Textile raw material_presentation_0088.pptx

textile fiber mohair and cashmere

1. NATIONAL TEXTILE UNIVERSITY Faculty of Engineering and Technology Textile Raw Materials textile raw material 1

2. Introduction to Hair Fiber textile raw material 2

3. textile raw material 3 Cashmere Fiber Wool from the Cashmere goat, sometimes called Pashmina, is used to make cashmere (or Kashmiri) wool. The down goat, or Cashmere (Kashmir). from the hair's delicate, undercoat or underlayer. Guard hair refers to the coarser and more straight outer coat. Breeds are categorized also by the type of their wool. Fine wool breeds are those that have wool of great crimp and density, which are preferred for textiles. Introduction

4. textile raw material 4 History of cashmere(hair fiber) Early Origins The history of cashmere fiber traces back thousands of years to the mountainous regions of Central Asia, particularly in present-day Mongolia, China, India, and Iran. The name "cashmere" itself is derived from the region of Kashmir in India, renowned for producing high-quality cashmere wool. Ancient Times : The use of cashmere dates back to at least the 3rd century BC. Nomadic tribes in the Himalayas and the Tibetan Plateau were among the first to utilize the soft undercoat of goats for insulation against harsh climates.

5. textile raw material 5 Introduction to Cashmere : The region of Kashmir became a significant center for cashmere production around the 14th century when Persian Sufi mystics and travelers introduced the techniques of spinning and weaving this luxurious fiber to the local population. The Kashmiri artisans refined these techniques, producing shawls that became famous for their softness, warmth, and intricate designs. Commercial trading of raw cashmere between Asia and Europe began in the 18th century, with France claiming to be the first to commercially spin cashmere In the 18th and 19th centuries, Kashmir had a thriving industry producing shawls from goat down imported from Tibet and Tartary In the early 19th century, French industrialist William-Louis Ternaux began experimenting with producing real India shawls using the down of Tibetan cashmere goats

6. textile raw material 6 Cashmere Wool Market Cashmere has been traditionally manufactured in Mongolia, Nepal, and Kashmir for thousands of years, known as pashmina or pashmina for its use in handmade shawls in Kashmir. The global smart bullets market was valued at $0.56 billion in 2021 and is projected to reach $1.4 billion by 2031, with key players including Axon Enterprise, Inc., BAE Systems Plc., and Lockheed Martin Corporation. Efforts are being made to promote sustainable practices in cashmere production, such as transitioning to raising yaks or camels instead of cashmere goats and implementing grazing bans. Mislabeling of cashmere products is a concern, with some vendors selling items containing little to no actual cashmere. Recycling programs for cashmere clothing are being introduced by some fashion brands to address environmental concerns.

7. textile raw material 7 This graph shows the cashmere-producing countries and their production per year/tons

8. textile raw material 8 WOOL GRADING Grade A Cashmere : Grade A cashmere is the highest quality and finest fibers available. Fibers are thinner and softer, with an average diameter of around 14-15.5 microns and a length of about 34-36mm. Grade A cashmere is known for its fine texture, durability, and softness, making it more valuable than lower grades. Grade B and Grade C Cashmere : Grade B and Grade C cashmere are of lower quality compared to Grade A. Grade C cashmere is nearly double the thickness of Grade A, making it less valuable. Cashmere sweaters made from Grade B or C cashmere are typically less expensive than Grade A sweaters

9. textile raw material 9 9,600 tons of raw cashmere are exported annually by Mongolia to the globe. Only 15% of Mongolia's total raw cashmere supply is utilized to produce final items; the remaining 85% is shipped in partially processed condition. Gobi Corporation purchases 70% of the raw materials used in the production of completed clothing in Mongolia; other businesses in the country utilize the remaining 30%. The market for luxury cashmere fashion apparel is projected to increase at a rate of 3.86% annually between 2018 and 2025, when it is predicted to reach US$4.2 billion. Cashmere as a world industry

10. textile raw material 10 Wool Production Selection of Breeds : Not all goats produce high-quality cashmere. Selective breeding practices are employed to enhance the quality and quantity of cashmere fiber. Breeds like the Changthangi (Pashmina) in India and the Inner Mongolian goats are renowned for their superior cashmere. Raising Conditions : These goats thrive in cold climates where their undercoats grow thicker to provide insulation. Farmers ensure that the goats are raised in natural grazing environments to maintain the quality of the fiber

