting Line = 9-7-6-X1-3-11-13-4-1

43. 0-1 = Sleeve Length
0-2 = ¼ of chest
2-3 = ¼ of Round chest (Chest Line)
1-4 = ½ of sleeve opening
Join 3-4 under arm line
X is the mid point of 0-3
Take X-X1 2 cm upTake X-X1 2 cm up
Shape 0-X-3 front arm hole curve
Shape 0-X1-3 front armhole curve