SEAMS and Seam Finishes.ppt by Devi S Kawol, Senior Lecturer at the Mauritius Insitute of Education

This PPT document develops your knowledge on Seams and Seam Finishes. This resource is meant for secondary school Design & Textiles educators and Design & Textiles secondary school students.

1. Seams and
Seam
finishes
Facilitator:
Devi S KAWOL
PGCE Food & Textiles
Studies

2. V. KAWOL 2
Definition: A seam is a method of joining
two or more layers of material together
•A seam is the basic structural element of a
garment.
•It must be formed with care -neat and secure.
•Perfect seams are the most obvious sign of a
well-made garment.
•It is important that the most suitable method of
seaming is chosen in each case.
•Seams are either inconspicuous or conspicuous

3. V. KAWOL 3
General rules for working seams
•Thread used to be appropriate
•Width of seam to be appropriate
•If same type of seam is done in a garment, all
seams preferably need to be of similar widths
•Machine should be adjusted correctly to fabric
e.g. stitch length
•Tension should be controlled to avoid puckering
•Strength of seam depends on firmness of
stitching

4. V. KAWOL 4
TYPES OF SEAM
(1) Plain Seam
•Inconspicuous seam
•Suitable for all outergarments
•Suitable for both straight or curved seams
•Require a seam finish
seam pressed open seam pressed closed

5. V. KAWOL 5
Seam Finish
•a way of treating or enclosing the raw edges of seam
allowance so they are more durable and do not ravel -
Strengthen the seams and/or prevent it from fraying
•Make the seam edge look neater.
•Help the seam to withstand repeated washings and
wearing
•Prevents knitted fabric from curling
•Lends a couture finish and improved appearance
•Should not add bulk
•Should not show an obvious imprint on R.S of garment
after it is pressed.

6. V. KAWOL 6
Seam pressed opened and neatened with:
a) Pinking
•Edge trimmed with
pinking shears
•Quick and easy finish
that prevent raveling and
curling
•For firmly woven fabrics
•Used in lined jackets
•However, does not
prevent fraying

7. V. KAWOL 7
b) Edge stitching
•Turned and stitched
•For light to medium weight woven
fabrics
•Gives a neat, tailored finish
•Suitable for most garments
c) Zigzag/ 3-step zigzag/ Overlock
•Effective finish for fabric that ravel,
prevent raveling
•Very quick method for light to
medium weight fabrics
•Suitable for knits where seam ‘gives’
(stretches) with the fabric

8. V. KAWOL 8
d) Overcasting
•Used when machine finish is
impractical or when hand
finish is preferred
•For heavy weight fabrics that
do not fray easily
•Suitable for curves
e) Loop Stitch
•Used when machine finish is
impractical or when hand
finish is preferred
•For fabrics that do not fray
•May be used on most fabrics
•Suitable for waist or armhole
seams, especially for curved
seams

9. V. KAWOL 9
Depth of turning:
normally vary according to:
•Texture of fabric
•Fraying qualities of fabric
•Position of seam in the garment
•Shape of seam
•Method of neatening planned

10. V. KAWOL 10
(2) Double-stitched Seam
•Conspicuous, topstitched,
reversible seam
•Seam provide a decorative
touch while holding seam
allowances flat
•Does not unravel
•Sturdy and durable, standing
up to active wear and repeated
washings
•For casual, sporty clothes –
popular in menswear,
children’s play clothes, denim
jeans, reversible garments.

11. V. KAWOL 11
(3) Overlaid Seam
•Conspicuous
•Used for joining difficult shaped
pieces e.g. shaped seams in
underwear, join at a yoke
•Suitable for panel seams, cross
seams
•Used on children’s wear, lingerie,
blouses
•Raw edges may be neatened with
overcasting, loopstitch,
zigzag/overlock
•Quite strong seam
•Narrow part of garment is always
laid over the fuller part.

12. V. KAWOL 12
Choice of seam
depends on:
1.Fabric being used (esp. weight of fabric e.g. nylon v/s
tweed)
2.Garment being made (type & purpose of garment e.g.
jeans v/s cotton dress)
3.Position of seam in the garment (e.g. side seam of a
nylon slip v/s waist seam of a gathered skirt dress)
4.Shape of seam (straight or curved)
5.Whether the garment is to be dry-cleaned or
laundered