11. textile raw material 11 Harvesting Cashmere The extraction of cashmere occurs during the spring molting season when goats naturally shed their winter undercoat. Combing vs. Shearing : The preferred method of harvesting cashmere is combing, which involves gently combing the goat to remove the soft undercoat. This method is less stressful for the animal and yields higher-quality fiber compared to shearing, which can mix coarse outer hair with fine undercoat. Sorting and Dehairing : After harvesting, the raw cashmere undergoes sorting to separate the fine undercoat from the coarse outer hair. The dehairing process further refines the fiber, ensuring only the softest, finest cashmere is used for textile production

12. textile raw material 12 MORPHOLOGY Wool fiber cross-section and longitudinal view under the SEM Wool is a protein fiber. Proteins are linear polymers built from 20 different α- amino acids. All α- amino acids possess common structural features, including an α carbon to which an amino group, a carboxyl group, and a variable side chain (R) are bonded.

13. textile raw material 13 KERATIN Wool & other animal hair fibers are made of a sulfur-rich protein called Keratin, with a molecular weight up to ~ 40 Kda. Keratin shows an amphoteric behavior in water, according to the pH of the aqueous solution.

14. textile raw material 14 The isoelectric point (pI) is the pH at which the protein carries no net electrical charge (maximum stability). THE ISOELECTRIC POINT OF CASHMERE IS 3.5

15. textile raw material 15 PROPERTIES Tenacity and Tensile Strength: Cashmere has a high tenacity and tensile strength compared to other animal fibers like wool The tenacity of cashmere is 8-12 cN/tex (centinewtons per tex), with higher values indicating greater strength Specific Gravity : The specific gravity of cashmere is around 1.31 Elastic Properties: Cashmere has excellent elastic properties, allowing it to stretch and recover well without permanent deformation The crimp in cashmere fibers contributes to its elasticity and lofty feel Elongation and Break %: Cashmere has a high elongation at break, typically around 30% The long staple length of cashmere fibers (28-42mm) also contributes to its strength and resistance to pilling

16. textile raw material 16 Heating Effect: Cashmere is sensitive to heat and can be damaged by excessive heat or ironing Proper care instructions should be followed to maintain the quality of cashmere garments Melting and Degradation Point: The melting point of cashmere is around 300°C Cashmere begins to degrade at temperatures above 150°C Flame Resistance: Cashmere is a natural protein fiber and is not inherently flame-resistant Proper care should be taken to avoid exposing cashmere to open flames or high-heat sources Effect of Water: Cashmere is a hygroscopic fiber, meaning it can absorb up to 16% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet Cashmere can be washed, but care should be taken to avoid agitation, hot water, and harsh detergents which can cause felting and shrinkage

17. textile raw material 17 Acid Mild Acids : Cashmere wool is relatively resistant to mild acids. Exposure to dilute acids, such as acetic acid (vinegar), typically does not cause significant damage. Strong Acids : Strong acids, like sulfuric acid, can degrade the protein structure of the wool, leading to the weakening of the fibers and loss of tensile strength. Base Mild Bases : Exposure to mild bases, such as soap or baking soda, can cause slight swelling but generally does not damage the fibers if exposure is limited. Strong Bases : Strong bases, like sodium hydroxide (caustic soda), can cause severe damage to cashmere wool by breaking down the keratin proteins, leading to loss of strength and elasticity. Oxidants Oxidizing Agents : Oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide and chlorine bleach can damage the protein structure of wool fibers. This can lead to discoloration, weakening, and even complete degradation of the fibers over time.

18. textile raw material 18 Alkali Alkaline Conditions : Prolonged exposure to alkaline conditions can weaken the wool fibers and lead to a rough texture. It can also strip natural oils, making the wool less soft. Dyeing Chemical Dyes : Chemical dyeing processes can affect the strength and elasticity of cashmere wool. Depending on the type of dye and the process used, the wool can either retain its properties or become weakened. Natural Dyes : Natural dyes are generally less harsh but may still require mordants, which can impact the wool fibers. Sun Exposure UV Radiation : Prolonged exposure to sunlight (UV radiation) can cause photo-oxidative damage to wool fibers. This leads to yellowing, loss of strength, and brittleness.

