wool , wool v/s hair, grading of wool by Dr Sunil Kumar B

wool, shearing of wool, wool verses hair, grading of wool

1. wool Guided by: Dr.Y.RAVINDRA REDDY Proffesor , Dept of LPM, CVSc , Tirupati , SVVU. Submitted by :- Dr B.SUNIL KUMAR PG scholar , Dept of LPM TVM/2015-024

2. What is wool? It is textile fibre obtain from sheep and other animal like cashmere from goat, mohair from goat, qiviut from muskoxen, angora from rabbit, camelids . Wool straight of sheep is know as greasy wool it contain high level of valuable lenolin , dead skin, pesticide, vegetable matter.

3. History: wild sheep more hairy than woolly sheep domesticated from 9000 to 11000 years ago. Selection of woolly sheep began at 6000 BC wool trade developed into serious business become generation of capital in 13 centuary and become an economic engine of low countries.

4. Indian wool is known for its coarseness and presence of medulla. Medullated fiber are characterized by a central canal containing cell residues and air pockets running continuous or fragmented along the length.( Smuts and Hunter 1987) They appear chalky white and apparent unable to dye to same shade as normal solid fibre. They make fabric stiff. Accurate measure is very important for wool processing.

5. Quality ASSESMENT: Determine by fibre diameter, by crimp, yield, colour, staple length and strength. Among this single most important to determine price and quality is wool diameter . Merino wool typically 3-5 inches in length and very fine diameter between 12 to 24 microns. Finest and more valuable – Merino hoggets Wool taken from sheep produced for meat has fibre 1.5 to 6 inches in length .

6. Grading: Based on diameter merino wool is graded as < 15.5 microns Ultra fine 15.6 to 18.5 microns Super fine 18.6 to 20 microns Fine 20.1 to 23 microns median > 23 microns strong Fine cross breed 27 To 31 microns Median cross breed 32 to 35 microns Coarse cross breed >36 microns Carpet wool 35 to 45 microns Any wool finer than 25 microns can be used as garments , while course grade are used for outer wear, rugs, blankets.

7. Image analysis: In India projection microscope well established technique for wool diameter and medullation measurements Disadvantages: Laborious and time consuming Results vary from person to person because reading of fibre on millimeter scale is cumbersome and require skills . Not reproducible because of manual paper work and nonavailalability of soft computing

8. Computerized projection microscope with image analysis: Software, basic principle is same but operation is user friendly, quick and require less human skills. Advantages: Facilitate accurate measurement and helped to store fibre images.

9. Based on Medullation -three categories 1.Hetero- irregular scale pattern . 2.Hairy- mosaic scale pattern and complete absence of crimp. 3.Kemp fibre - chalky white in colour and tapering towards the tip. And are very thin walls and that collapse to flat ribbon[Baxter 2001]

10. shearing It is removal of wool from sheep Done during warm climate In India – hand shear Done twice in year. 1.february/march 2.september/ october

11. Methods of shearing 1.Hand shearing 2.Machine shearing 3.Chemical shearing

12. Hand shearing Common method under indian condition. Done by using hand shears. Experienced shepheard can shear 40-50 sheep's/day . single sheep in less than 10 min . Advantages Cheaper, suits small flock. Fleece can be graded on basis of individual cuts. Disadvantages Time consuming Fleece cannot cut evenly. Stress to animal and shearer. Less efficient method. Staple length reduced.

13. Chemical shearing cyclophosphamide@24mg/kg orally After 12 days wool starts falling in patches and completes in 3 days . Disadvantages Should confined to shed till shedding is completed Drug effects growth and development of foetus. Residues effect meat Environmental stress due to close removal to skin.

14. Machine shearing Done by power operated shearers. Electric or diesel operated Suited for large flocks Advantages Less time Cut very close to body Smooth easy and economical. Faster – 100 sheep/day Leaves no wool on sheep Disadvantages Little negligence leads to more cuts and wounds .

15. Structure of wool Wool is protein fibre (major protein is keratin ) All proteins contain several amino acid chain by carbonyl and amide bonds the name keratin is due to specific cystine ( identified by thiol group ) amino acid in these chains. During the interaction with the atmosphere the thiol groups get oxidized and their hydrogen atoms in two adjacent thiol groups are converted into water. Has a result the disulphid bonds are produced giving the name keratin to the protein. The cells are cemented by a membrane called cell membrane complex. This membrane is made up of non keratinous proteins . These are also present in nails, horns,beak etc, in animals. The stucture can be divided into two parts with morphological structure and macro molecular structure.

