Sebumeter and Corneometer Principle and Working.pptx

The content is for the Educational purpose for the pharmacy and cosmetic students.

1. Dr. R. R. Thenge Assistant Professor, Department of Pharmaceutics, Dr. Rajendra Gode College of Pharmacy, Malkapur Principles of Cosmetics Evaluation

2. Principles of Cosmetics Evaluation The science of cosmetics production is forever changing. It is generally accepted that most new changes in the production of cosmetics contribute to their improvement but the only way to really know is via lab testing, either the newly-introduced raw materials or the more familiar finished products. Even if no changes were made to ingredients or production processes, you expect all of your cosmetics to be manufactured at the highest quality standards - standards meant to avoid such issues as bacterial contamination, skin irritation, or even the failure to perform their basic function. Therefore, to ensure the quality of cosmetic several experimental approaches like sensorial approach, instrumental approach .

3. Sensory Evaluation is a scientific discipline used to evoke measure, analyze and interpret those responses to products, which are perceived by our senses . Sensory testing is done by evaluating cosmetic products on the basis of human senses such as sight, smell and touch. Sensory Evaluations of the products are performed by qualified panelists, as per ASTM (American Society of Testing and Materials) guidelines. Experts at can help determine, if your product has acceptable sensory attributes that influences Consumer purchase decisions and build Brand loyalty. Sensorial approach

4. Sensorial evaluation is carried out by accessing various characteristics such as: Skin Feel Spreadability Tackiness/greasiness / stickiness After-feel Fragrance acceptance For a hair product , performance evaluations  are carried out by assessing various characteristics such as: Hair Combability Detangling Static Gloss / Shine Bounce

5. a. Effective testing: It is concerned with obtaining “ objective facts” about the products which could range from basic discrimination testing to descriptive profiling . It requires a trained panel. b. Affective testing: Also known as “ consumer testing ” and deals with obtaining subjective data. It employs a panel of untrained personnel. c. Perception: It involves the biochemical and psychological theories related to animal and human sensations which help to explain why certain characteristics are preferred over others. Sensorial analysis consists of three subsections .

6. Instrumental methods are precise and sensitive , but even so it can be difficult to measure the whole use of a product , which is why several instrumental methods testing different components of a product are used, and combined with sensory testing or market research. The importance of proving cosmetic efficacy by method instrumental measurement established newer study the increasing development of biophysical noninvasive methods today allows to measure key physiological properties of the skin, like moisturization , barrier function, mechanical properties, micro-circulation, and skincolor and even to characterize its topography . Skin maintenance, skin improvements, skin recovery can be evaluated during time, by registering all variations induced by a product application or by performing an aesthetic treatment. Instrumental Methods

7. Role of Sebum for skin and Hair Sebum is a complex and variable mixture of lipids like glycerides , free fatty acids, wax esters, squalene , cholesterol esters, and cholesterol . Sebum has many purposes. It keeps too much water from getting into your body , and it prevents from losing too much water through skin it helps to protect your scalp and hair, to keep them healthy and feeling moisturized .  A build-up of sebum can make the hair look greasy, dull and oily rather than looking healthy, shiny and voluminous. Then there’s the risk of scalp and hair damage . Dandruff-causing microbe  Malassezia globosa  is one organism that has evolved to live in sebum. Damage your scalp and hair , experience itching and some degree of dandruff. Hence measurement of natural presence of sebum on human skin particularly facial skin is a matter of current interest amongst dermatologists and pharmaceutical and cosmetic manufacturers . SEBUMETER

8. sebumeter, which when placed on the skin displays a qualitative or quantitative reading of skin oiliness . Invented by Antoine and patented in 1992. Sebumeter are measuring the amount of sebum base on the principle that when sebum is deposited on a translucent element , such as a frosted glass or plastic plate or strip, the element becomes increasingly transparent (greater the amount of sebum applied, the greater the transparency produced) Light passing through this sebum covered translucent element is then measured using photoelectric receiver . Measuring Principle

9. Construction of sebumeter probe (Cassette) The Sebumeter- cassette contains a synthetic tape, 0.1 mm thick. The measuring head of the cassette exposes a 64 mm2 section of the tape, which is transported forward by a trigger at the side of the cassette for the next measurement. The measuring time of 30 seconds is controlled by a clock set in the device. Sebum is then determined as explained in the measurement principle above. The instrument has an accuracy of ± 5%. The reading of sebum may be displayed as a number or as type of skin i.e. dry; dry/ normal; normal; normal/oily; oily.