19. textile raw material 19 APPLICATION AND USES Apparel Cashmere is most commonly used in the fashion industry, where it is prized for its softness and warmth. Common cashmere garments include: Sweaters and Cardigans : Cashmere sweaters are popular for their warmth, comfort, and elegance. Scarves and Shawls : These accessories are lightweight yet warm, making them ideal for cooler weather. Socks : Cashmere socks offer luxury and comfort, keeping feet warm without bulkiness. Coats and Jackets : High-end outerwear often incorporates cashmere for added warmth and a luxurious feel. 2. Home Textiles Blankets and Throws : Cashmere blankets provide exceptional warmth and are often used as stylish throws. Bedding : Cashmere can be used in high-end bedding for its softness and insulating properties.

20. textile raw material 20 3. Luxury Goods Designer Bags : Some high-end fashion brands incorporate cashmere into their handbag designs for a unique and luxurious texture. Robes and Nightwear : Cashmere robes and pajamas offer a luxurious feel against the skin, ideal for relaxing at home. 4. Blended Fabrics Cashmere-Wool Blends : Blending cashmere with wool enhances durability while retaining softness and warmth. Cashmere-Silk Blends : This combination results in a fabric that is both smooth and warm, ideal for high-end fashion garments. Cashmere-Cotton Blends : Blending cashmere with cotton can create lightweight, breathable fabrics suitable for various seasons. 5. Industrial Applications High-End Acoustic Insulation : Due to its fine fibers and insulating properties, cashmere can be used in high-end acoustic insulation materials. Specialty Yarns : Cashmere fibers can be spun into specialty yarns for niche applications in textile arts and crafts.

21. textile raw material 21 MOHAIR-WOOL FIBER

22. textile raw material 22 INTRODUCTION Mohair is a luxurious natural textile fiber renowned for its softness, luster, and durability. It is derived from the hair of the Angora goat, a breed originating from the Angora region of present-day Turkey. Mohair has been prized for centuries for its exceptional qualities and is widely used in the fashion and textile industries.

23. textile raw material 23 HISTORY History and Cultivation Origins : Mohair fiber comes from the Angora goat, which originated in the Angora region of Turkey. The fiber has been prized for centuries for its exceptional qualities. Global Production : Mohair is cultivated primarily in countries like South Africa, the United States, Turkey, and New Zealand. These regions offer suitable climates and conditions for raising Angora goats

24. textile raw material 24 GLOBAL PRODUCER Mohair-producing countries South Africa United States Turkey Argentina New Zealand Lesotho Australia Mexico Top of Form

25. textile raw material 25 MARKETING Market Performance and Prices : The South African mohair market, particularly through auctions managed by OVK, has shown strong performance with high-quality mohair fetching premium prices. For example, a bale of BSFFK mohair of 23.9 microns sold for R797/kg, and another bale of 22.8 microns reached R800/kg​ ( OVK )​​ ( OVK )​. The overall market indicator for mohair has seen slight fluctuations, with recent prices around R401.17/kg, showcasing resilience in demand despite minor decreases​ ( OVK )​.

26. textile raw material 26 IMPORT BY OTHER COUNTRIES

27. textile raw material 27 STRUCTURE CHEMICAL STRUCTURE OF MOHAIR ➤ Mohair fiber essentially consists of protein, water, internal and external lipids, and fall into the class of protein materials, known as Keratins ➤filament-like molecules and almost insolubility in dilute acids and alkalis ➤Keratin fibers, such as Mohair, can be regarded as a long fibrous composite, comprising crystalline, relatively water impenetrable low Sulphur helical micro fibrils. ➤Keratin proteins are natural polymers, formed by the linking together of amino acids units in long chains coiled in a helix.

28. textile raw material 28 MORPHOLOGY Morphology Length : Mohair fibers are relatively long compared to other textile fibers, typically ranging from 2 to 6 inches in length. This length contributes to the strength and resilience of mohair textiles. Diameter : Mohair fibers have a moderate diameter, generally ranging from 25 to 45 microns. While finer than sheep's wool, mohair is coarser than fibers like cashmere and silk. Shape : Mohair fibers are generally cylindrical in shape, with a smooth surface. This smoothness contributes to the fiber's natural luster and softness. Color : Mohair fibers occur naturally in a range of colors, including white, black, brown, and shades of gray. The natural coloration adds to the versatility of mohair textiles, allowing for a variety of aesthetic options. Fiber Morphology : Mohair fibers are long, smooth, and lustrous. They have a diameter ranging from 25 to 45 microns, making them finer than sheep's wool but coarser than cashmere.

