TEXTILE FINISHING

ENTIRE NOTES FOR RECENT TEXTILE FINISHING
IT IS USEFUL FOR COLLEGE LEVEL STUDENTS, AND ALSO FOR INDUSTRIAL PEOPLES..,

1. Textile finishing T.SARAVANA PRAKASH Head- Dept of CDF Maharani Arts and Science college- Dharapuram

2. TEXTILE FINISHING Final step of the Wet processing. For a multitude of processes and treatments to add some finishing feathers before marketing. It is the process carried out on textiles to change the appearance, feel serviceability & durability. It is the final processing of the cloth and its purpose is to make the fabric suitable for its intended end use. Example: making the fabric shrink proof, softer, stiffer, water repellent, and crease resistant or a combination of these properties.

3. objectives To improve the appearance and make the fabric attractive To cover faults in the original fabric. To improve wearing qualities of fabric by making it shrink or crease resistant and set garment shape. E.g. Durable press. To import special properties to the fabric for special end uses such as waterproofing, flame-proofing etc. To strengthen the fabric by coating or laminating. To produce novelty effects e.g. organdie fabrics by parchment sing.

4. IMPORTANCE OF FINISHING Crease resistance properties are improved. Handle & Draping qualities are improved. Weight & Dimensional stabilities are improved. Crease recovery properties are improved. Color fastness properties are improved. Shrinkage will be reduced while laundering. The fabrics may be dried quickly. The fabric strength will be increased. Light & Laundry resistance have given good results.

5. APPLICATION METHODS

6. Stabilizing Processes  Mercerization   Ammoniating   Shrinking   Tentering   Decatizing   Enzyme Washing  

7. Textural Processes Temporary Stiffening Permanent Stiffening Heat Setting Hydro setting Steam setting

8. Aesthetic Finishing The Finishing treatments improve the appearance or touch (sensation) of the fabric is known as Aesthetic Finishes. It improves the quality or aspect of the Fabrics, which appeals to the senses. It is one type of Mechanical finish. 

9. important Aesthetic finishes Luster : a) Glazed b) Moiré c) Schreiner d) Emboss e) Calendering Drape: a) Crisp & Transparent b) Burn out c) Sizing d) Weighting Texture or Hand: a) Shearing b) Brushed c) Plisse d) Pleating e) Embroidered f) Napped g) Fulled

10. FUNCTIONAL FINISHES Hence the sequence of finishing operations is likely to be different. While cellulosic's require a resin finishing treatment to impart easy-care properties, synthetic fibers already have these easy-care criteria and require only a heat setting operation.

11. Wrinkle Free Finish Types of Wrinkle Free Process: Pre- Curing Post- Curing Dip- Spin Vapor – Phase 

12. Water Repellent Finish The fabric should not become unnecessarily stiff & harsh. It will do not affect the fastness properties of the fabric. Specially Durable to washing. Also resistant to dry-cleaning. Easy handling and storage. Improved finish durability, can provide repellency to 30 home laundry washes.

13. Process of Water Repellent Finish Using Metallic salts Pad – Dry Method Using Silicon emulsion Pad – Dry – Cure Method Using Wax Emulsion Pad – Dry Method

14. Durable Water Repellent Finish Steary -methyl- pyridium -chloride is popularly used for this type of finish. Methylal stearamide , Methylated methyol melamine can be also used. If necessary catalysts may be added, those are chemically react with fibres and produce Durable Repellent Finish. Pad – Dry- Cure method. For synthetics Zirconium type pyridium compounds, Fluro carbons and Silicons are used.

15. Water Proof Finish If fabrics prevent both air and water absorption or penetration of water for a fixed period of time are pass through itself, known as water-Proof fabrics. For certain uses such as Tarpaulin, Umbrella cloth are required to give this type of finish. But these finished goods are makes un easy & un comfortable to wear because of no air circulation.

16. Process of Water Proof Finish Hydrophobic substances are deposited on the cloth The fabric becomes hydrophobic itself Vulcanized natural rubber, Oxidaised oils of varnishes, Polyvinyl Chloro Acetate (PVCA), Polyvinyl Lidine Chloride (PVLC), Cellulose acetate and Cupramonium hydroxide solution are generally used.

