TEXTILE FINISHES

textile finishes related to HOTEL MANAGEMENT, FASHION AND TEXTILE INDUSTRY

1. TEXTILE FINISHES
THE JOURNEY OF TEXTILE TO MEET PERFECTION
BY: KIRTI PATEL ( BHM II)
&
DEEPAK KUMAR (BBA HM II)
TO: Mrs. ROOPALI DAME

2. CONTENT
INTRODUCTION
WHAT IS A FINISH?
ITS NEED/ROLE
CLASSIFICATION
EXPLANATION IN DEPTH
HOW IT’S DONE
CONCLUSION

3. INTRODUCTION
We all understand the role of textiles in our daily life. Every soul born
needs and understands the use of textiles and that’s how important it
is. To make these fabrics and textiles long lasting, attractive and make
it functional, it is really crucial for it them to undergo several tests,
additions and subtractions. To make it worthy of lasting long for a
long time, giving them best quality and provide it best suitable
characteristics, textile finishes are important. We will understand its
role and several steps involved in giving the textile the perfect finish.
Lets understand its journey from a fabric to perfection

4. TERMS & DEFINITIONS
FINISHES
A fabric finish is applied to a fabric once it has been
made, to improve its appearance, Feel or other
properties.
Finishing processes are carried out to improve the
natural properties or attractiveness of the fabric and
to increase its serviceability

5. HISTORY

6. NEED AND ROLE OF FINISHES
Fabric Finishes are used to improve the fabric in some way. This could be:
1. Improve the appearance -colour, pattern or sheen. Change the texture of the
fabric-embossing, Brushing or smoothing
2. Improve the feel-softer, crisper, firmer.
3. Improve the drape (how the fabric hangs)-weighted
4. Improve wearing qualities, crease resistance, stain resistance, flammability and
waterproof
5. Modify care requirements, easy wash, quicker drying times, colour fast, less
shrinkage

7. What does finishing do?
1.Provide aesthetic value
2.Softens the fabric or stiffens it as per the requirement
3.Adds to durability & longitivity
4.Adds to comfort
5.Provide safety
6.Improves performance

8. DIFFERENT TYPES OF FINISHED FABRICS AND TEXTILES

9. CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHES
ON THE BASIS OF SPECIALITY
AESTHETIC FINISHES
FUNCTIONAL FINISHES
ON THE BASIS OF QUALITY
TEMPROARY FINISHES
SEMI PERMAENT FINHSES
PERMAMANENT FINISHES
ON THE BASIS OF TYPE OF MACHINERY
MECHANICAL FINISHES
CHEMICAL FINISHES

10. AESTHETIC FINISHES
The appearance of fabrics is sometimes deceiving. In part, the
Appearance depends on the type of fibres, the construction of the yarns
and fabrics, and the dyeing and printing involved.
However, finishes can be applied to fabrics that enhance the basic aesthetic
qualities. Aesthetic finishes influence the lustre,
texture, drapability. Hand and surface appearance of fabrics as well as
enhance a host of other qualities.
Aesthetic finishes change the appearance and/or hand or drape
of the fabrics.

11. SIZING
Afterwinding and warpingprocess yarn is sized during beam preparation.
Sizing is the process of applying a protective adhesive coating on the surface
of the yarn, so that the warp yarn can withstand against the weaving forces.
Another way, sizing is an application of size and lubricants to the warp yarns.
Objectives of sizing:
To improve weave ability of warp yarn by making it smoother, stronger,
and more resistant to abrasion against various machine parts.
An optimal size recipe, which guarantees a process safe work-ability and a good
weaving behavior.