29. textile raw material 29 CATEGORIES CATEGORIES OF MOHAIR There are six main categories of Mohair ➤ Kid Mohair: fine, used in knit and woven fabrics ➤Yearling Mohair: Same quality like Kid Mohair But durable so used in shawls, throws ➤ Young Adult: Coarser than first two, used in socks, mittens, blanketsRec ➤ Adult Mohair: Good for outerwear and upholstery ➤ Mature Bucks: The coarsest Mohair, used for doll wigs, Santa clause beards and carpets ➤Stain Mohair: It is the last Grade of Mohair

30. textile raw material 30 CULTIVATION AND EXTRACTION . Angora Goat Rearing : Breeding and Selection : Angora goats are selectively bred for their mohair-producing qualities, including fiber quality, yield, and color. Breeders choose animals with desirable traits to maintain and improve the quality of the fiber. Grazing and Nutrition : Angora goats are typically raised in regions with semi-arid climates, where vegetation suitable for grazing is available. Proper nutrition, including access to pasture, water, and supplemental feed, is essential for maintaining the health and productivity of the goats. Shearing : Angora goats are sheared once or twice a year, usually in the spring and/or fall, to harvest the mohair fiber. Shearing is performed by skilled shearers using electric clippers to carefully remove the fleece without injuring the goat.

31. textile raw material 31 Shearing Process : The sheared fleeces are collected and sorted based on quality and color. The mohair fibers are separated from any debris or vegetable matter that may be present in the fleece. Skirting and Cleaning : The raw mohair fleeces undergo skirting, where the coarse outer fibers and any soiled or inferior-quality fibers are removed. The remaining mohair is then cleaned to remove dirt, grease, and lanolin using methods such as washing and scouring. Sorting and Grading : The cleaned mohair fibers are sorted and graded based on factors such as fiber length, diameter, color, and texture. This grading process helps to classify the mohair into different quality categories for various end uses. Dehairing (Optional) : In some cases, particularly for finer grades of mohair, a dehairing process may be employed to remove any coarse guard hairs from the fiber. This process further refines the quality and softness of the mohair. Carding and Spinning : After sorting and grading, the mohair fibers are carded to align them in a parallel orientation and remove any remaining impurities. The carded fibers are then spun into yarn using spinning machines or traditional hand-spinning techniques. Mohair Fiber Extraction :

32. textile raw material 32 PROPERTIES PHYSICAL FEATURES OF MOHAIR ➤ Lustrous --the natural sheen of the fiber caused by light being reflected. This sheen helps dyed Mohair resist fading. ➤Mohair is almost non-flammable. When placed under, or near, a naked flame, it tends to shrivel into a bead-like ash. ➤Durable: Mohair can be twisted or bent without damaging the fiber. This is due to its structure. ➤ Dye ability: Mohair dyes easily and brilliantly ➤ Resistance to soiling: Due to the scales on the fiber surface.less interlocking than sheep wool This is also fine FIBER.

33. textile raw material 33 Tensile Strength : 150 to 300 MPa Tenacity : 10 to 15 g/den Specific Gravity: The specific gravity of mohair typically ranges from about 1.30 to 1.34. Moisture regain mohair can absorb moisture amounting to 13-15% . Elastic Properties: Mohair is very elastic, allowing fibers to retain their original shape and size This elasticity allows mohair fabrics to resist wrinkling, stretching, and sagging during wear Elongation and Break %: Mohair fibers can stretch up to 30% over their length and then spring back into shape Heating Effect: Mohair is sensitive to heat and can be damaged by excessive heat or ironing

34. textile raw material 34 Melting and Degradation Point: Degradation Temperature : 220-250°C (428-482°F) Flame Resistance: Mohair is almost non-flammable, tending to shrivel into a bead-like ash when exposed to a naked flame Once removed from the flame, mohair will stop burning immediately Effect of Water: Mohair, like other natural animal fibers, has the ability to readily absorb and release atmospheric moisture Mohair dries slowly, reducing the possibility of a chill Woven mohair fabrics rarely felt or shrink, and knitted mohair fabrics shrink much less than untreated wool LOI The LOI of mohair is approximately 25-26%.