10. The measurement is based on the principle of grease spot photometry. The measuring head of the cassette with its special tape is placed on the skin. It is then inserted into a slot of the device, where the transparency is me asured by a light source passing through the tape. A photocell measures the transparency. A microprocessor calculates the result, which is shown on the display in mg sebum/cm2 of the skin. Mechanism of sebum measurement by sebumeter

11. a.Sebutape adhesive patches: In which present adhesive patches or film of acrylic microporous polymeric film sebum-rich follicle. This instrument safe to use and it measure sebum content of individual. b. Sebufix present Sebum collector foil without any glue. This instrument safe to use, quick and no occlusion effects since no glue is used and thus instrument avoids false positive results due to sweating. These types of instrument give live images of sebum flow can be stored with software provide. Types of sebumeter

12. c. Skin analyzer: In skin analyzer special tape in a sebumeter cassette and Corneometer probe. In which consist Corneometer plus sebumeter plus skin pH meter. These types of instrument use evaluation of all type of skin sebum and very easy to use. d. Skin Diagnostic SD 27: like skin analyzer it also consists special tape in a sebumeter cassette and Corneometer probe as compare to other type of sebumeter it gives quick results and these instruments also portable because it consists battery. Types of sebumeter

13. It allows quick and very easy measurements to avoid errors. A zero calibration before each measurement provides highest accuracy. The special tape of this instrument only measure or react with sebum independent of the water content. Easy to handle. Advantages

14. To classify skin type as dry, normal and oily in an objective manner. To prescribe pharmaceuticals/ cosmetics suitable to the patient’s skin type to increase efficacy and minimize side effects . Pre-placement examination for correct analysis of skin type in the field of occupational medicine e.g. person of dry skin type may not suitable to work in chemical industry involving use of acid and alkalis. To make early diagnosis of senile asteatosis (dermatitis cause by dry skin) To measure skin-cleaning effects of soaps. To do preliminary screening and follow up of patients with hyper-androgenic states. Applications

15. To study the endocrine control of sebaceous follicle in women for assessing hormonal ageing To study the correlation between ‘ bad hair days ’ (days during which most women find their hair difficult to manage), sebum secretion, and menstrual cycle. To study sebo suppressive effects of certain anti- acne medications like retinoic acid in treatment of acne vulgaris . To study the sebaceous gland activity in diabetics, in whom, the activity of the glands is decreased. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hunx7RAmK-E Applications

16. Water in skin Water is important for the normal functioning of healthy skin . The water contain in skin is most essential for outer layer of skin . Loss of water from skin must be regulated, a function dependent on the complex nature of stratum Corneum . Presences of water in stratum Corneum depends on two parameters such as 1. The presence of natural moisturizing factor. 2. The stratum Corneum consist intercellular lipids orderly arranged to form barrier to transdermal water loss(TEWL). The moisture content of the stratum Corneum influences a number of skin characteristics including mechanical properties and barrier function hence This has made hydration measurement one of the most important and commonly used measurements. CORNEOMETER

17. General introduction of Corneometer The Corneometer is the world's best-selling hydration measurement device to which other hydration instrumentation is always assessed and compared. The high quality electronics in the probe provid e not only temperature stability but also exclude interference in the measurement from fluctuations in the base capacity and power supply. The probe head contains a spring to ensure constant pressure on the skin enabling exact and reproducible results. The low weight of the probe and small measurement area (49mm) allow for easy measurements on all body sites. CORNEOMETER

18. The Measuring Principle The Corneometer measurement is based on capacitance measurement of a dielectric medium it uses fringing field capacitance sensors to measure the dielectric constant of the skin. The dielectric constant of skin will change with water content . This allows for any changes in skin hydration to be measured by the precision measuring capacitor. These changes in water content of the stratum Corneum are converted into arbitrary units of hydration . On the probe head there is a fine piece of glass to ensure that only the capacitance changes due to water content are identified . Even small changes in water can be detected. CORNEOMETER

19. The measurement time is short at only 1 second minimizing occlusion effects. The depth of the measurement is 10-20µm , the stratum Corneum , ensuring that deeper skin layers do not influence the measurement. CORNEOMETER

20. Mechanism of measuring the dielectric constant by Corneometer The corneometer contains two electrodes with different electrical charges that form an electromagnetic field that determines the dielectricity of the stratum Corneum . The depth of measurement is low (the first 10-20 µm of the stratum Corneum ) due to the construction of the measuring head. The range of variation of the values of skin hydration degree is between 0-130 arbitrary units (AU). In standard working conditions (T°= 20-22°C, humidity 40-60%), the variations of the values of skin hydration degree for the middle area of the front side of the forearm. CORNEOMETER

21. Skin hydration degree and skin condition Mechanism of Corneometer CORNEOMETER Skin hydration degree Skin condition under 30 AU Very dry between 30 and 45 AU Dry 45 AU Sufficiently hydrated.

22. Advantages Substances on the skin (e.g. salts or residues of topical applied products) have only minimal influence due to capacitance measurement. The modern, high quality electronics of the probe allow a very quick measurement (1 s). The measurement depth is very small (10-20 µm of the Stratum Corneum ) to avoid the influence of water in deeper skin layers. The probe is small and lightweight for easy handling and measurement on all body sites. The spring in the probe head ensures constant pressure on the skin, enabling exact, reproducible measurements which do not influence the skin. Worldwide established as Corneometer with a broad range of studies. CORNEOMETER

23. Application Ideal Instrument for formulation, claim support and efficacy testing of moisturizers . It is used for objective clinical trials and their monitoring . It gives information on the course of cosmetic treatments. Demonstrative to alert people to specific occupational skin hazards. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUkPz51MoaM CORNEOMETER

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