12. SIZING AGENTS AND THEIR ROLES IN TEXTILE FINISHING

13. HOW IT’S DONE

14. DESIZING
During wet processing, various chemicals are applied and before starting these
processes we must be sure of maximum absorption of these chemicals. For
this, the sizing materials are removed by desizing.
We can say, the main aim of desizing is the elimination of the size material
from the fabric. If the sizing materials cover the warp yarns, it will lead to
uneven dyeing, printing or finishing. If not taken out completely.
Desizing depends upon thesizing agents, adhesions between sizing materials
and fabric materials, allowing the desizing agent to degrade or solubilize the
size material and finally to wash out the degradation products. Caustic soda,
diluted sulphuric acid is used for desizing

15. HOW IT’S DONE
WATER

16. DEGUMMING
Degumming is the process of removing sericin or silk gum from silk.
Removing the gum improves the shine, colour and texture of the silk
because the gum can serve as a protective layer.
It is typically left on the silk until it is ready to dye. In some cases fabrics is
woven to completion and then degummed, to protect the yarn from
abrasion on the loom.
Degumming also removes accompanying substances such as fats, oils,
natural pigments, and mineral components. The degumming process not
only helps in dyeing, but also particularly for good printing results.

17. HOW ITS DONE

18. WEIGHTING
After the processing of silk material, it loses about 25% of its weight particularly after
degumming. This loss in weight leads to a great loss of money since they are very
expensive.
To compensate the loss, some weight is artificially added to the material by chemical
means.
Silk is weighted using the metallic salts either in the yarn stage or as a woven
fabric. It may be weighted during the dyeing process where the metallic salts are
added to the dye. In the weighting process, the silk fibers absorb the metallic salts.
These salts are not removed even after repeated laundering.
Tin salts are widely used for silk weighting. Ex –stannic chloride by fixation with
sodium carbonate, sodium silicate, sodium phosphate

19. FINISHED SILK

20. SCOURING
The term ‘scouring’ applies to the removal of impurities such as oils, wax,
gums, soluble impurities and solid dirt commonly found in textile material
and produce a hydrophilic and clean cloth. NaOH solution is used in
this process.
Objectives of Scouring:
To remove natural as well as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic character
as completely as possible.
To increase absorbency of textile material.
To leave the fabric in a highly hydrophilic condition without undergoing chemical or
physical damage significantly.

21. SCOURING BEING DONE BY KIER BOILING PROCESS
General recipe for scouring for
Kier boiler process:
•Alkali (NaOH) -2 to 5 gm per
litre.
•Soda ash -x gm per litre to
adjust PH (PH required for
scouring is 10.5).
•Wetting agent -1 gm per litre.
•Sequestering agent -1 gm per
litre.
•Detergent -1 to 2 gm per litre.
•Temperature -100 to 1250c.

22. CALENDERING
Calendering is a type of mechanical levelling and segmenting process
for ‘finishing’ fabrics or webs to produce a special effect, namely
flattening, lustre, compacting, glazing, smoothing, texturing and
other embossed patterns by passing in open width between two adjacent rollers
kept under pressure.
The passage of material (full-width piece goods) between two rollers is called nip,
to produce flat, compact and polished fabric.

23. HOW IT HAPPENS?

24. DECATIZING
By this process, high quality wool and woollen blend fabrics receive a
permanent fixing. The wool fabrics acquire important basic qualities like a
flowing drape, crease resistance and a discreet glaze finish.
The fabric is compressed between two layers of woolen felt and steam is is
blown continuously in between it which gives it body and a fixed shape and a
fine glaze.

25. DECATIZING MACHINE

26. TENTERING
This finish is given to a fabric when their edge becomes uneven due to dying
processes or wet finishing. The tentering process straightens out the edges
and weaves of the fabrics, making it even in the width.
A tenter folds holds the edges spread across the chain in a required tension
manner which is then released onto to the cylinder to be folded.

28. NAPPING
This produces a raised effect on the fabrics and renders it soft and warm. The fabric
is first passed over a revolving cylinder covered with teasels (bent wire).
The teasels scratch the fibres up to form a nap thus formed is then clipped to a
uniform height by passing it through a shearing machine. Cotton and wool are given
this finish.
The fuzzy finish, produced by napping makes a soft fabric, which provides warmth
because of the insulative air cells in the nap. The thicker the nap, the more air cells,
and the warmer the fabric. The fact that stains can be removed more readily from a
napped surface is an additional advantage.

29. HOW NAPPING IS ACHIEVED?

31. SHEARING
This process clips any short end of fibers or yarns slicking
out of fabrics. The fabric is passed through 2 roller brushes and both
sides of the material are cleaned at the same time.
Shearing is achieved by machines with razor sharp blades angled at
definite length which gives the textile the pre-requisite finish.
Different designs and ridge effects can be introduced using modified
blades.