35. textile raw material 35 Acid Effect on Mohair : Mild Acids : Mohair is fairly resistant to mild acids, which do not typically cause significant damage. Weak acids, like acetic acid, are generally safe for mohair fibers. Strong Acids : Exposure to strong acids, such as sulfuric acid, can degrade the protein structure of mohair, leading to fiber weakening and potential dissolution. 2. Base Effect on Mohair : Mild Bases : Similar to cashmere, mohair can tolerate mild bases to a certain extent. Mild alkaline solutions can cause slight swelling but usually do not damage the fibers. Strong Bases : Strong bases, such as sodium hydroxide, can severely damage mohair by breaking down the keratin proteins, leading to loss of fiber strength and elasticity. 3. Oxidants Effect on Mohair : Oxidizing Agents : Oxidizing agents like hydrogen peroxide and chlorine bleach can damage the protein structure of mohair. This may result in discoloration, weakening, and fiber degradation.

36. textile raw material 36 4. Alkali Effect on Mohair : Alkaline Conditions : Prolonged exposure to alkaline conditions can weaken mohair fibers and alter their texture. Alkaline substances can strip natural oils, making the mohair less soft and shiny. 5. Dyeing Effect on Mohair : Chemical Dyes : Chemical dyeing can affect the strength and elasticity of mohair fibers. Depending on the dye and the process, the fibers may become weaker or retain their original properties. Natural Dyes : Natural dyes are usually gentler but may still require mordants, which can impact the fibers. 6. Sun Exposure Effect on Mohair : UV Radiation : Prolonged exposure to sunlight can cause photo-oxidative damage to mohair fibers, leading to discoloration, loss of strength, and brittleness. 8. Reductants Effect on Mohair : Reducing Agents : Reducing agents, such as sodium bisulfite, can damage mohair fibers by breaking the disulfide bonds in keratin. This can weaken the fibers and affect their overall integrity.

37. textile raw material 37 USES Apparel : Sweaters and Cardigans : Due to its warmth and softness. Suits and Jackets : For its luxurious feel and drape. Socks : Offering durability and moisture-wicking properties. Home Textiles : Upholstery Fabric : Used for its durability and resistance to crushing. Rugs and Carpets : Known for its sheen and resilience.. Curtains and Drapes : For its lustrous appearance and drape. Luxury Items : High-End Fashion Accessories : Such as stoles and pashminas. Designer Fabrics : Used in couture garments and accessories. Industrial Uses : Felt : Mohair is sometimes used in the production of industrial felt.

38. textile raw material 38 Technical Textiles : In applications requiring durability and elasticity. Yarn for Knitting and Crocheting : Valued for its smoothness and sheen. Blended Fabrics : Blends with Wool and Silk : To enhance the properties of other fibers, adding luster and durability. Performance and Specialty Fabrics : Sportswear : Sometimes used in high-performance sportswear for its moisture-wicking and insulating properties. Costumes : Used in theatrical costumes for its dramatic sheen and texture.

39. textile raw material 39 REFERENCES Cashmere Fiber: Y. K. Sharma, N. P. Unni, and B. Lal, "Physical and Chemical Properties of Cashmere Wool," Textile Research Journal , vol. 60, no. 1, pp. 12-20, Jan. 1990. R. Postle and N. Annis, "The Mechanical Properties of Cashmere Fiber," Journal of the Textile Institute , vol. 81, no. 3, pp. 225-237, May 1990 H. J. Kim, S. M. Lee, and J. R. Park, "Effect of Processing Conditions on the Mechanical Properties of Cashmere," Fibers and Polymers , vol. 4, no. 2, pp. 83-89, Jun. 2003. R. R. Mather, Roger H Wardman, “ The Chemistry of Textile Fibre . Royal Society of Chemistry”, 2015. Mohair Fiber: M. Y. Shalaby, A. A. Hassan, and A. M. Shaker, "Physical Properties of Mohair and Its Blends," Journal of Natural Fibers , vol. 5, no. 3, pp. 207-221, Jul. 2008. T. Wang, Y. X. Zhao, and H. D. Yu, "Chemical Treatment of Mohair Fibers and Their Properties," Journal of Applied Polymer Science , vol. 93, no. 2, pp. 783-790, Jul. 2004. A. Hunter, "Mohair Fiber: Structure, Properties, and Applications," International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology , vol. 8, no. 1, pp. 32-41, Mar. 1996. R. R. Mather, Roger H Wardman, “ The Chemistry of Textile Fibre . Royal Society of Chemistry”, 2015.