16. Morphological structure Wool fibre ( two layers) epicuticle 1.cuticle exocuticle (Responsible surface properties ) endocuticle 2.Cortex thin membrane of 3 microns , hydrophobic nature Thin keratinous protein ) 0.3 microns acconts 60% Cemented to exocuticle 0.2microns 40% of whole cuticle It accounts 80% 0f total mass of fibre , influences mechanical properties of fibre .

17. Characteristics of wool Physical properties : length, diameter, purity, colour, bulk, and strength etc ( imp for determine the yarn and fabric qualities ) Gross dimensional properties: Fibre fitness: determine by fibre diameter ( influences around 80% of the product performance based on spinnability and quality of end product). Avg diameter : merino - 16 to 24 microns course type - 40 microns indian wool - 22 to 60 microns .

18. Fibre length: which governs the wool quality , it is quite critical for processing the wool. Fibre length+ Fibre diameter = influences the spinning limit of wool. Fibre length – varies from 55 to 200mm Fibre crimp: waviness [morphological arrangment of ortho and para cortex cell ] and certain amount of twist of fibre ( give bulkyness and warm)

19. Fine merino wool fibre – 20 to 30 crimps /inch With typical wavelength 2 microns . coarse wool Indian wool has very poor crimp and < 2 crimps / cm Circularity factor: shape of wool fibre cross section varies from a circle to oval shape varying in ellipticity and perfection of shape. The ellipticity factor is around 1.22 but in finer wools it is less

20. Hygroscopic nature of wool: wool is high hygroscopic in nature and it can absorb 30% of moisture of its wt with out feeling wet. Moisture regain of merino wool at RH 63.3 % at 13.97% Indian wools absorb less moisture . Bulk: Measurement of bulk may indicate lustre. Fibre bulk is inversely correlated with lustre Heat of wetting : wool is renowned for its ability to give off a small steady amount of heat while absorbing moisture. some other propertioes like Medullation , Staple length, vegetable matter etc

21. Mechanical properties 1.Stess strain properties keratinous fibres (when strenched elongation along length with simultaneous reduction in thickness) 2. strength ( tensile strenth of wool) 3. Elasticity (ability of wool fibre recovery from stretched) 4.stress relaxation Some properties like compressibility, torsional properties, resilience, frictional properties.

22. Wool marketing channel FARMERS VILLAGE LEVEL MIDDLE MEN COMMISION AGENTS YARN MANUFACTURERS TEXTILE DEALERS WHOLESALERS RETAILERS CONSUMERS

23. World scenario( N.P.Gupta , R.K Arora )CSWRI WORLD WOOL PRODUCTION The world wool production on clean basis indicates declining trend. Production has declined to 1264 mkg in year 2003-2004 from peak of 2010 mkg in 1989-90 . Production sharply declined in Australia, Newzealand and other countries except china, Russia and India

24. World productivity World wool productivity per sheep per year on gresy basis Productivity of greasy wool per sheep per year in India has remain almost constant Australia - 5.5 kg New zealand - 6 kg China - 2.2 kg India - 0.8 kg

25. Sheep fine wool Goat mohair Rabbit angora Goat cashmere Alpaca

26. World productivity per animal per year

27. Indian scenario production: annual wool production of country has increased to 55 mkg greasy for the year 2005-06 from 22 mkg in 1950.production increased due to increase in sheep population. Indian wools are carpet wool grade

28. Conclusion and recommendations : Country as adequate infrastructure of wool based textile industry and enormous scope for boasting production and export of carpet, mass employment generation. Demand of wool for consumption and industry processing. To meet demand it is necessary to put thrust for wool productivity maximization with quality improvement. Stress should be to increase the fiber production per animal rather than increase in number of animals .

29. WOOL versus HAIR

30. Difference between Wool and Hair parameter WOOL HAIR Medulla Almost absent Present and pronounced cuticle iiregular Regular and smooth sides Scaly projections smooth diameter Less more Growth Continous if not sheared but not shed Reaches maximum and then shed Softness More Less Elasticity More Less Heat retention More Less Moisture retention More(12 to 17%) Less(7 to 12) Dye retention permanent temporary Luster More Less Inflammability Less( transmit uv light) more Transparency Semi transparent Semi opaque Produced from Secondary follicle Primary follicle

31. Wool fibres are usually much smaller in diameter, the epidermal cells of hair are fastened to the cortex through out their length. Hair is always medullated . Hair never crimped like fine wool although some is wavy like the coarser wools. Both hair and wool may have pigment with in the cortex, but most wool is free of pigment Wool fibers grow much denser on the skin than hair grows. In every dense fleece fine wool sheep there may be more than 50,000 fibres per square inch of skin area.

