My collaborator, our host, the Thin Boy, and myself were in the first carriage.
We kept congratulating ourselves and each other on this fact all the way. There
was plenty of dust, clouds of it, and we could dimly discern the other carriages
behind us, and their miserable occupants being half-smothered, whilst we were in
the pure fresh air of the morning. It was a very pretty drive of about two hours to
Aquileia, past marshy meadows bright with flowers, and vineyards with their
graceful festoons of vines, the fresh and luxuriant green of the plain contrasting
strangely with the gray barrenness of the neighbouring hills, through the little
old-fashioned town of Monfalcone. It is quite an Italian town, with its big piazza,
graceful church tower, and balconied houses—closely shuttered, of course; the
inhabitants seem to have a horror of fresh air. After Monfalcone the scenery too
becomes quite Italian, though we are still in Austria. The plain continues fresh
and green as ever, but the hills fade away in the blue distance. We cross that
bluest of rivers, the Isonzo, drive between green hedges fragrant with wild roses
and honeysuckle, pass a long, low, house covered with roses, with a lovely
garden and a grass lawn-tennis ground (the only grass court I have seen on the
Continent), go over numerous little brooks that wind along under the dark
shadow of overhanging bushes, and are generally haunted by promising families
of downy yellow ducklings, and at last reach Aquileia.
Here we had what was a second breakfast to most of the party, of coffee and
rolls. Our host did not eat anything. He said he couldn't eat when he had risen in
"the middle of the night." It was a mild rebuke, but it passed unnoticed.
We intended to go to Grado before seeing Aquileia, so after this meal we
sought our steamer, a launch that plies daily between the two places. It did not
require much seeking, firstly, because it rested on the placid waters of the canal
close to our "hotel," and, secondly, as it guided us to its whereabouts, with great
consideration, by a series of most unearthly screams of the whistle, and by
disgorging vast quantities of evil-smelling smoke.
The scenery is rather pretty after leaving Aquileia. High reeds and grass grow
down to the water's edge, larks carol joyously in the sky, reed-warblers twitter
among the rushes, and bright-hued dragonflies dart hither and thither. There is a
smell of new-mown hay in the air (which causes the Fat Boy to sneeze thirty-
seven times without stopping), and one sees the peasants at work, with the big,
gentle, sleepy-looking oxen drawing the waggons. One soon leaves the canal
behind, and comes out into numberless shallow lagoons of salt water, with dreary
sandbanks, and lonely-looking posts to mark the deeper channels. There are a
few dismal huts on some of the sandbanks, and in one place a church tower
stands alone in its glory—the rest of the church has fallen down. We saw no living
thing there except a solitary eagle. It is a desolate and melancholy sort of place,
and I for one was very glad when we came out into "blue water" and Grado hove