17. Flame Retardant Finish To protect the fire from the fabric is the objective of this finish. The finish can be carried out on the following fabrics Cotton Wool Polyester P/C Blends Nylon Acrylic

18. Cotton – Flam Resistant Finish Soluble compounds such as Borax, Sodium Phosphate are used. A mixture is given below for effective finish. Borax, Boric acid and Sodium Phosphate mixture is used. Most of the fire proof agents can be fixed by the synthetic resins. THPC ( Tetrakis Hydroxy methyl Phosponium Chloride) will be used with Urea & Methylol Melamine (MM) produce good wet fasteners flame proofing properties. After paddind the fabric is dried and cured at 140 C for 5 minutes. And then the fabric was washed. This procedure is known as Proban finish . The process sequence is Pad – Dry – Cure for this procedure.

19. Soil Release Finish Accumulation of soil & dust particles is known as soiling. The fabric cannot be made totally Soil repellent is not possible, but a type of finish is given to the fabric, so that during washing the accumulate soil on the fabric can be easily removed by from the fabric. Most are durable through 40 to 50 launderings and are routinely applied to fabrics for work clothes and table cloths

20. Factors governing soiling Increasing factors Decreasing factors Static charge Temperature Twist in the yarn Moisture Regain Size of the soil Smoothness of the surface Denier of the fabric

21. Process of Soil Release Finish Method – I: Pad with PE Glycol solution and NaOH . Pad – Dry method. Method – II Pad with 1.3% of concentration of Cirrasal PT. Pad – Dry - Cure method. Method – III Pad with 10% NaOH @ 60 C for 10 minutes. Pad – Dry method. Method – IV Pad with H 3 PO 4 (Phosphoric acid). Pad – Dry method.

22. Other functional finishes Antistatic Finish Anti Mildew/Moth proofing finish Anti-pilling finish Non-Slip finish Zero Finish

23. SPECIAL PURPOSE FINISHES

24. Silicon Finish Silicons are the most versatile organo polymers available today. It is very much use in finishing, to improve the life, value and quality of the fabric. Silicons give durable finish and also provide softness, lasting, elasticity, soft handle and good sewing property. This type of finish can reduce static charge on synthetic goods. In tightly woven fabrics it will improve the anti slippage properties.

25. Method of Application Pad – Dry – Cure method Padding liquor consists of Silicon Emulsion : 10-30 gpl CH 3 COOH : 5gpl P H : 5.5 Then the fabric is dried at 100 C – 200 C and then cured at 150 C @ 5 minutes. It is important that the catalyst (1/5 part of silicon) is to be added.

26. Denim Finish This is used for high fashion garments and throughout the so popular today. Denim was one of the successful textile fabric ever developed. Finishing of this fabric has several properties that to comprises, to improve the appearance like feel & handle.

27. features Superior garment quality Increase load handling (30-35%) Eco friendly process Expanded variety of ranges Less damage to seam edges Extra softener is not necessary

28. Stone Wash Finish This is the new one trend to produce eye catch and novel effects in the market. Now this currently under trail runs very soon will appear on fashion markets. These effects are mainly produce on woven goods.

29. Types of Stone Wash Mud Wash Iron Wash Chalk wash Enzyme Washes Whole Enzymes: extracted from original organisms. These are very aggressive. GMO Enzymes: extracted from modified organisms. These are mild.

30. ENZYMES IN TEXTILE SECTORS Desizing : Amylases are used to remove the starches from the fabric into soluble sugars. Print paste removal: Amylases can be used may be thickeners can also used. Bio – washing Celluloses Enzymes can be used to remove dye particles and impurities. Bio – polishing & Anti Pilling Celluloses Enzymes can be used. Dye bath applications: Acid and netural celluloses Enzymes can be used to enhance the absorption property. Scouring: Combination Enzymes are used, that means two or more Enzymes. Silk degumming: Proteases Enzymes can be used, it is also a eco friendly process

31. Other special finishes Anti Bacterial Finish UV Protection Finish Fragrance Finish Bullet Proof Finish

32. RECENT TRENDS IN FINISHING

33. Phase Change finishes A phase-change material (PCM) is a substance with a high heat & fusion which, melting and solidifying at a certain temperature, is capable of storing and releasing large amounts of energy. Heat is absorbed or released when the material changes from solid to liquid and vice versa. Some phase change materials are suspended in water, and are relatively nontoxic. Others are hydrocarbons or other flammable materials, or are toxic.

34. Types of PCM Organic PCM Paraffin (C n H 2 n +2 ) and fatty acids (CH 3 (CH 2 ) 2 n COOH) Inorganic PCM Salt hydrates (M n H 2 O) Eutectics PCM Organic-organic, organic-inorganic, inorganic-inorganic compounds Hygroscopic materials Many natural building materials are hygroscopic, that is they can absorb (water condenses) and release water (water evaporates).