32. The total greasy wool contains In the coarser, loose, fleeced sheep the number may not exceed 5000 per square inch .

33. 3 types of fibres that is Wool ,hair, and kemp The wool fibres are realatively fine and 15 to 50 microns in the diameter Kemp fibres are very coarse ( 100 to 200 microns ), brittle, tapered, heavily medullated and short because their limited growth. Hairy or hetero type fibres have a network of hollow , air filled cell walls ( medulla ).

34. The finest and densest wool fibers are found on the shoulders , about mid way between the top of the shoulders and floor of the chest. The coarsest wool is about breech and dock , the shortest wool is usually on the belly .

35. Wool breeds Exotic fine wool breeds Merino Rambouillet Leceister long wool sheep Lincoln Dorper American black bellied Jacob

36. Indian carpet wool breeds AVIKALIN ( rambouillet X malpura ) Malpura Chokla Indian crossbreed fine wool breed Bharath merino ( ewes of chokla , nali,malpura and jaisalmera X rambouillet and or russian merino with 75% exotic inheritance) Avivastra ( chokla ewe X rambouillet ram)

37. Superior carpet wool breeds: Chokla Nali Magra Jaisalmar Pugal Patanwadi

38. Muskoxen ALPACA

39. Hair or wool obtained from the angora rabbits are known as ANGORA or NOBLE FIBRES Angora is preferred over cashmere, mohair wool and alpaca because of its fineness, Odorless, warm, fluffiness, and antistatic property to propel the dirt. ANGORA WOOL OF RABBIT

40. Angora is being about 8 times warmer than sheep wool whether in pure form or blended form for making fine garments across the world. All hairs have a hollow structure – medulla characterized by tiny air chambers , which makes them lighter ( low specific weight) than wool and increase their insulating properties. Clean , pure and soft angora with mean fiber diameter of about 13 microns. staple length > 6 cm .

41. Angora wool the main product fetching 55 to 70 % of the return from each animal. The value of angora per unit of weight is 40 to 50 times higher to that of greasy wool of sheep. 1kg angora could be produced by 30 % less digestible energy as compared to 1 kg sheep wool. Angora has been found to posses medicinal properties and it garments because of electro static properties are recommended for arthritis .

42. Pashmina fibre It is possibly best in the world with Fiber length 4.95 to 6 cm with average fiber diameter is 12 micrometers.

43. Indian wool evaluation Results indicated that the fibre diameter of native wool was improved as an fine wool with 20-25 microns with below 5% medullation through cross breeding with exotic fine wool sheep.

44. Circularity factor : cross section of Indian and cross breed wools was measured by using Formulae: C = 4 ╥ A/p 2 where A= area of cross section P=perimeter of cross section

45. Analysis of wool properties obtained from different Indian sheep breeds

46. ASSESSMENT OF MANGRA AND BIKANERI CHOKLA WOOL FOR CARPET MANUFACTURING Magra is one of important carpet sheep breed of western rajasthan . The wool of magra and bikaneri chokla sheep as similar qualities. However bikneri chokla wool is more preferred by carpet manufacturers compared to magra due to its lustre . As per breed classification scientifically, wool obtained from both sheep is known as magra wool. To establish difference an attempt was made to analyze.

47. Result and discussion The average fibre diameter and medullation were higher in bikaneri chokla wool as compared to magra . The hairy fibres were twice that of hetero fibres and total medullated fibres were 55% for bikaneri chokla wool whereas, hetero type medullated fibres were more in magra wool than hairy type with total medullation of 43%. Medullated fibre proportions were at desired level in magra wool

48. The scale frequency was higher in bikaneri chokla compare to magra wool. However , bikaneri chokla wool showed more uniform and peculiar diamond shape of scale structure with larger scale size, which may be attributed to higher lustre in bikaneri chokla as compared to magra wool.

49. SUBMITTED BY: B.SUNIL KUMAR TVM/2015-024 Thank u