32. HOW SHEARING IS ACHIEVED?

33. FLOCKING
A type of raised decoration applied to the surface of a fabric in which an
adhesive is printed on the fabric in a specific pattern and then finally chopped
fibers are applied by means of dusting, airbrushing, or electrostatic charges.
The fibers adhere only to the areas where the adhesive has been applied and the
excess fibers are removed by mechanical means.
Different types of designs, patterns and embossing effects can be obtained by
using flocking at cheaper rates. The designs are high in quality but with time and
moisture it may lose its quality.

34. HOW FLOCKING IS ACHIEVED?

35. FLOCKING FINISH IN
TEXTILES

36. SANFORIZATION
Many fabrics shrink after their first wash. To overcome this defect, they are
sanforized. The process ensures less than 1% shrinkage for fabrics after
washing. The process is carried out by passing the pre-shrunk fabric
between a thick cloth and the surface of steam heated metallic roller. The
fabric thus finished does not shrink further.
Sanforizing is a controlled compressive shrinkage process, which is applied
on fabric to achieve shrinkage before making the garments. It is
amechanical finishing processof treating textile fabrics to prevent the
normal dimensional alternation of warp and weft. Sanforizing is also called
anti-shrinkage finishing process.

37. HOW SANFORIZATION IS ACHIEVED?

38. MERCERIZING
A treatment of cotton yarn or fabric to increase its luster and affinity for dyes. The
material is immersed under tension in a cold sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) solution in
warp or in the piece, and is later neutralized in acid.
The process causes a permanent swelling of thefiberand thus increases its luster. It is
the process of treatment of cellulosic material with cold or hot caustic conditions under
specific conditions to improve its appearance and physical as well as chemical properties.
Purpose of mercerizing
1.To improve the luster
2.To improve the strength
3. To improve the dye uptake and moisture regain.

39. BLEACHING
This is necessary if any staining or discoloration have occurred during
prior manufacturing process. Bleaching results in a pure white material.
When fabrics have been bleached for finishing; they are referred as
‘bleached goods’. It can be carried out by oxidizing or reducing agents.
They are ozone, hydrogen peroxide, hypochlorite, titanous chloride,
sodium sulphate etc.

40. BEFORE BLEACH AFTER BLEACH

41. DYEING
This process is used to enhance the appearance of fabric by adding colour
and pattern. There are various methods of dyeing like raw stock dyeing, slug
dyeing yarn, dyeing, yarn dyeing, piece dyeing etc.
It is estimated that over 10,000 different dyes and pigments are used
industrially and over 7 x 10
5
tons of synthetic dyes are annually produced
worldwide

42. DYEING TEXTILES

43. PRINTING
•Not strictly speaking ‘finishes’ these processes are used to enhance the
appearance of fabric by adding colour and pattern.
•There are various methods of printing like block printing, screen
printing, roller printing etc.
•Designs are made digitally or by hand on a sheet and are then finalized
by feeding them into computer controlled printers. 3-D effects and
attractive designs, patterns and numerous logos, pictures can be
printed on textiles.

44. INDUSTRIAL PRINTING

45. SINGEING
During the singeing process fibres which are not tied in threads or in the
cloth are burned or turned to gas through the action of thermal energy,
normally by means of flame. This means that a fabric surface is achieved
which is virtually free of hairs and fibres.
Objectives:
•Singeing of a fabric is done in order to obtain a clean fabric surface
which allows the structure of the fabric to be clearly seen.
•Fabrics, which have been singed, soil less easily than un-singed fabrics.
•The risk of pilling, especially with synthetics and their blends, is reduced
in case of singed fabrics.
•Singed fabrics allow printing of fine intricate patterns with high clarity
and detail.

46. SINGEING MACHINE

47. CONCLUSION
Textile finishes gives the best quality and best comfortable fabrics for our
use. It plays a crucial role in making fabric durable and long lasting.
We hope we were able to convey as much information as the presentation
intended. That’s all for now, have a good day, everyone.
Thank you.