35. Applications of pcm Cooling: food, beverages, coffee, wine, milk products, green houses Medical applications: transportation of blood, operating tables, hot-cold therapies Human body cooling under bulky clothing or costumes. Passive storage in bioclimatic building/architecture (HDPE, paraffin) Smoothing exothermic temperature peaks in chemical reactions Solar power plants & Spacecraft thermal systems

36. PCM microcapsules on fibre

37. Mechanism of PCM in Fabric

38. Biocides The best method of avoiding microbial deterioration is to use synthetic materials which are inherently resistant to attack. Colourless and odourless . Effective at low concentrations. Inexpensive and easy to apply. Resistant to sunlight and leaching from the fabric. Not affecting fabric handle or strength. Compatible with water-repellent and flame-retardant agents, dyes, and other textile auxiliaries. Does not sensitize the fabric to damage by light or other influences.

39. Resins Resins are the chemical group used in many of the finishes. Resins are the most widely used chemicals in the textile industry. They add stiffness to fabrics and are thus used as stiffening agents or to create a firm hand. Fabrics will become less moisture absorbent, thus drying more rapidly. They will also be less comfortable in warm, humid weather. Resins combine chemically with cellulosic fibres Most resins produce an offensive "fish-like" or formaldehyde odour in fabric. This odour eventually disappears on exposure to air and/or laundering. Resins have an affinity for oily soils, Soil release finishes help alleviate this objection.

40. Plasma Treatment Plasma treatment is a surface modifying process. The fabric, sliding through the electrodes, is subject to a true bombardment from the elements that constitute the plasma and which come from the decomposition of gas and contain a very high level of kinetic energy.

41. Micro Encapsulation It is mainly used to increase the stability and life of the product being encapsulated, facilitate the manipulation of the product and control its liberation in an adequate time and space.

42. NANO-FINISHES The first commercial application of Nano tech in textile and clothing industry is found in the form of Nano particle. One nanometer is being equalant for three or four atoms. The impact of nano technology in the textile finishing area has brought up innovative finishing as well as new application technique.

43. Self Cleaning Suits - Nano Care Silver nano particles are used in a patented coating. A film polymer mixed with silver nano particles can be permanently integrated into any common fabric; in the long run it can save time and money by reducing dry-cleaning expenses. It is also eco-friendly and contains no fluorine compounds. The research team is also trying to engineer anti-microbial particles or odour free agents in to the coating, which could help to repel strong odours such as body odours & cigarette odours . The coating would be flow essential also permanent for wear, without by dry cleaning.

44. EFFLUENT TREATMENT Plan Textile industry is one of the largest sectors of the world. In the various textile sectors there are over 25 Milo peoples are employed. Also the people or the consumers spent around 1.3 Trillion Dollars on textile in an every year. In these textile sectors, having or facing the big trouble in their application and production for producing the quality colors and finishers.

45. Reasons for etp The textile chemicals and the dyeing industry sectors consuming large quantity of water. And also produce large amount of waste water from the different kinds of operations. Waste water from the textile industry can require the appropriate treatments before releasing the environment. In current scenario, the treatment of wastewater that means ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant) will be increased, because of the environmental issues awareness.

46. Innovative Solutions Reduce water and energy consumption during preparation, coloration and finishing. Reduce aqueous waste and off gases. Improve process efficiency. Reduce exposure to hazardous chemicals.

47. Range of innovative effects Reduce the amount of energy and required in the care of the garments. Keep the garments or clothes fresher without washing. Keep the garments or clothes looking new for longer. Reduce or eliminate the need of the tumble iron or dry. Eliminate the need to dry clean.

48. White Biotechnology Modern society expects biotechnology to be the answer for many worldwide problems like depletion of energy sources, incurable illnesses and pollution, among other problems. Industrial use of biotechnology, known as white biotechnology, is bringing about new products and processes aimed at the use of renewable resources, as well as the application of green technologies with low energy consumption and environmentally healthy practices.

49. Future Scope India is only contributing about 5% of the world’s total textile production. The world market place is continuously changing and so is the demand of people changing. Value addition on textile substrate is playing very important role in manufacturing of fabric. Hence Textile fabric finished with special and the new idea to market textile goods.

50. CONCLUSION Textile finishing, we also mean all the processing operations. That process included in the stage, called finishing stage. These are generally applied to the fabrics to improve their appearance, hand and properties. These finishes are at times in accordance with their field of application.